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samcj2a 
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Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 21 Oct. 2006 Location: Arlington, VA Status: Offline Points: 8539 |
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 Posted: 24 Nov. 2007 at 7:56pm |
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Jack,
That is a nice drawing. Since I could never print quite as regularly as that, I'm guessing you did that on the Mac equivalent of an Etch-a-Sketch.
 What software is it? |
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Jus*Jack
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Joined: 15 Mar. 2007 Location: so. Georgia Status: Offline Points: 1841 |
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Posted: 24 Nov. 2007 at 8:30pm |
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Hehehe....just like an "engineering-type"...can't even letter! <g> But thanks Sam.
It's not quite the equivalent of "Etch-a-Sketch"...more the "dream" of AutoCAD users -- VectorWorks. It's a program that I've used for quite a few years...ever since giving up the Rapidographs and the Clearprint (and I sure do miss those days, sometimes! <g>) It began on the Mac back in the early '90s, I guess, and it's been available on both platforms for the last 4 or 5 years. It's really ideal for the small-practice guys like me, and it ain't too shabby for the "big guys", either. They cover the architectural, mechanical, civil, landscape, display, and theatrical fields with "specialized" versions, and do some pretty "whiz-bang" stuff. For a lot of "quick sketches" though, I grab SketchUp for the 3D stuff, even though VectorWorks is more capable...it's more just that it's more tedious for quick studies. |
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Seeya!
<Jack> '48 CJ2A 197207 "Junebug" '48 CJ2A 191237 "Turquoise" |
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m38mike
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Joined: 23 Apr. 2007 Location: Colorado High Country Status: Offline Points: 3684 |
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Posted: 25 Nov. 2007 at 12:28am |
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Nice drawing Jack!
We should get you to do drawings for all the original jeep body
parts! Yeah, that's the ticket! You could simply
reverse-engineer all the parts as you take Junebug apart, and post them
to the parts discussion. Then everyone would have access to the
drawings and we could all kneel and pray toward Quitman GA, home of the
jeep drawing Guru!  Can't you just feel the love??! 
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M38Mike
46 CJ2A SAMCJ2A 4?-5? CJ2A/3A/M38 Jigsaw 51 M38 Green Jeanne 52 M38 Blue Mule, 51 M100 Blue Mule Tale 52 XM38EV1 Electro-Willys, 52 M100 Juice Box |
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sean
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Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: North Idaho Status: Offline Points: 7388 |
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Posted: 25 Nov. 2007 at 1:30am |
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Jack, great drawing!
My 2 bumpers confirm your dimensions (except 1) to +/- 1/16", which is probably w/in manufacturing tolerance. You've got the hand crank hole at 1/2" from the bottom though. Mine are 1 1/2". Bumper length isn't consistent though. The '46 is 46 1/8", the '47 is 46 1/4". But since the bumper is not a precision part, I'd bet the design spec called for 46", and manufacturing was just a bit sloppy. I would expect the bolt holes to be symmetrical around center line, so your distances between outer front holes and weight mount holes (10 5/8" vs 10 7/8") would be accounted for if they flipped a too-long bumper around when punching those holes. You've got one dimension I didn't think to check: front mounting hole vertical offset. I just presumed it would be symmetrical top to bottom. It may be worth noting that some dimensions should be referenced from inside the channel, since a) it has to fit over the gussets, and b) the steel gauge changed thickness. So another one is the top & bottom lip mounting holes are set back 3/4" from the inner face of the channel. The '46 bumper is made from .155" steel, the '47 is made from .125" steel. The difference is quite noticeable when I pick them up! Sean |
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Jus*Jack
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Joined: 15 Mar. 2007 Location: so. Georgia Status: Offline Points: 1841 |
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Posted: 25 Nov. 2007 at 5:39pm |
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No, no, no...you guys ain't gonna sucker ME like this! <g> _I_ am NOT beoming the "drawing guru" on this page! <g> Tha't Sean's baliwick. I just felt kinda bad, always badgering HIM to measure this, or draw that, so I thought that for once...maybe I'd contribute a little bit...and the best part? It's working!
What I'm now getting is some accurate information (Thanks everybody, for that!), and I'll revise the drawing to reflect those corrections. Actually, being in the construction industry, I'm accustomed to things that are built "close enough" in most instances, so my measurements were, for the most part, done with that same mindset. The bumper that I was measuring is actually "curved" across its entire length, so even getting that dimension "close" was something of an act of faith! <g> ("Hmmmm...it _looks_ like it oughta be about...") To a machinist, or a mechanical engineer, those measurements would be much more precise, and I had hoped that by putting them out there, right or wrong, that you guys with better examples would pick up a tape, or a ruler, and go check mine against what you've got, and let me know. Then we'll possibly wind up with a REAL dimensioned drawing for the bumper! As for the "off-center" location of those holes Sean, I wondered the same thing...and did double-check. I measured things by checking from both ends, rather than from just one side, the way a lot of folks seem to do (and always from the left, it seems!). I think it tends to negate an error if one side has been "modified" in any fashion (manufacturing, repairs, etc.) And BTW, the hand crank hole IS 1.5" above the bottom...you just missed the 1" portion of that dimension I think, because the number ended up "merging" with the dotted line. My bad, and I should have seen that...but that's why I made sure to mark it "Preliminary"! Didn't want anybody, 5 years from now, running acrtoss that drawing, and taking it for "gospel"! <g> I'll correct those numbers later today, and re-post it (since I can't edit a post on this version of the forum s/w)...and if you guys spot any other differeneces, please...let me know! |
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Seeya!
<Jack> '48 CJ2A 197207 "Junebug" '48 CJ2A 191237 "Turquoise" |
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Jus*Jack
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Joined: 15 Mar. 2007 Location: so. Georgia Status: Offline Points: 1841 |
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Posted: 25 Nov. 2007 at 6:12pm |
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OK...here's a revised (but still preliminary!) drawing: And I've corrected a couple of dimensions, revised a note or two, but the dimensions between the two pair of frame-mount points and the ag-weight (or fairlead-mounting) holes remains in question. I'd appreciate it if several of you would try to check your own bumpers, measuring both from each end to these holes, and from the frame-mount holes to the ag-weight holes without concern for where they lie, relative to the ends of the bumper. I suspect that that's where the discrepancy lies. After all, the frame was more important to have matched, and if the ends were off by a fraction, it was probably "within tolerance". (And I keep forgetting to note the angle on the bumper end, but mine measure 45 degrees!)
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Seeya!
<Jack> '48 CJ2A 197207 "Junebug" '48 CJ2A 191237 "Turquoise" |
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TexBillHS
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Joined: 02 Apr. 2012 Location: Pennsylania Status: Offline Points: 103 |
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Posted: 23 July 2014 at 2:07am |
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I just got one from Debella - said it was for WWII and CJ2A - it is half the weight of the original. Think it will have to go back. My original has a little curve and a twist. I think it can get the curve out, but I am not sure about the twist
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Old Guy
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3-48s
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Joined: 18 Sep. 2008 Location: Upstate, NY Status: Offline Points: 2682 |
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Posted: 05 Aug. 2014 at 12:43am |
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Walck's has a good heavy replacement front bumper and it is Made In USA.
I have one on my Gray Mule.  Edited by 3-48s - 05 Aug. 2014 at 3:50am |
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1945 CJ2A #10536
1948 CJ2A #176528 "Elmer" 1948 CJ2A #155970 "Gray Mule" 1948 CJ2A #155365 "Old Yeller" (GONE) BANTAM T3C # 6147 (GONE) BANTAM T3C # 30856 |
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rocnroll
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Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Tuscumbia, AL Status: Offline Points: 13264 |
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Posted: 05 Aug. 2014 at 3:40am |
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Wow, there's a blast from the past.......RIP Jack..
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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