Forum Home Forum Home > CJ-2A Discussion Area > Your Jeep Project
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - A little project update on Chug A Lug
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

A little project update on Chug A Lug

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1 7071727374 82>
Author
Message
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4586
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 4:29pm
OH lord save me now I just ordered like $300.00 in tubing and collectors to build this thing.

Sensitive ears should not be near my shop once I start cutting and tacking this together. But with some luck in a week I should have a Header.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4586
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 8:37pm
OK I have a workable drill jig for my header flange its not perfect but it will make a better one from steel. I made a MDF prototype off of it this morning and while its a tight fit around a couple of the manifold studs. All that is fixable on the steel version.

I then made a drill guide for the other end of the primary tubes where the four tubes have to come together in a straight line. They will then join with the second have of the long primary tubes heading to the first pair of 2 into 1 collectors. These are two plates 3/8" T x 2" W x 7.25" L with 8) 1/4"-28T socket head bolts holding them together.  They will sit just below the oil pump.

This way I can take the top section of the header out to get at the valves for adjustment.

I also ordered some where around $300 of 180 and 90 degree 1.5" OD 16ga tubing bends from some place in CA I never heard of cause they were the best price and when your buying this many price is important. I also ordered the 2-1 collectors and some straight tubing.

And lastly I got a couple of blanks made for the flanges at the bottom of the primary's. I'll drill the 8 bolt holes tomorrow thread one side and then start drilling the holes for the tubes. Hopefully the tubing will show up in a day or two.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Unkamonkey View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 23 Mar. 2016
Location: Greeley CO
Status: Offline
Points: 2069
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 8:58pm
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

OH lord save me now I just ordered like $300.00 in tubing and collectors to build this thing.

Sensitive ears should not be near my shop once I start cutting and tacking this together. But with some luck in a week I should have a Header.

Cuss all you want to, I can't hear you from here. An old neighbor was a submarine mechanic during WWII. He could do a good job of a curse and I could match him. I curse at myself but then I start laughing at myself. Sort of takes the moment away.
uncamonkey
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4586
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan. 2019 at 11:02pm
SO today I made the Flanges that will join the top and bottom halves of my primary tubes. I started with this piece of 3/8" I got from who knows where.


I then spent about half of yesterday making a drill jig to position the holes I would be drilling so I could make more then one set of flanges (never know someone might want a set some day)

I then made the blanks and got them ready to be drilled and cleaned up.

This morning with Drill jig and blanks in hand I started right in on drilling threading and more drilling then countersinking then more drilling. Then a bunch of time making these perfectly flat (I have a marble flat surface and using sand paper on it I did just that.

So after about 6 hours of work this is what I ended up with shown here with the two flanges assembled. It has about a 220 grit or coating ready finish grade. I'll be using Stainless Socket head bolts when actually assembled as part of the header.


And the side view of the same


And the two flanges separated showing the counter sink that will end up being a 3/32" x 1/8" groove to weld into as I weld the 1.5" OD 16 ga. tubing that will be the primary or down tubes. I figured the channel all around the tubing would give me a real nice clean way to weld them to the tubes. As well as not having to worry about one tube blocking the next being welded where they are only 1/4" apart. The gasket surface will be narrow about 1/4" all around the tubes, But I am using Mr Gasket White Header gasket material and I have had excellent results with it on other header gaskets I have made from it. And with 10) 1/4"-20T bolts holding the 3/8" T flanges together I think I will be good.


Once welded up I will then go to the huge PITA of honing the assembled tubes and flanges perfectly flat. I will rough them in with my belt grinder I hope they don't end up to heavy. Once close I will switch to either a brand new course sharpening stone or a hard flat sanding block and metal cutting wet dry sand paper. I'll take the mating surface to 220 grit. Hopefully they won't be to twisted up from welding. I plan on doing it in a zillion little tacks to keep the temp as low as possible. We'll see!

And this is the approx position of this piece of the header. It may end up on a slight angle I will need to find room for the 90 degree curves just below the flanges so I might end up having to angle it a little. I made allowances for this in my design.


I have another section of the MC heat shield that will go to the front of the MC and I am seriously considering using a heat wrap on this section of the Header. There will also be an Aluminum heat shield between the header pipes and the oil pump no reason to warm up the oil.

MY Exhaust tube bends all 8) 180's and 14) 90's should show up tomorrow or the next day. I already have some Straight tubing waiting for me at NAPA so I should have all the materials to start cutting and cussing pretty soon. The Cone collectors should also be here yet this week.

I have possibly two more sets of flanges to make both will be just two pipes depending on where I need to break the Primary pipes as they snake around the Tranny cross member headed to the first 2 into 1 collectors. And then I will also have to make a single tube flange for the last 2 into 1 collector where it joins the Tail pipe.

That one will be a little more fun to make as I will do that on the lathe. Its going to be again 3/8" thick material with a single 2.25" ID and 3" OD with I think 6) 1/4"-20T bolts around it holding it together.

More on that later.




Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4586
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan. 2019 at 7:43pm
Screwed up day had to mess with the people at unemployment. Gee's you would think it was their money. Not my bosses he pays into the fund.

OK enough of that. SO I converted my Micarta Drill jig for the Main Header Flange to steel. Then I used it to drill the pilot holes for my first actual Flange.

It came out pretty dang accurate. The 5) Manifold studs in the center all fit real nice using just 25/64" holes (only 1/64" larger then the actual studs) When I went to drill the outer two Holes I went up to 13/32" figuring it would be easier to go up a 1/64th from the pilot hole then if I had to make the hole larger from 25/64ths. And I ran into a little problem with the most forward manifold stud not wanting to slip into the hole. SO I fiddle farted around a little trying to move the hole a few thousands with a mill end. And in the end I just went ahead and drilled it out to 27/64ths and it still didn't want to fit. I then did what I should have done in the first place and swapped the Top Center Stud with the one that was hangin up. Turns out the 3) short studs I bought are not perfectly true. SO I guess another trip to the hardware store is in order. Anyhow I fits up real nice now.


Tomorrow I will drill the Port holes. It didn't occure to me until this morning that while the Exhaust Port holes all need to be drilled to 1.5" to allow for the Header tubing to pass through. The Intake ports are a different matter. They should be drilled to 1.375" the diameter of the intake ports.

WELL I don't have a 1.375" Spade bit for my APT large hole drilling tool and at $44.00 + shipping I'm not going to buy one. SO I figured HEY I can make an insert from Exhaust tubing that will fit in a 1.5" ID hole and give me an easy way to carefully match the Intake manifold Runner exactly to the Port in the Block. I can use a sanding drum on a Dremel and make the transition smooth from one to the other without risking metal dust in the intake port. Once I get it in place a single tack weld can hold it. Saved me a bunch of money and makes the fit better.

I stopped buy NAPA and picked up the 1.5" OD 16ga straight tubing. MAN am I going to have a lot of that left over LOL had to buy 10 ft.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4586
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan. 2019 at 1:55pm
YAHOO no matter how it actually came out I have a Header Flange. Actually I think it came out pretty good but I need to cut some short sections of straight tubing to double check.

Here are some photos the First is cutting the Ports for Cylinders #2 and #3


And then a shot with all the Exhaust Ports cut


As they were all on the same centerline I was able to slide the piece back and forth in the vise and only had to drop my center finder into the pilot hole to get each hole lined up. A very mechanical way of using something like a milling machine but my machine is actually a huge Mill Drill and well past worn out. I've had it since 1987. Time for a new Lead nut and some adjustments.

Here is the back side of the Flange with all the Ports cut. You will notice the intake Ports have no relief cut as I won't be welding any tubing into them. Just slipping in a 3/8" long piece of 1.5" OD tubing as a spacer to make up for the diameter difference between my bit and the Port size.


I will have a little file work to do as some of my welding will most likely interfere with the two end stud holes. No big deal.

And finally the roughed out Header Flange mounted on the Block. I'm going to round the corners but leave it pretty much the full 3" wide I figure the little extra material will help keep it flat when I weld. And I can't really come up with a cut out shape I like anyway.


Also UPS dropped off the 2 into 1 cones I ordered from Cone Engineering. While I knew the measurements on these when I ordered them I am still amazed at how small they are perfect for my limited space requirements. Also shown are the Welding jigs I got to help me get the tubes aligned as they enter or leave the Cones.


So tomorrow the 40lb box of tubing bends is supposed to arrive. Once they are here I have a tubing cutting jig I am going to make that will allow me to cut any angle of curve I need from the bends. I'll be using my little 4x6" horizontal/vertical bandsaw. I plan on making the whole header using masking tape to hold the parts and pieces together and once I know everything fits together I will come back and tack everything together.

I wish I knew how to and had the equipment to TIG weld this or the funds to have it done but my goobery MIG welds will have to do. I have thought I would take the first section of the header once tacked together to the guy who welded up the Intake manifold for me and get an estimate on cost. That way at least the part everyone would see will look nice. Might not be to expensive.

SO this afternoon I think I will make the Flange pair to connect the 2.25" end of the last cone to the Tail pipe.


Edited by Mark W. - 17 Jan. 2019 at 1:58pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4586
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan. 2019 at 10:33pm
And here is this afternoons project all ready to go. Shown here on the 2-1 collector that will join the two secondary pipes together and exit into the 2.25" D tail pipe.


And the other end showing off my big screw up. The little Weld channel you see there should be flipped around. Since I kind of free drilled the holes I can't flip the part around once I pounded the big center punch marks in it. SO I weld the back half of the flange on the Tail pipe on the outside of the joint. you guys promise not to giggle and point that out if you see me at a car or jeep show OK?


Side view


Inside view, I'll grind the flanges perfectly flat after I weld them this is within like .005-.010 of flat. Good enough for now as I am sure they will warp all up when I goobery weld them together.



I ordered off eBay some of the fancy White Mr. Gasket header gasket material so I now have enough to make at least two sets of gaskets. Going to have to get some more.

Be fun making the gaskets I can actually use my Drill Jig to help make then real accurate.

I will most likely still need to make 2 pair of Flanges that join 2) of the 1.5" pipes some where around the Tranny cross member so I can remove it since the Primary pipes are going to wrap around the Crossmember (one pair over the other pair under.




Edited by Mark W. - 17 Jan. 2019 at 10:35pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Unkamonkey View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 23 Mar. 2016
Location: Greeley CO
Status: Offline
Points: 2069
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan. 2019 at 11:15pm
You are doing some very nice work. I just hope it gives you something back for the effort. You may consider other ways of getting welds done. My neighbor used to do the work studies at a local HS, (Special ED). and he got students in to learn a trade. He needed some TIG welding done on his boat so off he went to the local community college to have them weld the bow rail. I looked at it when he got it home and it was frigging perfect welding.
uncamonkey
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4586
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan. 2019 at 11:55pm
I might look into this. I might also revisit the guy who said he would do my frame welding and then never got around to it. Or just be me and do it with the mig and my grinding skills lol.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Unkamonkey View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 23 Mar. 2016
Location: Greeley CO
Status: Offline
Points: 2069
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan. 2019 at 12:58am
Or do something silly and learn better welding skills or get a proper welder.

Nothing to brag about but I can weld. If you ask me "Yeop I can stick a couple pieces of metal together").

I did have a welding inspector ask if I wanted a welding job on a project. Nope, rather work with wood.
uncamonkey
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4586
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan. 2019 at 1:04am
Oh I have a very nice welder. I have a Lincoln weld pak 140 which is very suited to the job of welding 16ga exhaust pipe.

Its my lack of practice (though I did weld up my whole Tub and a bunch of other stuff already) But really pretty TIG welds look real nice if they are going to be front and center like the 8 welds or so that will be just below the intake manifold. The rest of the welds will all be out of sight and just need to be strong and sealed that I can easily do.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4586
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan. 2019 at 2:16pm
He he he My header puzzle has arrived. And I couldn't be happier. Upon checking the fit to my "holes" these will be a near press fit. Couldn't fit better if they had had my dimensions. Will make the whole process so much easier. The straight pipe you see is 1 5/8" OD will be cut up to make joint collars. where not visible or obvious I plan to slip a 1/2" long collar over each joint and weld the edges of that so no but welds. I did that on the wifes 67 mustang exhaust and it worked very nicely. And made for super strong joints. I also have a 10ft length of 1.5" OD straight tubing for anything not covered by a leg on a bend. I don't expect to use much of it.


Sure looks like a lot of tubing doesn't it? Once I cut it all up about half the mass will be scrap. In many cases I will only be using a inch or less past a bend. And a number of them get cut down to as much as a 25 degree bend.

I will have to buy a few 1.75" OD Bends to get the Secondary tubes to line up on the last collector and then for the Tail pipe I think I will need to buy a couple 180's that will get cut down to go over the Axle and then make a 90 into the muffler and an approx 30 degree coming out of the muffler so the tail pipe exits in the stock location.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
LuzonRed47 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 11 Apr. 2007
Location: Plymouth, MI
Status: Offline
Points: 390
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LuzonRed47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan. 2019 at 2:35pm
Mark, can't wait to see your "bundle of snakes" come together! Masterful design and fab work you're doing!
CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie"
ACM #124334
1953 Strick M100 trailer
Serial #18253
Back to Top
Charles View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 06 Jan. 2012
Location: Minot ND
Status: Offline
Points: 41
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Charles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan. 2019 at 4:26pm
Wow, nice so how much are you charging for Header flanges.  I know I would like one.  sure looks nice.  looking forward to seeing the finished headers. 
Charlie
46 CJ2A 26063
46 CJ2A 19760
Back to Top
Craig M View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 29 Nov. 2018
Location: Sully IA
Status: Offline
Points: 25
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Craig M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan. 2019 at 8:14pm
I would also be interested in a header flange, looking great
Snojet slice & dice on the ice
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4586
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan. 2019 at 8:24pm
OK Guys Making header Flanges is something I am thinking about. BUT I want to make sure what I have designed and made works. SO give me a couple weeks (at the most) to get this Header put together and I will sit down and figure out how to go about making some for other people and how much that would cost.

I will tell you right up front that the only way I see it workable is if I am making like 5 of them at a time. This way I can cut way down on setup time. And since everything I do on the "Mill" is manual being able to not have to reset will make a huge difference.

When I am ready I will add a thread to the Member Created Parts forum and we can all go from there. I spent 14 years making my living creating hand made knives. SO I know a whole lot more then I want to about a hobby business. So I want to make sure all my DUCKS are in a row before things start.

OK commercial announcement over LOL.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4586
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan. 2019 at 8:46pm
OK had crap to do today big shopping trip with the wife and more time on the phone with my favorite people at unemployment. So I only had a little time to work today.

SO after working on my brake system and making a larger heat shield for the Roll control and Proportioning Valve (wanted to shield more of the wiring and the brake lines leading into and out of them) And opening up my big box of tubes. I got to work on an adjustable cutting jig to make my angled cuts in the tubing. I wanted a way to make these cuts repeatable and real close to dead on accurate.

The other night I was on the H.A.M.B. hot rod discussion page/forum/site and stumbled across a cutting jig one of the guys there gave up real good details on how to make. I read through it and figured the idea was pretty good would cost me nothing I'm not tripping over in the shop already so I made one (its of course a little different then his. But I'm pretty sure it will work. I will be using it with my 4x6" Horizontal/Vertical Bandsaw which is almost always in the Vertical position (like a wood cutting bandsaw) I use Olson Bi Metal Blades either 14 or 18tooth. I've cut every thing from wood,synthetic's, mild Steel, Hi Carbon Tool Steel and Titanium with this thing. I used to sit on the back of the thing and cut out 20+ Hunting knife blanks at a sitting.

SO anyway here's some photos of the thing I can up with. Its only designed to work with 1.5" OD tubing. If I end up having to make a bunch of cuts in the 1.75" OD tubing I'll make another one. OR depending I might be able to use a spacer.

I know stop typing show the photo's

Ok first photo shows the Jig set to cut a 45 degree on a 180 degree bend. I sight through the little slot in the metal cutting guide to find the angle marked off below it. Lock it all down and then push the bandsaw blade into the slot and make the cut. Should the slot get damaged it can be replaced as can the protractor.


This photo is just a little easier to see how the slot cutting guide looks


And showing it with a 90 degree bend.


And this one shows how the Jig can be used with a spacer so if I need a 1" past the 90 degree curve to make it to the next joint I can just place a measured spacer between the tubing and the Jig shown here by one of my 1-2-3 blocks I might end up making the base layer of the Jig a little bigger to make using spacers easier and a LOT of my design relies on the short legs on either side of a bend.  For instance the first bend coming out of the Header flange on my design has to be straight for 7/8" 3/8" inside the Flange then 1/2" before the 90 degree turn then a straight section for 2 1/2" before the tubing makes a 45 out away from the block and then a 45 back straight down to the little 4 hole flange I showed you above.


Gonna be doing some cutting tomorrow.

Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4586
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan. 2019 at 8:35pm
SO this is what I been working towards.


The top section of the Header is roughed out. I have the various pieces held together with masking tape for now. I just needed to make sure my design would end up where I wanted it. Half way between the oil pump and the frame. Now I need to work out exactly where the little 4 in line flange will sit and if I will angle it or run with it flat. I have to work out the next little night mare the 90 degree bends that will take this from 4 in line longitudinally and turn it into 2 runs of 2 tubes one headed under the MC the other headed to the inside of the MC to then travel up over the tranny cross-member.

And here is a side view where you can see how the line of primary tubes will fit between the Oil pump and frame. (the rubber bands and strips of aluminum are just to keep them in line as nothings even tack welded yet.


The little Cutting Jig I made is working well. Of course I have to deal with the saw kerf removing about .030" off each end of a cut so a 45 degree bend ends up slightly shorter then it should. But some careful welding will fix that.




Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1 7071727374 82>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.01
Copyright ©2001-2018 Web Wiz Ltd.