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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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1988YJ7 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1988YJ7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb. 2019 at 11:57pm
So Mark, did you take a foreign language brake class since you're now cussing in English? And did that require some kind of separate certification?
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb. 2019 at 12:33am
No the wife said I should stop cussing as the grand daughters now just show up as they are old enough to walk here. SO I been cussing in various forms of gibberish. But for this it just didn't seam right so I went back to my roots.

Growing up in the berry and bean fields picking crops with winos and hobos then a working as a lube mechanic and finally a short stint in the US NAVY has provided me with a very caustic vocabulary when called upon.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb. 2019 at 9:57pm
So you speak "Milspeak"?  The language where every sentence has a subject, a verb, and a mother#&%&er?  I got out of the Navy 41+ years ago and I still find myself trying to tone it down...
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb. 2019 at 1:23pm
OK think I got the E Brake linkage figured out. I sat down and thought long and hard what the most complicated way I could go about doing this and this is what I can up with.

It has about a 3-1 leverage advantage it has the balance bar it allows the cables to remain pretty much straight while being pulled on. Its out of the way of most everything (could be a little farther way from the drive shaft and the exhaust pipe but if it was other things would not line up so well). It's plenty stout. And I can pull on the cable with my bare hand and it easily moves to lock up the rear brakes. Adding the Cane handle and being able to stomp on the brakes as I apply should get a nice solid E Brake lock up. There is a little flex in the Skid plate and the two little Cable Shroud end stops mounted to the Spring Hanger bolts but its very minimal and will only add spring to the pull not to the release.

I'll have to wait to mount the tub before I can come up with a return spring as it will have to mount to the Riser or a small bracket on the Riser (seams like I took one off from there when I scratch built the floor frame work)

Not sure of the adjustment etc that will have to come later. And of course no that I have it all built I have to tear it all apart sand blast it and paint it. Then a dab or two of Lubriplate and reassembly.

I did this by trail and error once I had the basic design ended up making a couple of the Aluminum stand offs and 2 of the long arms. The reason the cables are crossed is simple it was the only way I could get the length correct and have the main arm not interfere with the Transfer Case pan. I used existing holes in the Skid plate for mounting.

The aluminum stand off is threaded 7/16-14 and I used a fully counter sunk Flat head bolt for the pivot. I used valve lapping compound to get the counter sink nice and smooth. The pivot is adjusted by how tight this bolt is tightened then the whole unit is attached to the mounting plate with the nut on the end. This way the bolt is stretched between the Aluminum stand off and the nut making a very effective lock.  On the Balance bar the pivot hole is 3/8" D and the hole in the main lever arm is threaded then the nut on the bottom locks that in place. With the little cable clamps they are threaded and the lock nut on top secures them.



Another view I had to stack a couple washers to keep the cables from chaffing to much.


This view shows the cable clamp I made that is mounted to the rear transmission mounting bolts. It has a 1/4" hex head bolt running in to the cable ferrel hole to act as a clamp. I had to cut the clamping block back some from its original dimension to keep it from touching the cross member didn't want that. Would have caused vibration I think.


Hopefully this will work properly in real life stuff like this is so hard to imagine and invent when half the jeep is not on the other half.

I just ordered the firewall cable bracket from Walcks cause for some reason mine is no where to be found. I have the silly little clamp all painted up and ready to go but the Bracket must have gotten into one of the parts buckets I'll find it when Chug is done and I sell off the unused parts. Always something.




Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb. 2019 at 7:44pm
What a wasted day. I went to 4 different motorcycle shops and two bicycle shops looking for a 90° cable guide to use to set up my cable operated throttle linkage. And either they didn't have what would work, wanted WAY to much for it, or were kind of clueless. I did get an idea of what to looks for so I came home changed what I was searching for on eBay and found what looks to be exactly what I wanted for $8.90 and free shipping. SO I have three of them coming. I want to make up an extra for the pedal throttle in case I break one away from home.

If I had known to look for a Honda throttle cable this morning I could have actually gotten something done today.

OH well it looks like I found what I needed and it will end up making a very simple very functional way to run my two throttles nice and clean looking.

Now I guess I can work on the other parts of the setup (the little clamps and the two levers that will mount to my pivot on the back of the block.

I also finally figured out how I wanted to run the pivot on the back of my DIY made gas pedal. Going to use a male thread rod end. Threaded into the pedal from the back then a simple bar of aluminum to connect to the lever coming down from the Pivot.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb. 2019 at 7:42pm
So for something a little different I have a question for you all.

Can you guess what part of Chug this is going to be?





Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb. 2019 at 7:46pm
I'm going with air cleaner. 
46 CJ2A rockcrawler
46 CJ2A resto-mod
51 Bantam-ish trailer
50-ish Sterling trailer
15 Grand (Mrs Nofender)
19 Hemi Ram (parts hauler)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb. 2019 at 7:51pm
  Big smile a cover for the hole in the hood when you put the F-head in.  LOL  BW
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LuzonRed47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb. 2019 at 9:00pm
Probably just a large pot for the custom-made, PTO-driven, air-actuated, computer-controlled "trail kitchen" set up that you are developing from scratch for Chug.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick G Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb. 2019 at 9:23pm
Chamber pot?

Thunder bucket?
1947 CJ2a #119929    "Gus"
1951 CJ3a #451-GB1-24268   “Some Assembly Required”

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flatfender Ben Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb. 2019 at 9:25pm
Custom fan shroud?
1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb. 2019 at 9:47pm
I knew this would be fun.  nofender got it right off.

Its going to be the cover for my Air cleaner box. I will have CHUG setup with a High Pressure Air intake that pulls air from the top of the area in front of the radiator just under the hood. Then a 1.125" x 5" air duct will carry the air to the enclosed Air cleaner. I am working out a way to select air from the front intake to an intake that will pickup air from right above the #2 and #3 primary tubes on the header like so many 1970's era cars had to provide warm air at start up. And a third position that pickup up air from between the carb and the firewall (for when I do something like slash into water)

The pot is 4mm thick and will be cut down to about 1/2" lower then the underside of the hood. It will sit on a disc of 1/8" aluminum. The air filter will be a 7.5" OD x 3" H K&N with its own aluminum disc top.

Going to come up with some sort of art work to put on it possibly.

I still haven't figured it all out but I have some ideas.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb. 2019 at 11:53am
Well dang it thats disappointing. My New Air Cleaner stock pot showed up and while it is nice and heavy duty 4mm thick. It has fairly deep engraving on the bottom. Which is actually going to be the top of the air cleaner cover. Now I have to figure out how to either grind away a bunch of the bottom/top to get that out or an acceptable way to cover it.

I'll most likely cover it. Looks like a 2 3/4" disk will cover it. Maybe I can turn a mini Moon (like the wheel cover)cover for it and sink a 5/16" flat head bolt in the middle I was planning on the flat head bolt as the hold down anyway this way I just have a say 3/16" thick washer under it.

Always something LOL
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb. 2019 at 12:09pm
LOL I think I have it. I picked up this cereal box give away off eBay a while back when I was working on the design for my horn button. It was way to big for that but I figured I would find something it would work for.

Well I can fit it over a piece of aluminum with the flat head bolt counter sunk into it. And just palm the logo to screw it down tight. Have to see how it looks when I get more work done on the air cleaner.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb. 2019 at 5:18pm
That looks damn cool to me! Good thought! 
46 CJ2A rockcrawler
46 CJ2A resto-mod
51 Bantam-ish trailer
50-ish Sterling trailer
15 Grand (Mrs Nofender)
19 Hemi Ram (parts hauler)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb. 2019 at 9:35pm
So lets call this the Throttle Linkage page:

I decided the easiest way to do the need for a 90° turn/bend was to go with a Cable style throttle. I looked at a couple of ideas and finally settled on a system with two cables one heavier as the main throttle the other with a Racing bicycle grade brake cable connected to my Shifter mounted hand throttle. By using the cables in side by side pivoting cable stops?(I guess that is what they are) with holes through them to allow the cable to pass unhindered. This way which ever cable is pulled on the other cable will stay static and the throttle lever and the "Cable stop" will just pass right over the static cable while the other throttle activates the throttle lever.

Its simple enough I can carry a replacement in a 6x9" envelope. I already have the second set of cable stops almost finished.

Then cable needs to make the 90° turn. So I'm going to run it through a pair of Honda Throttle Cable tubes. On the Main Throttle side this will also be the cable it self.

The main cable then attaches to the top of the Upper lever mounted on the Throttle Pivot. The Hand Throttle will pass into a black Lt Wt sheathing at the Firewall end of the 90° Tube making the cable bend and travel to the Shifter.

Anyway here is the Carb section of the Linkage.





Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2019 at 2:59pm
YEA last night I had a minor break through. I been trying to figure out exactly how to close the Air intake that will bring fresh high pressure air from in front of the radiator and just under the hood to the carb. Obviously this type of an air intake would be problematic in any kind of water crossing or even should I be pushing snow.

I kept trying to find a way to close off the Duct that will carry the air to the Filter can. But if did it this way I also had to find a way to dump the water,etc. out of the duct.

Well Last night it dawned on me I was going about it wrong I needed to prevent the water,etc from ever getting into the duct. SO I took a good look at the air box I made to sit in front of the radiator and sure enough I could easily put the "Damper" on the inside of the air box on the front end of the Air duct. And by using a sliding door it would take up very little volume in the air box.

I will have to figure out just how to control this damper as it has to travel 5" to clear the entrance to the air duct. And thats way to much to ask of a Pull cable set up (Like a choke knob) BUT with a simple 1 to 3 lever in the linkage a 5" travel becomes only a 1.66" travel of the knob. well within the range of a pull knob type control.

I'll have to work out where to hide such a lever (most likely on the underside of the Air Duct.. I can run the cable from the Friewall to right under the Air Cleaner box and out the Air duct keeping the controls pretty clean and out of the way.

Should have some photos tomorrow.

OH and when this air intake is closed I will have the ability to open the Warm Air intake that pulls air from right over top the #2 and #3 Primary tubes. I also figured out how to control this with the Choke cable. SO that the first inch of cable travel opens the warm air intake and the second inch of cable will also close the choke. So one control can do two things.

I would like to figure out an intake to combat dust but I think that ends up as some sort of snorkel and I'm pretty sure that won't be happening on CHUG.

My younger brother bought a 73 CJ-5 one time that had been a Mud racer and it had the air intake routed to up under the dash where a heater would normally fit. But that again isn't in CHUGS future.

Maybe just a foam prefilter wrapped around the K&N filter is the best I can do for Dust.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ggordon49 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2019 at 3:05pm
 LOL
Ship of Theseus - As years go by wooden parts begin to rot and are replaced by new. After a century, all of the parts have been replaced. Is the "restored" ship still the same object as the original?
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