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Brake Pedal Wobble and bushings...

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Jeff_Davis View Drop Down
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    Posted: 01 Dec. 2015 at 1:57pm
Now that my CJ2A is running again, I have noted how bad the brake pedal play is at the support shaft.  When I assembled it, I saw the oval shape the brake pedal casting had worn to, over the years.  I used some shimming material and took some of the slop out of the pedal, but it isn't enough.   
The shaft appears OK, with only slight wear, a testament to the metal hardening process of 70 years ago!!
In the W-O 1965 Service Manual (pg. 156)  they speak of a "pedal slack adjuster kit".  I assume this is some sort of bushing fitted to the cast iron pedal??
Is there some way to fit a bushing to the pedal to save it?  Is there a part number and source for such a bushing?  Anybody done this fix?
I can buy a reproduction pedal, but being in Argentina means putting a big heavy part in my luggage to get it here from the USA...  not the best solution for me. 
I searched, but couldn't find anything specific in the forum, but I am sure this must have been addressed before?
thanks, Jeff
Jeff
1947 Willys CJ2A Las Flores, Provinca de Buenos Aires, Argentina
1951 Willys M38 Flightline jeep (Southeast Florida)
1954 M-100 USMC Trailer
1954 FORD F-100 parts chaser, 292 V8 Y-Block
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flatfender47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Dec. 2015 at 2:55pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tumbleweed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Dec. 2015 at 2:59pm
Jeff,
 
I have had both my brake and clutch pedal machined oversize and bushings installed to eliminate wobble. If you have a local machine shop available that you trust, take your clutch/brake shaft and both pedals to them so they can make an accurate fit.
Hope this helps
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeff_Davis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Dec. 2015 at 3:39pm
Flatfender, that is a great link on the Slack Adjuster Kit.  But without the two proprietary ends, I think it will be tough to duplicate.
 
Tumble, I am contemplating the machine shop approach.  Did you  use off the shelf bronze bushings, or did the shop source them?
Jeff
1947 Willys CJ2A Las Flores, Provinca de Buenos Aires, Argentina
1951 Willys M38 Flightline jeep (Southeast Florida)
1954 M-100 USMC Trailer
1954 FORD F-100 parts chaser, 292 V8 Y-Block
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pjensen641 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Dec. 2015 at 4:40pm
Get ready for some redneck machining here.  This is what I did.  I "machined" out my brake pedal and installed an "Oilite" bushing.  I got mine locally, but Mcmaster Carr has them too.  The bushing was a 1" ID X 1"long.  OD was 1 1/8".  You will see that I should have used a 1 1/4" long bushing.

First, I checked a straight bur in to my benchtop drill press.  Then I raised the bed while holding the pedal face flat against it and preceded to make circular motions against the burr to remove material.  All the while, I made sure to keep constant speed and pressure on my circular motions.  Every few minutes I would stop and measure the diameter in several places to see how I was doing and if I was getting out-of-round.  It took about half an hour as I recall.


Then press the bushing in with a mandrel and drill a small grease port concentric with the old one.



It works great.  If it ever wears out again, I will install a wider one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote a4cj2a77 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Dec. 2015 at 4:55pm
That looks pretty darn good to me for machining by hand, better than I could do. bushing looks to fit well
Phil
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeff_Davis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Dec. 2015 at 6:26pm
Wow, that's a good solution, pjensen.  And I too am impressed with your hand machining. 
Did you drill the grease hole before or after pressing it in?
I will give this a go.
Thanks
Jeff
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1947 Willys CJ2A Las Flores, Provinca de Buenos Aires, Argentina
1951 Willys M38 Flightline jeep (Southeast Florida)
1954 M-100 USMC Trailer
1954 FORD F-100 parts chaser, 292 V8 Y-Block
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pjensen641 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Dec. 2015 at 7:33pm
I drilled the grease hole after.  Its smaller than the threaded zerk port.  I was afraid I might not get it aligned if I drilled it before.

The Oilite bushings are pretty forgiving.  They are porus bronze with oil impregnation, fairly soft.  The Burr left a bit of a rough surface on the inside.  I THINK, I went after it with a small sanding drum to finish up.  Once I was getting nearly to size, I would sand a little and check to see if I could start the bushing in.  Once I was able to start the bushing in, and it felt like I could press it all the way in without seizing up, I went for it.  I am not sure how much was luck, and how much was skill honestly Wink.  I recall being very please when it pressed in with just the right amount of force.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Dec. 2015 at 8:35pm
pjensen, Why do you say that you should have gone with a larger OD on the bushing? Did the bore not clean up? Inquiring minds want to know.

BTW, Good "Redneck", or is it "Reddnek", engineering! This looks great. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pjensen641 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Dec. 2015 at 8:45pm
The bore was fine, and I think you would not want to go to 1 1/4"OD.  The wall would get too thin.

It was the length of the bushing that could have been larger.  You can see that the pedal bore is wider than my bushing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Dec. 2015 at 9:00pm
Oops, on rereading the post, you do say that you would have gong longer, not bigger OD. My mistake, sorry.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeff_Davis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Dec. 2015 at 11:32pm
Measure twice, buy once!
 
Glad I get to do it after all the shade tree engineerin' is done.
 
Jeff
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1947 Willys CJ2A Las Flores, Provinca de Buenos Aires, Argentina
1951 Willys M38 Flightline jeep (Southeast Florida)
1954 M-100 USMC Trailer
1954 FORD F-100 parts chaser, 292 V8 Y-Block
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wheelie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec. 2015 at 12:13am
  Not sure how this would work. Shown is a 1 1/4 bit but, you get the idea. Just a thought. carry on.

http://www.amazon.com/Speed-Steel-Shank-Drill-drill/dp/B0007PZFTO
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec. 2015 at 1:13am
If you want to see how insane you can get upgrading the clutch and brake pedal pivot area go to The bottom of page three of my Blog on building Chug A Lug in the Projects section here:
 
 
To many photos and words to duplicate
 
But here is the finished assembly
 
 
 
 
 
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pjensen641 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec. 2015 at 3:50am
Originally posted by wheelie wheelie wrote:

  Not sure how this would work. Shown is a 1 1/4 bit but, you get the idea. Just a thought. carry on.

http://www.amazon.com/Speed-Steel-Shank-Drill-drill/dp/B0007PZFTO

Because of my crummy little drill press, I could not slow down far enough to use something like that.  I also seem to have terrible luck with bits grabbing too aggressively when I am trying to just take a small amount.  Lastly, I think drills tend to take just a little more material than the diameter, so I was afraid I might go over the limit and not get a pres fit.

If I had a good drill press, I probably would have at least tried going in a little bit and checked the resultant diameter.  Maybe someone will report back with success!

I did price out a reamer....holy crud.  Not something I would want to buy for just one job!  I would have had the speed issue as well again though.


Edited by pjensen641 - 02 Dec. 2015 at 3:52am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ralf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec. 2015 at 3:56am
Insane is right!  What beautiful work.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeff_Davis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec. 2015 at 8:42pm
OK, Mark, you win!  Damn, that is nice work...  certainly too nice for my jeep. 
Are those Oilite washers you made to act as spacer/washers on the pedals, or are they a McMaster Carr item??
Jeff
Jeff
1947 Willys CJ2A Las Flores, Provinca de Buenos Aires, Argentina
1951 Willys M38 Flightline jeep (Southeast Florida)
1954 M-100 USMC Trailer
1954 FORD F-100 parts chaser, 292 V8 Y-Block
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec. 2015 at 11:51pm
Originally posted by Jeff_Davis Jeff_Davis wrote:

OK, Mark, you win!  Damn, that is nice work...  certainly too nice for my jeep. 
Are those Oilite washers you made to act as spacer/washers on the pedals, or are they a McMaster Carr item??
Jeff
 
Jeff go to my Project thread on Chug A Lug
 
 
 and starting on the bottom of page 3 should be all the details. But yes if it looks like Oilite then it is. Also the narrow bushing with the two washers on either side (where the shaft brace attaches to the new Master Cylinder mount is also Oilite and everything has zerts to be greased.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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