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Brake Upgrade - Best Option?

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Alpine View Drop Down
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    Posted: 26 Oct. 2022 at 10:18am
I have read a lot of the threads and there is a ton of info on upgrading brakes but it is not clear to me what is the easiest. I have a 48 with stock wheels and want to upgrade the easiest way possible. I don't want to grind anything, if possible, or change the wheels. I will never drive it over 35 so I am open to either drum or disc brakes. It seems most disc upgrades require new wheels. For drums is there a kit that will work with original wheels. I am hoping to avoid trying to track down a bunch of individual parts and just purchase a complete kit. 
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Agas46cj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Agas46cj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2022 at 10:22am
https://brennans-garage.com/products/copy-of-trackick-disc-brake-conversion-bracket-two-pair

You could do the Trackick brake conversion and buy the parts Bruce is selling on the for sale page. It looks reasonable in price and doesn’t look like it requires much in the way of mods. I plan on doing it to mine when I get it reassembled years from now. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2022 at 10:31am
My experience with multiple brake conversions - stock wheels won't work. I've ended up using spacers. I've done GM, Jeep and the Tracker conversions. 

Is there are reason drums in good shape and in good order won't serve your needs? My 46 is largely stock and the 9 inch drums will put you through the windshield. 

My other Jeeps that reach higher speeds all have dics. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2022 at 10:43am
Simplest is going to Jeep 10” Wagner drum brakes as were used on all 66-71 Dauntless CJ’s. 
Try and find a set with the self adjusters in tact.

Second easiest is going to 11” Jeep Bendix drum brakes as were used on all 1972-1975 CJ’s and several other Jeeps after 1971.
These are also self adjusting.

I use both depending on the Jeep.

Not required to change the master cylinder if you don’t want to  for either set.


Edited by oldtime - 26 Oct. 2022 at 10:47am
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Bruce W View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2022 at 10:43am
A little here, a little there, it adds up. A TracKick conversion with new calipers and rotors and a Wilwood master cylinder can reach $1,000 without labor. The entire 9” system could be replaced for less, I think. All of my jeeps have stock 9” brakes and stop well. 
BW 
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JohnB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2022 at 10:46am
You asked for easiest conversion and I would add straight forward. I did the 11” Bendix upgrade on all 4 corners and very pleased. I used some threads here to figure it all out. My 16” wheels fit fine with no spacers and the drums though larger look original. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote duffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2022 at 11:21am
I agree with nofender and Bruce, the 9" brakes work just fine in a stock Willys if in good condition and properly adjusted.  For a Jeep that will not likely see highway speed, more than adequate.  They will lock all four wheels up on dry pavement. BTDT

If you are intent on an up-grade, the 11" Bendix will likely be the cheapest route with basically no complications.  I ran those on my 3B for a number of years.  While the 10" CJ brakes Ken mentioned will work, pieces for those are approaching unobtanium status, are more expensive than the 11" parts, and obviously, a bit less performance potential.
1955 3B: 441sbc,AGE 4 speed transmission, Teralow D18w/Warn OD, 4.11:1 D44's/ARB's, glass tub & fenders, aluminum hood/grill, 8274, York OBA, Premier Power Welder; 67 CJ5: 225,T86AA, D18, 4.88's, OD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2022 at 3:46pm
As to whether 11" drums will clear stock wheels. The answer is, it depends on which stock wheels you have. 

The 16" KH wheels on my 47 CJ2A clear the drums without any problem. They are the non-finned drums. The 15" wheels on my 67 CJ5 would not clear the 11" drums I have on that Jeep, but they did clear 11" drums on John's CJ2A which is who I bought them from.

Drums are manufactured by several different companies, some suppliers list the thickness in their specs, some don't. What I found is some drums are thicker than others and the ones I bought were the thickest I found specs for. I just used 1" spacers on that Jeep to clear the drums.

As has been said the 9" brakes will stop the Jeep fine if kept in good order and adjustment, but I hate fooling with the older Lockheed brakes with the drums inboard of the hubs and the assembly held together with swaged studs. 

Another "upgrade" not mentioned is to change from the earlier Lockheed 9" to the later Bendix 9" with outboard drums and don't swage the studs as it is not neccessary. This is an upgrade because of 3 things. The Bendix design is self actuating (not self adjusting), there are only two adjustment eccentrics, and if the studs are not swaged are easier to service as you can remove drums without having to remove the hub assemblies. This would be an improvement and probably the cheapest upgrade you can do..

I have 11" drums on all four wheels on my CJ5, and on the CJ2A I have 11" front with 9" rear. Both stop very well.

The Jeep I am building will probably have 11" rear drums with discs up front.


Edited by Oldpappy - 26 Oct. 2022 at 3:56pm
If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 3A Steve Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2022 at 4:50pm
I think the easiest path to better brakes is to get softer compound shoes. I purchased some NOS unlined shoes from Fitzpatrick and sent them to Rochester Brake and Shoe. Asked for softer compound linings. They probably won't go 40,000 miles but they have gone a few thousand for me on my 3A and are a noticeable improvement. Was told this was what classic old car owners did to remain unmodified but still get decent stopping power. Did put discs on my 51 wagon and must say they are a totally different animal.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Barry S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2022 at 8:21pm
Hi Alpine,  after years of messing with drum brakes I went to disks on all 4 corners using Brennan's brackets on my 47 2A and we also  did my brother's 51 3B.  I would not do anything else now. I don't care that they don't look stock.  Confidence level is very high when hanging on rocks and ledges and after sticky mud I don't have to take anything apart - everything is wide open and pressure washes out easily.  I thought the conversion was easier than messing with drums and shoes and springs and adjusters ect..  All the parts were inexpensive and very available.  The only parts that I thought were expensive were the core charges on all the calipers if you don't have any to turn in. (I have a mechanic friend who let me steal calipers off junk cars out back to turn in as cores.)  The hardest part of the whole project was cutting the swedges and pressing the old studs out and that wasn't even that tough using a hole saw and shop press.  Everything else is pretty much just bolt on.  I did buy a Wilwood dual remote reservoir master cylinder but I still have not gotten around to installing it .  The original master works just fine but I do want the extra security of separate front and rear circuits.  I had to use 1" wheel spacers but actually like the slightly wider stance.  I don't even think about brakes anymore - there are no adjustments to mess with - they just work! 

-Barry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alpine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct. 2022 at 10:50am
Nevermind, I think I found what I was looking for.




Edited by Alpine - 27 Oct. 2022 at 1:59pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alpine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov. 2022 at 5:30pm
What brand caliper is the best option for the upgrade? There are too many different brands. I'm looking at the Geo Tracker upgrade.  Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov. 2022 at 6:24pm
geo tracker kit is a simple upgrade, works well and one that's easy to maintain. ALL upgrades have some sort of modification so choose your poison.  

I have the brennan's disc brake setup on all 4 corners. The rears have Electric E-brake.
Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EJs1950 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov. 2022 at 7:05pm
I have recently got to a point to install and test the Suzuki Samari /Geo tracker conversion. I am having issues with the brake pad retaining clips.
There is not enough room to install the clips. The diameter of the rotor does not leave enough gap between the rotor and the mounting bracket
to install the retaining clips. This problem is with the front and back. . Is anyone using the brake system without the retaining clips? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov. 2022 at 7:14pm
I had the same issue. I ended up "touching them up" with a Dremel. It didn't take alot. The trickier part is holding the clip steady so it doesn't fly off and cut you to ribbon when you try and clearance it. 

Be careful. I used a small clamp. Then used the vise to hold the clamp. 

I imagine you could just as easily hand file them. 
46 CJ2a rockcrawler
46 CJ2a - 26819
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov. 2022 at 7:41pm
  They are springy, probably hardened. I doubt you’re going to file them. They are an “anti-rattle” spring. Nothing will be lost if you leave them out but the pads may rattle. Will you hear it? Probably not. I’ll have to admit - on the last conversion I did, I turned the OD of the rotors down a bit. 
BW 
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EJs1950 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov. 2022 at 7:50pm
I will try to cut down on the clips. If that doesn't work. I will try to find a shop that can turn down the diameter of the rotor. If not I guess I'll see how bad the rattle noise will be. 
Thank you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldie but Goodie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov. 2022 at 4:47pm
I’m also in the process of doing the Geo Tracker disc conversion  from Brennan’s-Garage and am having trouble finding banjo bolts that would mate from the 85 accord soft line to the Tracker caliper? Anybody else have this issue ?? TIA p.s. I also have an E-stop electric brake I’d like to install how did you accomplish this on the rear??
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