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Mark W. View Drop Down
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    Posted: 25 Oct. 2020 at 6:15pm
I'm at my wits end. This stupid Cowl to Windshield seal is driving me crazy. The one recommended by someone here as being a great fit is so hard the dam thing will not compress at all so it takes up no imperfection in the gap. And WHY ON EARTH do all these seals have the ends curved sharply towards the front of the jeep. The frame sure doesn't curve that way until well past the length of the seal.

I so far have gotten a Seal from Quarter ton that while a little softer was way to thick and would not conform to the last 3 screws on each end. A M102 seal bought off ebay as recommended by someone here its so hard there is NO give at all in it. Shaped exactly like the Quarter ton seal (made in the USA) And the Seal Walcks sells for the application that leaves a vertical gap between the frame and cowl in the middle and the way to small tapered section on the front of the seal wrinkles badly on both curves.

I'm starting to wonder if I can mask off and cast one in place made from Flex seal or something.

Be kind of stupid to have a fancy insulated aluminum hard top with water spraying in under the windshield frame.

The 1" x 3/4" high density foam weather strip I bought to seal around my aluminum radiator would work great to seal the frame but with no taper on the leading edge. I was thinking I could use that under the frame then mask off the frame and the cowl and use Flex Seal to create the tapered Filet. But what a lot of work to find out if that would even work. The Flex Seal would have to have some way to attach to the Weather stripping and would that hold if the Windshield was dropped and the Weather stripping relaxed.

Sorry guys needed to vent some.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Oct. 2020 at 7:25pm
OK maybe on the trail of one that will work. I see Peter Debella has one that the photo looks like its the correct shape. I have an email headed his way.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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IRQVET View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IRQVET Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Oct. 2020 at 11:06pm
Got mine from G503, no complaints. Thumbs Up
Dean
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49' CJ2A w/ GPA Engine #8924
67 CJ5 (Sold)
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oldtime View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Oct. 2020 at 11:33pm
I tried to tell you before peterdebella.
He had them custom made and they are soft to form fit the cowl.
I own a couple of them myself they fit both 3a and 3b. 
I am not familiar with any other seals.
When it comes to jeeps my motto is buy the absolute best or don’t bother.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Bill2A View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2020 at 2:18am
I have had some luck getting dried, hardened rubber to soften up by rubbing it down with Gojo hand cleaner.
The same stuff that keeps your hands soft also seeps into rubber.
If may take days to make any difference, but it's worth a try.
1946 CJ2A 14098
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IronAge52 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IronAge52 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2020 at 4:12am
just FYI. I spent a  whole day once installing a windshield frame.  all day on an M38  . JUST kept working with it . I thought original , I just gave up.  time passed , I went to a club event and bought another,   known original  frame.  mounted perfectly in about 15 minuets.
moral of the story I will never buy a RE-POP part again,  unless its a gas tank.  original good gas tanks are all but gone.
Jerry,  San Diego




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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2020 at 11:59am
My original seal is cracked and split on both corners no amount of lotion is going to make it look servicable.

I know my frame is original and its been with the jeep since dad put it on there in 1963 from the 49 3A sitting next to it in his shed. And its not the frame thats the problem its the shape of the new seals on the ends instead of curving down they curve forward.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2020 at 12:15pm
It is always the little things that turn out giving the biggest trouble.

Let us know what you end up with. I have to replace the seals on both of my Jeeps, so good to know about the ones that don't fit, hopefully you will find one that does.


If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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Stev View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2020 at 1:22pm
You might try warming up the cowl gasket in a bucket of hot water.  My experience is that they are pretty stiff and only get worse as winter sets in.

As for leaking water down the dash -  Years ago, I would buy a tar style tape that is used on semi trucks to seal seams.  I used it under the cowl gasket and along the sides of the hard top in the winter.  It would keep the water out but requires some work to clean off in the spring when the hard top was removed.  Something like this stuff:

Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2020 at 6:37pm
Peter Debella seals are no longer available. Trying the oneRRon Fitzpatrick  sells. After talking to him this morning.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drm101 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2020 at 9:05pm
I bought mine from KaiserWillys. I am sure it's a repop, but it fits fine other than the ends don't line up with the screws just right, and that you can't see unless you lay the windshield down. Just another option. 
Dean
'47 CJ2A "Ron"
'66 CJ5 "Buckie"
The less the Power the More the Force
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 47 deuce alpha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct. 2020 at 2:48pm
Have you thought about soaking the seal in some sort of oil to soften it up and make it more pliable? Years back in the oilfield we would soak packer rubbers in a mixture of wintergreen oil to soften them and make them easier to install. Go cart racers routinely coat their tires with a wintergreen base oil to soften them up. One product they use is Thor's #12Tire treatment. Another one is called Thor Oil Goat Pee P #5 Tire Prep Softener. (no Joke!) I've also been told marvel oil will soften rubber and neoprene.      
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1947 CJ2A 127735
1949 Ford 8N
1955 Kaiser Willys Pickup
Half the distance takes you twice as long.
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct. 2020 at 5:14pm
The problem is the seals are molded to have a curve on the ends softening it would not help.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct. 2020 at 6:30pm
For more ideas - You might go ask the guys on the 3B or 3A page - since they have that style of windshield you have from a CJ3A.  Perhaps there is something they can add.   The CJ3B page looks to have some excellent detail on the their vehicles.

Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IronAge52 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct. 2020 at 5:51am
I would like to see a picture . is that possible?  i would like to compare it to the one i bought from rock auto. mine is on  a CJ3B.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct. 2020 at 12:03pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct. 2020 at 12:05pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct. 2020 at 12:06pm
This is the biggest problem the ends of the seal turns forward not down.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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