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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec. 2021 at 5:27pm
Working on getting the pipes back on today. Its harder to get them on by oneself then off LOL. Also trying not to scratch any of the new coating. At least until its out in the Woods.

Pretty sure at some point I'm going to end up rebuilding the lower section of the Header. It just hangs down to far. Thats the trouble with CUSTOM you rarely get something right the first time. On a small bracket no big deal on a weeks worth of welding and grinding it gets real hard to do it over.

I need to dump some fuel back in it before I put the Exhaust pipe on to make sure I got the fuel leaks sealed up. As the Exhaust is right under the problem area.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Dec. 2021 at 2:53pm
Well this is fun For some totally un-obvious reason the 12V lighter socket I have in place of the stock dash/panel light in CHUG will not transfer power to what ever I plug into it. It has power It is grounded It should work. BUT IT DON'T

And of course there is no way short of hours of disassembly to replace it with another. Just no way to get my hand up in there above the gauges to unscrew the housing. SO I went looking for one that would just push in from the front of the panel. And low and behold I found ONE. So now I can use my Dremel tool with a cut off disc to cut the bezel off the non working one and pull it out from behind or more likely use a wood dowel to push it out from the front. Then I can reach in and grab the two wires pull them through the panel hole and attach them to the socket and then after extensive testing LOL shove the socket into the panel hole.

OK hole is enlarged and I fished the wires out so everything is ready for the new Power port. Hope it fits. It has a cover on it that I might need to remove or modify.




Edited by Mark W. - 18 Dec. 2021 at 5:51pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec. 2021 at 2:38pm
I swear this has to be some sort of Karma thing.

I got the old socket out. The new sockets arrived. They work perfectly with the USB charger when I touch the contacts on the socket directly to power and ground.

If I test from the Sockets power feed line I get between 10.9 and 11.3V while my Voltgauge in the Console is showing 12.6V If I check from the Power terminal in the console (very direct to battery power) to the Ground lead for the Socket I get 12.4 to 12.6V But when testing from the Socket positive lead to any ground I get a drop of at least 1 to 1.5V And the USB charger won't even light up.

I test the power to the Socket at my Fuse box and its 12.2-12.4V SO somewhere in the wire from the fuse box to the socket I am loosing voltage.

On the other side of things I have the new exhaust all installed. The new larger Muffler has to be oriented at an angle to clear the Receiver but that is nothing to worry about. I might drill a pin hole in it at the low point for water drainage. I'll decide that later.

Now to get the O2 sensor installed. trying to decide if I need an antiseaze on the threads.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec. 2021 at 3:08pm
  “ Now to get the O2 sensor installed. trying to decide if I need an antiseaze on the threads.”

  I don’t use much antiseize but I would use some there. 
BW 
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec. 2021 at 4:31pm
I asked on one of the forums I am on with a bunch of Joe Pro Mechanics and the general consensus was to use a little High Temp Nickel based anti Seize SO I ran down to NAPA and they had a little .5oz tube of Permatex 77134 for $4.50 with a 2400° rating it should be just the stuff.

After rolling around on the very cold cement floor in my shop I have the whole exhaust back in place. Once I get this sensor in place and figure out some cable routing. I can spend the next few days under the dash cussing trying to deal with powering this A/F ratio gauge and fixing a couple other electrical gremlins.

Stupid Cig lighter/power port power
MSD spark box is on the Acc side of the Ignition switch needs to be on the IGN side
Above mentioned A/F ratio gauge power and lighting
And running that Third Brake light line to the rear from the pedal switch.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec. 2021 at 6:53pm
If you used crimp on connectors they can end up not crimped as well as you thought.
Melting a little solder in each crimp will make it more solid and a better conductor as well.

It won't do anything for the corrosion that may be lurking in the connectors themselves though.
You might benefit from contact cleaner there.

You probably have some voltage drop at every connection you have.
Maybe not enough to notice, but nothing is perfect.
1946 CJ2A 14098
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec. 2021 at 11:39pm
Thinking along the same lines as you are Bill. I need to pull the power wire and replace it. Trouble is the Fuse box end of the wire is SOOOOOOO buried.

I think I will go the near bubba route to fix this as it will only ever be used as a charging port I'm going to tap into the Acc side of the ignition switch and put an inline fuse in the line. The ground side checks out as OK in that I can source the positive side from my screw terminals in the Console and ground through the Cig Socket ground wire and it works as it should.

Being I need to swap my MSD-6D's power signal wire from the Acc side to the Ign side I have to have the Ignition switch out any way.

At the same time I need to tap power off the Ign terminal to power the AFR gauge and O2 sensor heater.

OH and after buying the High Nickel Anti Seize I pull the little plastic cap off the O2 sensor and see it already has a little anti seize on the threads. So now I am set for the next one in 5 years LOL
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nick_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec. 2021 at 11:19am
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:





This is a work of art!
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec. 2021 at 6:33pm
OK Christmas eve up date

My son came home and as his mom wasn't home from work yet. I was able to get him out to the shop. He helped me move wires around. So

The MSD-6D is now connected to the Ign. side of the switch
The ground wire for the MSD-6A is now attached to the far side of the Master Disconnect (it was acting as a ground wire for the whole dash and I assume other stuff being connected directly to the Negative post on the battery.

All good things so far.

I still need to come up with a positive wire to the Cig lighter socket. And a supply wire and signal wire for the AFR gauge stuff.

And I need to find a good place to mount a relay for the AFR

Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan. 2022 at 3:09am
OK as soon as I attach three leads to the ignition switch the A/F ratio gauge and the Dash power port (formally the cigg lighter) will be working. Turns out I have to take the O2 Sensor back out of the Exhaust to calibrate it (why don't they tell you that before the how to install the O2 Sensor instructions!!!

Latest PITA is trying to figure out how to route the Microphone from the Center Console to the Gauge mount on the steering column. I have to either go somehow under the transmission cover with this little 20 gauge wire or across the fuel tank, along the side wall of the tub and then up. Which means I will have to unplug the mic from the stereo which I think the console has to come out to do or I can't fit the thing behind the side wall gusset.

I know I know if only I had built a fast tractor.

I'm about to start cutting Aluminum for the hard top I still have a bunch of design to work out. But I am pretty sure I have the whole back (from where the top will angle down to the windshield at the rear edge of the door) section frame work designed well enough to start on it.

Glad I bought Aluminum last year before prices have gone up. I'll still need to buy some material but I have saved a lot.

If I don't go back to work I should have some photos of the start of the top in a week or two.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan. 2022 at 4:22pm
The things that end up being the biggest pains in the butt are not always what you would think. I am trying to run a tiny 20ga microphone wire from the stereo in my center console to the point above my Tach and Vacuum gauge on my steering column.

Now this is a tiny wire with two conductors in it. A 90° 1/8" RCA plug on one end and the Microphone about 7/16" D on the other both are molded to the cable. Its tiny enough that the idea of cutting the wire and splicing it is beyond my experience.

I have to possible routes the first which seams easy enough is to go from the console to the Transmission cover then up the toe board to under the Dash. Trouble here is protecting the wire where it goes under the lip of the cover and then what to do with it hanging between the bottom and top edge of the cover. I also want to maintain the good seal I have to the floor.

The other route is up and across the top of the fuel tank where I have other wires running then to the side wall OVER the Side wall gusset (as the microphone is to big to fit behind the Gusset where I ran other wires. OH I haven't mentioned that to unplug this silly little cable from the back of the stereo will require disconnecting all the super hard to connect other wires and cables going to the console AM/FM antenna, CB Antenna, CB Microphone, External CB Speaker, Stereo Speakers and then the Power cable to the Console. Then I would have to pull the Stereo up out of its slot in the console to reach the plug as the Stereo is much shallower then the CB.
Anyway once past the Gusset then I have the Cowl support Gusset to get around. Before I can get to the underside of the dash.

I have created a thin panel with a small channel in it to cover the Mic cable over the face of the Side wall Gusset. And then a clamp and some clips to hold it in place. I am currently working on how to get around the rear flange of the Cowl/Dash support Gusset. I can cut into the hole I currently have the wires to the fuel tank, dome light. Power wires for various electrical stuff that will be in the hard top.  Then I guess I will make some sort of cover for this slot.

And yes I looked no such option for a Bluetooth Mic to work with the little Pioneer Stereo LOL.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan. 2022 at 7:13pm
wow, that is complicated. what is the mic for? Jeep karaoke? LOL

Edited by bight - 07 Jan. 2022 at 7:14pm
CJ-2A 72586 tan (stock)
CJ-2A 197624 green (resto-mod)
the wife abides (def: to bear patiently; TOLERATE)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan. 2022 at 1:46am
as a CDL holder a ticket for using a handheld phone while driving is $1200.00 first time.. So a Bluetooth phone is imperative. And since the goal of building Chug the way I have is to take long trips. Being able to answer or make calls is important.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan. 2022 at 1:50am
All that is left is to stuff some excess mic cable up under the dash. I made calls with the Bluetooth phone connect through the stereo and the wife said it sounded good. I doubt I will be able to use it with out the hard top but who knows. The top is the next project.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan. 2022 at 7:10pm
OK I have officially started work on my Hard top. AND OUCH I plan on using scratch resistant A2 Poly-carbonate (Lexan) 1/4" thick for the Windows. its 1/2 the weight of glass and like 50 times as hard too break.

I checked and my 16" x 28" rear side windows will cost $105.00 each the rear window will be $151.00 and the door windows somewhere around $98.00 each Still deciding if I want the little Custom cab like windows on either side of the Rear hatch like some of the Konieg Tops had. If so those will add another $22.00 each. Yep that adds up to $600 in plastic. Glass would be like 1/2 that but I like the security and weight reduction of the Plastic. All the windows will be easily replaceable based on the way I am installing it.


If I cut the material myself it will be cheaper but thats a lousy trade off as they have special saw blades and a million times the experience as I do and if something gets messed up they just cut another piece If I do I buy more material.

I bought I think all the structural Aluminum I need some time back so got a better price then now days. I will need to buy some 1/8" sheet that is being used for Gussets and then I'll still have to buy the .040" Sheet that will end up covering it.

Today I started milling the Micarta plugs that will be pressed into the ends of the 1" x 1" square tubing to give something to thread into. I'll show details of how its going to be assembled when I get there. I should say its my intention to have NO WELDING at all in the Top. And to have it so that while it would be a PITA repairable.

I got my door windows figured out last night and will figure out the bottom of the doors and how its going to wrap over the top of the Windshield frame when I get there. I have a dozen ideas on both and just need to actually be doing it to decide on whats going to work best.

I'll paint all bare aluminum with Aircraft grade Green Zinc Phosphate Primer and then the exterior will be Kirker brand Wimbledon White. With some Pacific Blue trim (maybe) 

MY goal is to have the Top done before the Oregon Spring Fling




Edited by Mark W. - 12 Jan. 2022 at 7:17pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan. 2022 at 8:18pm
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

MY goal is to have the Top done before the Oregon Spring Fling

 I think I will gussy the Rat Patrol up with a nice coat of linseed oil before the spring fling.....
1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2022 at 7:19pm
WOW this is turning tedious I have to cut some 50) .748-.749" sq x 1.5" Micarta blocks and 50) .870" sq x 1.5" Micarta blocks that will be press fit into the ends of the of the two different wall thickness 1" square tubing that will be the frame work for my hard top. Believe me when I say cutting them to a rough size then running them through the milling machine to get them exact (its a hand crank table) is getting to be a PITA I have the smaller ones done and about 3/4 the way through the larger ones.

Today I also cut 40) 1.15" x 3.25" x 3.25" squares that will end up being machined down to the pieces that support the curves in the top (back corners and along the top to the sides corners) They will have some of the joining holes drilled in them once they are milled to the exact dimensions then 4 at a time will be bolted to a face plate on the lathe and turned to the exact radius needed.

Its interesting all this Micarta would had I had to buy it be ridiculously expensive (aluminum could be cheaper) But because it was gifted to me by a friend I can use it this way. It in its bulk cut form is HEAVY But once I get everything machined to shape and a few lightening holes drilled it will reduce the weight dramatically.

I'm going at this project like a big Tinker Toy set. First I have to build all the parts. Then assemble the sub assembly's (like a section of square tubing with blocks pressed into place to support being bolted together) Then once all the sub assemblies are together I can start building the frame work.

As each section (IE Left wall Right wall Top front Section Top rear Section etc.) is completed I will then stretch the .040" skin over it and attach it. Both with Panel adhesive and Rivets.

I figure I have about 4 months. Should be a busy spring.

Rough cut blocks once milled to dimension these will be cut to a length of 1.5"



Blocks being milled


How many so far each has notes as to fit. to make it easier to pick its application in the assembly


These are the 3.25" square blocks that will end up the corners I figure 2-3 days alone on these



And before this comes up again none of this stuff is wood it is a cloth substrate Phenolic resin material made by Westing house under the brand Name Micarta. A piece 1/4" Thick x 1" wide 6" long is almost impossible for a person to break with only their hands. It will take Torque when threaded. I can drill and tap a 1" deep hole for 5/16" -16T and it will take 30ftlbs of torque So its pretty dang tough.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan. 2022 at 5:06pm
Well I hadn't thought about how many joints there was going to be in this method of building my top. And each joint of the frame will require a 5/16"-18T bolt of some variety and preferably Stainless.

Looks like I can figure on close to $100 in bolts.


Glad I budgeted big for this fancy top.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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