brake pedal |
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vidaliaman
Member Joined: 23 July 2018 Location: gowen mi Status: Offline Points: 181 |
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Posted: 05 May 2020 at 2:12pm |
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my brake pedal has alot of left/right play, looking at it underneath looks like a bushing has worn, any idea part number? and replacement issues?
thanks dave
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TERRY
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2007 Location: BOULDER COLORADO Status: Offline Points: 3400 |
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BOULDER 48 2A
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vidaliaman
Member Joined: 23 July 2018 Location: gowen mi Status: Offline Points: 181 |
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thanks for the quick responce, got one coming!!!
dave
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Rus Curtis
Member Joined: 25 Mar. 2010 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 1733 |
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I had a bushing put in mine. After years of driving, I've noticed a bit of side play so sometime in the near future, it will be replaced. |
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Rus Curtis
Alabama 1954 CJ3B Bantam T3-C |
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Stev
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2389 |
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The actual brake pedal arm does not have a bushing in it. The clutch pedal tube that the brake pedal floats on has a bushing.
If the brake pedal arm has a lot of ware there is no replacement bushing for it.
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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Rus Curtis
Member Joined: 25 Mar. 2010 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 1733 |
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True.
Once upon a time, Turner 4WD sold them (that's where I got my first one
from) - a modification that worked pretty good for me. Now, you may have to go into a machine shop, explain what you need and get
one ordered and pressed in. Since mine has one, it's easier to order and replace (the
pedal is already reamed out to accept the bushing). The OP was asking about the brake pedal. Just adding an alternative approach. |
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Rus Curtis
Alabama 1954 CJ3B Bantam T3-C |
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shulls1stcj2a
Member Joined: 15 Oct. 2015 Location: modesto ca Status: Offline Points: 129 |
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I dont know if this will help I remember this post from a while ago. Took me some time to find it
Hey guys, I decided to fix my brake pedal arm slop after taking a look at the "kit" that Keith Layton managed to find at a swap meet. I searched the internet and found just one place selling the kit for $125! Yeah... I don't think so!
So today I headed to True Value and picked up a few things to make my own. After a few trips, I ended up using
1ea - 3/8" threaded rod cut to 9.25" 2ea - 3/8" nylon lock nuts 1ea - 1" ID galvanized pipe cap 2ea - 3/8" flat washers 1ea - washer from a shock absorber bushing kit (has the beveled edge) 2ea - 1/8" x 1.5" cotter pins (not necessary, but I thought I'd replace my old ones since they were brittle) 1) I started by cutting the pipe cap so that it was approximately 5/8" depth inside, measuring inside the cap. 2) drilled a 3/8" hole in the center of the cap for the bolt to fit through. 3) cut a section of the threaded rod to 9.25" length 4) removed the old nasty cotter pins and replaced with new, then ran a 1/2" diameter punch through the pivot shaft to bend the two cotter pins to the sides to allow the threaded rod to go through the pivot shaft. (Jeep's instructions say to use a screwdriver, but I found the punch worked better) 5) Put a nylon lock nut on one end of the threaded 9.25" rod, then a 3/8" flat washer, followed by the large beveled edge washer. (Beveled edge facing pivot shaft) 6) then from the outboard side, run the threaded rod through the pivot shaft 7) place the pipe cap on the inboard side of the pivot shaft running the threaded rod through the hole that was drilled in the center of the cap. 8) place a 3/8" flat washer then nylon lock nut on the inboard side of the threaded rod. 9) Tighten the assembly snug, then slightly back off so the pedal arms can move freely. 10) hit the grease zerts with some fresh grease. 11) That's it! Whoo hoot! You just saved yourself from buying an overpriced $125 kit As a side note, I am searching for a vendor that I can purchase a stainless steel end cap. I think stainless steel will hold up even better than the galvanized pipe cap, and I'd like to find one that is non-threaded 1" ID but still priced reasonably. I don't know how much demand there is for a kit like this, but i do have one extra that I fabricated. If there's more demand I can make additional sets. I think with materials, labor, and shipping I can send a kit to your door for about $30-35 using USPS priority mailer (in the USA). Shoot me a message if you'd like one. |
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TERRY
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2007 Location: BOULDER COLORADO Status: Offline Points: 3400 |
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That slack removing kit will work some. I made one years ago and used it until finally replacing the bracket. New parts were far better.
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BOULDER 48 2A
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PGoodman
Member Joined: 27 Jan. 2019 Location: Morrison, CO Status: Offline Points: 22 |
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Has anyone made one of these?
Thanks Paul |
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Paul Goodman
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
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Dad put one on my jeep back in the 60's when they were offered by Kaiser jeep as a fix. They do work. But I went much much farther in my Clutch Brake up grades if you look at pages 3-4 of my project thread You can see how far one can go to improve the stock set up. |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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