CJ2A Build Deadline FCT 2017

Looks like you have your work cut out for you. I'll be watching this build closely!

loving the start... i'd be doing well to make it a runner by FCT, let alone mixing and mingling.

Good luck.

Thanks Dan! I will take you up on your offer to help and PM you with the details once we really get to rolling on it. Brian

We managed to disassemble the Jeep while only breaking or having to cut off a few bolts. There are some floor board repairs that will need to be made.

The first step after disassembly was to get a stand fabricated and bolted to the shop floor to keep the frame straight, square, and level while we make some repairs and modifications. The damaged rear crossmember was replaced with a new one fabricated out of 2"x3"x3/16" wall rectangle tubing. The rear crossmember will be complete once we pick up and weld in a receiver hitch into it.


Stay tuned for more. Brian

making good progress. We are anxiously awaiting further updates. And, only 209.30 days left before the FCT!   

Looking good.Really nice job on those hat channels and your steering box mount.      

Giles.

Edited by Gil - 05 Mar. 2017 at 3:02pm

Over the last couple of weeks we replaced the rest of the rusty floorboard panels. It seemed like the more we replaced, the more we found that needed to be replaced, but I think we finally got it. The back corners of the tub were caved in pretty good from years of backing into stuff on the farm. We borrowed a friend's porta power and pushed them back out. We then turned our attention to building some roll cage mounts that are going to be tied into the frame. We are using 1/4" thick plates to sandwich the body where a roll cage mount will land on the floorboard. The roll cage will weld onto the top plates and we are tying the bottom plate into the frame. This way we can unbolt and remove the roll cage from the Jeep and also remove the tub from the frame. With the tub placed upside down and level on stands, we set the frame onto it. The mounts under the windshield and the mounts by the tailgate are being tied into the frame with 1.5" x 3/16" wall square tubing. We bent some 3/8" x 3" flat iron and followed the contour of the rear fenders to tie the mounts in behind the front seats. This leaves enough clearance for the rear tires. All six frame mounts are fabricated and tacked together.
       

I do not think the roll cage tie-in will interfere with the brakes or clutch. We are planning on using swinging pedals with (most likely) an external hydraulic slave cylinder to actuate the clutch. We removed the original diamond-shaped plates on the outside of the frame that the crossmember riveted to. New plates were built that were thicker and longer to provide a sturdy mount for both this front tie-in and a new cross member. I am concerned about the clearance inside the frame rails. We have changed our mind on the engine selection and are going to be using a 4.3L. This decision is based primarily on how cheap and simple the already fuel injected 4.3L is versus the costs and complexity of fuel injecting an "odd fire." The 4.3L will be coupled to the T18/Dana 20 (passenger drop) combo we originally planned on using. The 4.3L I am running in our Jeep is backed by an TF999 automatic transmission. This along with a wider frame towards the back of the Jeep , leaves adequate room for the exhaust to fit between the transmission/transfer case and the frame. I have a question for you guys out there running 4.3L's (or V8s) with manual transmissions and stock frames...how did you position the drivetrain and route the exhaust to clear the clutch linkage, transfer case, and front driveshaft? We want to keep the exhaust between the frame rails.