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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec. 2014 at 1:40am
WOW talked to the Machinist today and he said the block came through the tank and magnifluxing really well just a couple of tiny cracks from a head stud hole to the water jacket in a place that its not worth worrying about no need to be welded. The head he said was beautiful.
 
He also said he thought the block would clean up at .060" over and we wouldn't have to go out to .080" (I'm still holding my breath).
 
Heading up there tomorrow morning to drop off the crank and rods. Also taking my NOS cam for him to mic. Just in case somethings different when it comes to the cam bearings.
 
 
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec. 2014 at 10:02am
I'd want him to have the pistons in hand before the final honing if it was me.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec. 2014 at 10:25am
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

WOW talked to the Machinist today and he said the block came through the tank and magnifluxing really well just a couple of tiny cracks from a head stud hole to the water jacket in a place that its not worth worrying about no need to be welded. The head he said was beautiful.
 
He also said he thought the block would clean up at .060" over and we wouldn't have to go out to .080" (I'm still holding my breath).
 
Heading up there tomorrow morning to drop off the crank and rods. Also taking my NOS cam for him to mic. Just in case somethings different when it comes to the cam bearings.
 
 

Mark,
You seem pretty experienced, and I'm not, so I sometimes hesitate to throw in any "advice," but I will toss in my experience with trying to punch a block out to .80 over.  The sidewall was so thin that it caved in on me. i almost cried when the machinist showed me the results.


Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec. 2014 at 11:12am
As I have said before. This block has been punched to .040 already. It has some rust damage from sitting for 35 years with the head off (or at least loose) There for it has to be bored over again. There is NO OPTION. If it cleans up at .060" over then YIPPIE HAPPY HAPPY. The machinist thinks that will happen now that the block has been tanked and thoroughly checked. If it can't then the ONLY OPTIONS are to try .080" over or to go even farther so that a sleeve or sleeves can be fit.
 
As to having the pistons in hand prior to final honing I totally agree. And will get pistons ordered tonight.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec. 2014 at 12:46pm
I would wait on the order until I was sure that 0.060 will clean it up. If your shop is any good at all, the "final hone" will be done with the pistons in hand. If you order 0.060 pistons & have to bore out to 0.080, or even if you have to sleeve it & then bore to your desired 0.080, (per your first post), now you are stuck with 0.060 pistons that will not fit your engine. I have been there & done that. I was able to resell, at a loss, my oversize pistons to a fellow rodder.

IHTH, Cpt Logger.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec. 2014 at 11:13pm
Its all a moot point now. I got the call from the machinist. He punched the bores (minus final surface honing) to .060" and told me to order up some Pistons. SO I have a set of .060" overs w/rings coming from G503 (check their piston price its quite good) Also have Valve Guides and Valves coming so he can do the hard seats, valve grind, and deck the block.
 
The best part is we talked money and it looks like due to how I did all the disassembly and will reassemble the engine (except for the cam bearing, Valve guides and Piston Pins) its going to save me a small fortune compared to what the first machinist was going to charge me.
 
I can live without the extra cubic inch of displacement and the .1 (maybe) of compression ratio increase for being able to clean up the mess I thought I had looking at them bores.
 
Maybe I can find a Paxton super charger to make up for it LOL.
 
I've also seen a Photo of the 9.25" flywheel I'm buying from a gent on another jeep forum and it looks great. I'll have the local machinist put a fresh surface on it and it should be already to go.
 
Happy Willys owner tonight
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berettajeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec. 2014 at 11:33pm
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:


Maybe I can find a Paxton super charger to make up for it LOL.
 



 Yes! LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec. 2014 at 8:36pm
SO today was interesting. Made a runback to the Machinist to deliver Pistons, Valves and Valve guides. I also took the opportunity to CC the combustion chambers. My head is as measured very thick at 2.145-2.148" measured gasket surface to the top of the four corner head nut bosses.
The Kaiser Supersonic head measures at 2.109 to 2.110 from all reports. The combustion chambers have the same shape. So basically a Kaiser Supersonic head is a shaved Willys 134L head.
 
I got 88-89 CC's as close as we could tell. And it was decided to take just .035" off the head. By eyeball estimation this should get me close to a 80-81 CC combustion chamber.
 
Once cut I will re CC the head and find out exactly where we are. But I figure since the Bores came out a little better then I thought they would (only needing .060" over) I would leave a little meat on the head as well.
 
There was a head that we measured the thickness (head nut boss to gasket surface) and it was cut past what mine will be and it came off a running engine. SO I not worried.
 
The other thing that happened was I got a Call from the Upholster and my seats were ready to be picked up. Since it is supposed to rain like crazy here tomorrow I ran up there tonight. And got them
 
In a nut shell THEY POP the orange piping with the Black Nagahyde really looks good. I have a couple places to touch up the paint on the frames (I expected that) But I am really happy with the end results. I'll post photos tomorrow into this post.
 
Here they are I need to touch up the paint some and I will adjust the covers a little but I'm happy.
 
 
 
 


Edited by Mark W. - 20 Dec. 2014 at 5:50pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berettajeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec. 2014 at 1:16am
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

Since it is supposed to rain like crazy here tomorrow....


 Can't wait. ConfusedLOL

Looking forward to those photos!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec. 2014 at 3:47pm
OK a little up date. I now have all the parts for my Rear 11" brakes with E-Brake. Except the drums. I have a pair of drums that might be able to be cleaned up. But I'm going to go with New. And won't buy them until I start to assemble the rear axle. Going to hold off on all lines until I have the Axles under the chassis and the Dual Master Cylinder mounted and the linkage hooked up. I'll most likely buy the hard lines for the axles and make the front and rear frame lines when it gets to the point I am assembling the chassis.
 
I have a bunch of Clutch parts in some delivery truck somewhere headed my way. Along with about 1/2 of the next big batch of engine parts. Still quite a few of the engine parts to get. Parts are starting to add up pretty quick since I am replacing pretty much anything that can have had any wear on it.
 
I now have all the new Valve train either on hand or on the way.
 
I think the next little project (clean up and paint) will be the valve cover and oil pan. That should keep me busy for a little while.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec. 2014 at 11:54am
OK todays update.  When I bought the backing plates for my rear 11" brakes the guy I bought them from threw in a set of front brakes and a pair of pretty nasty looking drums. The Backing plates cleaned up very nicely. And I went about buying up all the parts and pieces to assemble the new rear brakes. I held off on the drums just because they would be about $98.00 for the pair and I really don't need them yet.
 
Well yesterday I was looking for something to do so I grabbed the nasty drums and ran down to NAPA to have them measure and see if they could be turned and saved.
 
Turns out they had never been cut and were only .005-.010 over size with a .090 discard. SO I brought them home and since they won't fit into my little 30 gallon garbage can sandblaster cabinet. I went after them with an Angle Grinder and a twisted wire wire wheel that was on its last legs.
 
I managed to get almost done before the wire wheel didn't have enough wire in it to do much of anything. Switched to another type of drill mounted wire wheel and got the job done.
 
SO todays photos  On the Right BEFORE on the Left AFTER clean up and Phosphate coating.
 
Next will come Black Caliper paint should contrast nicely with my Safety Blue Backing Plates
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berettajeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec. 2014 at 9:55pm
Good thing you didn't just scrap those drums!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec. 2014 at 10:15pm
Yea they looked done I could tell they weren't grooved or anything but until they were measured they sure looked like crap.
 
Hope a few more things turn out like them. CHEAP LOL
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berettajeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec. 2014 at 10:17pm
Only means more funds going to other areas. LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan. 2015 at 3:02am
Ok just a quick what I've been up to lately.
 
The Brake drums are painted (will have them turned right before installing them)
 
The oil pan (interestingly enough doesn't have a skid plate and only had one small dent) is currently in primer. It was a chore to clean up but I would eat breakfast cereal out of it now LOL. Its going to be Chassis Black tomorrow.
 
I got one of the heavy cast single groove pulleys from Ron Fitzpatrick it came with a rather heavy OD green paint on it. So I threw it in the lathe and removed the paint from the sealing surface and then polished that surface with some 600 grit paper so its nice and smooth. I then removed some of the green paint and reprimed and painted it with Chassis Black.
 
The Rear Axle (this is the 70-71 CJ5 DANA 44 30 spline Housing and Axles I bought local). Is all cleaned up inside and out. Phosphated and painted with Chassis Black Sooooo Pretty LOL I have huge (read expensive) plans for this hunk of steel. OH the Cover that came with the Housing is a pretty heavy chrome cover with a bunch of surface rust so a good working over with a fine rotary wire wheel some Phosphate and etching primer and its a matching Chassis Black now too.
 
rear axle photo and yes that is the living room floor and the wifes Christmas tree. she's been super about letting me keep the paint warm while it cures on a number of things.
 
 
Also cleaned up now is the front engine plate (waiting on gaskets to determine where I need to mask it off) The Oil Float and Support I boiled out in some Berrymans carb cleaner (man I hate that stuff and the smell that never seams to dissipate). Cam retaining plate cleaned and polished and a number of smaller parts all cleaned and ready.
 
I got my 9.25" clutch in the other day (waiting on some of the small parts that were supposed to be with it) Got a couple other big packages of parts including Oil Pump, and Timing Gears. Still waiting on the 9.25" flywheel and all the clutch linkage parts to show up. Should be here soon. I got a line on a Weber DGEV 32/36 Progressive 2bbl carb that I'll be looking at soon.
 
Big auto parts swap meet coming up soon hoping to find some of the odd ball parts I need like a Chrome cup for my 0-6000rpm tach and a 2" cup for the Vacuum gauge, Maybe a Signal Stat 900 turnsignal switch, Also going to look for any solid used Headers that can be cut up and made into the header I want to build. And Electric fan would be something else to look for.
 
All kinds of stuff going on.


Edited by Mark W. - 04 Jan. 2015 at 1:31am
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan. 2015 at 8:11pm
WOW big day today.
 
First and foremost I got a nice metal shelf unit to pile all my ready to be assembled parts on (instead of in boxes on the floor of my office) At the same time as I made room for the new shelf I did some rearranging in my shop (not where the Willys project is taking place which is the carport/Garage) and I managed to toss out like 3) 5 gallon cans of crap I didn't need and gained almost 6 sq ft of floor space. Not to mention a bunch of other stuff is now much more organized.
 
THE FLYWHEEL SHOWED UP and it is very nice. A quick run over it with a rotary wire wheel and its almost clean. Ring gear is very useable as is not even worth rotating. I'll get the back side of it painted tomorrow and Monday mid day the wife will drop it off at a local machinist to have it ground (its only going to take a few thousands I just want it all brand new like.
 
Oh and the missing (from an earlier shipment) clutch parts showed up.
 
And I got the Oil pan all painted pretty like. Chassis Black.
 
 
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan. 2015 at 10:25pm
OK I went off the path today and after finding the lost bucket of parts. I decided to restore and upgrade the armored front park lites dad had on Chug. I always liked them compared to others I saw.
 
I wanted to change them to a two element bulb so I have both front parking lights and turn signals (dad only ran turn signals in front) So off to NAPA to find new sockets. Of course the NAPA that's 14 blocks from the house only had one. So I had to run to the one 5 miles away to get the second one.
 
And when I got home I found two of them just like I bought sitting on my work bench (ya think I been inhaling to much spray paint?)
 
SO photo's obviously the first is before:
 
 
And now the pretties all cleaned painted and polished up. I used an aluminum engine paint on them since they were originally a bright zinc plated and I wasn't about to chrome them.
 
 
And of course after doing all the work and making them so pretty. While I was polishing the lense with some Novus Plastic Polish I noticed there was no way that a huge 1157 Bulb was going to fit into them little Amber Plastic lenses. I was momentarily Pissed off. So I come in and start searching the web and sure enough this is also a problem on some light used on a early ford when converting to modern lighting. AND Speedway Motors offers a two element Bulb that is just a ball shape shoved into the brass. Making it almost 1/2" shorter and short enough it has a little breathing space between it and the Plastic lenses.
 
All is happy I really wanted to use these lights as they can be seen pretty well from the side and I like that little bit of safety.
 
Going to add a side lens to the new rear lights I bought (originals just weren't worth the effort) The left Light has a license plate clear lens on the bottom. I'm just going to rotate the cup 90 degrees so that lens faces out and cover it with a Red Gelatin on the inside. Should work well as a side marker light without adding anything to the Willys. I'm planning on using the little license plate bolt/lights to illuminate my rear plate.


Edited by Mark W. - 04 Jan. 2015 at 1:34am
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan. 2015 at 10:41pm
And here I thought you were going LED.
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