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otto View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Oct. 2022 at 9:55pm

So there it is grasshoppers- I have bestowed upon the members of the CJ2a page all the knowledge I possess in this arena. Use as much or as little of it as you see fit; go forth and do great things.


Certification-

If you have followed this thread from the start, good for you! You are entitled to follow the link to a certificate (suitable for framing} that you can display to anyone interested, include in resumes, attach to credit checks, apply for Nobel prizes, use for credentials in post graduate programs or just hang in your garage. The Armchair Academy will vouch for your qualifications in internet continuing education.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct. 2022 at 1:20am
thank you otto

so can i now send you my desktop flatfender made by forum member Scratch to paint with that beautiful leftover red paint you have? LOL


Edited by bight - 03 Oct. 2022 at 1:24am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct. 2022 at 5:46am
terrific info Otto. Thanks for doing this! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct. 2022 at 7:59pm
Originally posted by bight bight wrote:

thank you otto

so can i now send you my desktop flatfender made by forum member Scratch to paint with that beautiful leftover red paint you have? LOL

When I started this thread my approach was to “Teach a man to fish”, where he will attain the necessary wisdom to move forward into the unknown and conquer doubts from within. 


Bight, I don’t want to deprive you of the opportunity to demonstrate your new found knowledge or cheat you out of the satisfying experience of using a new skill to dazzle your friends and family. I am confident that you are firmly able to tackle a paint job on your desktop jeep with the essential qualities you surely possess after reading this thread, after all, there’s a certificate! Wink


I’m not completely done here; I may pop in from time to time and update things and I’ll keep an eye on the thread if folks have questions about something.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct. 2022 at 8:58pm
dangitall. you see through the trickery master!

well all i have is pasture green. and an airbrush. 

and fine grit sandpaper. 


Edited by bight - 03 Oct. 2022 at 8:59pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct. 2022 at 11:43pm

A while ago a question was asked about HVLP spray guns and I didn’t give an answer that I’m proud of so maybe I’ll take another crack at it. As is common knowledge, HVLP is an acronym for: High Volume Low Pressure and this refers to the higher volume of air passed through the gun at a lower pressure than a conventional gun. The idea here is to get a more efficient transfer of material from the gun to the panel and less product lost to overspray into the atmosphere or hopefully some booth filters.


The FLG spray gun that I got recently is sold as a HVLP and was delivered with a HVLP air cap. I just got an optional air cap for the FLG that is for “conventional” spraying or non-HVLP operation. From the chart in the gun’s manual, you can see the stock 693 HVLP air cap consumes more air at a lower air pressure than the #5 cap that I just got to try. The #5 consumes less air, but requires a higher pressure.




I believe the theory behind the HVLP is to spray larger globules of paint at a lower pressure using a larger volume of air in order to carry the paint. You can see the larger holes in the “ears” of the  HVLP air cap. These holes direct air towards the stream of atomized paint and can be adjusted by the fan adjusting knob. The #5 cap has more holes near the fluid needle orifice to create somewhat of a venturi effect to mix paint and air. The difference in air pressure according to the chart is not that great, 26 psi vs. 35 psi; these are the pressures where Devilbiss says the gun will achieve the most efficient transfer of material. You can turn the pressure up higher with the HVLP, but it won’t perform with the same efficiency.



The air cap is the key part of the gun that determines how it will spray; it’s like the camshaft or ECU. The nozzle and needle solely control fluids through the gun, and the rest of it is really just a handle. So in answering Bruce W’s question, it seems all the HVLP technology is in the air cap and that alone determines if this gun sprays as a HVLP or conventional.
v


Edited by otto - 09 Oct. 2022 at 12:53pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scratch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov. 2022 at 6:30pm
I'm curious as to why rattle can spray paint isn't as durable as a quality automotive paint system.

Let's say just a single stage system, no basecoat clearcoat.  I know if you use the good stuff like PPG, House of Kolor, Eastwood, Napa, etc... you need to buy the paint, the reducer and the activator or catalyst, and after it cures it will be very durable.

The rattle can spray paints like Rustoleum and others also harden, but they don't seem to resist chipping and flaking like a professional automotive paint system.  Is it simply because they don't have an activator or catalyst?  Maybe they aren't applied as thick as the pro stuff?  Anyone know the actual "reason" that rattle can paint isn't as durable as the pro stuff? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov. 2022 at 9:34pm

Yes, you’re right that rattle can paint is far inferior to quality, catalyzed paint; but it shore is handy! Just think, grab a can off the shelf and spray away- no mixing, measuring or cleanup. What could be better?


Rattle can paint is usually an air dry enamel with a very fast reducer (plus a marble) that is reduced down to a very thin viscosity. So much so that it has to come out of the very small spray button on the can. So in doing so, I imagine all the “good stuff” was likely removed from the paint to accomplish this. There’s not much paint to begin with so the spray can application will be very thin.


Also let’s be honest, is the prep work for painting stuff with a rattle can always the best? I know mine’s not.


I did empty the paint out of a rattle can once and ran it through my spray gun. It was going on very mottled from the rattle can and I thought the spray gun could solve this. What struck me was that after I bled the propellant out of the can, the paint would bubble in a cup like a carbonated beverage. In the end, I think that rattle can paint is weighing convenience over quality by a wide margin, but it’s so damn handy!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov. 2022 at 9:43pm
And we pay a HUGE price for that convenient invention called rattle cans.

A friend of mine has a loading machine and fills blank cans with custom paint colors.
He told me the average can has about 2 ounces of paint.

So, if you pay $8 for the average rattle can and do the math it comes out to about $512 a gallon.

That's a lot to pay for primer --- or your favorite color.
Cracks me up when I hear folks say they're just going to put a "cheap" paint job on it using rattle cans....LOL


Edited by Ron D - 03 Nov. 2022 at 9:47pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov. 2022 at 8:52pm
Well that's an interesting calculation Ron. I just painted my jeep with a mid range polyurethane and that cost $500 per gallon, you're saying I could have just bought a bunch of spray cans?

As a frequent user of spray bombs, I've noticed a wide range of quality amongst the cans available. Big A Auto Parts used to have their own line of spray paints and I remember them being rather good. What I've been using lately is Ace Hardware's house brand spray paints. It's $6 a can with a adjustable fan spray button; and the paint is OK too. Warming up the can helps also. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov. 2022 at 9:08pm
Originally posted by otto otto wrote:

......you're saying I could have just bought a bunch of spray cans?

I didn't say that at all Otto.

I think you should buy whatever makes you happy.



Edited by Ron D - 04 Nov. 2022 at 9:09pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hammer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2022 at 8:00pm
Just terrific.  Greatly appreciated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct. 2023 at 12:18am

I attempted a paint project at the complete opposite end of the spectrum from my jeep paint job; the car trailer. It was my dad’s trailer and spent the last twenty years at the coast. It was under cover but in that environment it doesn’t make much of a difference. Dad bought it new in 1988 and it sat outside before they moved. Lest to say it was a bit rusty.


This summer I gave it a half-ass sandblasting to knock the big chunks off and then gave it a coat of Ospho to “treat” the rust. Then it got some OMNI epoxy primer, and then…here’s the punch line- tractor paint! Because I was feeling frugal, I bought the cheapest paint I could find; Majic enamel and the catalyst to go with it. It was like wet cement in the can and took a lot of mixing to get it consistent. 


The directions for use are a bit mystical, maybe that’s the “majic” of it. They say to add the catalyst and spray away; maybe add a small amount of their expensive reducer if you want. If you did this, it would come out of the gun like a cobweb, if at all.  I had to cut it about 40% with Xylene. I chose Xylene because I read the MSDS sheet and it already contained it and again, frugal. A gallon of Xylene costs the same as a pint of their reducer and dries a bit slower than other solvents. It was still a bit thick at this reduction, but thought it safe to spray with plenty of air pressure. I reached for a primer gun with a 1.7mm tip which sprayed it OK.




Gave the trailer a good two coats and called it good. It was not a fun thing to paint with all the sides of the structure to cover, so I hope it holds up. We’ll see.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote willyt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct. 2023 at 8:44am
Well it sure looks nice!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct. 2023 at 1:23pm
Originally posted by willyt willyt wrote:

Well it sure looks nice!
Thanks! It's died back a little and lost a bit of gloss this morning, but shinier than expected. Dry to the touch but a little soft still. 

This paint job was more about protection than luster.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct. 2023 at 5:41pm
dude, you do nice work!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Oct. 2023 at 4:36pm
Originally posted by bight bight wrote:

dude, you do nice work!
Thank you kindly, sir!

You know I only take pictures from the best angles, right? Wink 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Oct. 2023 at 9:58pm
of course!
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