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jpet View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2008 at 7:33pm

Roger,

 

That is excellent information!

Could you take a picture just like picture number 1 except the back side where I can see the triangluar reinforcement that Sean is talking about?  I'd like to see the bottom edge too. (basically, picture number 1 but the back side).  As always take the picture straight on with a tape measure in the picture.  Thanks!

 

Originally posted by rocnroll rocnroll wrote:

Are you planning to do your own sewing on this top or are you thinking that an upholstery shop is going to take all your data and produce it?  .....  just wondering

 

 

This is a very good question that I have been asked several times this week.

 

The primary goal of this thread is to collect as much data on the original canvas as is possible.  The information that I am looking for is basically EVERYTHING!  dimensions, canvas type(s) thread, where is the stitch line, what size is the stitch, fasteners, buckles, straps, blah, blah, blah.  Matt said earlier that there is not much canvas around anymore and there are so many variations that it could drive me (us) nuts.  That is a good reason to get it documented now.  So far the only "full" canvas tops that I know of are Sean's, Roger's, and Del's.  (Del is missing some pieces.  Art C. has a half top and Matt has some pieces.  Hopefully this thread will generate interest and we will find more people who have canvas and they will join in.  The information in this thread will be helpful for identifying original canvas.  I'd hate for someone to go on ebay and buy some "original" canvas only to find out that, it's repo or that it came from a CJ5, due to lack of information.

 

Having said that:

 

Another goal for me personally is to collect information for creating a reproduction.  Right now my (our) options are somewhat limited for canvas.  Beachwood is just too expensive (IMHO) and New Life is just too busy (at least at the moment and I have a feeling she is going to get busier).  Hopefully this thread will help to generate more options such as:

 

1.      Make my (your) own.

2.      A member takes the information and starts a business (like Top Bows)

3.      Use the information to have a local shop make an accurate canvas top.

 

In central Illinois there are a few Amish communities who make canvas products (boat covers, sails, and what-not).  With the data we collect here I can take the plans to them and get a quality reproduction made.  Also, I wouldn’t have to give my doors and hardware to them for a year.

 

What I decide to do about my canvas will depend on how busy I am when I (we) have collected enough data.  I’d like to see a member take the data and start a business like Mike did with the top bows.

 

Regardless of which way I go, Beachwood, New Life, Local shop, page member, or make my own, my finished top MUST fit the parameters established by this thread or if the materials are no longer available MUST be made of the closest materials available today.

 

If I do make my own, I’ll start a new thread in MCP.  At the moment.  I have NO sewing experience, NO sewing machine, and I don't know the difference between a stitch and a seam.Wink

 

I’d be interested to compare our data to the current repos and see how close they are.



Edited by jpet - 16 Nov. 2008 at 7:38pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Roger B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2008 at 8:11pm
Jeff,
 
I hope this is what you asked forSmile.
 
Photobucket'>
 
Here is a closup of the upper part of the same side. (Forgot the ruler in this pic Embarrassed)
 
Photobucket'>
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2008 at 8:27pm
Excellent!

The triangle shape is a single ply right?
I assume the triangle piece overlaps the 5cm wide piece on the edge thereby creating 3 plys where the overlap is.




Edited by jpet - 16 Nov. 2008 at 8:28pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Roger B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2008 at 8:37pm
Yes, the the trangle shape is a single ply and it´s sewed over the 2" edge and it´s sewed under the 7,5" edge on the other side and it create 3 plys where the overlap is.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov. 2008 at 1:35am
Jeff:

As I suspected, all my critical dimensions are shorter than what you measured from Dels parts.  Proof enough that my canvas has shrunk, so it's worthless as a template.  I will be able to fill in details though.

Starting with the back flap:  I don't think that convoluted "W" curve in the lower corners is by design, there's certainly no functional purpose for it.  Probably a sewing artifact, caused by the side reinforcement strip stitching being too tight.  Mine has a slight concavity there, but is otherwise straight:

The edge stay reinforcement pieces simply overlap, not joined:

On to the rear top assembly.  The outside stitch lines:

The inside reinforcement details. NOTE, the corner gusset weave is on a bias to the main panel (45º).  Fairly common reinforcement technique:

The upper corner reinforcing is not square, nor does it extend all the way up:


The arch piece seams are flat fell.  The pieces are first sewn superimposed, then the seam if folded over & stitched down to remain flat:

You can see the 2nd fell stitch on the inside:

The edge binding is not a tape, but strips of thin, coated one side, cotton, cut on the bias.  I didn't find a good exposed area for a photo yet, but I know there's one there somewhere.

The binding is sewn with a chain-stitch,  all other stitching is plain lock stitch, approx 5-6 SPI.

They "finished" the edge by just running the chain stitch off the edge! LOL

All straps are sewn w/ a "Box X" stitch:

Strap fold detail:

All my straps are 14.75-15" OAL, with top of the fold 4" up from bottom edges.

Sean




Edited by sean - 17 Nov. 2008 at 2:44pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov. 2008 at 10:41am
Thanks guys.
 
I'll add these details this evening.  Good stuff!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov. 2008 at 1:09am
Roger,
 
Some of the dimensions you are giving me don't quite fit this design:
 
Therefore:
Can I get these dimensions please:
 
At your leisure.  Thanks.


Edited by jpet - 18 Nov. 2008 at 1:30am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov. 2008 at 3:33am
Originally posted by sean sean wrote:

I don't think that convoluted "W" curve in the lower corners is by design, there's certainly no functional purpose for it.  Probably a sewing artifact, caused by the side reinforcement strip stitching being too tight.  Mine has a slight concavity there, but is otherwise straight:

Agreed.  Got it:
 
Quote
The edge stay reinforcement pieces simply overlap, not joined:
How much?  an inch?
Quote
The inside reinforcement details. NOTE, the corner gusset weave is on a bias to the main panel (45º).  Fairly common reinforcement technique:
I see that.  I'll need to make another drawing to document the direction of the weave and the stitching types.  I get 38° from vertical for this angle both on your's and Roger's.
Quote

The arch piece seams are flat fell.  The pieces are first sewn superimposed, then the seam if folded over & stitched down to remain flat:

You can see the 2nd fell stitch on the inside:
I'm not sure what that means.  Is it sewn like this?

Quote
All my straps are 14.75-15" OAL, with top of the fold 4" up from bottom edges.
 
Del's is also 4-3/4 so I'll go with that.
 
I'll post an updated Rear roof panel whenI get Roger's dimensions.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov. 2008 at 3:41am

OK this is far from finished but I've added some of the changes:



 

Oops, I forgot to make the strap 14-3/4 longEmbarrassed


Edit: where the roof piece and the rear panel are sewed together, they are superimposed by how much? 3/8 inch?

Edited by jpet - 18 Nov. 2008 at 4:00am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov. 2008 at 3:29pm
Jeff:
Quote I'm not sure what that means.  Is it sewn like this?
Close.

The 2 pieces are superimposed back-to-back and sewn together.  Then one piece is folded over the join, and sewn through all plies.  The first stitch line is not visible from the outside:

Quote where the roof piece and the rear panel are sewed together, they are superimposed by how much?
By just enough to be covered by the edge binding:
The roof piece would have it's front & side edge binding applied first.  The rear edge, where it attaches to the back piece, is not bound.  The roof & back pieces are then superimpose stitched, then the back piece binding is attached all the way round, covering the roof/back join.

Sean




Edited by sean - 18 Nov. 2008 at 3:30pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov. 2008 at 4:34pm
Thanks Sean I got it.
It looks like the fell is about 3/8 wide?
It also looks like the fells point inward towards the middle as shown in my update:
 
Revision 4


Edited by jpet - 18 Nov. 2008 at 4:34pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Roger B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov. 2008 at 4:49pm
Jeff,
Here are the measurements from A-H. We must keep in mind that some shrinking and stretching have been made during the years, so the measures are not 100% accurate.
 
A=66"
B=59"
C=39"
D=32" 
E=24,5"
F=4"
G=8"
H=8-1/4"
 
Don´t hesitate to ask for more measures, I am at your service.Big smile
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov. 2008 at 4:55pm
Thanks Roger,  I have noticed the shrinkage and stretching.  I'm using the bow geometry to uncover these deformations.  it looks to me from the pictures of your jeep with canvas installed that the canvas should hang below the tub about 1-1/2 inches.
 
Edit:  My bows, (and the ones that I sent you which you say are identical to your's), are 31-3/4" higher than the tub when assembled.  You have 32" for your "D" dimension.  This would mean that the canvas would only hang over your tub by 1/4"
 
Maybe there is stretch involved.


Edited by jpet - 18 Nov. 2008 at 5:20pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov. 2008 at 5:33pm
Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:

It looks like the fell is about 3/8 wide?
Yep.
Quote It also looks like the fells point inward towards the middle as shown in my update
Yep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Roger B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov. 2008 at 6:14pm
Jeff,
 
I have remaesured the D with your rear bows put in the rear top flat on the floor and I get 32" this time too. My rear top must be shrinked. Look at the pic, it´s quite tight in the lower part  (It looks like when you wear a to small suiteLOL)
Maybe  you must count for 1-3% shrinkage. What do you think?
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov. 2008 at 6:31pm
Originally posted by Roger B Roger B wrote:

Look at the pic, it´s quite tight in the lower part
By this I think you mean that you stretch it out when you strap it down.  The canvas does hang over the tailgate by more than 1/4 inch.
 
Your bows are 31-3/4" tall when installed on the jeep right?
 
Also:
 
I'm having trouble with your "F", "G", and "H" dimensions:
 
Are you sure you were not measuring the holes in the arch way?  With the "4", "8", and "8-1/4" dimensions that you gave me, it would leave a 3" gap between the las hole and the top of the 7-1/2" wide panel.  That does not look right to me.
 
Edit:  Also, your "E" dimension is on the left side of the panel like I am showing right?  That panel tapers down to the right.


Edited by jpet - 18 Nov. 2008 at 6:36pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Roger B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov. 2008 at 6:44pm
Jeff,
I understand that you have problems with F, G and H. I really don´t know what I have measuredEmbarrassed. (maybe because I have got the flu, and the head feels like it´s full of cotton) 
 
Here is the correct measures!!
 
F=3"
G=9,5"
H=9,5"
 
Is this better?
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov. 2008 at 6:55pm

I'm sorry to hear that  Hope you get feeling better soon!

That is MUCH better.  What about the 24.5 measurement? (E)  It is off the "tall side" right?
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