Forum Home Forum Home > CJ-2A Discussion Area > Your Jeep Project
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - A little project update on Chug A Lug
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

A little project update on Chug A Lug

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1 81828384>
Author
Message
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4664
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2019 at 11:19pm
I use the nail polish to mark nuts bolts and fittings that are ready for the road. Like GM used to us paint marks.

Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Steelyard Blues View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Oct. 2017
Location: Reno, NV
Status: Offline
Points: 513
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2019 at 11:20pm
Mark,
Like the heater pipe idea. I was looking to do the same when I install my Harrison heater.
 
I'm not a fan of hose clamps either. I tried these for the radiator and some custom heater hoses I had to make for the EFI 347 in my Maverick. I have had them on for a couple years with no issues. Great clean look to the engine compartment:
 
Micah
1947 CJ2A, Body & Frame: 106327, Engine: J109205, Tub and Tailgate: 97077. Originally Luzon Red

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4664
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2019 at 11:24pm
Interesting I had never seen those types of heat shrink clamps. I'm so worried about service out in the boonies I would have to look into these more before I thought about using them.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
LuzonRed47 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 11 Apr. 2007
Location: Plymouth, MI
Status: Offline
Points: 429
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LuzonRed47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2019 at 8:11am
Mark's CHUG project should be a Four Wheeler or JP Magazine cover story. This is the space shuttle of flatfender restos.
CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie"
ACM #124334
1953 Strick M100 trailer
Serial #18253
Back to Top
ggordon49 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 30 June 2017
Location: Connecticut
Status: Offline
Points: 718
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ggordon49 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2019 at 9:02am
I appreciate your attention to details, including the SS button head hex drive screws and the recessed flat heads.... You must have acquired quite a collection of hardware over the years! LOL Thumbs Up
Ship of Theseus - As years go by wooden parts begin to rot and are replaced by new. After a century, all of the parts have been replaced. Is the "restored" ship still the same object as the original?
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4664
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2019 at 10:32am
I've spent a small fortune on fasteners building CHUG. Between Stainless Steel and Grade 8's and even some Grade 10.9 Metric for the Roll Bar mounts because there are no Grade 8 or better Button heads available. And yes I have a huge pile of nuts and bolts mostly in soup cans on a special shelf I made from them.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4664
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2019 at 10:35am
As to JP magazine. Let wait until its done to worry about that. I had a bunch of the handmade knifes I used to make for a living (MADE MY LAST KNIFE IN 1996) in Magazines and in books. Even 4 Newspaper articles. But an article on CHUG would be fun. At least this time I would know ahead of time it wasn't going to make me rich LOL.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4664
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2019 at 4:33pm
So this is what happens when you just can't leave something alone.

The Water pump

1. Sand the inlet neck completely smooth to remove all flashing and mold rough surface.
2. Grind a slight bevel on the inside edge of the Hose Neck to help water flow.
3. Spend like 4 hours turning an Aluminum cap to finish off the face of the pulley since there will be no fan attached to it.
4. Mask off and Paint the pulley Satin Black for a nice contrast to the Aluminum cap.
5. Trip to hardware store cause with 50K nuts and bolts around here I still had to buy 4) flat head bolts to hold the cap on.
6. Mask off and paint the Housing with Eastwoods Alumacast paint to make it look like I bought an aluminum water pump.
7. Install a fancy Red Anodized plug in the by pass hole, and install the Polished Aluminum hose barb.


8. Allow to set for a day or so to let the paint harden up before scrapping the gasket surface on the pump and Block to clean metal.

9. Install pump with Gray RTV.

SO this is what my Water Pump looks like now.



About the only functional thing I can think of for the Aluminum cap is that since it's about 4.25" in D should some how the Water Pump Pulley ever hit the motor on the Electric Fan the force will be spread over a larger area then the Pulley alone LOL.  Smoothing the Hose Neck will make it much easier to get a good seal on the Hose.  The cap only weighs a couple oz. being about 1/8" thick.


SO basically instead of it taking like 20 min to install my water pump I have a full day into it. I am so nuts.


Edited by Mark W. - 04 May 2019 at 5:28pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4664
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2019 at 4:36pm
OH by the way no idea about the durability of the Eastwood Alumacast paint but it goes on very nicely and looks really good so far. Not cheap especially if buying it alone. Like $25.00 with the shipping. I think I will try it on my intake manifold as well since its finish got fubared when I modified it.

Certainly plenty of paint in the can and one of the best nozzles I have seen yet on a spray can.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4664
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2019 at 7:24pm
OK so you know the details but I thought I would show off the pump installed.


You can also get another view of the Heater Pipe Oil Fill tube clamp I made from this angle.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
LuzonRed47 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 11 Apr. 2007
Location: Plymouth, MI
Status: Offline
Points: 429
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LuzonRed47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2019 at 10:06pm
CHUG's engine looks like it came out of a Penske IndyCar....
CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie"
ACM #124334
1953 Strick M100 trailer
Serial #18253
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4664
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2019 at 10:28pm
Everything but the 500 hp from a 4 banger LOL

Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Ol' Unreliable View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 25 Sep. 2016
Location: CO Springs CO
Status: Offline
Points: 2957
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2019 at 10:49pm
You'll produce more HP than an Indy car from the first year or two of the race...  Smile
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4664
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2019 at 10:55pm
Good point I'll run with that.


I'm hoping to put an additional 20HP on the ground. Who knows once its all tuned and broken in I'll run it up to Grumpy's and spend a stupid amount of money (like $225.00) to put it on his chassis dyno for an hour and see what I can come up with.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4664
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2019 at 5:35pm
Been working on my Tach and Vac gauge dash still need to paint it going to be Satin Black waiting for the rest of the indicator lights to show up
I can raise and lower the cluster for the best view but that will have to wait for the column to be installed and a seat. More photos of this later.New sub dash


The little top shield shown in this photo is made from some 2" .065 wall aluminum angle I had. Its actually held in place by the top 4) Indicator lights as they all have threaded barrels so I am using them like nuts and bolts LOL


Nice side view I wanted to try to keep it as clean as possible. I think once I paint up the Ididit Steering column and then the mounting clamp and get a nice coat of Satin Black on the actual Sub Dash and that little top Shield it will look pretty nice.

Hope theres room with my Defroster duct running up the dash right above the column.


In that last photo you can see the rest of the Gauges all laid out while I figured out the lighting wiring harness and a couple other things. You if you look close also notice the Micarta Blocks taking the place of them damn tiny nuts they expect you to fit on the ends of the mount screws to hold the gauges in place. These will be much easier for my beat up hands to thread on.

And finally a nice right side view LOL you can see where I taped the fancy horn button on the Steering wheel. I wanted it in the photo but didn't want to do all that was required to put the horn kit on at this time.


Oh I guess I should tell you what the indicator lights are for.

(Left Turn Green)   (Brights Blue)   (Right Turn Green)
                             (Red Line Red)                            
                          (Fog Lights Amber)
                         (Backup Lights Blue)
      (Line Locks Red)              (Air Compressor Red)

You can't see it in any of the photos but there is a small aluminum angle 1/8" thick that fits between the top of the mounting clamp and the back of the gauge mounting plate. Its also held in place by the bottom 4) indicator lights and a couple of 1/4-20t button heads down into the clamp. This way I figured I could easily rigid up the gauge mounting plate. So it doesn't flex and lead to damage.



Turns out that while the last three days back to work felt like they were going to kill me and my left leg from slipping the clutch for HOURS while pacing the grinding machine left my leg aching a LOT. We ran out of work so I get Thurs through Mon evening off at which time I have night paving Mon though Fri for two weeks. While I hate the short hours and the lack of sleep that always means.

It also means I will be able to get in maybe 4 hours a day of work on Chug plus the Weekend. SO I am going to go ahead and add the two more coats of paint to the exterior of Chug I figured would be the best way to deal with the thin spots.

SO its not looking to bad, I would have much rather spent Memorial Weekend putting the Tub on the Chassis but thats only a one day job.

Also my Drivers bonus came in so the Willys Account is flush again. Time to order some Paint and possibly the New rear drive shaft.





Edited by Mark W. - 09 May 2019 at 6:53pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4664
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2019 at 7:45pm
SO I redid the Air Compressor mount. After I read the instructions and realized it was important to have the fuse up stream of the relay. This is the way it will be now. The Lead hose will reach the little distribution manifold on the firewall and I will find somewhere close to the top of the Battery to mount the intake air filter. I ended up with what will be less then a 14" wire run on the positive side and about 8" on the ground.


Now I am off to go night paving for the next two weeks so what little time I have during the day I am going to finish up little things left over from big projects like painting things.

I also have to get ready to paint the next two coats of color on the outside of the Tub Hood Fenders Windshield.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4664
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2019 at 7:49pm
Little projects with working nights. Today I made new locator bolts for the Bell housing. I ordered up some .375" O1 Tool steel rod cut it to 4.25" and threaded both ends for about 3/4" I then pounded out the Stainless Steel tubing and 5/16" Bolts I had in there and replaced with the O1 threaded rods. Used Double Nuts on both ends of the rods. All nice and done now. Well until I go to attach one of the Banjo Fittings on the Master Cylinder and it turns out to be to close to the Double Nut. 

Yesterday I got my vintage 4" fog lights all ready to mount. I installed eye brows, then cut the ground wire off its attachment and added about 4ft of 14ga to both soldered and heat shrink tubed the joints. I then reamed the Mounting bolts out so that a piece of nice Red and Black Techflex braided nylon wire covering would fit through it with the two 14 ga wires. All ready to mount to my Fog Light Bar when the time comes.

Day before that I got my Fog Light Bar all spiffed up and a couple pieces painted and the rest coated with clear so the aluminum doesn't tarnish so fast.

I'm going to drill two 3/8" holes in the bottom face of the grill put in grommets directly behind where the lights mount so I have real short cable exposed.

I also mounted 2) Amber clearance light LEDs into the Micarta plugs on the end of the Aluminum tube the Fog lights mount to this will give me tiny side maker lights. I'm going to add Micarta Plugs to the ends of my Rear Cross Member as well and do the same with a pair of Red ones. They will come on with the Park/Tail Lights


Edited by Mark W. - 15 May 2019 at 7:57pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 4664
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2019 at 8:29pm
WOW total PITA.

Ok thats out of the way. My Night paving has turned into a little bit of a Willys shop time bonus. As we worked 43 hours in 4 nights and the outfit we are rented out to decided not to pave Fri night. So once I got up this morning (right before noon) I have until 4:00pm Monday to myself.

This afternoon I started to resand the Tub so I can put a couple more coats of Pacific Blue on it. I'm doing the Dash and the Exterior of the Tub. Not the firewall or any interior surfaces. I got the Dash and Cowl sanded down to 700 grit using my P grit 1200 german paper. I also picked up a Ultra Fine Gray Scotch Bright pad from NAPA that works pretty good on curved surfaces and in places like the rain gutter. (it says its for scuffing up color and clear coats) I of course found more thin spots but I plan on putting at least 2 Full Coats if not Three on the Tub. I have a full gallon of color so that makes up like 190 ounces of material once the Activator, Reducer and fisheye preventor is in it. That should be plenty to my exterior surfaces.

The Ultra Fine Scotch Brite pad will be nice for the channels on the Windshield and around the Willys logos on the Hood.

Since I am working Nights Next Week I plan on staying up until at least 2am over the weekend so once the wife goes to bed I can go out and Sand since I won't be making any noise. The curse of having the Shop under the Bedroom.

Hopefully I can get the Prep work done over this Weekend and then I will will have next week about 3 hours a day to clean up and restore my Spray booth. And then I can shoot paint over Memorial Weekend.

OH I hate doing Paint.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1 81828384>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.01
Copyright ©2001-2018 Web Wiz Ltd.