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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec. 2018 at 7:49pm
So until the boys show up to help get the tranny on to the engine I have been screwing around with seeing if my Tri Y header idea has room to fit. I gave up on using Foam board patterns and I'm now gluing up some wood that I'll shape into the 2 into 1 collectors that are the key to this idea. Man I hate waiting for glue to dry LOL.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec. 2018 at 1:19am
WOW I found a simple solution to my master cylinder interference problem I can go with  Master Cylinder from Wildwood. But at $199 bucks it will be a last resort. Firs thing to do is go to NAPA and start opening up boxes to see what I can find on the shelf.

I also find others that have outlets on both sides. Which could be a way to go.

This 1972 CJ-5 Master Cylinder I have is plenty FAT there has to be a Skinner version.


Edited by Mark W. - 29 Dec. 2018 at 1:42am
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Flatfender Ben View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flatfender Ben Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec. 2018 at 8:55pm
Keep up the great work Clap
We can’t wait to see the end result.... of this amazing project.
1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog
1948 cj2a blue jeep
1953 cj3b yard dog
1955 willys wagon
1955 willys pickup
1956 willys pickup boomer
1960 fc 170
1968 jeepster commando
1990 Grand wagoneer
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec. 2018 at 11:59pm
I spent most of today working on my TRI Y header design and I can see now that messing with the header or the brakes or anything else in that crowed little area is a waste of time. I need to get the bell housing and gear boxes in place so I know exactly how much clearance or where the lack of clearance is at.

A side note trying to hold 1/2 dozen elbows and collectors and short pieces of tubing in mid air while trying to figure out how best to route them around the DANG NAB BLASTED AND+T#_@*HQSBQ{S Oil pump is not an easy thing to do.

The son and son inlaw are supposed to be over early tomorrow afternoon to do the heavy lifting so we can get the Gear boxes in place.

Once its sat on the cross member and I know exactly where it sits I'll get back to work on the Brake Master Cylinder clearance problem and then tackle to lunatic idea of building my own design header.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Mike F View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2018 at 12:20am
Mark,
Just a suggestion have you thought about using small diameter rod or better yet tubing for your mock up. Using this you are laying out the center lines of your header pipes. I.e.  run the tubing at wherever the center line of the finished header pipe will be. If you use something like 1/4 inch tube the bends can be made nicely with a tubing bender. Once you have something workable. The dimensions for the finished pipes will be in the mock-up. You just need to allow for clearance as you lay it out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2018 at 11:28am
What I am doing is I have all the dimensions from the available Bends I can get in 16ga 1.5" OD Mild tubing. I have actually made some of the curves in wood. With my belt grinders and skill as a knifemaker grinding blades and handles its nothing for me to make a 90 degree elbow thats very close to what it will be in pipe (surface flaws only) I have a bunch of 1.5" OD under sink PVC tubing and a couple rolls of masking tape. I even made exact copies of the 2 into 1 collectors I will be using.

With clearances so tight anything not at the full dimension of the tubing I will be using could/would cause problems when I go to actually making the header.

If I have the 4 primary tubes come together in the middle of the engine (directly below the #2 and #3 exhaust ports) and head straight down past the Oil pump I have maybe 1/2" total clearance between the frame and the oil pump. I then have to make an immediate 90 degree to have the tubing stay up above the bottom of the oil pan (don't want exhaust hanging down to get caught on stuff) I can then transition to the Secondary pipe for a few feet and then into the final transition to 2.25" tail pipe.

Yesterday was all about trying to have the first collectors that takes 2) 1.5" OD tubes and transitions them into a single 1.75" OD tube right near the Oil pump I now see that is not going to work. So now I plan on looking into the tubes all passing the Oil Pump together in a tight group of 4 and then making the 90 degree just below the pump. and right into the first collectors.

Should be interesting to see if I can swing this. Especially since all the Primary tubes SHOULD BE the same length/volume.

Just a puzzle to solve. I give it a week and then I will seriously consider other options.



Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2018 at 4:42pm
Holy Smokes.

I think I have a design that will fit. Now the details

I am using a Tri Y design that means Cylinders #1 and #4 come together in a 2 to 1 collector and then of course Cylinders #2 and #3 come together in another collector.

Using what calculators I can find on line and as much info as I have on the 134L (mine now displaces 140cu in) and some educated guess's The calculators tell me these primary tubes (from the header flange to the 2-1 collectors) at the RPM's I figure I will be running 2200-3000 rpm show I should use a Primary tube in the 46" to 56" range or close enough.

The design I have will easily lend itself to having Primary tubes of that length. I will end up with 4) 1.5" OD tubes coming together in a square bundle right by the Oil pump (just enough room for a little Heat wrap) Just below the Oil pump two tubes will make a 4" CLR (center line radius) and two tubes will make a 2.5" CLR and then the tubes will follow the normal path under the Brake Master Cylinder and Clutch stuff Just behind the Clutch linkage I will place the Two 2 into 1 collectors These will be 1.5" OD tubes transitioning to a single 1.75" OD tube The Secondary tubes will be about 12-18" long depending on where I start the hump up over the rear axle. The Tail pipe will be a 2.25" D making a 90 degree turn past the Rear axle and passing through a Turbo style muffler 4.25" x 8.75" x 14" and exiting in the stock position behind the right rear wheel.

Preliminary measurements show I will have an imbalance of with 2.125" between the two sets of Primary's I'm working on a way to correct this. I am also working on a way to run the 4 primary tubes flat side by side from below the Oil Pump to the first collectors. But right now my brain is over loaded so time for Lunch and then I should be on to dropping the Gear boxes into the chassis as my son will be down in about an hour.

The closer I can get everything to exactly the same length the better it will help increase my bottom to mid range torque. And since 134L's do not run about what most would call Mid range RPM (a small block chevy old school hot rod would be a 600-7000rpm+ engine While a 134L is a 600 to 4000rpm engine. If I can work it down to a 1inch difference in a 50" tube thats only a 2% difference I can live with 2%. If not I guess I can tolerate 4%




Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2018 at 7:18pm
MORE update

The Gear Boxes all in the Chassis. All three of us were shocked at how easy it went in once we got it in the proper position (I used long bolts to help guide it) it almost fell into place. A little rubber hammer work and the tranny mount bolts dropped into the cross member.

And My son got fascinated on the Master Cylinder problem which once the Drive train was basically bolted down in place became even worse then it had been with only the engine in place. He looked at canting the MC this way and that (I told him that would cost fluid volume) and then he came up with what looks like the least expensive way to solve the problem. I am going to move the MC forward about an inch turn the Banjo fittings straight down and that should give me enough clearance to make it fit.

I'm going to make a one piece spacer shaped just like the mounting surface of the master cylinder to act as the spacer. This way I do not have to rebuild my actual mount. I so over built the mount it will easily handle the 1" extension.

The cost I have to rebuild a small section of the Heat Shield and skid plate I made for under the MC to extend it. Easy Peasy. AND I have to make a longer pushrod for the MC. Since I made the last one should not be a problem EXCEPT MY LATHE CHUCK KEY HAS DISAPPEARED!!!! that will take a couple hours or so.

I have the MC pushed so far forward I may be able to top it off reaching over the fender! it was already moved about an inch forward from what a bolt in kit would have had it.

The best part is I should suffer no effects on the fancy Brake and Clutch Linkage setup I built.

I'll get some stuff cleaned up tomorrow and snap some photos of the Drive Train (minus prop shafts) installed in the Chassis.

FUN DAY. I now have lots of stuff to play with and bolt on and and and.

Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2018 at 5:04pm
OK this mornings Willys Porn a couple shots of my chassis.


OK in this one you can see the silly warranty stickers on the side of the Toyota Starter I am using. They can not be pulled off or the warranty is no good. I'm thinking a carefully cut piece of 2" wide electrical tape might be in their future. You can also see how I raised the Oil filter up almost 3"


This one has a good view of the start of my throttle linkage. I used a block of Micarta and a 3/8" bolt for the pivot. The micarta is very slick so doesn't need any lube which would only attract dirt etc. Also with the little port I have in my firewall I can access this to service it if ever needed.


I got the New Pushrod for the Master Cylinder finished just before lunch. I am working on the spacer block (cutting 3" thick Aluminum is a PITA cutting from a 3" square block I have to get the 1" thick piece I need for the spacer.

As I had the Brake linkage all tuned when I first built it I figured since I am moving the MC forward 1" I should retain the adjustments if I just make the Push Rod 1" longer. Nothing else is changing. Might have to fine tune it but it should be damn close.

Wasn't sure how tight to make the Retention cable so I made it pretty tight enough to barely allow any deflection when I pulled down on it with some weight.

Now to tighten down the motor mounts.

More later



Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2018 at 6:17pm
Wow! Looks awesome already!
46 CJ2A rockcrawler
46 CJ2A resto-mod
51 Bantam-ish trailer
50-ish Sterling trailer
15 Grand (Mrs Nofender)
19 Hemi Ram (parts hauler)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2018 at 6:21pm
Its all just paint LOL
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jan. 2019 at 9:08pm
OK so I spent today going over all the nuts and bolts from putting the gear boxes behind the engine. Found a stripped Starter bolt hole I have to figure out how I want to fix it.

I got the Spacer my son came up with installed between the mount and Master Cylinder
I got the mount all tightened down. I then got to installing the Fancy no play pedal shaft and linkage (still a little to do on it)

Played Show and Tell with my next door neighbor he's really into watching CHUG come together.

I broke down the Engine stand CHUG's engine was on and got it stowed away I did the same with my WAY TO HEAVY Cherry picker. I then moved CHUG's Chassis into a better position for the next steps.

Here is the spacer I made from My sons Idea 1" thick Aluminum Had to drill the 1.75" hole with the lathe and mill as my larger hole fixture for the mill requires a 1" pilot hole and my 1" drill bit is currently FUBARed.


And how its installed moving the Front Brake Banjo connection completely out of the way of the Bell Housing.



I was a little worried about the spacer not being rigid enough. But I had the neighbor watch the chassis while I tried to wiggle the MC and he said every movement I made was instantly transmitted to the chassis he could detect NO wiggle. And it does seam to be very rigid to the mount.
More photos tomorrow


Edited by Mark W. - 01 Jan. 2019 at 9:10pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berettajeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan. 2019 at 10:16am
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

Played Show and Tell with my next door neighbor he's really into watching CHUG come together.


 He is not the only one Mark! He is just lucky enough to see it in person as you build it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan. 2019 at 12:17pm
Originally posted by berettajeep berettajeep wrote:

Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

Played Show and Tell with my next door neighbor he's really into watching CHUG come together.


 He is not the only one Mark! He is just lucky enough to see it in person as you build it.


Well one of these days you'll have to wander into the Valley and get the Grand tour.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan. 2019 at 12:04am
OK update but no photos.

I spent almost the whole day working on Header design. And I think I have it. I'm currently very happy with the top half of the Primaries (from the Header Flange to about the level of the oil pump) I also came up with a very workable design for the bottom of the Primaries (from the oil pump through the transition to the pipe headed for the back. I'm going from 4) pipes in a line (parallel to the engine) to 4) pipes in a square configuration (think of a 3" spare pipe with rounded corners) The next step is to figure out how to get these four pipes up as tight to the Tranny cross member as possible (without touching) and to figure out a little over a 4.125" difference in tubing length. Before they merge into 2) 1.5" D to 1.75" D cones. And then about 20" of 1.75" tube and the last collector cone 2) 1.75's into a single 2.25" Tail pipe. Then the easy part up over the Axle a hard right into the Muffler and then a 45 to the tail pipe and out pretty much in the stock location.

I know I am going to loose a little ground clearance (unless I decide to go crazy and transition the pipe back to 4) pipes side by side as they go under the cross member. And I am not sure thats a great idea.

The biggest problem is I can only design and model this thing in sections.

I have actually made 8) 2.5" center line radius wood elbows with the bandsaw and my belt grinders and then using under sink PVC pipe (only thing I could find exactly 1.5" OD) I have made the top section and the section below the Oil pump. I at leas now know what I have to order to get started. There is going to be a bunch more welding then I had hoped.

And I keep thinking I want to split the header at the Oil pump so I can remove just the top half for things like adjusting the valves. So I have to make a Pair of flanges and figure out how to keep them from leaking.

Would be very advantageous so I think I will go to the trouble.

I have the steel for my Main flange Pattern and the first flange ordered. I want to make a drill jig so I can reproduce the flange in case someone else wants one.

So far I have the whole thing designed from 2.5" CLR bends (some will be 180 degrees and most will be 90 degrees both with legs) and then straight 1.5" OD 16ga pipe.

WAITING ON STUFF I ORDERED TO COME IN.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan. 2019 at 2:54am
OK I got the header splitting flanges designed. And I ordered a new 1" drill bit and a pair of the 1.5" inserts for my large hole cutting fixture on the milling machine. SO I can drill all the 1.5" D holes to make this thing. WOW only $127 w/ shipping.

Anyone else want to design and build headers??? I must be nuts.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2019 at 7:52pm
HOT DAMN 4 days of playing with plastic tubes, carved wood elbows protractors, compass's, a calculator 25 pages of graph drawing paper a whole package of colored ink pens and I think I have a solid working design for my 134L or F Tri Y design header.

The 4) primary tubes will end up some where between 48 and 54" right in the ballpark  (I think the straight sections I can't accurately measure until I have the spaghetti looking sections in place) I managed to get no more then a .630" difference in the tube length. So if I estimate a length of 52" for the primaries I came with in 1.26% of perfect. And that's way better then I had hoped.

The Secondary's (the pipes after the 2) cone collectors 1.5" to 1.75") will be around 30" long at which point the they will go into a 3rd cone collector and become as single 2.25" Tail pipe. This will make a curve over the rear axle then a 90 and the Muffler and then out the other side to exit close to the original exit point between the Right rear tire and the frame.

I need to do some more bookkeeping type stuff to figure out what bends to order but in a week I could be whining about my tubing welding skills.


One of the guys asked about photos of the Magnetic Drain Plugs I made so here they are.


The Plug for the Transfercase drain is still gluing. I used a 1/2NPT to 3/8 NPT  hex head bushing to gain some distance from the Gears and then used a 3/8" NPT cored plug which I had to ream out to just over .500" for the 1/2" x 1" 16lb pull magnet to fit down into it. The magnet JB Welded in place sticks about 3/16" past the rim of the 1/2 NPT bushing. Hopefully thats far enough away from the Gears to not cause any trouble. I'll measure it once the JB Weld is set up to make sure. If not I will go to one of the smaller magnets and just sink it down like I did on the Plug on the left in the above photo.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2019 at 7:56pm
OH a post Script one of the guys asked why not use the Steel Drain plugs that way if the Glue gave up they would still stick to the Steel.

I think the best answer is once the Brass plug has been removed from the Case all I have to do is clean the metal off the magnet. If the Plug was steel I would be chasing the metal dust or what ever off the magnet then the plug then the magnet etc.

Plus I like the way a Brass plug seals better then Steel. Less likely to F up the pan or case threads then with a Steel plug.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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