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Barry S 
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Joined: 01 Mar. 2020 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 664 |
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 Posted: 10 July 2022 at 11:15pm |
 https://www.youtube.com/clip/UgkxKidur6Y2ySke64E7eHcEhn4TEraHXXLt Here's a video of the source of the tick. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TruImLXHBgY As it turns out, the threads on that one tappet were so loose I could turn them with my fingers. They are supposed to be so tight that you have to use 2 wrenches against each other - that way the adjustment stays put. To change a tappet, it looks like pretty much the whole engine has to come apart - a project that I don't want to start right now. My solution for time being was to run the threads way out to expose them, clean them up real good with brake cleaner, (being careful to plug the oil return holes first), and then use blue locktight to hold the tappet at the correct .016" gap. If it ends up going out of adjustment again, I will repeat the fix only with red locktight. While I was in there I went ahead and set all the other tappet gaps and replaced the cover and PCV vent dome gaskets. This was actually a pretty easy repair - I removed the fender for easy access, and had no trouble working around the exhaust manifold without removing it. No more tick! Since doing this repair I have run the jeep hard at Bantam and at Southington again last weekend, plus put quite a few road miles on. So far - So good! |
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1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729 194? CJ2A 04893/194304 1946 CJ2A 46745 1946 CJ2A 36723 1945 MB 413665 1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487 |
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Barry S
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Joined: 01 Mar. 2020 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 664 |
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Posted: 11 July 2022 at 8:10pm |
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Lots of catching up to do here.
Last April I posted a picture of 3 WO carbs I pulled from the Parts Jeep Fleet. I sent one of them to Rick at Old Jeep Carbs. He did a great job of refurbishing it which included new bushings for the throttle plate shaft. Here's a pic of it installed in Grasshopper.  Even with the freshly refurbished carb the jeep still did not run well and I noticed oil dripping from a joint on the filter to carb crossover tube onto the top of the engine. That got me thinking there might be too much pressure in the crankcase forcing oil mist up thru the dipstick tube and vent over into the crossover tube which lead me to investigate the PCV valve. Turns out the PCV valve was all corroded and gunked up inside, so back out to the parts fleet I went. There I discovered 2 or 3 different types. All were really messed up except one. The spring was intact and it was not badly rusted. Here's a pic of it before cleaning.  After cleaning it up and installing it, the engine runs better and there has been no more oil getting blown up into the crossover tube. I have not rechecked the vacuum but am anxious to see if there is an improvement there as well. Another problem solved! -Barry Edited by Barry S - 11 July 2022 at 8:49pm |
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1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729 194? CJ2A 04893/194304 1946 CJ2A 46745 1946 CJ2A 36723 1945 MB 413665 1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487 |
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Barry S
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Joined: 01 Mar. 2020 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 664 |
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Posted: 11 July 2022 at 8:48pm |
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Last year I rebuilt and repaired Grasshopper's distributor. During that repair I discovered that someone had installed the oil pump incorrectly which had the distributor turned out of it's correct position. You can compensate for this simply by making sure the rotor is pointed to #1 wire at top dead center so it was OK, EXCEPT that the oiler is hanging downward preventing oiling the distributor. Since I had the drivers side fender off to get to the tappets, I figured that would be a good time to reengage the pump gear teeth to correct the distributor position.
Here's the "before" oil pump shaft and distributor position. Notice that the oiler is pointing downward at about 5 o clock.   Here's everything in the correct position after reengaging the teeth on the oil pump. The slot on the end of the oil pump with the engine at TDC should be at 11 o clock with the fatter side of the shaft up. This puts the rotor pointing to #1 spark plug at 5 o clock and the oiler at 1 o clock so when you add oil it runs down into the distributor shaft and bushing.   Hope someone finds this helpful! -Barry |
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1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729 194? CJ2A 04893/194304 1946 CJ2A 46745 1946 CJ2A 36723 1945 MB 413665 1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487 |
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Barry S
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Joined: 01 Mar. 2020 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 664 |
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Posted: 21 May 2023 at 9:13pm |
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It has been a long time since I have posted on my thread. Last year I was having too much fun wheeling Grasshopper to want to have it down to work on. That changed drastically in October at the Ohio Fall Colors Ride where I experienced “Death Wobble” for the first time. I was going maybe 25 or 30 MPH when I hit a pothole with the drivers side front tire. Suddenly the front wheels started shaking right and left and the jeep was difficult to control. Slowing down to almost a complete stop let me regain smooth steering control. The “Death Wobble” would repeat if I hit a bump or pothole with just one of the front tires. Luckily most of the rest of the weekend was spent wheeling rocky trails at a crawl or low speed but I decided quickly what my off season project would be. Last Thursday 5/18/23, as part of the Spring Willys Reunion, a group of us wheeled at Southington Offroad Park. I had a chance to test all of the steering upgrades that I did in the off season. Everything performed perfectly so I feel like I can report here. This is going to be a long write up on my complete steering system upgrade. It will take me a few days of typing and I have a lot of pictures. Stay tuned! -Barry |
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1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729 194? CJ2A 04893/194304 1946 CJ2A 46745 1946 CJ2A 36723 1945 MB 413665 1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487 |
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jhg
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Joined: 07 Nov. 2016 Location: colorado Status: Offline Points: 917 |
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Posted: 21 May 2023 at 11:47pm |
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1948 cj2a. Rebuilt L-head, steering, T90, WO 636, steering, brake lines. So far.
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Barry S
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Joined: 01 Mar. 2020 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 664 |
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Posted: 22 May 2023 at 9:42pm |
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After lots of research and thought after the “Death Wobble” last fall, here is the list of upgrades that I decided to attempt in the off season: Convert to double hole knuckles with gussets. Knuckle stud conversion. Saginaw power steering conversion. Electric over hydraulic PS pump Heavier drag link and one piece tie rod. M-38 tie rod ends. Tie rod flip. Retain original steering wheel and horn button. I started by tracking down the 2 hole knuckles. They are getting hard to find – I ended up buying an entire Dana 27 axle out of a Commando just for the knuckles. I considered just using the whole axle but my Dana 25 has 5.38:1 gears and I didn’t want to start a differential gear changing project too. 2 hole knuckle set removed from Dana 27
Next I started in on the knuckle stud conversion. The tooling and hardware came from McMaster Carr. I used: 3102A Changeable Pilot Counter bore Bit 21/32” dia. 3103A29 Pilot 5/16” with 3/18” shank Most people use 91255A647 Button Head Screws that are 1-1/4” long. I had converted to Brennan”s Garage TracKick disk brake setup which adds a ¼” thick mounting plate so I needed the button head screws to be longer. I used: 91255A045 Button head screw 3/8”- 24 thread 1-1/2” long 94895A815 Grade 8 Nut 3/8”-24 thread 91104A031 Lock washer 3/8” I had to buy the hardware in packs so I ended up with lots of extras. I ran the counter bore in the drill press. I had to keep most of the shank out of the chuck to reach the surface to be machined but it just reached. My goal was to provide clearance at sides for the screw heads and a flat surface under the heads.
After chasing the threads with a tap to clean them, I test fit one of the button screws and discovered that the head stopped short of the machined surface of the knuckle. It was because the threads on the screw stopped short of the head.
My solution was to chamfer the threaded hole in the knuckle just enough to provide clearance for the straight shoulder of the screw. I had to use an extension because the cordless drill chuck would not fit into the knuckle.
On the next test fit I found that the edge of the screw head protruded out past the opening for the axle u joint to slide through. Chucking it lightly (to not damage the threads) in a drill and holding the head against a grinding wheel trimmed the head down so it did not protrude.
The knuckles were now ready for paint and assembly. Paint curing by the fire.
I used red Locktite on the button head screw threads and installed them. Finished knuckles with studs!
It was now time to tear into the jeep. It was the middle of March and my goal was to wheel at Southington on May 18 with the Spring Willys Reunion. While the jeep was still in the barn I started cutting off all the welded on heavy steel from a PO.
I discovered that the frame horns were pretty bent up but fairly solid.
Time to move it into the garage where there was some heat and a cement floor. I told my wife that her car would only have to be out for a week or two. Yah sure! The first thing I did was to level the frame in the middle and run a laser out to the frame horns. They were both bent down a little but I felt not enough to warrant another big project.
I went ahead and started straightening and boxing both frame horns.
From cardboard template to 1/8" steel ready to weld in - I LOVE my plasma cutter!
Edited by Barry S - 11 July 2023 at 7:51am |
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1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729 194? CJ2A 04893/194304 1946 CJ2A 46745 1946 CJ2A 36723 1945 MB 413665 1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487 |
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jhg
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Joined: 07 Nov. 2016 Location: colorado Status: Offline Points: 917 |
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Posted: 22 May 2023 at 10:53pm |
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Nice Hearthstone.
What plasma cutter do you own?
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1948 cj2a. Rebuilt L-head, steering, T90, WO 636, steering, brake lines. So far.
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dasvis
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Sponsor Member Joined: 07 Sep. 2019 Location: Salem, Oregon Status: Offline Points: 1550 |
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Posted: 23 May 2023 at 12:03am |
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Nice.
Thanks for the part #’s. Will be picking up some for a later project. Note that the part # you gave for the button head bolt is incorrect - should be 91255A045
Edited by dasvis - 23 May 2023 at 9:53am |
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1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty" 1964 Thunderbird convertible ..... & one of them moves under it's own power!! |
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Barry S
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Joined: 01 Mar. 2020 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 664 |
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Posted: 23 May 2023 at 7:08am |
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Hi jhg! We like the Hearthstone - it is a a steady heat compared to our old steel woodburner. My plasma cutter is a Lotos LTP5000D with pilot arc from Amazon. It's in the picture with the chamfer cutter. So much cleaner and easier than Oxy/Acy. My brother Ron and I each got this model about a year ago - Zero complaints for an inexpensive cutter. It definitely earned it's keep on this project! I've since mounted it on my welding cart.
-Barry  |
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1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729 194? CJ2A 04893/194304 1946 CJ2A 46745 1946 CJ2A 36723 1945 MB 413665 1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487 |
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Ruffy
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Joined: 28 Dec. 2017 Location: Central Ohio Status: Offline Points: 60 |
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Posted: 23 May 2023 at 8:50am |
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Great Job Barry!
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Current Jeep Fleet
A few 2a’s A couple of 3B’s Couple of FC’s And a DJ3A |
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Barry S
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Joined: 01 Mar. 2020 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 664 |
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Posted: 23 May 2023 at 6:14pm |
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I should pause here to explain my thinking on a steering system for Grasshopper. I know that a fresh or well maintained Ross box/bell crank set up does the job but I have never had much luck with it. Plus much of my time is spent climbing rocks and that added stress on a Ross system made me nervous. In the early 80’s I converted my V8 powered 55 CJ5 to manual Saginaw and was much happier - so a steering upgrade to Grasshopper has been in the back of my mind from the start. Other considerations included that since I have a locker in the front axle, sometimes it is VERY hard to turn the wheel. In fact, once I pulled the steering column out I found that I had cracked it from pulling so hard. This made going to power steering very attractive. The next step on the project was to decide on type and placement of the steering box. I really wanted to go power but the box is much larger. Here is manual vs power. They are both out of jeeps of some kind – probably 70’s. The power one is an 800 box with the 76 cast into it. They were 25 buck each so I figured I would experiment a little.
I already had an idea for the power steering pump but didn’t know if it would work. I definitely did not want to attach it to the little Go Devil engine – it is already way under powered plus I didn’t want to deal with figuring out how to mount a PS pump and its pulley/belt. I decided to try to use the power box if I could make it fit. Worst cases – go back to the manual box (uses the same mounting bolts) or just run the power box with no hydraulics if I couldn’t make an electric hydraulic pump work. I wanted to keep everything as high as possible away from the rocks. Here are some pics of the first test fit. Top mounting bolts sitting on top of frame horn. Puts pitman arm above spring.
Side view. Input shaft runs into crossmember.
Top view. Input shaft is too far from frame rail with box tight against rail and parallel to it. Will run into radiator and radiator mount. Pitman arm too long.
Here are the obstacles from the other side. Only 1 inch between frame and radiator. Will have to either fit shaft in that space or stay under it.
Here you can see the square frame of the radiator sitting on the mount. Mighty close clearance for the shaft to go by!
After lots of head scratching I finally came up with a solution. To keep the box high I would cut a rounded notch in the bottom of the crossmember. To keep the intermediate shaft close to the frame I would angle the box and use a u joint rather than have it parallel to the frame. That would put the u joint directly under the crossmember. To minimize the size of the crossmember notch I would use a new u joint splined for this box rather than the much larger original splined connector. Here they are side by side.
Let the cutting begin!!
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1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729 194? CJ2A 04893/194304 1946 CJ2A 46745 1946 CJ2A 36723 1945 MB 413665 1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487 |
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Barry S
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Joined: 01 Mar. 2020 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 664 |
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Posted: 23 May 2023 at 7:10pm |
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Here we are starting to cut the notch in the crossmember with the plasma cutter. The steering box is being supported in position by the top bolts resting on the handle of the crescent wrench. The piece of wood is holding that end of the box out to angle it.
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1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729 194? CJ2A 04893/194304 1946 CJ2A 46745 1946 CJ2A 36723 1945 MB 413665 1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487 |
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Barry S
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Joined: 01 Mar. 2020 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 664 |
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Posted: 23 May 2023 at 7:49pm |
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I am very fortunate to have my brother Ron. He did the heavy cutting and welding on mounting the steering box. After making the decision to cut the notch into the crossmember I was nervous to make the first cut. Sometimes you have to just take a deep breath and rip off the Bandaid - Instead, I asked my brother to do it!  Thanks Ron!!Here he is trying to set his pants on fire!  For the actual mounts Ron bored 7/16" holes through 3) 4" long 3/4" dia. pieces of round stock. For the 4th mount he tapped in threads for the bolt. With the crossmember notch rough cut we could start tacking the mounts into position. They would be trimmed to length on the outside of the frame and shorter bolts used later.  Edited by Barry S - 13 Aug. 2023 at 1:16pm |
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1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729 194? CJ2A 04893/194304 1946 CJ2A 46745 1946 CJ2A 36723 1945 MB 413665 1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487 |
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Nothing Special
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Joined: 02 Feb. 2018 Location: Roseville, MN Status: Offline Points: 845 |
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Posted: 23 May 2023 at 8:51pm |
Keep in mind that an electric hydraulic pump is still getting all its power from the Go Devil, just that it's going out through the generator/alternator rather than directly to the power steering pump. Of course there's still the issue of mounting the pump, and depending on engine speed and what you are asking the power steering to do at any given time the instantaneous load may well be higher with a mechanical pump, so I'm not telling you to do anything different.
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Barry S
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Joined: 01 Mar. 2020 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 664 |
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Posted: 23 May 2023 at 9:07pm |
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These shots are with the top mounts tacked in place. This would be the final position for the power steering box. Side view. U joint is through crossmember notch. Pitman arm is at good height but still too long.  Front view. Box is level.  U joint passing through crossmember and radiator mount.  Just barely going under the radiator. (Sorry about the focus.) We did not have to trim the radiator at all - just the mount.  Next it was time to secure the 2 bottom mounts. For the rear bottom mount I used the plasma cutter to make these brackets to be welded to the back edges of the spring mount.  Ready for welding.  For the bottom front mount, first I drilled the threads out to make a 7/16" hole for a bolt to pass thru. Then I clearanced the casting on the steering box to allow room to start and tighten the mounting bolt.  I then remounted the box with the other 3 bolts and measured the distance from the mounting flange on the box to the side of the spring mount. I cut to length a piece of the round stock with threads tapped in that Ron made, bolted in place and welded it to the spring mount.  Bottom mounts done!  Lastly I trimmed the mounts off flush with the outside of the frame horns and adjusted the bolt lengths.   At this point I was a very happy camper! Power steering box was mounted! That felt like such a HUGE step. It was now April 7 - only about 5 weeks till Southington. It would be tight but I felt like it was doable.  Edited by Barry S - 23 May 2023 at 9:09pm |
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1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729 194? CJ2A 04893/194304 1946 CJ2A 46745 1946 CJ2A 36723 1945 MB 413665 1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487 |
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Barry S
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Joined: 01 Mar. 2020 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 664 |
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Posted: 24 May 2023 at 7:38am |
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The last thing to do for the steering box mount was to go back and tidy up and reinforce the crossmember notch. Here is a shot looking through the notch and engine mount.  Bottom view of the notch and clearanced radiator mount.  I cut a patch out of a piece of pipe.   Ron tacked it in for one last test fit.   All clearances were good so he welded it home. Sooo pretty!!  |
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1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729 194? CJ2A 04893/194304 1946 CJ2A 46745 1946 CJ2A 36723 1945 MB 413665 1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487 |
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AKoller
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Sponsor Member Joined: 19 Sep. 2018 Location: Moundridge Kans Status: Offline Points: 653 |
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Posted: 24 May 2023 at 9:23am |
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For me the power steering upgrade I did to Thumper a little over a year ago ranks right up there with lockers and lower gear upgrades I had done in the past. I wouldn't trade it for anything at this point for the type of wheeling I do. Keep in mind I had a manual Saginaw steering setup before the power. I'm sure you will enjoy it.
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1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
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Barry S
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Joined: 01 Mar. 2020 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 664 |
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Posted: 24 May 2023 at 2:25pm |
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Hi Al, You're right - Now that I have it I wouldn't want to be without it. I've followed your posts on your mods to Thumper and thank you for taking the time to share. I gained a lot of inspiration and ideas from you guys and am hoping help others the same way. Hope to cross paths with you one of these days!
-Barry
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1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729 194? CJ2A 04893/194304 1946 CJ2A 46745 1946 CJ2A 36723 1945 MB 413665 1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487 |
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Barry S wrote: