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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb. 2018 at 2:14am
I had to do a little hammer work on the rolled edge on the front of my hood and as I hit the metal with my little 4oz ball pen the black crap around the impact point just popped off the metal leaving a clean shiny piece of steel. YEA glad I took the time and effort to grind it off the outside of the hood. On the inside I just finished scuffing it all up with 180grit and will lay some Epoxy Primer sealer over it before painting.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb. 2018 at 4:52am
SO I tried something yesterday to see how it would work. I ran about 5 layers of green masking tape along the edge of the hood below the WILLYS logo and made sure they were in a straight line. Some of you will remember there was talk awhile ago about how when MD Juan stamps the Logo it tends to pull up the bottom edge of the hood so from the side there is a slight curve to the bottom edge.

Anyway I used this tape straight edge as both a straight edge for depth and as a dam to help control the PC-7 Epoxy I smeared on the bottom edge (after getting it as close to straight as I could with hammer and dolly) I tried to lay on a little extra as its easier to sand off then reapply.

And this morning after having the little space heater running through the grill all night to warm the epoxy so it would cure I sanded it out flat with a 17" flat board sander and some 80 grit. It came out pretty nice a few low spots but nothing bigger then a nickle. And this afternoon I smeared some body filler on the low spots and along the sides where the tape stuck a little to the curve at the bottom edge of the hood so the Epoxy did not fill in properly.

And I was able to sand that to pretty much a sharp edge flat in both directions. I have a couple spots to touch up tomorrow and then I will round the corner a little. I think the effort was worth the results.

I have the outside of the hood ready for its skim coat of filler and the inside is all scuffed to 180grit. I finished up the Seam sealing on the left fender and have it treated with Phosphate on the outside of the inner fender and the underside.I have a little more filler work to do to the engine side of the inner fender then it will get Phosphate pickled as well.

I would be done with the hood tomorrow but I have to go to Eugene with my mom to pickup her new Travel Trailer (she lives in one in an RV park here in town and is upgrading) SO that will screw most of tomorrow as a Jeep shop day. I should still be able to get the other side edge sanded out before I leave and maybe I'll have time to at least get the filler spread on the hood before I have to break for dinner.

getting close to finalizing  the front clip so I can get to the tub filler work. PROGRESS. if even slow.

I'm starting to feel a little panicked as my return to work can't be but a month away. Lots to do and little time to do it.

 
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb. 2018 at 6:23am
WOW Hood took more time then I thought. You would hope a new hood even one from MD Juan would be close to flat. Mine has bowed up on either side of the seam like they did not bend the flanges quite far enough before putting it together. I did my best to keep the filler down as thin as possible while trying to get it close to flat.

I failed... I also lost the center seam. My first attempt at cleaning it up ended up with it much to big.

I'm going to try one more time to cut a decent looking seam and if that doesn't work I'll go with a smooth hood.

If I had had the money I would have bought the one piece hood from Classic Enterprises anyway and that has no seam.

Right fender has had the filler coat restored after messing up some of it when I had to do some welding on the fender brace.

Got little done today as it was help the son fix his pickup day. He lives in one of three counties here in Oregon where in order to get license tags your vehicle has to pass an emissions test and his was throwing a couple codes so we got that squared away.

Hopefully tomorrow finishes up the hood and I can get the front clip reassembled and figure out the alignment of the parts.




Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2018 at 2:55am
SO today...lets just say I ain't working on the hood anymore until I get some Hi Build primer on it and can get a real good look at how its doing so far. It feels pretty good I have everything flat like and smooth and blended. But I still feel a little of a flat area above the side curves. How bad will require one color to see.

I gave up on the center seam. The filler is just to thick in that area as it is. And I figured all I could do trying to cut one into the filler is screwing it up. If Chug was some sort of a restoration then I would care. But hey theres more custom on this then stock. SO I have a flat hood.  OK flatish.

I still need to open up the hinge holes a little and I need to locate the Hold down holes as well as the Windshield blocks.

Want to get those drilled before I take it off the stand I been doing the filler work on in case it needs some touch up.

Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PapaC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2018 at 4:05pm

First of all I am not at all opposed to the thought of a flat seam in the hood. Not at all.  My thoughts however are that metal likes to expand and contract with extreme temperature changes.  Filler, either bondo or fiberglass doesn’t.  My concerns are what I consider a strong possibly of later after painting a crack forming  down that filled in seam.... especially since it’s down a large area on a already somewhat flimsy hood like that we have on our jeeps.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2018 at 4:46pm
Yep that is a possibility. As to the expansion causing cracks I would say that would happen anywhere you find body filler. Yet it doesn't.

And adding a cut into the filler wouldn't stop a crack at this point it would only make the filler thinner at the bottom of the cut. Had I known I was going to end up here I would have started the fill over the crack with PC-7 Epoxy but I didn't.

The hood was low enough along the edges of the seam that the filler directly about the edge of the seam is about 1/8" to 5/32" thick and of course goes down into the crack.

I'm going to set the hood on the jeep today I'll get some photos.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leecarr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2018 at 9:08pm
I filled over the crack in the hood and when the filler was cured the right amount I ran a very thin putty knife down the seem, then worked it with sand paper when hard . I had to touch up a few spots but it came out fairly good .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb. 2018 at 1:04am
Lee based on the amount of filler my hood is easily 3 times as bad as yours.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leecarr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb. 2018 at 1:12am
I believe it, it could have used more but I had to find a happy medium. Where your problems in the same areas? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb. 2018 at 3:26am
Mine was low in the middle along the seam and then had flats in the curves on the sides. I also messed with filling in some of the bow in the bottom edges we talked about. And the front edge is peaked in the center. Not straight across like one would prefer.

And then the biggest problem the fact the whole thing is 3/8" short compared to my stock hood. I was able to fiddle around and get it so the rolled edge is all out past the grill but there sure isn't an abundance of over hang.

But its pretty much ready for Primer so I'm going to live with it
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb. 2018 at 7:01am
So I now have the Hood ready for Primer (save drilling a few holes)

Both Fenders still need the back slope skim coated (I want to wait until I have everything lined up and bolted together as that area tends to move around a lot when I tweek the fenders into the proper alingment) but other wise are ready for primer inside and out.

About 1/3 of the grill is currently ready for Primer and I'll finish the rest up in the morning.

A couple more days and I should be thinking about pulling the tub.

I need to get back to the tailgate as well its been hanging up in the rafters about half sanded out after I squared it away with PC-7 Epoxy it needs a Skim coat of filler now.

This Body filler stuff is ideal for me to do at night after the wife hits the rack (she gets up at 3am for work) no noise louder then the stereo playing in the shop which it does all the time. (my shop is directly under our bed!)

I can't wait to get back to working on the chassis since its all just assembly now.

Our Start up meeting (the unofficial start of construction season for us normally) is only 2 weeks away. SO I got to get some stuff done. I really wanted to have this thing in primer before work started. Doubt that will happen. Hopefully I won't be doing 60 hour 6 day weeks for a while. That really slows the work on CHUG to a crawl.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar. 2018 at 4:13am
So I got to a place today where I had to wait for some PC-7 epoxy to dry (takes days) before I can finish up the filler work on the left fender. I decided to get back to work on the Roll bar. Its been sitting there clamped together at the joint between the main hoop and the braces. I moved it out of the way some and then since I had done my layout on green masking tape (hey lot easier to draw on then steel) I took a center punch and marked the location circles for the four places it connects to the Base plates.

I then sanded the boiler plate clean in this area. I fiddled around with some other stuff and next thing I knew I decided to go ahead and tack the thing together. I had been planning on having a friend who is a certified welder do the actual welding (safety and all you know)

WELL NEXT THING I KNOW I'm welding my brains out on it. Not pretty but I'm getting good penetration and welds are coming out huge. I got the little Lincoln 140 cranked up and cookin. And a couple hours later the thing is pretty much all welded together. I still have the under side of the braces to do. No way am I talented enough to even goober weld upside down. I'll wait until I take it off the jeep to clean up a couple areas and to do the bottom of the brace joints.

It went on pretty dang close to square and straight up and down. SO happy with that. And it looks like its very solid. I guess we will find out if I ever roll it.

I'll bet the Micarta that is under it has some pretty good burn marks on it.

I do know one thing I will never walk in the house and tell the wife I have decided to become a welder.

One more thing off the list of things to do.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leecarr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar. 2018 at 2:05pm
I do the tape trick all the time, comes in handy when you're working on a very expensive piece of pre finished mill work or cabinetry. I wish they would make it plain white.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar. 2018 at 1:49am
SO as of this evening I have all the Filler work done on the 4) front clip pieces. They are all ready for Hi Build Primer and then Block sanding to get read for Paint.

SO now I want to assemble them all back to the way they go. SO I can get the location pin holes drilled I mentioned above. Gonna need some help on this. Wonder what the neighbor guy is up to tomorrow?

I also have the inside walls of the Rear Wheel Houses ready for Hi Build. I'll do the fronts of the Wheel Houses but I won't be going as nuts on them since they are hidden behind the seats.

Going to take a super close look at the dash and see if it has anything that will require filler. I have filled a couple holes in the dash with PC-7 epoxy. But I think spot putty and the Hi Build will smooth that out.

Work is starting to get ramped up (I worked a full day Friday and will have 4-5 hours Tuesday and then our annual start up meeting on Friday (2/3's of a day) SO I got to hurry up and get this tub on the rotisserie.

Rumor has it this year could be easily as busy as last year. Which from a House paid off retirement 6-7 years away need to pack the 401K point of view is a good thing. But another 7 months of 6 day weeks sure won't help get CHUG on the road by Fall.

Time or Money the great problem.

 
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar. 2018 at 8:57pm
Interesting while waiting for some epoxy to dry. I got distracted by my steering and where the heck its going to be routed.

I have:

1. IDIDIT Classic Steering Column (looks like a 2A column in size)
 
1. Borgenson 36 spline to 3/4" coupler
1. Borgenson Double D to double D U joint 35 degree max off set.
1. Borgenson Double D to Double D combo U Joint Vibration dampener
1. 3/4" ID Heim Joint

SO far the run looks like this coming from the Steering box which the shaft is under the Cross Member.

Steering Box, Coupler, 3 1/2" shaft, U-Joint/Vibration dampener, shaft (length to be determined which will pass through the Left Motor Mount), Heim Joint (right before U-Joint mounted to plate attached to Boxing plate on frame), U-Joint, Steering column shaft, Column will stop at Firewall it has an internal bearing for the bottom of the outer tube. Inner shaft will continue to meet U-Joint at hopefully less then the 35 Degree angle.

I'll make an aluminum steering column clamp to center the column in the Toe board hole.

This looks as if the column was to be struck head on with the two joints and at the angle they look to be running it will cause the Wheel to travel up rather then straight back at me.

The best part is if this works it appears I will be able to get the steering shaft and U-Joints out of the area the TRI Y header setup will need to be using. I can use a Button Head bolt upside down for the Motor mount on that side so I gain as much clearance as possible while it travels through the Motor mount.

I won't get to serious about the fine details until I am actually building the Header (and of course the engine is sitting in the chassis).

I might add one more Hiem Joint to support the Vibration Dampener Joint. Can't hurt as long as its all in alignment.

OH all four pieces of the Front clip are currently ready for Hi Build Primer all the Filler work being completed. The Inner Walls of the Wheel Houses are as well ready for Primer.

I been working on completing the Micarta pieces that will surround the Roll bar plates. A couple hours those will be done.

Need to reassemble the Front clip to work out alignment details.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leecarr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar. 2018 at 9:32pm
Best part is I assume you won't have to lower the body over the column. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick G Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar. 2018 at 9:34pm
Mark, do you have a part number and/or pics of your vibration dampener?  I used Borgeson to build my steering system also, except for the vibration dampener.  I may want to add this.  I originally used a Flaming River tilt column but have replaced it with a modified original column.  I’m anxious to see how yours looks completed.
1947 CJ2a #119929    "Gus"
1951 CJ3a #451-GB1-24268   “Newt”

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar. 2018 at 10:28pm
Rick it will be a while before I get the steering all set up. But be assured I will post photos.

As to the Borgenson part number it is Part #: 154949 I went with Natural Stainless it is also available in plain steel and polished. I wanted the rust resistance but not the fancy price LOL.

If you go to their web site they have a HUGE number of different styles of these one might work better for you then what I chose

http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/home.php

vibration reducers

http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/home.php?cat=3

Good luck and as I make progress on it I will post photos and details.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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