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Brazing Brass

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ggordon49 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 25 Mar. 2020 at 4:22pm
Hello Everyone,

I'm repairing a timing cover oil fitting and I have a question.... Can I braze brass with the same flux and filler rod I use for copper?

Because I have those materials and we are in lock down, I would like to use what I have. Thank you in advance!


Ship of Theseus - As years go by wooden parts begin to rot and are replaced by new. After a century, all of the parts have been replaced. Is the "restored" ship still the same object as the original?
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar. 2020 at 4:39pm
Brass will braze, but watch for excessive heat. If you are attempting to braze what you have pictured, you risk melting the thin walls of the fitting before you can get the solder joint to fuse. I would use just enough of a small flame to heat the timing cover first to temperature around the base of the fitting and then move up to the fitting slowly while applying the solder. If you have some borax or boric acid this would keep the surfaces clean while the joint is soldered. You appear to have a nice clean tight fit.

BTW, It looks like your drill index needs some refills...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ggordon49 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar. 2020 at 4:47pm
Thank you so much for such a thorough response, really appreciate it! I will give it a go.... Yeah, I seem to break the little bits Embarrassed but mostly i just get lazy and throw them into a box...

Ship of Theseus - As years go by wooden parts begin to rot and are replaced by new. After a century, all of the parts have been replaced. Is the "restored" ship still the same object as the original?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar. 2020 at 8:02pm
I have fractional, letter, number and metric drill indexes and I always try keep them full. If I didn't put them in a drill index, I would never find them when I needed them. I also have a much bigger bit drawer that resembles yours except that yours is neater!

This comes from years and years as a mechanic and machinist.
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willyt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote willyt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar. 2020 at 8:37pm
What flux and filler rod are you using? To bond dissimilar metals silver solder should be used, EasyFlo is a trade brand, 45% silver.  Can be found as a wire using a white paste flux or as a rod with the flux affixed to the rod. Requires more heat to flow than the 50/50 or 95/5 typically used on copper to copper. A small ox/act outfit works best because you can get the joint hot quickly without burning up the fitting or surrounding area.
The rod would be the most practical to purchase. If interested check with a hvac shop or a hvac supply house. When the flux turns to a consistently like melted sugar the solder will flow. As soon as the joint is completed have a dripping wet rag handy and wipe down the joint. This will remove the flux which is acidic and will eat up the joint in time. Practice on a joint or two before attempting the final repair.

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47 deuce alpha View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 47 deuce alpha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar. 2020 at 8:38pm
[QUOTE=ggordon49]
Hello Everyone,

I'm repairing a timing cover oil fitting and I have a question.... Can I braze brass with the same flux and filler rod I use for copper?
Sounds like you may have Phosphor Bronze brazing rod. If so it has been in use for a long time and will bond with many different metals. Mild steel, cast, copper brass. Is the rod you are using flux coated or do you have a can of flux? As SE Kansas said it takes a little practice to get used to controlling the heat. I would suggest practicing on scrap before you try it on your timing cover. Are you using a an oxy-acetylene torch? A hand held propane torch may not generate enough heat. Stick brazing is something of an out-dated process, you might be able to find a youtube on it.
WillyT is spot on with the silver brazing(like what a jeweler uses) Brazing with bronze rod is a somewhat different concept.   

Edited by 47 deuce alpha - 25 Mar. 2020 at 8:43pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 47 deuce alpha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar. 2020 at 9:02pm

This might help to clarify: The white rod is Phos Bronze flux coated rod. The rod in the packs are silver brazing rod for copper or brass, used with the flux in the jar.
1947 CJ2A 90419
1947 CJ2A 127735
1949 Ford 8N
1955 Kaiser Willys Pickup
Half the distance takes you twice as long.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote willyt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar. 2020 at 9:29pm
If he can find the 45% it will flow at a much lower temp. The flux shown will work with the 45% solder. Heat control is critical when working with a thin steel metal. For a novice trying to use sil-fos for the first time there is a risk of blowing a hole in the cover. Also, cleanliness is very important for a good joint. The joint shown on the first post looks good as long as there is no absolutely no oil on the fitting or timing cover.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 47 deuce alpha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar. 2020 at 10:26pm
Originally posted by willyt willyt wrote:

If he can find the 45% it will flow at a much lower temp. The flux shown will work with the 45% solder. Heat control is critical when working with a thin steel metal. For a novice trying to use sil-fos for the first time there is a risk of blowing a hole in the cover. Also, cleanliness is very important for a good joint. The joint shown on the first post looks good as long as there is no absolutely no oil on the fitting or timing cover.

Again correct: SilFos 45 can be used on most ferrous and non-ferrous metals.
Sil Fos 15 only on non-ferrous. Seems like the last 45 I bought ran about $30 per oz for jeweler grade.   
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1949 Ford 8N
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote willyt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar. 2020 at 6:56am
I think I may have some 45%. If ggordan49 is interested drop me a mailing address in a pm and I will send some to him. No charge.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ggordon49 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar. 2020 at 9:21am
Thank you guys for the info! Willyt, that is very kind of you Embarrassed I'm going to give it a go with a handheld propane torch, some plumbing flux and silver solder... I have nothing to loose as this is going on a spare engine I'm working on... It appears the timing cover has a brass ring or disc, therefore, I believe it will be brass to brass.

Again - Thank you! I learned something today Big smile

EDIT: What i thought was a brass disc is just from the factory braze Shocked goes to show what I know... Having trouble getting it hot enough....


Edited by ggordon49 - 26 Mar. 2020 at 11:07am
Ship of Theseus - As years go by wooden parts begin to rot and are replaced by new. After a century, all of the parts have been replaced. Is the "restored" ship still the same object as the original?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote willyt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar. 2020 at 11:48am
Are you familiar with Mapp gas? Burns hotter than propane. Comes in same size bottle as propane, I think the bottle is colored yellow ( it’s been awhile since I used it ). Available at hardware stores. It may get hot enough for you. Good luck.
1952 CJ3A (Lil'Green)
early M38A1(Ole Green)
1970 Jeepster Commando
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