Antisieze |
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Joe Friday
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 26 Dec. 2010 Location: Jeep Central Status: Offline Points: 3654 |
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It appears I'm the one that caused the scope creep on this 'stolen' thread.
I no longer have access to the Mitchells auto service estimator online to see how much was parts vs labor. I do know they replaced all 4 cams at $225-$250 each plus markup. I wasn't really criticizing what the dealer charged, as much as the fact that one of the rockers they installed went bad in 20,000 miles. I was also surprised that the roller rockers appeared to only be supplied by melling, and cost a mere $6.00 each. If I read correctly, the most common cause for failure is poor oil supply from the components that control the variable valve timing. Since this engine was beautifully clean inside I have to suspect it was a bad part. I am in the unfortunate position that I supply the auto industry with the only part they can charge warranty back on that they don't need to return the broken part. So I'm sure I've seen the dark side .
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Long_Range
Member Joined: 23 Nov. 2016 Location: Northern CO Status: Offline Points: 15 |
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Well, there you go , folks! Now you know...Permatex's lawyers have spoken in plain English... I am not convinced by the Permatex link information. I always thought the correct torque value stretched the bolt a little (within the bolt's elastic limit) and that helped keep it from coming loose. The Permatex link referred to making it too easy to overtighten (as if you were not paying attention) a couple times. Then mentioned due to the lubrication it could be overtightened even if you were paying attention. It appears, according to Permatex, proper torque is dependent on the friction of the the threads. Dry rusty threads would have higher friction and receive less tightening than new clean threads or threads with a little oil or penetrant (or anti-seize) on them. This is just not sounding quite right to me. Anybody else think this way too? |
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WeeWilly
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: Clayton IN Status: Offline Points: 3423 |
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I would question how many people actually use torque wrenches on wheel lugs. I remember tire shops back in the 60 and 70's didn't, they just used an impact wrench. I have always and still use a + wrench to change wheels. If it was that important car manufactures would include them with the jack and spare tire. I also use anti seize to keep them from rusting and making it almost impossible get the wheel off. Permatex doesn't have to worry about me trying to sue them. Jim
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47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7980 |
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I worked for Chevron 1977 to 1979 both a co. Store and a private dealer I then went to college for auto tech. We used torque wrenches on all disc brake wheels and since we had it in hand also did the drums. There were spec's for the disc's on our car care service sheets for almost everything.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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cpt logger
Member Joined: 23 Sep. 2012 Location: Western Colorad Status: Offline Points: 3040 |
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Like Mark W, I also use a torque wrench on wheel lugs. I have the wrenches & it is cheap insurance. This is especially important with non-steel rims and disc brakes. I also insist that the tire shops use torque wrenches. Some of the techs argue a bit, but if the manager also argues I will take my business elsewhere. There are plenty of tire shops in town, so they know that I can go somewhere else. Most good shops do not mind the extra time to care about this. However, when I get a flat, "out in the field" as it were I, like most folks, use a cross wrench to tighten the lugs. I may or may not remember to properly torque them when I get back to the shop. I have lost zero wheels and have had zero wheels crack or break. Of course, YMMV. |
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Sugarloaf
Member Joined: 05 Dec. 2017 Location: WA Status: Offline Points: 36 |
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Here’s one. I always use anti seize on brake shoe adjusters (star wheels). I was recently watching videos and one very sharp prominent you tuber was doing the t case mounted emergency brake. He made specific mention of NOT using anti seize on that adjuster. Only oil. He said there’s a place for anti seize but I do not use it here. He never explained why. Anyone want to hazard a guess?
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Easy Does It.
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BD1
Member Joined: 18 Dec. 2019 Location: Maine Status: Offline Points: 630 |
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I have religiously used a torque wrench twice on any and all lug nuts ever since the day one of the wheels on my single axle boat trailer passed me on the right on Rt 64 in downtown Richmond VA on my way from Bluffton SC to Greenville ME. All the studs had sheared off. I had tightened those lugs "Armstrong tight" with a 4-way lug wrench before leaving SC. Luckily the V20 stayed behind the truck long enough for me to pull over, and the wheel took the next exit into the infield without hitting anyone, or any thing. I was lucky, but it was very inconvenient to say the least.
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BD
'47 CJ2a, Shiny on top! '55 CJ5 project |
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TERRY
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2007 Location: BOULDER COLORADO Status: Offline Points: 3400 |
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Trailer lug nuts are a problem. They are usually stud centric rather than hub centric and need to be re-torqued several times after 25 mile or so drives so the rim settles in its proper place.
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BOULDER 48 2A
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