Forum Home Forum Home > CJ-2A Discussion Area > General Discussion
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Brake light switch
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Brake light switch

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
Steelyard Blues View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Oct. 2017
Location: Reno, NV
Status: Offline
Points: 1483
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Brake light switch
    Posted: 26 Jan. 2022 at 11:04pm
I was checking my brake lights tonight and discovered I have none. I'm guessing that the switch has gone bad, again. This will be the third one. I cannot recall where I got the last one and what the part number is. I do know that it was a non-original with male terminals. I would like to just do a swap while I'm under there. Would anyone happen to have a good part number for a replacement?

Thanks,
Micah

Edit: Looks like I may have answered my own question, some digging came up with ECHSL134 or SLS27T. Anyone able to confirm? 


Edited by Steelyard Blues - 26 Jan. 2022 at 11:26pm
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
Back to Top
cpt logger View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 23 Sep. 2012
Location: Western Colorad
Status: Offline
Points: 3022
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2022 at 2:35am
Micah, Three bad switches? I would look for an intermittent short in the wiring. Possibly a crack in the insulation on a wire that contacts the frame when you hit a bump.

Unless you are buying China crap, I suspect that there is a reason that this switch is failing. It is usually caused by pulling too many amps through the switch. The high amperage is almost always caused by a short to ground. Look the wiring over closely, also look at the socket assembly for the brake lights(s). If the puck at the bottom of a socket breaks up due to age or abuse, it can short out there, so remove the bulb(s) & look at that.

The turn signal switch, if you have one, usually has the brake light circuit flow through it, so it needs a look see.

Let us know what you find please. TIA, Cpt Logger.
Back to Top
ndnchf View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 2

Joined: 22 Sep. 2017
Location: Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 2177
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2022 at 4:46am
This is why I changed over to a mechanical brake light switch. Problem solved. 
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
Back to Top
TMRoper View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 23 Aug. 2016
Location: Oklahoma
Status: Offline
Points: 191
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TMRoper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2022 at 7:00am
I also used the mechanical switch and haven't looked back, on three jeeps ,always works!
Back to Top
ndnchf View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 2

Joined: 22 Sep. 2017
Location: Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 2177
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2022 at 7:19am
There are several previous threads about the mechanical switch conversion. Not only is it more reliable, but it is easy to do and requires no change in the wiring. When I did mine, I just pulled the wires off the old switch and moved them over to the new mechanical switch.  Easy Peasy.

Here is one of several threads about it:

1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
Back to Top
oldtime View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep. 2009
Location: Missouri
Status: Offline
Points: 4140
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2022 at 9:04am
Several years back I also incurred several bad brake lights switches. 
I had just wired the Jeep myself and believed it must be a quality control issue. 
So I bought up s bunch of NOS brake light switches (Delco Remy and Borg Warner) with zero problems since then.
I do have a good used switch in the for sale column but it may not have the posts that you want ???
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

Back to Top
Steelyard Blues View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Oct. 2017
Location: Reno, NV
Status: Offline
Points: 1483
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2022 at 11:48am
Wow, lots of input on this one.

I may have my switch count off. Upon rethinking it, I believe what is in there now is a replacement of what came with the Jeep when I got her. I don't know where I got the replacement. So, quality is unknown.

I made a full harness from scratch with all soldered connections and shrink tube. The wires to the taillights are in the original style asphalt conduit. The running lights work at the lamps and trailer socket. I don't think this is a wiring issue but will check to make sure a wire did not come off the switch.

When they failed last time, the switch solved it. I'm assuming it is the same issue. I will just get the Napa replacement before I crawl under. If the switch is not it, I will have a replacement on the shelf. 

Micah
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
Back to Top
General Eisenhower View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 24 Aug. 2018
Location: DE
Status: Offline
Points: 1692
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote General Eisenhower Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2022 at 12:08pm
I might have to look into a mechanical switch, but I'll try switching the one I currently have and hope for the best, if it fails me Ill transition

Edited by General Eisenhower - 27 Jan. 2022 at 12:09pm
I Like Ike!
1948 CJ2a "Hefty Horse"
1994 Jeep Wrangler Sahara
2016 Jeep JKU 75th anniversary edition
Back to Top
oldtime View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep. 2009
Location: Missouri
Status: Offline
Points: 4140
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2022 at 12:15pm
Go to eBay and search NOS  S193 or S193 switch.
Also Delco Remy 4765.


Edited by oldtime - 27 Jan. 2022 at 12:26pm
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 7923
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2022 at 2:00pm
The only thing with a mechanical switch I have found is that you need to make sure your pedal sealing setup does not prevent the pedal arm from coming full up. As this can leave the brake lights on or delay their activation when the brakes are applied. A good strong pedal return spring is a way to prevent this. Other then that I really like my Mechanical Switch.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Steelyard Blues View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Oct. 2017
Location: Reno, NV
Status: Offline
Points: 1483
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2022 at 6:53pm
So, I checked the connections, nothing. Jumped the switch, lights. Verdict: Dead switch. 

As for power draw, all my bulbs are LED. So, they use almost nothing. I think the switch was just junk. 

I forgot how much of a treat these are to replace. First you get to fight the heat shield. Then the fun part is getting the switch out. What genius made the switch so that you can get a 1" wrench on it but not a 1" socket? I had to jam some paper in the socket to get it to work. Otherwise, almost impossible to get the wrench in there. 

I used the Napa ECHSL134. $13 Says it is made in Mexico. 

Micah


Edited by Steelyard Blues - 27 Jan. 2022 at 7:00pm
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
Back to Top
Bruce W View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 29 July 2005
Location: Northeast Colorado
Status: Online
Points: 9611
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2022 at 9:29pm
  Hecho en Mejico. That’s the good stuff, these days. 
BW 
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.06
Copyright ©2001-2022 Web Wiz Ltd.