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oldtime View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 June 2020 at 10:53am
The tops of rear wheel house should easily clear up to 35” tall tires with standard suspension.
It’s typically the wheel offset that becomes a concern. 0r in effect the overall rear track width.
7.50 wide on a Jeep Kelsey Hayes wheel will have some minor rubbing on the inner wheelhouse panel.  Yet even the military 7.00 will rub a little at rear if fully stuffed. It really  only becomes a cosmetic concern for the paint.
I have never seen a 6.50 that rubbed the rear inner wheel panel.
No tire rubbing concerns up front if the steer angle is limited.
Technically speaking the 7.50 is considered as being too wide on a 5” rim. They are supposed to be mounted on 5.5 to 6” wide rims for optimum road use. But myself I find that I always prefer my rims to be a tad on the narrow side of optimum for a couple good reasons. My reasons entail the load range, the air pressure and rim lip protection.


Edited by oldtime - 30 June 2020 at 11:11am
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Greaser007 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 June 2020 at 4:08pm
   So many choices !

   What is that light green Jeep in the background of the first page photo ?
That jeep has some rubber i would consider for running the Rubicon.

   I am going to vary somewhat here, but for general off-roading I truly do not enjoy skinny tires. Up here in My neck of the woods skinny tires do not provide much floatation for driving around on an 8-foot snowpack. period.
   I grew up riding in a '53 Willys pickup with skinny tires and they about shook my teeth out. We all have our likes and dislikes and for most of us we wind up learning by trying this and that.
   I only have 18-summers experience running the Rubicon both directions.
And i never ran a locker either in a '46 Willys (2-summers) stock drivetrain except for articulation mods and Saginaw Power Steering, and 16-summers in the '77 cj-7 w no lockers but the stock 3-spd trans got swapped out real quick for a T-18 trans, which made all-the-difference, just being able to go slow and easy. Being a 'local' (6-hour drive) to the Rubicon Trail, it is mostly all i know except for crawling around the local Lava Bed trails. So in Tehama County, we have more Lava flows than dirt on the east side.
   Choosing a Locker is like choosing an RV, there is No one-size-fits-all.

   The AMC Model 20 rear axle assembly is often frowned-on, but in all those summers running a T-18 transmission and 32-12.5-15 tires, i had No issues.
   Air pressure is your best Friend if not running traction aids.

    Now about free-wheeling hubs in the rear: i flat towed my jeep most years and it was always a pia to unbolt the rear driveline and wire it up underneath for the flat-tow. Warn hubs would have been nice with a free-floater set-up.

   The Rubicon is relentless on equipment trail-prepped or not, and as a Real old guy told me my first trek through in 1983, "you need low gears and good articulation. To reach this goal, you must make modificaions from ORIGINAL.
   Longer-than-stock shocks, clearance'd u-joint yokes, so you don't get Bind in a tight twist which will snap a u-joint with a loud Pop !!
   Any selectable locker is a nice choice.

   I know you are hoping to keep your jeep looking original, so it looks like you are getting close.

   My last year to run the Rubicon was 2001, and that was the height of the production of the Cherokee's with the Rubicon Express long-arm kits.
   Those Cherokees work most impressive if set up with ARB selectable lockers front and rear, and with the Terra-low 4:1 and balloon tires for aired-down grip. So, with 2001 being my last year to traverse the Rubicon, i am obsolete.

    It feels weird to be one of the old-obsolete-guys.    hahahahaha
But, i am still there in spirit.
    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EJOWest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 June 2020 at 4:36pm
Thanks for all the information! The Blue/Green Jeep was my original starting point but it being a halfway decent MB I couldn’t bring myself to start modifying that. That said the M38 is in decent shape to restore as original but you have to start somewhere.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Metcalf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2020 at 2:29pm
I would plan on pushing the rear axle back 1-1.5"  to make the 7.50s fit a bit better. Then plan on doing some trimming and/or folding a new edge on the rear of the wheel opening. I would suggest removing the spare tire mount/braces also on the passenger side if you are using a cj2-3 tub.




42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EJOWest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2020 at 11:25pm
Okay thanks for the input! Not positive I'll be using the 7.50s yet. I'm still going for a stock look as much as possible so may just stick with the 700-16 NDT if it's not a huge difference in performance over the 750s.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2020 at 11:35pm
7.50s are stiffer than 7.00s because the were designed for heavy trucks. They also have fewer lugs per tire because the lugs are bigger. 

Stiffer = less flex off road resulting in less traction
Fewer lugs = fewer edges to grip stuff resulting in less traction
Larger diameter = more “lift” resulting in better ability to get over belly snags

My OPINION is that the first two downsides are not overcome enough my the one upside to make it worth the effort to do.

Your milage may vary.
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
Grampa's Jeep Build Thread
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EJOWest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 July 2020 at 12:35am
Very Good Points Stan! Thanks for that!
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oldtime View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 July 2020 at 10:01am
I’m also interested in Stan’s post.
 It’s  obviously backed with ample experience. 
Looks to me like the 7.00 only comes in 6PR and the 7.50 only come in 8PR.
 And I must say that 6PR has ever been my gold standard.
I have also noticed too from reading specs and observing various tread widths that the 7.50 has just enough of a wider tread width to effect the maximum allowable steering angle. 
Also that extra tread width will be noted at full stuff on rear wheelhouse paint.

Stan, what rims are you running 4.5 or 5.0 width ? 6 ply right ?
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 July 2020 at 11:05am
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

7.50s are stiffer than 7.00s because the were designed for heavy trucks. They also have fewer lugs per tire because the lugs are bigger. 

Stiffer = less flex off road resulting in less traction
Fewer lugs = fewer edges to grip stuff resulting in less traction
Larger diameter = more “lift” resulting in better ability to get over belly snags

My OPINION is that the first two downsides are not overcome enough my the one upside to make it worth the effort to do.

Your milage may vary.


Awful lot of tire knowledge there Stan.

Maybe I should change jobs.
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