Checklist when looking to buy |
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vtsteve
Member Joined: 24 Oct. 2018 Location: VA Status: Offline Points: 190 |
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Posted: 28 July 2021 at 5:12pm |
I will be looking at a potential project flatfender jeep this weekend that has been sitting for 10+ years (dry storage) but ran when last parked. I'm looking for a checklist of things to check out beyond the obvious. Please let me know if you have comments/additions.
1) Check understide/Hat Channels for rust/rot 2) Check if motor turns over (obviously can't try to start it)--remove plugs, try to rotate at fan/use breaker bar if needed. 3) Check that jeep shifts into all gears 4) Check transfer case shifting 5) Check frame, especially front rails for cracks/rust 6) Jack up each wheel--check for play? 7) Look for major signs of oil puddles under the jeep What am I missing guys? How do I come up with a price for something I can't drive? |
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Ron D
Member Joined: 27 Oct. 2019 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 1438 |
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Number 1 on my list is to be certain the seller has a clear title with numbers that match the jeep and/or is authorized to sell it with a Bill of Sale. Any question about this and there's not much point in the rest of the checklist. Might want to add looking at the fuel tank and radiator as these can be high dollars to replace. Good luck! Edited by Ron D - 28 July 2021 at 5:28pm |
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1951 M38
1951 M100 |
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JohnB
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 01 June 2014 Location: Saint Louis, MO Status: Offline Points: 393 |
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If unrestored, expect rusted floors/hat channels. You will also be able to see all the good and bad. An engine rebuild can easily reach $3k.
I agree on clear title is number 1 if you intend on driving on the road. Get the history of the jeep and see if it matches what you're looking at. Make sure chassis is solid and not broken or heavily modified. Everything on the jeep can be fixed, repaired or replaced. Just depends on how much time and money you want to put into it. As others have said, start with the best jeep project you can afford and don't forget the title.
Edited by JohnB - 28 July 2021 at 5:44pm |
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Ron D
Member Joined: 27 Oct. 2019 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 1438 |
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1951 M38
1951 M100 |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Online Points: 7982 |
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Is it just the part of the country some of you guys are in or what. Around here it is extremely rare for the buyer to set the price or even have much of a say about the price of any vehicle until after the SELLER tell you what they want. Over the years I have bought and sold a couple dozen used cars some were classics like my 51 and 52 Chev 3100's or my 40 Dodge Coupe or the 65 Dart Charger etc. I never got to suggest the price before the seller told me what they wanted. That said number one on my list for a Willys would be the TITLE |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Ron D
Member Joined: 27 Oct. 2019 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 1438 |
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Never said anything about the buyer setting the price. That's not done anywhere I know. I was talking about the buyer (after inspecting and asking about a title) throwing out a number, a.k.a. making an offer. Yes, that's usually done after the seller names his price, but not always. And I've known some sellers to start with "make me an offer", especially when they aren't sure what they have is really worth. And non-running (ran when parked) rusty 70 year old jeeps can easily fall into that category of hard to know what it's really worth. Can't exactly look it up in the Blue Book.
Edited by Ron D - 28 July 2021 at 8:46pm |
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1951 M38
1951 M100 |
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vtsteve
Member Joined: 24 Oct. 2018 Location: VA Status: Offline Points: 190 |
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No title..,.but from what I read, they’re gettable in VA in about 2 months via an abandoned vehicle application.
And no price/pix….I heard about this one via word of mouth and I’m dropping in to check it out. I’ll keep y’all posted. |
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Jerry45
Member Joined: 29 Apr. 2007 Location: Cheshire, CT Status: Offline Points: 868 |
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In Connecticut, you don't need a title, but for many places that do, you can certainly use the lack a of a title as a bargaining chip to get the seller to lower the price! Then go through the process to get a title. Jerry
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1945 CJ-2A #11802
1950? Szekley Navy APU Jeep Bantum BTC-3 Trailer "They can have my Jeep when they pry it from my cold, dead hands." |
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muley
Member Joined: 25 Jan. 2021 Location: idaho Status: Offline Points: 821 |
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no title does not mean the SN is not still out there in another form. run a lien search to see it the jeeps SN comes up. if a lien exists on your SN #99999 you'll be liable before getting title.
in other words, in the absence of a title still be sure the jeeps SN is clean. Edited by muley - 28 July 2021 at 10:21pm |
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Joined Jan-8 2015
I never met a mule I didn't like! OD Mule 01-52 M38 Big Red 19fiddy CJ3A salad |
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Bitz
Member Joined: 17 Dec. 2020 Location: MN Status: Offline Points: 275 |
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As to SN (vin) don’t get to excited if on your search if another vehicle pops up. In my case I had the original title from indiana and CJ had been in family since early 50s so new it was clean. But when I put in to MN DMV that came back with your vin is titled in another state. But not what other state. So after using a title search app found same vin in MD after some fees and letters finally got MD to send me info on that vehicle as it was a hummer with a 6 digit vin same as mine. This “proof” to MN DVM 6 mths after I applied got me my clean title.
One thing. The MN folks could not get their heads around a 6 digit vin. So my point is if you are transferring to a new state having a clean title in another is not a slam dunk and has some risk but can be done Here is a place to start to find a check. Several sites to search. Some charge a fee and I had to try 3 different sites before one of them located the MD You can get a free VIN check at the National Insurance Crime Bureau (NICB), VehicleHistory.com or iSeeCars.com/VIN. Just pop in your car's digits and these sites will do the VIN lookup and give you information on the Bitz
Edited by Bitz - 28 July 2021 at 11:05pm |
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Bill2A
Member Joined: 01 Mar. 2018 Location: Fort Worth, Tex Status: Offline Points: 517 |
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Beside the title I would look out for and wear or damage that I didn't feel comfortable trying to repair.
It also would be good to think about it and decide what you intend to do with it. If you plan a restoration you'll want original or period correct parts. If you intend to upgrade everything you can, that's different.
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1946 CJ2A 14098
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TMRoper
Member Joined: 23 Aug. 2016 Location: Oklahoma Status: Offline Points: 192 |
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1.title
2. Does it turn over at the crank .does it just move a little ,a full revolution or not at all.Don't turn it at the fan it doesn't tell you anything 3.does it have any cracks in the block, ex. at the base of the distributor or elsewhere. 4.was it parked outside? If so then the gears in the tranny and transfer case are probably shot. They might not be but assume they are. These are some of the things I look at that can greatly affect the price and future enjoyment there are other things for sure but theses will greatly affect your bargaining power when making the deal . Good luck ! And the most important this is to have fun! |
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Stevens
Member Joined: 13 Feb. 2019 Location: Troy Pa. Status: Offline Points: 210 |
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The suggestions here are all good and made me move on one of my jeeps. I have a 46 2a ser# 279472. It is column shift and 100% original. It is Harvest Tan with red wheels. The only thing missing is the canvas top, all the bows and parts are there for the roof. The engines turns over and it has fired [Backfired].
I put a new batt,points etc wires, plugs to see what would happen. I believe some values are stuck no compression to speak of. Rust is not an issuse really you have to see this Jeep to believe it. There is surface rust and seam rust but only one hole about the size of quarter. I strongly considering selling this Jeep for 9500.00. What are your thoughts ie price to low/high. I'll leave it at that so as not to lead the witness. Steve
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Steve
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Michaeltru
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Oct. 2012 Location: Arizona Status: Offline Points: 988 |
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Is that the correct serial number? Any pics? Thanks
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Mike in AZ
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cpt logger
Member Joined: 23 Sep. 2012 Location: Western Colorad Status: Offline Points: 3040 |
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Bolding mine. Why do you say "Don't turn it at the fan it doesn't tell you anything"? Why does it matter how you turn the crankshaft? I like to turn it with a wrench or the fan as it gives me a chance to feel how much the engine is resisting my efforts to turn it. The starter give very little feedback on this. No harm can come from this practice & there is some information to be gathered by it. I can often tell if the valves are starting to stick by how much resistance I feel & for how much of the rotation it occurs at. If it has too much or too little resistance throughout the rotation, it can indicate that the rings are stuck on the pistons. There are other things I can tell using this method. I have a fair amount of experience with engines, so I might catch things the less experienced would miss. Yet still, IME this statement is dead wrong. So in summation, I can tell quite a lot by turning it with the fan. No offense intended, but I can not let this bad advice slide. Cpt Logger.
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JohnB
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 01 June 2014 Location: Saint Louis, MO Status: Offline Points: 393 |
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I'll take a WAG at this.
If the jeep is Very original with little Serious rust - maybe/probably someone out there will buy it at that price. However if any major system needs a rebuild - engine and or trans/transfer case, the price is probably too high. As mentioned, check your vin number - it doesn't match an early 46. Let us know how it works out.
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bight
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 20 Aug. 2020 Location: mid coast maine Status: Offline Points: 1679 |
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this is potentially a very valuable thread IMO. i will be very interested in seeing more experienced input and of course a little friendly controversy.
i fully understand the potential list can be long and have a great deal of variables. with that said, there is certainly a major list of concerns that would apply to most situations. then there would be an extensive list of items that could widely vary as to each individuals taste and desires. variances would also exist between wrecks, did not run when parked, "ran when parked, yeah right", rustbuckets, only worth parts, historical value/significance, restored, rebuilt, additional features/options, etc. now my question: would a whitish/gray sludge on the dipstick when removed and examined be a bad thing necessarily on a Jeep advertised as fully restored?
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CJ-2A 72586 tan (stock)
CJ-2A 197624 green (resto-mod) the wife abides (def: to bear patiently; TOLERATE) |
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Stev
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2389 |
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Fully restored means different things to different people. A truly fully restored to factory or better condition - with year correct parts (NOS or Good quality New parts) and no rust - they exist but hardly anyone wants to pay for one of these. Lots of home restorers do good work. But lots don't know or care about "correct" or have the time / funds to do what the experts consider "Fully Restored". Buyer beware! The whitish/Gray sludge could be a lot of things. Best case - It is assembly lube from when the engine was reassembled. Do a compression test, check the oil pressure, run the engine does it run smooth like a sewing machine? Just hard to say. Edited by Stev - 29 July 2021 at 3:16pm |
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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