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CJ-2a Restoration, Let the fun begin

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Cheapsnake View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cheapsnake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov. 2019 at 12:11pm
Still deconstructing and cleaning things up. Finally pulled the engine and tranny yesterday and happy to report no surprises, like a hole through the oil pan. I did do a compression test before I pulled the engine and got readings all over the board, from 53 to 120 psi so a teardown is in order, not too surprised. Clutch is marginal so that will be replaced. Everything along the drivetrain works smoothly, without any bad noises so I'm hopeful that won't need any attention. However, with all the caked on oil I'm probably looking at some new seals.

Today I hope to have the frame cleaned up and ready for paint. Once that's done, I can get after the fun stuff.


This just a part of the pile of grease, mud and gunk that came out of the frame.


Frame is close to being cleaned up, degreased, wire brushed and ready for paint. I'm thinking rust converter and Por-15.

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LuzonRed47 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LuzonRed47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov. 2019 at 12:23pm
Great work and thanks for sharing your progress! Regarding frame restos, I'm firmly in the sandblast/epoxy primer camp. With POR15, it seems for every success story there is at least one story of dissatisfaction. But I have no experience with the stuff.
CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cheapsnake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov. 2019 at 7:56pm
Yeah, in a perfect world we'd all sandblast, epoxy prime and finish with a two-part urethane. In my world, this is the best I can do.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Michaeltru Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov. 2019 at 9:21pm
From what I understand, you need a layer of paint over the POR-15. Such as their chassis black. The POR-15 fades in sunlight. Or at least it did 10 years ago.  Mike

Mike in AZ
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nothing Special Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov. 2019 at 10:24pm
... that and prep is critical.  POR (Paint Over Rust) needs a surface with some "tooth" to get a hold of.  Obviously it won't stay on if you put it on over dirt or loose scale.  But it also won't stay on if the surface is too clean and smooth.
Bob

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cheapsnake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2019 at 7:22pm
I'm back after weeks of derusting degreasing, and demudding. Just when I thought I had it all, I discovered about 5 pounds of mud hidden in the frame rails. I finally got it all out and ready for paint. After reading another recent post about Fluid Film I checked it out and it got good reviews, so my paint scheme consists of rust converter, RustOleum and Fluid Film. I think that will be an effective rust deterrent.

Feels good to finally get at some of the mechanical stuff that doesn't involve dust or grease. As I'm reassembling, I noticed some play in the left front hub so decided to take it down and check the bearing adjustment. To my surprise, there's only one bearing, not two as I'm used to and which the service manual shows. However, once assembled the wheel seems perfectly happy with the one bearing. Is this right or did I lose a bearing somewhere along the way?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LuzonRed47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2019 at 8:44pm
Looks good. I was unfamiliar with Fluid Film so now investigating. Thanks for the project update.
CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie"
ACM #124334
1953 Strick M100 trailer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TERRY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2019 at 9:00pm
There is definitely  an inner  and outer bearing.  Look again, cause it would really wobble  if one was missing. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cheapsnake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Nov. 2019 at 8:25am
Damn, I had hoped to edit that comment about only having one bearing before anyone read it, but Terry beat me to it.  Yes, indeed I do have two bearings.  The inner is cleverly hidden behind the oil seal and disguised as a part of the brake drum.  No more beer in the shop (yeah, right).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NealzWorld Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov. 2019 at 9:23am
Originally posted by Cheapsnake Cheapsnake wrote:

Damn, I had hoped to edit that comment about only having one bearing before anyone read it, but Terry beat me to it.  Yes, indeed I do have two bearings.  The inner is cleverly hidden behind the oil seal and disguised as a part of the brake drum.  No more beer in the shop (yeah, right).

Hhahahahaa.   No more beer in the shop.....  That's where my beer fridge is!   Sounds and looks like an awesome rebuild.   Can't wait to see it when ya get it back together.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cheapsnake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov. 2019 at 7:58pm
OK, so now the frame is pretty much locked down so on to the fun stuff, ie; the engine. That is, until it comes to pulling the head. I pulled all the head nuts off and soaked them with PB Blaster, but no amount of persuasion would release the head. I even tried cranking it over in the hopes that compression would blow it off...no such luck. Any ideas?

And yes, of course the beer fridge is in the shop. Where else would one keep their beer?

Edited by Cheapsnake - 25 Nov. 2019 at 8:01pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov. 2019 at 8:26pm
Old trick is to snake a leather shoelace into the spark plug hole (on the piston side of course) & turn it over slowly by hand. It should pop it loose. 
1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cheapsnake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov. 2019 at 7:42pm
Neat trick with the shoelace. I tried it with a 2' breaker bar and the head wouldn't budge. So I went the route of whatever works and started with thin wedges, graduating to larger and larger until I finally was able to lift the head about 1/4" above the block. That was after 2 hours of whaling on it with a 5 pound maul and plenty of PB Blaster. I gave up for the day and hope to actually get it off tomorrow, hopefully without too much damage to the head or block.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cheapsnake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov. 2019 at 8:18pm
After three days of whacking on the head with a 5 pound maul and every wedge I could find or fabricate it finally gave in and released itself from the block.


Despite all the punishment the sealing surface has come out of it pretty much unscathed, except for a minor gouge at one corner well away from a critical sealing area. This can be taken care of by a small dab of hi-temp RTV or if I feel ambitious I'll take it into a machine shop for a fuzz cut just to clean everything up.


Pulled the oil pan and found a quarter inch of gunk at the bottom. Not too surprising for a 70+ year old engine. What you see on the scraper is not just gunk, it's tar.


Happy to see the cylinder walls show no scoring or other bad stuff. Should be a quick and easy ring job.

The final act today was to "simply" pull the distributor. Of course it was frozen in place and only took about two hours to pry it out, a walk in the park compared to the head.

Next task, pull some caps and check the bearings and journals, fingers crossed. Happy Thanksgiving!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cheapsnake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Dec. 2019 at 5:52pm

Rod journals look pretty good, mains are marginal, based on the old reliable fingernail test. New bearings all around and as long as I have the crank out I'll probably have everything cleaned up.
On the bright side, the cylinder walls are in excellent condition. A quick hone and new rings will do.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NealzWorld Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec. 2019 at 7:30pm
Do you have a beer assistant? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec. 2019 at 9:04am
You are having too much fun !!

   Did you make up a Willy's parts list for Santa and deliver !

   I recently checked a crankshaft for a F-head, and all journals looked good except for No. 1 rod journal, and it was badly worn. Makes me wonder if the timing-gear squirter had too big of hole, or the sludge-oil was too thick to get there. It makes me wonder how many of these engines were poured full of STP oil treatment way-back-when decades ago.

   I remember someone earlier this year saying the disassembly and clean-up is about 80 percent of a resto.

   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cheapsnake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec. 2019 at 9:24am
No beer assistant. My wife used to be my beer assistant but since I got the fridge in the shop she feels like she's been replaced.

I think that 80% figure for disassembly (demo) and clean-up is very close to reality. However, it pays off in the end.

Update, the crankshaft is in the shop for a regrind and new bearings. Funny thing, I haul the crank into Buck's shop and he takes a look at it and says, "Jeep, 134, right?". Now that's a guy that's been around the block a few times.
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