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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan. 2015 at 1:29am
Nah not much into LED's and I doubt one of them would fit the lens anyway.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan. 2015 at 2:37pm
SO I got the flywheel backside painted and Monday the wife dropped it off at the local machine shop. He ground just a few thousands off it to make a perfectly clean new surface for my new clutch. I picked it up Tuesday morning.
 
Tuesday morning I sorted through a pile of Jeep parts I got a few years back from a poor guy who's cheating wife had managed to sell the house out from under him and he had a couple weeks to move out. So he offered anyone with a pickup to come load up jeep parts. I been tripping over stuff for 5+ years.
 
I made three piles 1. total junk 2. stuff I will keep to sell on eBay or the forums 3. Stuff my jeep guy who's doing my transmission and handling the machine work on my engine could possibly use. I'm trading the stuff to him for labor doing my Transfer case and Tranny work.
 
So Tuesday morning I loaded the trade goods and the Flywheel, Pressure Plate and Crank pulley up and headed North. The machinist needs the parts to spin balance my engine. Turns out my jeep guy was all to happy to take the stuff I brought him and the results are my tranny transfer case will just cost Parts. He's also going to swap my 1 1/8" shaft transfer case for the later 1 1/4" shaft version with the better bearings. SO good for me.
 
So now my gear boxes are in the hands of the man who will make them all fresh and ready to go. The Machinist has everything needed to complete his work. Only machine work that might be left to do is if the .035" off of the head isn't enough to get to the combustion chamber CC size I need for the compression ratio I am going to.
 
I got a big box from all our friends at Walcks that had the rest of the clutch linkage parts I needed. Now I just have to make the modified link rod (going to spherical rod end joints instead of a bend piece of rod and a cotter pin) I also need to ream the clutch arm out to accept a Bronze bushing I will be using at the pivot. But I think I will hold off on that until I am actually building the linkage so I know I am getting everything correct. Should be super smooth and very durable by the time I am done.
 
I also got one of the little Hood Ornament emblems from a wagon or Pickup that I am going to use along with a horn button from a 66 chevelle to make a custom horn button to fit a Grant Steering Wheel horn kit.
 
I'm going to be building a Banjo style 15" steering wheel (with three spokes made up of 3) 1/4" stainless steel rods threaded into the hub and outer ring made from Industrial grade Canvas base Micarta) to use in the Willys as a way to help make a little room for me tummy.
 
And today is all about cleaning up the Willys side of the carport/garage now that I have gotten rid of a bunch of stuff. 
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan. 2015 at 12:24am
WOW what a weekend. I got the tranny cross member and skid plate all cleaned up and soaked down with Phosphate. I'll paint them with the frame later since the first coat will be POR-15 and I want to do that mess all at once. POR-15 a Tie Coat Primer then Chassis Black from Martin Senior.

I got my clutch and brake pedals cleaned straightened and painted.

Did a WHOLE bunch of clean up and organization in the Willys shop I can actually walk around in there with out jumping or tripping over something heck I don't even have to turn sideways in most areas.

But today was a total frustration. As many of you know I am making a lot of improvements to my Willys. And one of the things I'm doing is completely upgrading everything about the clutch and brake systems.

Along this path I am putting a bushing in the Brake Pedal Arm. So instead of a steel on steel pivot on the Clutch Pivot Tube its a nice Bronze bushing that when combined with the new zert fitting (1/8" 27T Pipe taper thread found at ACE hardware in the little screw drawers NAPA NO HAVE) should make a very smooth pedal pivot and reduce the chance for wear on the Clutch Pivot tube.

WELL ever try to make a 1" D hole into a 1.125" D hole? I own a milling machine and I own a small lathe I have piles of tooling I have hundreds of drill bits. What I don't have is a dad gum $110.00 reamer.

SO I got the bright idea that "Hey a brake cylinder hone works in that diameter) So I went down to NAPA and bought a $32.00 Brake Cylinder Hone set. And you know what that is the slowest possible way ever to try to enlarge that dammmm hole. I worked at it nearly 45 min of actual cutting time and I enlarged the hole exactly .015" so I only have .110" to go. I have a special insert blade type drill that is used to drill big holes deep into steel it uses a 1" pilot (which even if I order the $17.00 + 13.00 shipping bit the proper size or I grind one of the ones I have down) the hole is now to large to fit the pilot.

Think an Oxy/Acetaline  torch would work???

I'll figure it out but man what a PITA

I'm about to change gears and get serious about getting the frame ready for a welder to come and work on it for a couple hours. I feel the Need the need to BUILD. and I can't do that until I have something to start bolting stuff to. Gotta get the frame painted.

Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan. 2015 at 11:33pm
Well lets just say today was interesting (cause the mod's might not like 3 paragraphs of cussing) I spent the morning making a special spade bit to fit my large hole drilling tool for the Milling machine only to discover there is no known way to actually clamp that silly arm in such a way to be able to cut it. SO after trying to get somewhere with the brake hone idea I gave up used a thin piece of tin as a spacer to wrap around the pilot section of the tool (its supposed to use a 1" D hole as a pilot hole. But since I had enlarged the hole somewhat and had no way to clamp it I had to make sure it would be self guiding.

And I took a chance. With the arm hitting the column on the milling machine to keep it from turning should the tool catch. I went at it and was doing real good until the tin spacer fell out and the whole mess started chattering. I got the machine shut off and was about an 1/8" from through. I free hand ground that last 1/8" and then used the Brake hone to get it smoothed up.

Used the bench vise to push the bushing in. It felt pretty good. But was to tight for the arm to pivot on the shaft. In trying to use the brake hone to open up the bushing I ended up hour glassing the hole.

FINE I shove the back up bushing (always buy 2 or more) on the shaft and then shove the shaft in the messed up bushing and use a BIG HAMMER to push the new bushing in while making the messed up bushing to leave. Then I spent almost 2 hours working to get the shaft out of the arm and bushing. I had to make a puller of sorts from my clamping set for the milling machine. Which while slow worked.

Once I had the shaft out of the bushing I ran a new set of brake hone stones in the bushing to just barely clean it up. Still to tight for the arm to fit on and pivot. SO I went the other way and put the shaft in the lathe and using some 220 grit and 600 grit I made the shaft about .001-.0015" smaller. Since the shaft pivots in the Clutch shaft mount in a different area then the brake pedal that worked out just fine. I have it tight enough to have only a few thousands of side to side play on the end of the arm where the pedal plugs in but just loose enough for Lubriplate to remain on the shaft when inserted into the bushing. SO another words after a day and a half I managed to bush my brake pedal arm. Something that had I had the $110.00 spiral flute 1.125" reamer would have taken less then 15 min.

But I learned about 4 new ways to use some of the tools in my shop LOL.

Now to drill the hole for the Zert to deliver grease through and rewash the arm so I can get it Phosphated and primed and painted. Put the new pedal clamping bolt and lock washer in it and put it on a shelf.

SOME TIMES THE DRAGON WINS!
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berettajeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan. 2015 at 11:38pm
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

But I learned about 4 new ways to use some of the tools in my shop LOL.




Not a total waste of a day. LOL Those new ways may be useful in the future.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flatfender Ben Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2015 at 12:25am
Holy crap!! That sounds like one of my shop days.
Glad to hear you won🔨🔨🔨
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2015 at 11:08pm
Well today was an off day. Got called into work. Good news is $25.00 more Willys money and the payment on the winter Willys budget loan from my 401K gets paid this week out of a pay check instead of my budget.
 
Back at it like I knew what I was doing tomorrow. OH and I got a line on some guy wanting to buy my 66 Chevelle project that stalled out. If that sells the UPS and Fed Ex trucks won't be able to haul the Willys parts to my door fast enough. I will be back on the road by early fall. Soon as I could get the sheet metal done over the summer.
 
Oh there I go dreaming again.
 
Mark W.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berettajeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2015 at 11:25pm
Well good luck on the Chevelle sale!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2015 at 12:19am
OK so I need to put one photo up today. Something I have never seen on a Willys forum before


My Planning and Inspiration board. This is where I put up drawings. photos, printouts and shopping lists for the Willys project. Its actually the doors to the huge cabinet with my Record collection (2600 LPs, 200 7" reel to reel tapes, 600 CD's and 450 Cassettes) I put cork on the outside of the doors so I could use them like a big message board.





Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berettajeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2015 at 10:25am
That it awesome! Clap
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan. 2015 at 10:22am
After you've experienced trying to resize a pedal bushing or steering box you will gain an appreciation for a variety of adjustable reamers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan. 2015 at 8:43pm
Yep I am jealous Joe. Tooling has always been a hard squeeze on my budget.
 
SO today was both a good day and a bad day.
 
Last night late I found an ad for a decent looking Weber DGV 32/36 progressive 2 bbl carb the ad said call anytime up to midnight. SO I DID. talked to the guy a while sounded like it was worth a lot more then the $60 he was asking.
 
I made arrangements to go see it today since I had to head into Salem anyway.
 
First stop McGuire Bearing to pickup some Bronze thrust bearings and a couple of Bronze sleeve bearings for the special clutch and brake linkage I am building. GUESS WHAT the goober at the counter after flipping back and forth in some little paper back catalog tells me they don't carry the Thrust bearings (bronze washers) and the sleeve bearing they don't make. I then took the linkage I had with apart and showed him the one I had bought from them about 3 years ago and explained that they do to make them I can find them all over the internet. But I wanted to support my local supplier instead of the Post office or UPS.
 
I walk out to the pickup and realize in the time it took to make a confirmation call to the carb guy and collect up my notebook and the various parts of the linkage and figure out how to carry everything to the store I LOCKED MY KEYS IN THE DAMN TRUCK!!!!
 
So I call the wife who's home sick from Work and remind her she married a moron and would she be so kind as to get dressed and bring me a key.......... I have no idea why she stay with me!
 
OK so back on the quest. I show up at the carb guys place and he's one of them crazy off road rock crawling tube frame Toyota pickup kind of guys. I check out the carb throttle shafts seam tight enough only one part missing and its part of the Water choke linkage I won't be using so I hand him the cash and collect up the carb, a junk air cleaner and the two piece Toyota adapter that might be of some use in the Manifold project.
 
Come home check out the car some more. It will of course need a complete rebuild kit and I'll either have to fab up a nice mechanical choke set up or settle for one of the ones sold on line. And I will need to build a throttle arm but that was expected since I'll have to make all my own linkage.
 
I then get back to some lathe work on the clutch linkage and make a collar to remove the need for the cotter pin just inboard of the clutch arm. That turned out real nice.
 
Then I placed an order with Mc Master Carr for some of them rare washers and bearing I tried to buy local.
 
not a bad day but not as productive as it could have been. GLAD the search for the carb is over. Also real glad rebuilding a Weber is something I have experience at>
 
 
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan. 2015 at 10:01pm
I bought my first set of reamers while doing warehouse work for Big A auto parts so they cut me a deal. That entire drawer came from the auction of a local Jeep garage for less than $100 last year.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan. 2015 at 10:10pm
I bought a huge tub of drill bits and taps at a kind of estate sale one time for $15.00 Taps up to 1" and matching drills.
 
I found out the sale was the estate of the neighborhood handyman. He had died some years earlier and his wife who had helped him over the years tried to keep doing things but eventually she passed on as well. With no one to inherit and no will the whole place lock stock and barrel went to the State. The State being the State put the whole mess lock stock and barrel up for auction for a single bid.
 
A young couple just getting stated were the highest bidders and they wanted to get moved in but the house and garage were filled to the gills with the good from the old couple. SO they put a price tag on everything they could find and put out a sign.
 
I bought a $400.00 28' extension ladder for $25.00 an Antique brass and copper fire extinguisher for $20.00 and about 40 lbs of tools for maybe $30.00 bucks. Guys were there filling up pickup trucks with tools it was the craziest sale I ever seen.
 
Went by on Sunday and they didn't have a pickup truck worth of junk left.
 
My place would take some serious professional help to liquidate. And the wife has been collecting names to help her with it when the time comes LOL.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan. 2015 at 11:38pm
So today was all about the top half of my new carb.
 
first I figured out how to make 3 little nylon bushings to install in the choke shaft holes.
 
then I spent a LONG time trying to figure out how to make something that is Metric fit something made with Std, tools. Once I figured out how to make a bushing that would fit the shaft that was now a little under 6mm while fitting real tight in a hole drilled with a 23/64 drill bit. Then all I had to do was figure out how to clamp the top of the carb and drill out 2 egged out holes and one that wasn't to bad.
 
Got that done. Figured a way to squeeze the bushings in place. Turns out the 3/8" OD bushings fit  real tight in the 23/64 holes and as a result the 1/4" holes I had drilled the bushings out to closed up a bit. Resulting in my having to find a way to ream them out so the appox. .240 shaft would fit. I had a 1/4" long tapered reamer I was able to get the hole on either end. The one in the middle had a nice wear spot on the shaft to rid in. So now the shaft turns pretty well a little tight. Since I am going with a mechanical choke cable that will work out fine and I would rather it wears itself in to be real smooth then wear in to be loose.
 
So now down to the hardware store to scare up some 3mm .50p tiny screws cause the originals did not look so good after my having to use my tiny vise grips to get them out (factory peened in place)
 
Back home and I take some spray carb cleaner a bunch of various brushes and scrub pads and I make the top all pretty and CLEAN. Didn't want to put the new Nylon bushings into the can of Berrymans carb cleaner no telling what I would get back.
 
So now I have to make a new arm for the choke shaft as the one that was on it someone had welded! on clocked wrong. I'll make one that will go with the DIY cable mount and bellcrank I am going to make and then silver solder it on.
 
I'll get a nice photo of my carb work tomorrow and throw it on here.
 
Off to a swap meet tomorrow hoping to find a 2" drop Manual Saginaw Pitman arm. Along with a few other goodies.
 
 
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan. 2015 at 7:58pm
OK been a while I been mostly cleaning up in my shop trying to find a work bench and get some stuff organized after 10 years of neglect.

I did make some good progress on my modified Clutch Shaft/Brake Arm pivot upgrade.

Using one of Willys factory slop adjusters and some parts modified and some new parts here is what I have so far.

OK first The arm is a brand new repop from Walcks very high quality and a very nice weld.




I won't go through all the steps since there was a lot of learning along the way but to get right to it.

The shaft was polished with some 600 grit to a real nice shine.

The weld which is on the right side of the photo above was cut on the lathe so it was slightly smaller and didn't spread out on the arm and shaft so far (I still left way past what would make a strong joint.

I took a 7/8" ID 1.5" OD set screw type shaft collar from ACE and using the lathe reamed it out to 1.00" and then cut a step into it so it would bridge over top of the cleaned up weld and bear on the clutch lever. The clutch lever was also turned slightly to square it to the shaft. I used the ACE collar only because it was less work being so close to what I needed already.

The brake arm itself I detailed above putting a bushing inside it. I now added 1" ID x 1.5" OD x 1/16" thick thrust washers on each side of.

The next part you see as you work your way right from the Brake Pedal Arm is a 1" ID X 1.125" OD x .250" long bushing that will be the inside of the new heavier Clutch Pedal / Brake Pedal shaft to Master Cylinder brace which I will make from some 1/4" angle iron stock I have. I will be using one of Herms Dual Master Cylinder upgrade kits with his mount. I even got some tiny Zerk grease fittings to put into the 1/4" thick brace.

And then you see the large cupped adjusting nut from the Willys Slop removing kit that will adjust the end play on everything. And finally the Nylon insert lock nut that will be the Jam nut to hold the adjustment.

I have completely eliminated the cotter pins and any slop in the stack.

The next step is the Clutch Shaft mount. Which will be made from a block of 1020 cold rolled and have two .125" wall flanged Bronze bushings as well as a hidden Zerk grease fitting. It will be Bolted to the frame in the factory Rivet holes with grade 8 bolts and a couple short welds on each side to make sure. The bushings will be servicable so the mount should never have to come off again once I put it on.

Having everything riding on Bronze bushings and greasable if serviced this should never wear out and if it does I can easily replace any of the bushings to refresh it.

Yes I know over engineering my tractor again. But hey its my thing. Wink
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berettajeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan. 2015 at 9:35pm
Nice and shiny!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan. 2015 at 9:59pm
Yea once put together and right before I grease it for the first time it will all get a coat of Chassis black to help protect it.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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