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Bantam T3-C Serial #24011

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PackRat View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PackRat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep. 2018 at 1:43pm
Both of my spring packs are like the one on the LEFT in your pic of them on the table so I need the #4 with the slightly tapered ends. I see you have one of them (on the left) and another with squared-off ends on all leaves.

I believe you have two different styles but I have no way of knowing if they have the same spring responses.

So....If we found a five-leaf with the riveted keeper on it and that is the one you need a new #1 on, then we could split it between us. On the other hand, if you can check the resistance of both while on the bench and detect a big difference, maybe some repop springs will work for you.
GPW-17963 4/24/42
Ford F-250
Alaskan Camper
Bantam T3-C #21170
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takesiteasy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takesiteasy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Sep. 2018 at 11:05am
I'll have to check again which set has the broken leaf. I did buy some repop springs with 8 leafs- will see how they compare with the old ones.

Meanwhile, we did a test fit on the new floor- fits perfect. I got the floor from Midwest Military. They did a one-off for me. Same floor as the MBT without the drain and the flange is bent down at the tailgate end. It fits perfectly. As a result, John at MW said they will offer the T3-C floors as a new product.

We have rehabbed the frame and tub walls. Straightened the tailgate which was bent. Did some metal shrinking on that which was a new experience for me and  interesting to do. Cut out all the rusted areas in the frame and tub and replaced with new metal welded in. Did the same with the fenders. It's all ready to paint.

Trying to decide on the build sequence now. I would like to get paint on all surfaces before reassembling the tub to the frame but the paint will get in the way and complicate the process of welding the tub and floor back to the frame. Anyone have thoughts on that?

Here's a pic of the new floor test fit on the frame with the tub walls:


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PackRat View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PackRat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Sep. 2018 at 1:25pm
Buy some primer that can be welded through and get the whole sandblasted assembly protected from flash rust! Then you can clean up any blackened steel from the welding and re-prime and paint. Anything that is a bolt-on should get primed right after sandblasting if no repairs are needed. That includes the final color paint you choose. If you clean our the ball socket, don't paint where the ball will ride, a little axel grease will prevent rust in there.
GPW-17963 4/24/42
Ford F-250
Alaskan Camper
Bantam T3-C #21170
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takesiteasy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takesiteasy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Sep. 2018 at 7:28pm
Seems like the approach will be to prime, paint and wire brush/flap brush the areas to be welded. So far, no issues with flash rust. We have a nice heated shop where we can keep things dry. Hope to paint soon but life seems to get in the way all the time. Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takesiteasy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct. 2018 at 8:30pm
Got some new springs- the pair came nicely packed in separate boxes.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takesiteasy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct. 2018 at 8:42pm
We've started painting. The new floor looks great. The frame will be totally coated all sides before re-assembly. This should add significantly to the useful life to the trailer. The fenders and tub will still show their age and past use but all rust everywhere has been removed and replaced with new metal. Hope to finish painting and start reassembly this weekend.A final paint coat will be applied once the trailer is back together.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct. 2018 at 12:05am
Did you end up adding extra support to prevent future bed sagging?  Do you know how the bed you got from MW compares to the stuff from Manila?

Edited by mickeykelley - 04 Oct. 2018 at 12:24am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takesiteasy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct. 2018 at 9:19am
Originally posted by mickeykelley mickeykelley wrote:

Did you end up adding extra support to prevent future bed sagging?  Do you know how the bed you got from MW compares to the stuff from Manila?


I did not add extra support. I decided to keep the trailer pretty much original. I will most likely add something like 3/4" plywood in the bed to protect the floor if I am going to put a heavy load in it. Time will tell if that was a good decision.

I am super-pleased with the new floor from Midwest Military. It came bare steel oiled to prevent rust. This allowed me to use a high quality epoxy primer on it. The manufacturing quality is excellent and it fit the frame perfectly. Near as I can tell it matches the original floor specs exactly.

I haven't seen the floors from MDJuan in person so I can't say how they compare. I did buy replacement tailgate support panels from MDJuan. They needed some rework to fit and the primer is of lower quality than what I am using. The steel gauge may be a bit lighter than the originals. But they did work and the result is probably better than if I had tried to repair the rusted original panels.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chris insull Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct. 2018 at 6:47pm
Great progress! Looking forward to seeing the finished version!👍
1971 CJ-5
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takesiteasy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct. 2018 at 10:26pm
Originally posted by chris insull chris insull wrote:

Great progress! Looking forward to seeing the finished version!👍


Ha! Me too!

Thanks for your comment!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takesiteasy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct. 2018 at 10:22pm
It's done (well a few details yet but 99%). I'm waiting for a new data plate. Need to make a spare tire holder (ideas welcome). Need to get a tarp or make a lid. Pretty happy how it turned out.

Here's some pics:















Edited by takesiteasy - 27 Oct. 2018 at 9:02pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takesiteasy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct. 2018 at 4:48pm
Let the trailer out of the garage today. Picked up a nice piece of plywood to protect the new floor. Have to buy some more olive drab paint.



Also installed the new data plate. Looks good.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67charger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct. 2018 at 5:00pm
Looks good!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rus Curtis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct. 2018 at 6:01pm
Nice!
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Gil View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct. 2018 at 9:14pm
Nice looking trailer,congrats well done .

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takesiteasy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Oct. 2018 at 9:33am
Thanks for the comments!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Oct. 2018 at 10:36am
Yea. Makes me want one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PackRat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Oct. 2018 at 2:29pm
After working with the sheet metal and seeing how the floors are always "wavy", I don't think any spare tire should be affixed to the tub. If you can fabricate an "A" frame that sits on the drawbars just in front of the tub so you can still access the tarp hook I think that would be best. Make the "A" frame with extended "feet" so you can use a couple hefty bolts to attach that plate to the drawbars and don't be afraid to use some steel angle-iron for the "A" frame. To that you can weld on a repop WWII or post war spare tire mounting after you torch off most of it to keep the tire in position.

You can assemble the "A" frame with a spare on it and check for where you will drill the holes in the drawbars BEFORE drilling them to insure it will fit right.
GPW-17963 4/24/42
Ford F-250
Alaskan Camper
Bantam T3-C #21170
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