A little project update on Chug A Lug

YAHOO the air system works. As does the Air Horn the automatic shut off every thing. I need to tape up one joint (the main line from the compressor to the first manifold on the firewall).

So thats cool. Well except for the first test of the air horn at 90psi appears to have woke the wife up from her nap LOL. Good thing she was awake when the thing got to full pressure at 145PSI. CAUSE IT WAS DAMN LOUD. I still need to wire in a small electric pancake style horn so if I do not have the tanks pumped up I still have a horn.

And I have the Ground side of the battery cables and the last of the Grounding wires and cables to the electrical system connected.

I hope the ground cable running to the Master Disconnect switch isn't to long! You can see the 12ga ground cable coming from the Radio console directly to the Battery Post. Down on the hard to see Buss Bar are two 10ga wires grounding Headlights and Fog lights as well as the rest of the lighting in the Grill. Then there are two 6ga cables one running to the Grounding  Terminal on the Frame between the Air compressors Rely and the Battery. And the second one runs to the 50amp Anderson plug in the rear of the Jeep to provide a Ground for the Rear lights and the connection to my Trailer when I build it.

This shot shows the Master disconnect switch mounted in a temp panel (way easier to wire this up without the fender mounted and the switch mounts into the Fender) I still have two #1 cables to solder Anderson Plug ends on to and figure out how to stuff through the inner fender to reach the receptical  mounted to the outside of the inner fender. Going to have some help with this just to many things to try to wrestle at once.

All connections made to the Battery are either Copper or Brass. When I get to the point I am running CHUG around I will most likely spray a protective coating on all the connections.

Next up is the Oil pump clocking then I think I will tackle the Distributors. I have a Pair of IAT-4405 Vacuum advance distributors I plan on setting one up conventionally with the best points and condenser I can find (looking at what Accel offers) and the other will be a Petronix unit. I really wish I could figure out how to adapt an Adjustable 68 Mustang 200 L6 Vacuum advance to them but that bit of creativity will have to be down the road some time.

The plan is to run on the Petronix unit and carry the Points unit Vacuum packed and in a PVC tube as an emergency back up.

Now to keep my damn finger off the starter button until its ready to start. Don't want to rub off all that assembly lube until its time.

I was bored at work today so I made a list.

Safety upgrades

Headlights... Hella H4 65wt HD wiring & relays  Tail lights added 2nd light w/brighter bulbs Turn signals added
Brake lights Brighter Bulbs mechanical switch
4way Flashers added
4corner clearance lights LED that also 4way
Backup lights added 18watt LEDs dual switch
Fog lights

Brakes upgraded to Dual Master Cyl. 11 x 2" drums, braided lines. Residual pressure valves. Trimmer rubber padded pedal on bushed shaft.

Steering upgraded to Saginaw 525 manual box single Tierod/Drag link cross braced to right frame. Modern Ididit column w/Brogenson U jounts 3/4" DD shaft. Collapsible geometry

Tires upgraded to modern Radial design Mud and Snow rated Radials with excellent wet traction. 235/75R-15

Horn upgraded to 130dB Airhorn w/,130dB electric backup.

Mirrors dual 5" round on custom mounts right side Conical. Interior rear view mirror.

Defroster full lenght added

Wipers upgraded to 2spd. intermittent electric

Windshield Glass upgraded to modern laminated safety glass.

Suspension upgraded shackles and shackle mounts, improved U bolt plates and shock mounts.

Frame now CJ5 boxed Ft. & Rr. Tubular Rear crossmember HD front bumper mounts.

Tub has been upgraded to include tubular frame under floor, riser, along sides, steps
& rear valance. Additional tubular rock sliders for side protection. Rear Wheelhouse corners reinforced w/1/4" plate tied to rollbar.

ROLLBAR NHRA spec tubing full cover mounting plates grade 10.9 metric bolts.

Shoulder belts in front Lap belts in rear.

Fire extinguishers a pair of QD mounted 1A 10BC 2.5lb.

CB radio 7' antenna Garmin inReach satellite comm device.

Electrical system upgraded to 105amp Alt. Series 31 950CCA battery fully fused harness.

Think I've done a pretty good job of upgrading CHUGs safety for what I intend to do with it.

WOW I picked up two nice small Hella 111Db electric horns as back up to the 130Db Air horn I have. And I swear I can't find a place to mount them I am happy with. I really wanted them mounted in the grill somewhere but once I start working on that idea I keep running into problems. Maybe I'll have to run the wires and just mount them on the Inner fender once I get it in place. I wanted to keep them out of the way but all the good spots already have something else in the way.

I so want this done.

OK fine OCD slightly adjusted. Here is where I ended up sticking them.

I still need to find some place for the Electric fan controller which I had hoped to put on the Battery hold down below where these horns are. As I now have an estimated date of Who knows when November I guess I deal with that later.

I also gooped up the last air fitting on my air system and tightened it down. It only takes a couple min to fill the system up to 145PSI. it shuts off automatically and then comes back on at 105PSI I do have a very slow leak or leaks as it took about 30 min to go from 145 to 105PSI I'll look into that some other time.

In the above photo you can kind of see the High Temp Dense foam I used to seal around the Radiator. Pretty happy with the way that came out. I need to put a couple more washers under the right side Radiator mounting studs as its leaning a little. Not sure if the Grill is off or the Radiator but the Grill is mostly bolted down so its easiest to just ad an 1/8" under the right side.

 

I used CJ7 stuff from (maybe) Quadratec...they are nice, with two fixed eyelet ends.

 

Just fab a simple right angle bracket and attach it wherever it takes to suit your levelness issues.

 

(cant get to my pics right now)

 

 

 

 

It's enough to not chip the paint and reduce rattle.

Interesting how those just popped up all over the place.  Read stories suggesting all kinds of possible reasons for them - land management issues, weather, death ray, vandalism, lightning or something else.

So today I got back to putting the glass in the windshield frame and all I can say is using 3M bedding compound was a HUGE mistake, I won't go into details as this is a family forum and I would have to use a bunch of my bad words to explain what a PITA this ended up being. Not to mention the hour + to clean up the bedding compound on all the paint etc.

The one bright spot was that once I got the thing in the gasket putting the locking bead in with the tool I bought was easy. I got two (due to an Amazon screw up with shipping) of these bead installers and have offered the second one as a loaner to the group.

I am now working on getting the rest of the stuff on the windshield frame installed. And of course with packing everything up to bug out (due to forest fires I can"t find all the little nuts and bolts. So another trip to the hardware store.

I did the window with the Bead on the inside I like the smooth exterior look.