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JVanDo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JVanDo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec. 2021 at 12:08pm
I'm in.  Just spent the last hour looking for those hammers on ebay.  looking forward to following this.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GunnyLowe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb. 2022 at 7:44pm
All,
My 48 2A, has been an adventure to say the least. Many challenges... and skills that I may or may not have in my toolbox.
Lately, I have been working on the fenders. I fabricated new panels which turned out amazing!  But to my detriment, putting together the assembly's using my Mig to spot weld. Lets just say that I use my grinder to remove the crappy welds. Im getting disgusted.
Im using a Lincoln 140C with .030, 75/25....but just cant figure out how my settings to put it all together.

So Im asking all of the knowledge base out there the techniques to get this done so I can move on.

Gunny    
GunnyLowe

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GunnyLowe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb. 2022 at 7:46pm
All,
My 48 2A, has been an adventure to say the least. Many challenges... and skills that I may or may not have in my toolbox.
Lately, I have been working on the fenders. I fabricated new panels which turned out amazing!  But to my detriment, putting together the assembly's using my Mig to spot weld. Lets just say that I continuously use my grinder to remove the crappy welds. Im getting disgusted.
Im using a Lincoln 140C with .030, 75/25....but just cant figure out how my settings to put it all together.

So Im asking all of the knowledge base out there the techniques to get this done so I can move on.

Gunny    
GunnyLowe

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otto View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb. 2022 at 8:55pm
I've always used 0.023" wire for auto body repairs, maybe try some of that. Without some photos of your welds, it's hard to offer advice on what to try. So I'll start with some questions- do you use a regulator or a flow meter for the shielding gas? What is the setting? What exactly makes your welds "crappy"?

It could be many things.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drm101 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb. 2022 at 8:38am
I have basically the same welder and also use .023 wire. Send some pics! I'm guessing you're welding the brackets on. I think if I was doing that, I would drill holes in the bracket, clamp the bracket to the sheetmetal so there is no gap between bracket and sheetmetal, then fill the drilled holes in the bracket with the welder. That way all the welding is on the back side of the sheetmetal and the bracket acts as a heat sink. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GunnyLowe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb. 2022 at 9:48am
Thanks for the suggestion of .023, Ill pick some up today.

Ill figure out how to post pics as soon as I can, but in the meantime....Ill try and describe my situation.

Well as Im sure that yall know, when replacing panels in the fenders, I had to remove the original spot welds to separate the sheet metal.  
In reverse, as I fabricated the the components, I drilled a 1/4 in hole in the first piece and clamped the section together. My thinking was as I filled up the whole, the weld would "attach" to the bottom piece, therefore creating a spot weld.

What is happening, is Im filling the whole fine, but I guess the heat/weld is not getting into the bottom piece. So then I have to grind and drill a new whole and start over again.

In answer to your question, I do have a regulator and its currently set to deliver 17 L/min.
Welder settings are currently....wire speed is 1 1/2 on a scale of 1-10. Voltage is set at H on a scale of A-J.

I have been raising the voltage a little at a time to get the weld to penetrate into the bottom piece. Those setting are where im at right now.

Gunny
   
GunnyLowe

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb. 2022 at 10:38am
Sounds like you're describing a plug weld. I can offer a few suggestions. 

The 1/4" hole is a good starting point, sometimes I'll upsize that to 5/16" or so to ensure a solid weld.

The bottom piece should be clean, shiny metal with a good ground.

The two pieces should be clamped as closely together as possible.

I'm not familiar with your welder or its settings, but sometimes you'll have to just weld and turn the heat or wirespeed knobs at the same time until you hear a "sizzling" sound; use some scrap metal for this.

Try some of these if you haven't already; it may be a difference in technique that's causing an issue. My style is to turn the heat up hotter than typically used for welding a bead and then pulse or trigger my welds. Check the backside of the bottom piece, you should be seeing obvious penetration there. I generally use a hotter heat setting for plug welds so they don't break as you describe. It's really discouraging to hear the "pop" as the metal cools and you know a weld didn't take, but you don't know which one.

If you are using a weld-through primer between the metal pieces (recommended), welding will be easier if the primer is completely dry.


Edited by otto - 03 Feb. 2022 at 10:39am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GunnyLowe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb. 2022 at 3:02pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GunnyLowe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb. 2022 at 3:04pm
Otto,
If you can see the three pics, this was some scrap 18ga , so that I can figure out what Im not doing... Any ideas?   
GunnyLowe

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb. 2022 at 5:32pm
Thanks for posting the photos, that helps a lot.

The metal is obviously clean and firmly clamped together, but your welds are clearly not holding. The welds look to me cold and a little dirty. Not just the brown/black soot, but I'm looking at the weld itself and it appears like the weld has some porosity to it. 

If you grind these welds, do you see voids or bubbles in the weld? Is this after you switched to the 0.023" wire? Is the wire itself clean or rusty at all?

I would try this:
Increase the heat setting and turn the gas pressure/volume up. You should be able to stick together 18 gauge quite easily.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JVanDo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb. 2022 at 7:50pm
You are providing an awesome Willys specific information database here. Great job!  I’ve spent the last month tracking down Proto and Snap-on hammers on Marketplace and EBay.

Edited by JVanDo - 03 Feb. 2022 at 7:52pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb. 2022 at 9:46pm
Originally posted by JVanDo JVanDo wrote:

You are providing an awesome Willys specific information database here. Great job!  I’ve spent the last month tracking down Proto and Snap-on hammers on Marketplace and EBay.
 

Well you can't go wrong with those.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drm101 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb. 2022 at 1:52pm
On my Snap-On 140 welder, the wire speed with .023 usually ends up around the same number as the heat. So if my heat is set to 8, the wire speed is usually 7-9. I'd turn up your wire speed some as well as the heat. That sizzling sound that Otto mentioned is key. Also keep in mind that if it's cold outside it will affect your welds. Best to heat the metal to at least room temp before you start welding. I like to start the arc on the drilled piece then work toward the center of the hole and then make a circle to fill the hole. 

Edited by drm101 - 04 Feb. 2022 at 1:53pm
Dean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Terry Fairchild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb. 2022 at 3:14pm
Looks to me to be a cover gas issue. If the steel is clean and rust free, the weld should be bright and shiny. Those beads appear to be porous which is a sign of contamination,either crud or oxygen.
Try increasing flow. 
Also, make sure the gas line from the flow meter to the welder is tight with no leaks. A slight leak in this line can aspirate air in through the leak.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GunnyLowe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb. 2022 at 3:33pm
Great advice guys, Ill try all and will let you know.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JVanDo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb. 2022 at 3:40pm
You could probably host a whole other section on just MIG welding. I’m forever questioning my crappy welds, increasing gas (up to 25 now), wire speed and heat, checking the chart inside my welder, doing a better job of keeping surfaces clean, adjusting my hand speed, distance from the weld, angle of the MIG tip, jelly for the tip, checking the head. And now I’m seeing you recommend a different wire size. Many factors to adjust and compensate for here
MILLER has some good images and symptoms of what common mistake made and what they look like- and I have many samples of that!  https://www.millerwelds.com/resources/article-library/the-most-common-mig-weld-defects-on-aluminum-and-steel-and-how-to-avoid-them


Edited by JVanDo - 04 Feb. 2022 at 4:41pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Siskiwit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb. 2022 at 6:09pm
Also check the gas connection after the feed rollers inside the cover and make sure that it’s on the hose barb securely. It will leak there and make your welds look like moon rocks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JVanDo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb. 2022 at 6:26pm
Why does .024 work better than .030 or .035? Assuming solid
Wire with 75/25? Looking at the chart in my Hobart 110 welder and seeing that it’s not recommended for anything over 12 ga thick- becs it gets too hot and or cratering? I think I just answered my own question.  When doing patches, do you weld and grind from both sides or just the finish side. Any suggestions or links to doing patches, process, air, wiping etc that you might recommend?
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