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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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Gil View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 July 2017 at 10:36pm
Looking good,nice work.Thumbs Up

Giles
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 July 2017 at 1:34am
Its not perfect but its close enough I can look the other way LOL!
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 July 2017 at 2:07am
that is just sharp.

I'd say it's going to be a great jeep when you're done, but it's not waiting. It's a great jeep NOW.
Thumbs Up

I'm going back to re-read the tub work...
1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div
6th Infantry Reg
3rd Infantry Bn
Headquarters Company #161

rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 July 2017 at 6:33am
You guys encouragement means a lot to me. I'm hoping that when I get to car show Chug I can score a best engineered trophy. I have a friend who does VW's and took over his oldest daughters bedroom when she moved out to display his dozens and dozend of trophys in. Im not hoping to compete with him just show what I can do. I figure Chug and the
offroad trailer are my last chance to show off my car guy skills so I'm hoping to have it come out pretty nice.


Edited by Mark W. - 17 July 2017 at 6:38am
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 July 2017 at 3:19pm
I'm reading a lot about your use of a phosphate dip prior to priming to kill the rust. What's the product?

I'm getting ready for another round of body work on mine, and this could be the best way to treat the toolbox.

Thanks,
Les

EDIT
How has that Permatex rust preventer treated you?

I used the Napa-branded stuff in the same style bottle as the Permatex. It also turns blue-black and it's latex-based, just like the Permatex. The instructions on the bottle are almost identical.

I've used it on my Dart Sport and my 2A, and everywhere it was used it has eventually peeled off the metal.

I have completely stopped using it because of this. I chalked the problems in the Dart's trunk to my lack of auto body experience - I completely failed to use a metal prep cleaner before I applied the rust preventer.

The was not the case on the jeep. I used the Napa Kleenz-Easy 6383 ($32 a quart!) and it still peeled off about a year after applied and painted over.


Edited by LesBerg - 17 July 2017 at 6:22pm
1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div
6th Infantry Reg
3rd Infantry Bn
Headquarters Company #161

rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 July 2017 at 5:48pm
For smaller parts and up to the whole underside of the floor I been using a Permatex product.

https://www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/body-interior-trim/permatex-rust-treatment/

I been using the spray can it covers a lot of material. On small parts that I can sand blast first I'll degrease the item then sand blast with about 70 mesh silica sand and soak the surface with the permatex stuff once its dry (couple 3 hours) I'll get it wet again and the item ends up looking almost like it was Blued (like a gun finish but satin) It really helps anchor paint.

For a rusty area like the inside of a tool box I think I would first wire brush any loose rust then use the liquid version and soak the area well. Maybe two applications. Then once its dried 24+ hours get a good anti rust paint over top of it. It will turn surface rust BLACK.

I used a different product inside the Tub but didn't like the results as much as the Permatex product so I have gone back to it.

I buy it at the local NAPA. Last time they had a bucket sale (20% off anything that fit in a 5 gallon bucket) I fit the whole bottom of a bucket with cans of this stuff I got my moneys worth on that sale.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 July 2017 at 6:22pm
look up one post - I just updated mine and talked about that stuff

God, I hope you don't have the problems I did.

I'm more interested in the phosphate you mentioned. It sounds similar to parkerizing, but cold.

EDIT
I'm looking at building a very similar rear bumper, but I'm looking at two spare tires, two jerrys, and a folding table on the inside.

Do you think I'd need a beefier bumper-to-frame mounting setup for that kind of weight? I'm thinking to split mine in the middle, opening from both sides. 

Because two spares side-by-side would be wider than the tub, I am planning on overlapping them. One side would have the jerry can on the inside of the frame and a tire on the outside, the other side would be reversed.

Like you, I don't have a draw bar, and have no plans to add one. Mine is a hunting/camping/fishing/DD rig (if it ever sees the road again) and I don't want to compromise my departure angle.

Thanks,
Les


Edited by LesBerg - 17 July 2017 at 6:56pm
1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div
6th Infantry Reg
3rd Infantry Bn
Headquarters Company #161

rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 July 2017 at 7:43pm
I've used the permatex product over the last 25 years and never had anything like a peeling. Its not a coating on the metal but an actual conversion of the material itself.

The Phosphate stuff I used is called Ospho

https://www.amazon.com/Ospho-Skyco-Surface-Prep/dp/B000C02B3W
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 July 2017 at 7:50pm
OK, hold on. I was using the brush on stuff. Let me compare that to the spray stuff you're using.

Checking them both out, they're two completely different products with exactly the same name. Different in performance, chemical composition, application, and how they neutralize rust.

Very good to know. Thank you!



Edited by LesBerg - 17 July 2017 at 7:52pm
1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div
6th Infantry Reg
3rd Infantry Bn
Headquarters Company #161

rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 July 2017 at 1:20am
Well that makes complete sense!

Hopefully the Permatex will work for you.


ex

Edited by Mark W. - 18 July 2017 at 1:22am
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick G Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 July 2017 at 2:08am
Sure is looking good, Mark.  I thought my attention to detail, engineering, aesthetics, and uniformity was excessive.  I think, perhaps, I am bested by the Chug fabricator. Clap

You are inspiring me to post my build.  I think after this summer of Jeeping, I may start on my build post. 
1947 CJ2a #119929
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 50 minutes ago at 11:43am
Holy crap. I am using carriage style bolts for the 4 body mount bolts in the front floor. under tank and in tool box locations. And after spending time on the lathe making a drill guide I attempted to drill the under tank hole from underneath Chug. I managed to somehow angle the silly hole. OK so I drilled a 3/16" pilot hole just for this eventuality. No problem file it to center. OK got that pretty close made another drill jig clamped it to the floor using the Gas tank holes and some long reach C Clamps. And I drill it out to 3/8" Great looks acceptable.

Then I hand file the square shoulders into the top of the mounting hole to anchor the Carriage bolts. MAN did that take a while (with only a 3/4" stroke for the file before it hits the bottom of the Hat Channel) OK great now to bolt it up. AND THE BOLTS I GOT ARE 1/2" to short.

So now I have to go get more bolts reshape the heads on these new bolts and Phosphate treat them and then Epoxy paint.

This body mounting thing is turning into way less fun then I thought...

I swear when I get done with this project I am going to need to buy another shelf to store all the extra nuts and bolts I'm ending up with.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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