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Brake Pedal Arm

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Steelyard Blues View Drop Down
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    Posted: 08 Jan. 2021 at 12:56am

One of the things on the list to replace is the brake pedal arm and frame support. The side-to-side motion is getting annoying.

I found some NOS brake pedal arms on eBay but I’m concerned that they fit. The seller is indicating they fit a range of models and list a part number of 647635, which is cast into the arm. The 2A parts book indicates the arm to be 647636. Anyone know if they are interchangeable and/or what differences there are?

Brake Pedal Arm for MB/GPW M38 M38A1 & CJ JEEPS Original NOS #647635 | eBay

Also, Army Jeep Parts sells the frame bracket. Anyone used this one? Any issues? Anything better?

Bracket Pedal Shaft to Frame with bushing assembly A-493 (armyjeepparts.com)

Thanks,

Micah

1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote outlw21 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan. 2021 at 2:13am
I copied the Willys fix kit and it is a game changer on my jeep. Used 5/16 threaded rod instead of 3/8 and fabbed the washers for the ends.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan. 2021 at 3:09pm
Micah,
I have a tendency to smash things that hang down under my jeep like the pedal cross shaft tube bracket thingy. I got really tired of grinding them off and welding them on again so I went to the bolt on style that came on later models. It works fine. You just have to be careful in marking your locations and getting your holes drilled properly, but unscrewing a couple of bolts is lots easier than grinding and welding and painting. 


Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan. 2021 at 3:14pm
I have used the frame bracket that you show pictured on Ol' Red to replace one worn out over the years that I have owned her. It took all the slack out of the side to side movement on the brake pedal and I was satisfied with the part. I did have to ream out the bushing because it was just a little too tight.
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan. 2021 at 3:20pm
The casting number on a part doesn't necessarily indicate a part number, it could be the right part. The casting number is often used at a factory to identify a raw part before it is machined to the finished product. The raw casting might be used on several different finished pieces each with a slightly different design and end use. The casting number tells the machinist that he is starting with the right casting blank.
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan. 2021 at 6:19pm
There are some differences between early (MB through CJ2A) and later pedal arms, but adaptations can be made fairly easy.

If memory serves, the later ones as used on the CJ3 series Jeeps have a slightly different bend to them, and the pivot pin for the brake cylinder push rod is bigger, so you have to use the later push rod.

The brackets also differ, as Stan points out. Some differences in the cross tubes too, but I don't know what will interchange on those.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan. 2021 at 11:35pm
Stan,
Thanks for the suggestion but I don't think my off road experiences will be anything near yours. I don't mind doing the welding. I just purchased a TIG machine and I'm learning to use it. The reason to purchaser the arm now is because I have some eBay bucks to burn up from purchasing the TIG machine.

Kansas,
Army Jeep Part's description indicates that he is reaming them to fit. So, hopefully that is not longer an issue. 

I mentioned the casting number because I also question if it is a casting number and not a part number. Interesting that it is only one off from the actual part number. I crawled up under my 2A and took some pictures of the arm. It has some numbers but not the part number or the one listed on the eBay ad. 

Old Pappy,
I'm hoping to avoid any modifications by getting it right the first time. This is not a part that I have to have to have now. I see several vendors selling one under part number 800527 with various descriptions as to what it fits: 
Then Debella sells 800527 but when you look at the photo it has 647635 cast into it:
To increase the confusion, Army Jeep Parts lists part number A1328 for the CJ2A

I searched the numbers on the paper tag in the ad but came up dry. I tried the Willys part number in the ad, 647635, but came up with no references. I did come across Walck's selling an arm under the same number: 

Confused? I am. 

Micah
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan. 2021 at 12:36am
I got an email from Walck the other day. He never noticed the discrepancy in part numbers and was using 647635 because it was the number cast into the arm. He suspected it was a typo in the parts book. Who knows?

One good thing about looking at parts books, diagrams and crawling under mine is that I discovered the innermost tube washer is missing. So, I have replacements on order along with all the parts to do the complete job. Hopefully, I can just replace the washer for now and save the rest when I someday restore her. 

Micah  
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2021 at 1:12pm
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

Micah,
I have a tendency to smash things that hang down under my jeep like the pedal cross shaft tube bracket thingy. I got really tired of grinding them off and welding them on again so I went to the bolt on style that came on later models. It works fine. You just have to be careful in marking your locations and getting your holes drilled properly, but unscrewing a couple of bolts is lots easier than grinding and welding and painting. 



  Good to know - I am at this point in my '47 rebuild & have been wondering if the # 801662 M38A1 type bracket will work -
 
www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Willys-M38A1-M38-Pedal-Shaft-Bracket-NEW-OLD-STOCK-801662-7697452-/202233711834

 It seems to me that if you are going with a bolt on that it would be easier to get it on straight with this type.

1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty"
1964 Thunderbird convertible
..... & one of them moves under it's own power!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2021 at 2:58pm
Looks like the military might have gotten tired of grinding them off too.

I plan to use the M38 version on my build, mainly because I already had one, but I think the bolt on design is a better one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepFever Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2021 at 3:34pm
Never knew about different designs.       I assume that threaded hole is for grease fitting?   Seems like that would be better on the side?   Otherwise would be easily torn off.

Photo from the Walck's link that Stan provided.



Looks like the M38 one might be a little better protected.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2021 at 7:37pm
Originally posted by JeepFever JeepFever wrote:

Never knew about different designs.       I assume that threaded hole is for grease fitting?   Seems like that would be better on the side?   Otherwise would be easily torn off.


Hah, almost all my grease fittings get torn off.
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2021 at 8:30pm
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

Originally posted by JeepFever JeepFever wrote:

Never knew about different designs.       I assume that threaded hole is for grease fitting?   Seems like that would be better on the side?   Otherwise would be easily torn off.


Hah, almost all my grease fittings get torn off.

 Wonder why ??  Tongue
 
 
1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty"
1964 Thunderbird convertible
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb. 2021 at 7:19pm
I replaced the missing washer the other day. It helped to take out some of the slop. The frame bracket for the tube is on back order. So, it will be a while before I look to install it. It may be quite a while before I do. It looks like a pain to do. 

I also got a pedal arm from Walck, 647635. So, hopefully it goes in without any modification. 

Micah
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb. 2021 at 2:18am
I have an in needed weld on

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1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty"
1964 Thunderbird convertible
..... & one of them moves under it's own power!!
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