CJ2 327 Cooling Tips? |
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DadaNich
Member Joined: 02 Sep. 2020 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 18 |
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Posted: 15 Sep. 2020 at 12:21am |
Hi again guys! I’m back with another question for the 2A Jedis...
My ‘47 CJ2A Frankenstein has a 66(ish) 2nd Generation 327. Likely a Chevelle I’ve been told. Mechanical fan usually does good but I found at times the engine seemed way hotter than the gauges show. Gauges are tested and sound but I’m wondering if it’s getting hotter around the head. At some point someone used a bunch of silicone to seemingly quick fix an issue with the intake manifold. It’s since been replaced and fixed but leads me to my question here. Has anyone had this issue before? Electric fan tips? Anybody experimented with putting a thin electric fan in front of the radiator behind the grill? Any other tips would be real helpful - thanks guys!!!
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nofender
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 10 May 2016 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 2018 |
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What are you using for a radiator?
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46 CJ2a rockcrawler
46 CJ2a - 26819 46 Bantam T3c "4366" 47 Bantam T3C - 11800 68-ish CJ5 |
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Michaeltru
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Oct. 2012 Location: Arizona Status: Offline Points: 987 |
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Infrared thermometer to check temps on engine?
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Mike in AZ
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duffer
Member Joined: 02 Feb. 2012 Location: Bozeman, MT Status: Offline Points: 1076 |
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In stock form, Gen I sbc's are known for somewhat uneven block/head temperatures. There are a number of aftermarket products to address this including rear manifold ports plumbed to the thermostat area and (like Gen II) reverse flow systems. My solution is just to get more water volume through the system. You should start with a high flow water pump. My current engine is using a FlowKooler 1880. I had a custom aluminum water pump pulley machined to speed the pump up 15%. I'm using a 19x26x3" cross flow welded aluminum radiator (from Summit) with my custom shroud and a 19" Flex-a-lite mechanical (no flex) steel fan. It works well. I'm still not a big fan (excuse the pun) of electric fans. The mechanical fan eats more horse power but with a sbc in a Willys, that probably isn't a big concern.
Last, throw a bottle of water wetter in the system. In my experience it's good for about a 5 degree drop all by its self. In stock form, I've measured almost a 10 degree difference between the rear head port and the thermostat. That probably doesn't have too big an impact in normal, utilitarian use. But if you are starting to push the limits of a specific engine, it can cause all sorts of havoc.
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1955 3B: 441sbc,AGE 4 speed transmission, Teralow D18w/Warn OD, 4.11:1 D44's/ARB's, glass tub & fenders, aluminum hood/grill, 8274, York OBA, Premier Power Welder; 67 CJ5: 225,T86AA, D18, 4.88's, OD
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flatfender47
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Jan. 2006 Location: Riverside CA Status: Offline Points: 645 |
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What's the engine compartment look like ?
Do you have a winch in front ? When was the radiator cleaned/checked ? What does the radiator core measure ? At the minimum, you need 327 square inches of cooling surface/fin area. What's the history?
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1947 CJ2A 225V6 SM420 D30 PLok/D44 D/Locker Warn OD 5:38s
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DadaNich
Member Joined: 02 Sep. 2020 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 18 |
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Thanks for the thorough details here gang, much appreciated.
Posting to the questions on my phone here so apologies if it’s a bit hectic. I have a Griffin Universal 3” thick radiator, year old fits real nice with the tapered bottom. Flushed and checked two months back. No winch on front but there is a classic tow bar. I’m not sure about the core but will get back here tomorrow with that. History is the old girl was a early 70s crawler beast... 327 with the original Edelbrock QJ, mated with a engineering-marvel (angle wise) of a transfer case to a SM 421 KD M20/21 Transmission. Power steering added inside front bumper on drivers side. Dana Rear 44 lockers, rear axle from a Scout, not sure about the front but likely D25s. No way I would’ve touch this with a 10’ pole intiallt considering the hodgepodge but she was my grandads so had to bring her back home... |
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DadaNich
Member Joined: 02 Sep. 2020 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 18 |
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Thanks Duffer - super great tips will give those a shot. I think my radiator is solid but let me know if your experience tells you otherwise.
I don’t intend to crawl with this but do like to take her to the mountains in the summer... I also have a small trailer I tow with her, nothing major maybe 1500-2000 lb gross tops. I know the sbcs can run just fine over 200 but makes me nervous everytime lol. Appreciate the tips!
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jeepsterjim
Member Joined: 13 July 2011 Location: lincoln, ca Status: Offline Points: 1272 |
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Installing a flowkooler water pump and thermostat will help increase back pressure in the heads which helps in the cooling. A good 6 blade metal fan and shroud will also help. Running a motor at 210 all day won't hurt a thing. Low RPM.....creepy crawling... can overheat a motor sometimes. When crawling in hot weather I had a "portable" electric fan that mounted in front of the grille and it solved all heating problems.
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299 |
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DadaNich
Member Joined: 02 Sep. 2020 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 18 |
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Thanks guys - I’m looking now on Summit for the FlowKooler... don’t see the 1880 but there is an 1888. Looks like the right one for my 327 but let me know your thoughts - thanks gents!
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duffer
Member Joined: 02 Feb. 2012 Location: Bozeman, MT Status: Offline Points: 1076 |
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1888 has a 5/8" pilot, 1880 has a 3/4" pilot, slightly larger inlet diameter, and the cam stop. Most fans are 5/8". If you only are running electric fan(s), either would work. I'm pretty sure both use the same impeller. They fit well over a stock timing gear cover but with some aluminum aftermarket covers you need to change out the water pump rear cover bolts for some low profile versions-short head Allens or button heads.
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1955 3B: 441sbc,AGE 4 speed transmission, Teralow D18w/Warn OD, 4.11:1 D44's/ARB's, glass tub & fenders, aluminum hood/grill, 8274, York OBA, Premier Power Welder; 67 CJ5: 225,T86AA, D18, 4.88's, OD
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drm101
Member Joined: 12 Dec. 2012 Location: Clarkston, MI Status: Offline Points: 1468 |
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Also, mechanical fan blades should be 1/2 in and 1/2 out of the shroud, with around inch between the shroud and the blade. Hayden's website has some good info on fan/fan clutch/shroud/radiator set ups. Ignition timing can also be an issue. Run a distributor with a vacuum can hooked to manifold vacuum so that at idle your around 36 to 40 degrees advance with the vac can connected. It will help cooling when you are cruising down the road as well, and get you better gas mileage. It can be some work getting the initial timing, amount of vacuum advance, and amount of mechanical advance dialed in, but once it's right it pays off.
Edited by drm101 - 16 Sep. 2020 at 4:38pm |
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Dean
'47 CJ2A "Mud Hen" The less the Power the More the Force |
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DadaNich
Member Joined: 02 Sep. 2020 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 18 |
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Thanks guys - she currently has a speedway sbc Performance Water Pump. Part # 91015580. Guessing the FlowKooler is an upgrade to this? Appreciate the continued support and info! I’ll send pics this weekend to help illustrate
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duffer
Member Joined: 02 Feb. 2012 Location: Bozeman, MT Status: Offline Points: 1076 |
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Someplace in my shop I have one of those Speedway short aluminum pumps sitting on the shelf. New. I seem to recall it has a stamped steel rotor. My best guess is yes, the Flowkooler probably flows better. Probably significantly better. There just doesn't seem to be enough info available for either to make an actual comparison.
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1955 3B: 441sbc,AGE 4 speed transmission, Teralow D18w/Warn OD, 4.11:1 D44's/ARB's, glass tub & fenders, aluminum hood/grill, 8274, York OBA, Premier Power Welder; 67 CJ5: 225,T86AA, D18, 4.88's, OD
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DadaNich
Member Joined: 02 Sep. 2020 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 18 |
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Thanks fellas - I’ve ordered the FlowKooler, keep you guys posted.
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Greaser007
Member Joined: 16 Jan. 2018 Location: Anderson, Calif Status: Offline Points: 850 |
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DadaNich
I would consider a nice flex fan that pulls good air at idle, and with a good shroud. The nice thing about a 4:1 Tera-Low is you can keep your rev's up, and fan turning without breaking any land-speed-records. The reviews of the flex fan mention curing overheating at idle at intersections. (sounds good). The nice thing about a flex fan is once you get up to high rpm the blades flatten out some for expressway running. (except for climbing the grade on I-80 east of Salt Lake City w trailer in August). Maybe a good shroud and mech (no-flex) fan would not be prone to elec fan relay issues and resulting overheating. A buddy with a Rubicon edition had poor luck running electric fans in the So-Cal desert. and that was with hood vents and an in-line six. Hmm elec at Pick-n-Pull off of something might do. The fan on my '78 Ford 460 measures 18" dia with six blades (I just had it off due to a failed fan clutch). The fans on bigger engines have more depth on the blade for pulling air, which you might borrow your buddies fan off his '78 F-250. grinning. What to do. So now i'm wondering what your end result will be. Happy Holidays !! :)
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