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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Sep. 2020 at 3:05am
We have a couple of good climbing shops in the area I will check them out thanks for the tip.

Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct. 2020 at 1:26am
WOW so i been fighting this Cowl seal thing and I gave up. The last of the three I have bought almost identical as the first one. I put in a big pot in the sink and ran sink hot water into the pot then added about a quart of boiling water to heat the rubber up and soften it some. I then stretched it and fought it so that all the screws are in place and its kind of how it should be.

I have now moved on to the Wiper motor which is mounted above the windshield on the pass side. Which is frustration the heck out of me. I had all this fabbed up back before paint. Now I find screw holes not threaded and others that are almost impossible to get the screws started. And to make matters more fun about 1/2 of this ends up with grease smeared all over it (its a single push pull cable driven system) I can't figure out how to plug in the electrical once the thing is encased in the cover I made so I guess I have to make a short pig tail so that I have an electrical connector inside the defroster duct (where the power cable for the motor runs so its out of sight only 6 wires)

Having to deal with the new windshield gasket being thicker then the original so I had to lift the whole mess 1/16th off the frame and turn about the same off of the drive wheel so it doesn't rub on the rubber gasket.

Frustrating.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct. 2020 at 4:54pm
Must be a good weekend for Jeep work this will be my 3rd trip to ACE hardware and NAPA this time for 16ga wire and some 3/4" black heat shrink. Always something.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct. 2020 at 11:28pm
So I think I have the sweep and arm angles figured out on the wipers looks like 120° sweep with the blades laying parallel to the bottom edge of the glass about 3/4" above the gasket for the lower blade (when parked) and about 1.125" for the upper parked blade with only about an inch and a half over lap. Decent sized peak in the middle but not much more then the rear view mirror covers anyway. Looks like I will have to shorten the blades about 1.25" on the upper side to get the best coverage. My arms are adjustable for both length and the angle the blade mounts to it. The arms are a Satin finish metal and I will end up painting them flat black. I wish I could find a better blade then the thin little squeegee style but then I doubt I could cut them off set like I need.



All in all I'm pretty happy, they should be just the thing for all the rain we get here. Just hoping the motor doesn't make a bunch of noise etc. only time will tell.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Oct. 2020 at 12:03am
WOW Windshield in place. No way to compress cowl seal enough to get latches started. I have everything as loose as possible. Guess I will try getting in and pulling back on the frame while someone else trys to connect the latch. I see now why a number of comments on this Seal said it was to thick.

More progress on the Wiper system, Looks like I either snip my 11" blades down an inch on either end or I buy some 9" blades. Still might end up trimming a 1/4" from the top side to gain clearance. Still looks like a 120° sweep is going to be the ticket.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LuzonRed47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2020 at 1:08am
When can we expect to see Chug out in the daylight? You must be getting close, Mark.
CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie" (purchased new by my dad in 1947)
ACM #124334
CJ3A windshield, Warn Overdrive
1953 Strick M100 trailer
Serial #18253
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2020 at 1:15am
I'm less then a month from Winter layoff and after a week or so of cleaning up and organizing my office and shop and I'll be at Chug full time. Could be a New Years day event.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov. 2020 at 11:49pm
Finally some interesting progress to show off. After much head banging and cussing I bring you
                                           The Defroster and Stuff.


First an overall photo


The Duct itself is a piece of .065 wall 2" aluminum angle riveted to a Half round section of 2" aluminum pipe. This the has maybe a few to many holes drilled into to for the air to exit. The ends of the duct are closed off with pieces of Neoprene foam and then the shaped Neoprene blocks to finish off either end.

The supply duct comes through the dash behind the steering column in the weird shaped open space left from the Column shift past All 2A dashes have. I detailed how these two little pieces were made quite a while back. This then transitions to 2" aluminum flex duct and to the air control box under my Summit Racing Heater. The std heater controls Fan Defrost and Temp all seam to be working as they should. Course I got to make some Hot water to be sure LOL.


A left side view of the Duct reaching up to the Defroster box. this also shows the Wiper motor power cable which was originally going to run down into the dash inside the Duct work. BUT when I found out I needed to add two more wires to the harness I did not have a way to open up the hole I had made some something else had to be done. This Green and Black cable with Molex Connectors was what I settled on.  And yes the Defroster box is a big PITA to remove and replace but its something that with repetition will get easier. Not that I hope to do it very often.


Also inside the Deforster box is the cable driven fancy two spd intermittent wipers. The motor is up above the Pass side of the windshield.

The right side of the Supply Duct. You can best see the joint between the Supply Duct and the Box in this view. Its just a pressure fit with the rubber edge trim. This is where the two pieces separate if I fold the Windshield down. I do not plan on doing that but super rarely. This Jeep will have a full aluminum hard top on it virtually all the time. As I plan on having stuff worth stealing in it.


In the process of getting all this stuff in place I noticed that the fancy combo cigg lighter power port and external dash light I have hides the speedo between about 45mph and 50mph LOL Guess I have to drive 60mph.

I also mounted up the Vintage Hull Auto Compass I got off eBay a while back. It has the provisions to be internally lighted but unless I find some real need I'm not going to screw with more wires to the defroster box. Super simple mounting bracket just a 1/2" wide piece of .065" aluminum with a hole on both ends and it attaches nice and solid to the center defroster box screw.

Next  to it slightly off center (like thats going to matter) it the little Tilt O Meter unit I got. Mostly to scare passengers.

Some where on the right side of the compass I will create a mount for the wifes Tablet that we will use for digital maps and silly stuff like that when out on adventures. I'll most likely come up with a mount for my Phone to the left of the Tilt O Meter.

close up of the fun stuff in the middle.


Lots of new places to touch up paint. I'm going to start a list of places to touch up so that once I get done tearing up the new paint putting things together I can sit down at one time and touch up all the black then all the Blue.  
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LuzonRed47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov. 2020 at 12:13am
Impressive work, Mark, particularly the high level of detail.
CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie" (purchased new by my dad in 1947)
ACM #124334
CJ3A windshield, Warn Overdrive
1953 Strick M100 trailer
Serial #18253
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov. 2020 at 6:52pm
WOW after fighting for days to get the defroster duct and the wiper motor connected today I am trying to get the correct sweep and park set for my fancy wiper system and I use the steering wheel to help readjust my position in the drivers seat and the FRECKING HORN HONKS!!!! I do some test pulls and pushes and it turns out if I lift up on the lower right about 4-6 O'clock on the wheel the horn will honk! But only if the wheel is in the position it would be if going straight ahead.


I have a std. Grant type horn button setup. Its all spaced correctly and when this happens I don't see any sparks from the contact plate like when I push the button. So the only thing I can think of its somehow grounding inside the column where the contact button and the brass contact tube meet. How it is happening I have no clue.

What a PITA.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov. 2020 at 11:23pm
That "Hull Auto Compass" brings back a memory. My dad installed one exactly like it on our 1959 Ford Station wagon when I was a kid. That wagon was red and white with enough chrome to blind you, it looked like a starship. It was a wonderful car back then, and ugly enough to be attractive. 

He put a compass on every car he had up until the 80s. I never understood exactly why since he never left the paved roads and always had a road atlas on board. I think he just liked the look, and idea of them. 

I'll say you sure do some incredible work, true craftsmanship. That defroster set up is the neatest job I have ever seen done on one of these Jeeps. You could easily sell such an accessory should you ever decide to go that route.
If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov. 2020 at 7:38pm
OK so now in my second day of trying to figure out how in the world this horn is honking when I push down on the steering wheel at 4:00 to 5:00 or lift up on it 10:00 to 11:00.

Its a dead simple setup there is a brass tube insulted from the Steering shaft by a pair of Delrin plastic collars. With a wire attached to it passing up to the horn button setup. A std. Grant Steering Wheel Horn button Kit.

There is then a Plunger attached to the ground lead coming from the horns that rides on the brass tube.

With the wire coming from the Brass Tube not attached to ANYTHING NO HORN BUTTON Mechanizeum at all if I push or lift on the wheel that dam horn goes off.

I have checked the Steering column for any protrusions there are none. I have made sure the plunger is sitting properly on the Brass tube. I have wrapped electrical tape around the steering shaft under the brass tube. I have inspected the wire multiple times. I have checked continuity with my VOM There is none between the brass and the Shaft.

I'm waiting for Ididits tech guys to get off lunch so I can get some expert help working out how this evil magic is happening.


OK 15min long conversation with the Tech guy at Ididit helped 0 he walked me through all the tests I had already done. As well as a few that couldn't possibly have anything to do with the problem and he's stumped they had never run into this problem like this before.

So lunch time and back to trying to figure it out on my own. If this fails I know this gal who claims to be a Witch I'll get her over here to burn some sage or something to ward off the evil electrons capable of floating through the air and doing something a 60,000 volt coil couldn't do. Throw a spark a 1/4"
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov. 2020 at 9:27pm
GOOD GRIEF.

The little plunger unit in this horn kit uses a Key hole shaped hole in the outer tube to allow it to fit through the tube then slide into a locking position. When I drilled the hole and cut the slot I screwed up and cut it upside down. So I made a little aluminum disc to fit the hole that would lock the plunger unit in place. And of course cause I am anal to absurd limits I drilled a hole and threaded it to run a small brass screw into the column tube so the head overlapped the little aluminum disc. That F'ing screw was the problem. When I was looking down the Tube trying to find any obstructions it couldn't be seen behind the plunger. When I finally got to the point in trying to figure this out the only thing left was to pull the damn Plunger and see if it could somehow be grounding out. I removed the screw and sure as sh*t it was sticking down far enough to be almost touching the brass tube. When I pushed down on the wheel it caused the steering shaft to flex just that last tiny bit so the screw made contact and grounded out the horn BEEP BEEP.

I replaced the screw and aluminum disc with a Hose clamp run up against the side of the plunger and now can not get the horn to HONK unless I ground the wire as it should be.

I need a drink.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov. 2020 at 10:20pm
Dang it now the Volt gauge isn't working.

Changed the Wiper sweep to 130 degrees and it seams to be working pretty good. I need to finish boxing up the motor as part of the outer box holds the little connecting rod together. Not real keen about Aluminum riding on Aluminum so I might add a zert so I can refresh the High Temp Moly grease I am using every so often without having to pull it all apart.

I'm so tired of electrical crap. And I still have to figure out how to run a wire to the Right Side Junction box and another to supply power for my trailer brake controller when I get it. As well as power to the ceiling in the Hard top as I am pretty sure thats where the GMRS radio will mount.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov. 2020 at 6:18pm
So I moved abunch of stuff and crawled up under the dash and can now see that the Voltmeter at least on the Gauge end is connected up properly. I can also see the ground side is connected to the Ground Buss bar I am using for the Dash Lights so that must be working. Now to figure out how on earth to get to the Power side of the thing which my charts say is connected to terminal #4 on the Molex connector that should then be connected to a BAT terminal on the back of the Fuse box. Which of course is buried behind 20 miles of wire leading to the Steering column stuff the rest of the Fuse box and the 9 switches on the left side of the column.

I might just go the Bubba route and connect it to the ACC terminal on the Ignition switch. this might be my only option without a huge amount of tear down. I can with little frustration get the Ignition Switch out of the Dash and I can cut the positive lead going to the gauge. A simple splice and I will have enough wire to reach the ignition switch. I'll just have to tap off the loose end.

Of course there is also the chance the DAM gauge itself is not working. In which case this will become a bigger PITA as I try to get it out of the Dash. Going to have to remove the Oil Temp Gauge and maybe the Water Temp to be able to reach the hold down clamp. I guess I know what I'll be doing the rest of today.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chasendeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov. 2020 at 6:30pm
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

So I moved abunch of stuff and crawled up under the dash and can now see that the Voltmeter at least on the Gauge end is connected up properly. I can also see the ground side is connected to the Ground Buss bar I am using for the Dash Lights so that must be working. Now to figure out how on earth to get to the Power side of the thing which my charts say is connected to terminal #4 on the Molex connector that should then be connected to a BAT terminal on the back of the Fuse box. Which of course is buried behind 20 miles of wire leading to the Steering column stuff the rest of the Fuse box and the 9 switches on the left side of the column.

I might just go the Bubba route and connect it to the ACC terminal on the Ignition switch. this might be my only option without a huge amount of tear down. I can with little frustration get the Ignition Switch out of the Dash and I can cut the positive lead going to the gauge. A simple splice and I will have enough wire to reach the ignition switch. I'll just have to tap off the loose end.

Of course there is also the chance the DAM gauge itself is not working. In which case this will become a bigger PITA as I try to get it out of the Dash. Going to have to remove the Oil Temp Gauge and maybe the Water Temp to be able to reach the hold down clamp. I guess I know what I'll be doing the rest of today.



Voltage will be constant in your system. You run a jumper from your dash light to the + side of gauge to check and see if it works first?
Jay

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov. 2020 at 7:04pm
Holy Batman. OK so the stupid Voltmeter works I then cut the positive lead to it and reconnected it to the Acc. side of the ignition switch now when I turn the Key on either way the Voltmeter pops right up to where it should be. Course now my body feels like I been a couple rounds with a guy known for his body jabs. And I am quite sure by tonight my neck will be all messed up.

Now I can get back to the Silly Wipers.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov. 2020 at 8:15pm
Well I got the Wiper system figured out after it blew itself apart during a test yesterday. I had to make a better clamping system for the Aluminum tube the cable runs in. It popped out of its holder in the Motor and the tube got bent and the flare on the end which acts like a stop got damaged so I cut about and 1/8" off and made a new flare and then made a sandwich style clamp to totally lock the tube in place. A Bunch more grease and the cable went back in pretty easy. But now I see it was being dragged as it moved and when I thought it needed to change to 130° of arc that is now to much so again I have to pull it almost all apart and reset it to 120°. Should be the last time.

I cashed out my 2weeks Vacation and Paid time off and after putting like $1800.00 of it into the 401K I have another $1000 to get me through projects this winter. I went ahead and Ordered the last two Wheels I need for my Trailer build which while I won't start that until next winter. The Wheels keep going up in price so I figured time to jump. Exact same wheels as CHUGs so I can swap them all around.

Bout time to stop working on CHUG and spend my two weeks cleaning the shop and my office. Both are a mess.

When I get back to CHUG it will be on to finishing up the Header and assembling the steering.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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