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otto View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb. 2021 at 1:05am
Hey here's a question for readers: is it better to place photos first and then follow with text, or text first and then the photo?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb. 2021 at 1:10am
text
photo

works for me. but if others prefer opposite, i can deal.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepFever Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb. 2021 at 3:24am
Originally posted by bight bight wrote:


text
photo


+1   I agree

I like:

text
photo
<space>
<space>

ie.  leave plenty of space to make it clear which photo the text goes with.

The way you have been posting so far seems easy to read for me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb. 2021 at 4:12am

Metal cutting tools: this is a small nibbler for cutting sheet metal, it spits out little sharp crescent shaped bits that usually find their way into my shoes.




Cut-off tool: use with a thin 3” disc to slice through metal; spins very fast, makes lots of sparks. Or use it with a thicker disc to grind in a more surgical fashion. I actually reach for this tool often. The whip hose allows the tool user to get into areas that might not allow the tool to reach if it only had the hose coupler. I use these on smaller air ratchets too.





Electric shear: never used one of these in a body shop, but have discovered they are useful for making jeep repair panels and cutting pole building tin. 

Grinders; large, small- good for paint removal prior to filler and grinding metal, but the large one is useful for flattening out highs and lows similar to a body file if the metal is thick enough- such as after putting on a door skin.




This is one of my favorites and was one of the cheapest tools I’ve ever bought. A little back story- I was working my first body shop job and accumulating tools. There was this young person who would come around once in a while and try to sell us new tools out of the trunk of his car. They were imported and super cheap and I didn’t ask where he got them. I did buy a die grinder in addition to this tool. I just call it the stripper wheel tool. It has a drill chuck on a 5” grinder and spins up to 20K rpm. It’s useless for drilling, but if you chuck up one of these 3M abrasive wheels in it, it is transformed into a miracle machine! The wheel will remove paint, seam sealer, undercoating, bed liner, glues, really anything in its path yet not gouge up the metal. The best use I’ve found for this tool is finding spot welds, it’s amazing!






Edited by otto - 02 Sep. 2021 at 12:02am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb. 2021 at 10:08am
I inherited an extensive Martin hammer/tool assortment. I know how to use the basic hammers and dollies. But there are tools in that kit that I honestly didn't know the purpose of - until today! So thank you for this! Great information! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb. 2021 at 12:10am
Thanks nofender, I'm glad you're getting something out of this. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb. 2021 at 3:08am

I have a MIG welder that I would drag around from shop to shop because the shop welders were usually in a state of disrepair and required work before you could use them. This is a Solar 2175 (made by Century) 220V unit with 130 amps, works well for sheet metal and can fabricate thicker metal; just not a lot of it. It has a cool weld timer feature that I’ve only used once- welding little bumps on the clutch and brake pedals in my jeep. I use 0.023” wire in it.




This is a Porter Ferguson porta power set that I spent an insane amount of 1988 dollars on, but it will last my lifetime and is/was top of the line. Buying good tools only hurts once and are a pleasure to use every time after. 






This friction jack is a super handy tool that can be used to push things around that don’t require the strength of the porta power. It can pull together also, think High Lift jack.




Morgan knocker set- this is a must have and can be used for multiple things. Your imagination is the only limit. Do NOT hang onto the end while using!


ses


Edited by otto - 05 Oct. 2021 at 6:55pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drm101 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb. 2021 at 12:45pm
My Granddad worked at GM truck and bus doing body work on aluminum bodied buses. I inherited his hammers and dolly's, and I too now have a better idea how to use them. I need one of those spoons, and a body file, and a slapping file, and the knocker set. Who doesn't need a knocker set? I'll have to keep an eye out. Thanks Otto!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote willyt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb. 2021 at 1:50pm
Hey Otto.... really enjoying your work! Keep it up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb. 2021 at 3:47pm
 Who doesn't need a knocker set? I'll have to keep an eye out. [/QUOTE]

I always have an eye out for a knocker set! Wink


Edited by otto - 04 Feb. 2021 at 7:01pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb. 2021 at 8:34pm
I heard due to COVID that Hooters had started a delivery only called Knockers.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb. 2021 at 3:42am

Pogo stick- probably mainly used in a collision repair situation. Can be handy for making light pulls to gain access to damaged areas such as a smashed core support, bumper, etc. It can also take a twist out of a bent bumper end or whatever you can think of.




Improvised tools- every bodyman has these for those situations where nothing in the toolbox will work- mostly for making pulls. A lot of doing body work is being creative and using whatever you can find to get a job done. Drive bars are old axle shafts.




Sanding boards- 3M yellow plastic ones share stick-it sandpaper with the air board and I have one for 36 and 80 grit. Super great for making filler straight, I’ve pushed both of these across the country. The blocks with the clips are for non stick sandpaper, the white plastic one I use for wet sanding. The Dura Block is mid-sized and I use it for both filler work and blocking primer with stick-it 150 grit. One of the best sanding tools is also the cheapest; a wooden stir stick. Get the good ones from a paint store and cut to ½ the length of a piece of long board paper. Cut the paper in half lengthwise and fold over- super handy!  

Always use a block or pad when sanding-especially when wet sanding; if you use your hand only you run the risk of putting finger grooves into your work.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote willyt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb. 2021 at 1:58pm
So instead of changing the papers grit on one sanding tool you like to have a dedicated sanding tool for a particular grit. I can see the time savings in that procedure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb. 2021 at 11:19pm

Spreaders- I have this assortment of spreaders for applying plastic filler. I was taught to use metal knives with handles early on and continue to use them today. I find mixing filler so much easier and cleaner using the knives and often mix and spread with the same tool. I will reach for plastic ones occasionally for certain areas where I can bend the plastic spreaders to fit a curve or mimic the shape of the panel. I also have some 6” metal spreaders without handles that work great for applying large quantities of filler over a big area. Try to put the stuff on as best as you can during this stage as it’s easier to sand off; especially if you’re sanding by hand without power tools. This takes a while to master because it needs to be applied quickly if it’s hot or humid out (or both) as the filler will quickly set up in these conditions.





Mixing Board- I have two of these aluminum sheets for mixing filler, I also have a big piece of flat glass from a VW bus for those big jobs.  I’ve seen folks use cardboard and other materials, but if they’re porous they will absorb some of the filler’s resins. I always have thinner or Acetone on hand for cleaning the knives and board after every use, that’s just how I’ve always worked. A clean board and knives make the next time just that much easier. (Note: the knives’ handles are made of wood, plastic handles will dissolve when cleaning with solvents).

I wanted to demonstrate how I work with filler for this thread, but I’m not at a point of doing so on my project yet and I don’t have great photos of past projects. So stay tuned, we’ll get to that. But if you have immediate questions, feel free to ask away.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb. 2021 at 11:25pm
Originally posted by willyt willyt wrote:

So instead of changing the papers grit on one sanding tool you like to have a dedicated sanding tool for a particular grit. I can see the time savings in that procedure.

It does save a little time to have two different grits on boards, but the main reason is to not waste sandpaper. The paper really only sticks good and flat once, and to take a good, sharp piece off just to change grits is wasteful- especially now that I'm buying the materials!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote willyt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb. 2021 at 11:57pm
Got it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2021 at 3:35am
I found a new use for the body spoon today. When I would make repair panels and fold over a flange using a hammer, it would end up stretching the flange and put a slight curve in the finished panel that I would have to carefully straighten. Using the spoon lessened the stretching and the panels came out straighter. It was better to be out using tools rather than just talking about them.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2021 at 3:51am

Just some ramblings on frame work before moving on to other topics:


Because a vehicle’s frame is the foundation and platform for the body, it is critical that the frame be correct dimensionally. There are four basic conditions that frames can be found in after a collision or extreme abuse:

  • Sag 

  • Mash

  • Sway

  • Diamond

These can exhibit alone or in combination of conditions based on the dynamics of how the vehicle incurred the damage. I’ll go through these individually-


Sag- sometimes evidenced by a buckle or bulge on the top of the frame rail and where the rail is low compared to the other undamaged side or compared to known measurements. A common place to see this condition is near the cowl or behind the bumper


Mash-  sometimes evidenced by a buckle or bulge on the bottom of the frame rail and where the rail is high compared to the other undamaged side or compared to known measurements. A common place for this to present is over the axles.


Sway- when both or one of the frame rails is knocked right or left from it’s normal dimension, buckles or bulges can be present on the sides of the rails when the damage is severe.


Diamond- when one frame rail is ahead of the other throughout the frame’s length; this is a rare condition.


I won’t be doing any demonstrations of frame repairs, but hopefully I can explain how to diagnose a suspected bent frame so you could attempt repairs or take your vehicle to a frame shop if you want/need to.

Jeeps have a simple ladder style frame and if you have the original service manual, there is a frame section that may have dimensions. The simplest and most informative tool will be a tape measure. 


The first and most important dimension to get correct in a frame repair is the length; without both frame rails at the correct length, the other measurements will be meaningless. Just measuring for square without measuring length first could mask an out-of-square condition where you could get a “square” measurement, but one of the rails could be short.


Measuring factory symmetrical holes in the frame is generally your best reference point in comparing the frame rails; start measuring at an undamaged section of the frame and work towards the damage.

The order of repair would be to correct length, height, and then sway. If you are really good at this, you may be able to correct some or all of the conditions at once. Correcting a sway condition really requires a set of self-centering gauges to get right, or some extensive measuring for “square”. 

The easiest thing to do is to compare both sides of the frame to each other or known measurements, or compare to your buddy’s undamaged jeep


Direct and indirect damage: 


Direct damage= the obvious bent and crumpled part; 

Indirect Damage= the not so obvious damaged part, usually further back from the direct damage without bent and crumpled parts, but still dimensionally out of spec.


I have seen many times on enthusiast forums where folks are attempting to repair a damaged vehicle by simply cutting off the damaged part and replacing it with a new section. I rarely see anyone make any pulls to first correct the damage. If you pull out the direct damage, there is a good chance you will correct a lot of the indirect damage and your parts will fit better.


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