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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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ndnchf View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jan. 2018 at 11:28am
That's really nice work Mark. I enjoy seeing well thought out fabrication. You've clearly put your heart and soul into this project and it showsThumbs Up
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jan. 2018 at 11:42am
Looks good. I like that you made it removable. In hindsight, I probably should have done the same. 

Nice work as always! 
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46 Bantam T3c "4366"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan. 2018 at 2:51am
SO I spent my 4 hours I could work on CHUG today (I am working tonight on the freeway putting in an emergency turn around So last night stayed up until 4am and got up at 10:30 this morning) Working on the Clamp portion of my Oversized battery tray. I've gone through 4 different designs along the way and made some parts for a couple of them.

This time I am set on the design. It uses 2) "sheets" of 16ga Aluminum 5" wide that are bolted to the bottom of the Tray railing each with 3) 1/4"-28t x 1/4" button head bolts and lock washers. The sheet then wraps around the railing and runs up to a 3/4" thick block of Micarta 5" wide x 7 3/16 long (the width of the outside of the tray rails) There 3) more 1/4"-20tx3/4" bolts attach it to each end of the block. The block is milled out for two 1/4" x 1" x 5" steel pressure clamps to push down on the edges of the battery. There will be 2) 3/8" x 16t x 1/2" Bolts that apply the pressure down through the Block. The center of the block is also milled out to reduce weight and bulk.

This design allows the maximum clearance between the battery and the Alternator (basically the thickness of 16ga aluminum past the Tray it self) It is also a very clean design with no sharp hardware or brackets so when I am working on the right side of the engine I won't be banging into or leaning on something uncomfortable.

The Micrata Block on the top is also NON CONDUCTIVE (heck they used to make circuit boards from Micarta) and will have a nice 4.5" x 6.5" flat spot on top to set my beer on while working on the Distributor LOL.

I'll paint the Block Satin Black, The Aluminum I'll leave natural. Should make a nice looking battery set up.

I need to go down and take some measurements off the exact battery I am going to use to be sure I get the clamp sized correctly as it will only have a tiny bit of adjustment. And I want to make up a couple of the Battery cables now. but I don't want the Battery until right before Start Up.

Photos in a few days.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan. 2018 at 1:47am
Well I knew if I looked hard enough I would find it. WHERE the over sized battery tray and the Idea of a Group 31 Commercial/Farm battery would be a problem. At first I thought it was going to be the Radiator overflow bottle. Then I was sure it was going to be the Alternator (this might still be a problem) But while standing there staring at the tray with the Battery hold down clamp attached I noticed how close the right front corner of the Battery might come to the Battery disconnect mounting cup. And sure enough its going to be a problem. How much I won't know until I have the battery and  the clamp finished.

I wonder if the guys at NAPA would loan me a battery for a couple hours? I wouldn't be attaching anything to it. I'll have to ask.

If it does interfere I think I have a few remedies.

1. wiggle the battery to the far sides of the tray (could gain an 1/8th on the front to rear and the left to right axis's
2. wiggle the Tray mount until it touches the the inner fender at the right rear corner again maybe a 1/8" gain.
3. reduce the depth of the Battery disconnect mounting cup This could solve the problem completely but it would also cause the switch lever to protrude out of the line of the inner fender I was hoping to keep it below flush.
4.Go to a group 27 battery this gains me way more then enough as they are 1/2" shorter. I would loose the Threaded Stud type terminals, 240 CCA, 55min of reserve Which is a lot of Juice.
5. Go to a AGM type battery at nearly 3 times the cost to retain the performance in a smaller physical size.

The good news is I managed to get myself off working nights this week or at least it looks that way.
 
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leecarr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan. 2018 at 2:07am
I hate to spend your money but the more expensive battery would save a lot of work in the long run plus give you a little buffer in case of size variation. This is a dumb question at this point but have you ever considered  putting it in the cowl like an M38? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan. 2018 at 7:15am
I did think about the cowl at one point but I decided not to go that route as I have other things I wanted to stuff up under there.

And after the further assembly I just did its a moot point in a way. The solution is either a different Battery disconnect switch or a different way of mounting it. As it turns out The batteries position is the least of my problems. I went ahead and assembled the little mounting cup and switch to the inner fender and while staring at it I noticed how close to where the Headlight Bucket the back of that huge switch was going to be.

YEP it bangs right into the Headlight Bucket almost 3/8" before the Bucket is seated against the Grill. SO either I have the switch flush mounted to the Inner Fender which means the Switch Lever is completely exposed on the outside or I find a different style switch.

SO since there must be 20 different switches and at least a half dozen styles of switches to choose from I'll look there first. I really only chose this one from Pollack as its the exact same one we use on our older dump trucks and they are switched on an off every day. The majority of those switches are more then 10 years old so I figured they would hold up well.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan. 2018 at 10:21am
OK Problems solved. Went to Waytek and shopped battery disconnect switches and found one that will allow me to modify the mounting cup so it clears the battery and does not extend so far into the engine compartment that it hits the Headlight Bucket.

Interesting design switch in operation its rotary with a large plastic knob but also has an emergency off feature where if you hit the knob it turns off. So like in case of an electrical fire all I would have to do is hit the knob to disconnect the battery.

Over all its a much more compact switch has the same environmental sealing rating as the big Pollack switch. Not cheap with the shipping and small order charge but Waytek has some of the best Auto electrical stuff prices I have found.

Now to get on with finishing up the Battery clamp 
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeeper50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan. 2018 at 1:26pm
 
You need one of these old school saws for your project. Its a little slower than a bandsaw, but for being around 100 years old, it cuts just fine and is a ball to watch in action


You need a rear drum PTO to drive that saw!!

[/QUOTE]

Belleview ol skool winch soon.
'48 CJ2A 283 V8 sm 420 granny low, tera low D18, overdrive,lockers

Texan at heart,Alabama by retirement

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2018 at 1:15am
So today the wife had a trip to Portland planned to visit with some of her cross stitch hobby friends. I figured it would be a good time to run up to Crosscut Hardwoods and see if they had the piece of White Oak I need for the bed strips in CHUG. Turns out after lifting and shuffling some really heavy pieces of 1.75" thick oak I found a nice 8 bd ft piece with really straight grain and good color.

I am going to cut it into 1/2" thick 1.5" wide strips and stack them in the living room behind the couch to dry (pellet stove heating) Then before I go to install them I will plane them down to .375" thick and cut them down to 1.375" wide and to length. Hopefully they will stay pretty straight.

$76.00 in Oak.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leecarr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2018 at 1:45am
Don't let it dry too fast it will curl all to pieces. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2018 at 3:18am
Its already cured to the point it would be ready for most furniture makers. I selected a piece that had been in the stack quite some time from the looks of it. But yes I know about curing out a piece of wood to fast.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shadow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2018 at 6:00am
The oak strips will look sharp in the back floor
lets go for a rip eh bud

Andy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2018 at 8:26am
They will be held down with a Stainless steel Button head counter sunk into the wood ever 5" the strips will run all the way up and across the tool box lid. I was going to go so far as to put them on the Tailgate. But I just can't figure a way to attach a flat sheet of metal to the back of the gate and a way to attach the wood without it having to go through the tailgate. SO thats been put on the back burner of great ideas until I either do or give it up.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan. 2018 at 4:20am
SO not much done today wife dragged me into Salem to check out the new Hobby Lobby. OK fine lots of stuff but not a lot of anyone category. I mean they had one syringe of 5min epoxy. ACE has a half dozen kinds of Epoxy at least.

OK so what I did do. I took my Fancy Battery tray down to my buddies at NAPA and asked to see one of the Group 31 Batteries like I will be buying. Turns out while I made the tray about 3/16" on both dimensions bigger then the web sites said a Group 31 battery was and the various sellers of this battery said it was. Its actually smaller. SO thats a good thing for me. I can push it a little farther away from the Battery shut off switch. Its also shorter then I thought the on line measurements obviously include the posts. SO my clamp will end up being almost an inch closer to the tray. NICE!

I did spend some time at the drill press and lathe and I made a new piece for the New Battery Disconnect switch. I changed the mounting cup to suit the smaller switch and I'm sure I will now have plenty of room between the switch and the Head Light Bucket.

I'm going to wait until the switch arrives in a day or three to Epoxy the new piece into the old piece I want to see how far I can sink the Knob into the cup. The less it sticks out into the wheel well the harder it will be to see (theft deterrent).

Tomorrow I pull the right front tire and wheel off so I can drill the mounting holes through the frame for the Battery Tray. Once that is done I can tear everything back apart and get the Tray Sand Blasted and Painted.

SO much for cleaning up the shop this week LOL
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leecarr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan. 2018 at 1:05am
Have you considered using that double sided sticky tape used to put moldings on cars now, I know they make it real thin now. Some of the old cars we used to play with had moldings clips that slid over a stud that looked like a nail. Only thing is you a special gun to weld them on. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan. 2018 at 8:04am
Interesting day. The weather was quite nice so I thought it would be a good day to tackle one of the projects for the shop I been needing to do. First a little lay of the land.

My shop is where a garage would be in a normal house (it was never a garage but built specifically as a shop for mostly wood work. I then converted it to my use when I was a custom knifemaker I also added 4 feet to the front of it. It has a set of barn type doors (double swing out) on one side and a man door on the side closest to the house. It measures 32' long and 19.5' wide.

A few years back I added a large free span carport to the front of it. The city would not allow me to build a real garage. The carport is 19.5' x 22' long. Over the years I have slowly completely walled in the North side and filled in the wall on the South that projects past our full length front porch.

Back in 2004 when I started on the Jeep I put up a wall 10' from the north wall and put a pair of framed up barn doors on the end. The idea was to create a Place for the Jeep (at the time I also had a 66 Chevelle project going. It has since been sold and the proceeds poured in to CHUG)

ANY WAY today I took the doors off the front of the shop and moved them to the front of the carport/garage/jeep shop. I have a good sized Maple tree right next to the North wall of the carport thats roots have raised the floor in front of the shop to the point the doors could not be fully opened. WELL its now a full 8' wide passage way. And the front of the carport looks MUCH better as these doors have T1-11 siding on them rather then the sun burnt and aged 3/8" plywood that was starting to come apart.

Wife is happy I'm happy as this was a big step towards getting the Jeep shop section converted into a Spray booth/body shop.

And my new Battery disconnect switch arrived and its about perfect. I had a little more rework to do to my mount but I have all the clearance I will need for the battery and its plenty clear of the headlight bucket.

I'll have the mount ready to paint in a couple days (I'm filling the ends of the screw holes with PC-7 epoxy since they can be seen now with the modifications) And I will get you all some photos.

The Battery tray and new radiator mounting tabs are all painted. I also got my Gas tank straps painted (still need to weld that outer strap anchor to the tub!)

Been doing a lot of serious cleaning up in the shop. I even threw away 4) paper boxes of old model airplane magazines and a large control line plane that hasn't handled being stored in the shop well. Along with about 10 gallons of other crap. One of these days I may get all of the shop back from junk storage in the mean time I'm trying to organize as best I can while getting something done on the jeep.

OH by the way man handling and hanging those 2 x 4 framed doors with 5/8" thick plywood on them was a PITA.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leecarr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan. 2018 at 8:43pm
I don't know why that stuff is so heavy, it used to be available in 9' sheets that were even worse and it's never flat. Lots of cursing required, even more when working alone. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan. 2018 at 10:09pm
So I got it all mocked up just now to make sure everything is going to fit with everything. AND IT DOES quite nicely.

Here is the NEW Battery Disconnect Switch mounted in its modified cup that recesses it into the Inner Fender, The Battery represented by the full size Cardboard model, The Aluminum Radiator Overflow Bottle and the Right Head Light Bucket.

This view is obviously looking over the right fender:



This next one is from the left side of the engine compartment:



This one is a direct overhead view:



And last one showing the Switch from the outside of the Right Inner Fender. There will be a total of ten button head screws holding the mount (yea I got carried away LOL) as well as two tiny flat head self tapping screws holding the knob on (one of them kind of egged out so I fixed it but not putting the knob on for real until final assembly) I can easily reach under the fender and turn the switch clockwise about 90 degrees to turn it on and when I want to turn it off all I have to do is push on it and it snaps off. I have put the switch on the NEG side of the battery so that it in a more convenient place and will break all power to the Jeep. The Commercial type battery I am going to use has Threaded Stud type posts centered about 3" in from the edges of the battery. SO on the NEG side I will have a cable less then 6" long made from 1/0 cable with soldered copper HD terminals on both ends. The ground wire to the Engine will go straight down from the switch loop around the forward Battery Tray support and then head right to the Bottom Bolt on the Engine Plate. Other Grounds will run to the Fire Wall , Headlight Harness, Dash, Forward Power connection point (for a winch or jumper cables also mounted under the right fender, and to the Rear of the Jeep where it will both serve the tail lights and the Trailer plug.



I will create a Terminal Block for the Positive Cable mounted on the Inner Fender. Where it will split off to its various needs.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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