CJTJ Build Thread |
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47cj2a
Member Joined: 04 Nov. 2005 Location: wheelin the great northwest Status: Online Points: 113 |
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Posted: 17 Feb. 2021 at 10:05am |
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EDIT: I changed the title a little shorter and its pretty much called the CJTJ among some friends. I first build this jeep back in High School for my senior
project. At the time it had a Buick V6, bigger tires, bigger brakes. So I
"restored" it. After many years of fun and off roading in the PNW it
was time to take it back apart and re-restore it. Then it sat for some time and
I decided to go a different route.
First time I saw it, circa 1997.
Getting a period correct engine put back in.
After high school it followed me to college and pulled farm
duty
Plenty of snow wheeling as well
When I first started re-restoring the jeep I got as far as
taking it apart, sand blasting the frame and painting it with two part epoxy
paint. Then it sat. When I first started this project back up I had a plan. I wanted
to run cj5 springs, so I cut of the factory spring perches and using my cj5 as
a template moved them out the appropriate amount. I wasnt planning on running 5
springs but couldnt find any aftermarket non lift 2a springs that were softer.
I was also going to go with a Saginaw style steering set up so I
strengthened up the area where the factory Ross steering box used to be
Since I was going to be running a Saginaw steering setup I
decided to copy something from my TJ. A tube going across the front to keep the
frame from twisting The axels are D30 from a CJ5 and a flanged D44 from a CJ5. Front
I regeared to 4.88 gears and a Lock Right. Some might scoff at the Lock Right
but I have nothing but good things to say about them. I have sheared the pins
on the one in my TJs front dana HP30, but that is being abused by a 5.9L Dodge
V8 and 35s plus they are cheap and easy to work on. The rear is a flanged Dana 44 with a Detroit Locker, regeared to
4.88.
Front torn apart and cleaned up.
All put back together, gear set I used was Motive gear. it set
up pretty well.
Rear getting a cleaning
I decided to forgo a disk brake conversion
The transmission is a T90, followed by a Spicer 18, then a Warn
OD, then a Ramsey PTO. The whole thing is coupled to a 1997 Jeep 2.5L using a
bellhousing from a S-10 with a 2.8L and an a-dapter plate. I got lucky the
input shaft on the transmission is the correct length. I prefer the T90 as it
has R down to 1st. The smart money would have been something along the lines of
an SM transmission. It would have made finding a clutch and throw out bearing
that much simpler.
A hole was drilled for the crank position sensor
The clutch is where it got a little interesting, I had a very
difficult time finding a 9"clutch that had the same spline count as a T90.
Seattle Brake and Clutch had a 10" clutch disk, unfortunately they didnt
know what it came from, it was just sitting on some shelf on the back for an
untold number of years. So I cut the disk down to 9" and hoping it holds
up. On the plus side they said they can rebuild this disk even though its been
cut. the pressure plate is just your standard TJ.
The throw out bearing and salve cylinder where also going to be
an issue. because of the two bumps on the side of the T90 I couldnt use an
outside mounted slave cylinder. I decided to go with Tilton Engineering throw
out bearing and slave cylinder combo. Its a nice unit and very adjustable, some
machining required to get it to fit on the main bearing retainer.
The engine came out of a 1997 Dodge Dakota, I got the truck for
$500. I wanted a whole vehicle so I would also have the wiring harness and
computer. plus other bits and pieces.
All torn apart and ready for the machine shop
Back from the machine shop and assembled
The passenger side engine mount I was able to re-use the Dakota
stuff and added a little bit to make up the difference.
Drivers side I tried using part of the Dakota stuff and adding a
little bit. Later on in the build it was realized that this wouldnt
work
Once all the rods were installed I went with this, the isolator
is a standard donut type from Summet. I should add that the transmission is in the factory location. Edited by 47cj2a - 01 Oct. 2023 at 11:16pm |
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47 CJ2A 2.5L EFI d30/d44 4.88, lockers
70 CJ5 4cy T98 stock 98 TJ 5.9L nv4500/35 spln 9"/HPd30/4.88/ 68 M416 62 Scout 80 4cyl 3spd stock 66 Coronet Base 426 4spd Post 93 LR Defender 110 2dr 200tdi |
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47cj2a
Member Joined: 04 Nov. 2005 Location: wheelin the great northwest Status: Online Points: 113 |
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The plan for the intake is this little set up. I modified the original air horn to fit on the TJ intake manifold. the intake hose is actually the old intake hose from my Defender 110 with the 200tdi engine. The air bath air cleaner will also get modified. In this picture you can see that I had to T the 2.5L temperature sending unit. this is because I plan on using the factory 2A gauges. I sent my temperature gauge to get rebuild and while they where at it i had them extend the probe or line. The modification included me just rolling and welding some 18 gauge then welding that to the 2a airhorn Tires Gota love old tire names The color I was going for Sunset Red, I dont know what the original color looked like but I used some Case Yellow. it turned out to be more of a pumpkin orange which is the color described on the 2A page Once I had my steering set up I cut
a 3" pipe and welded it in place. I ended up bracing that as well as I had
to cut the bottom of the tube to clear the steering shaft. In hindsight I didnt
have to go this big/high on the cross member Steering all set up. The steering
rod from the box to the steering column is actually my old one from my 99 Dodge
Diesel. fit perfectly Frame fixing, I didnt really have a
good surface to do much welding on that side. Plus I had to clearance the
bumper brackets a bit for the steering box. Steering box plate For the starter i had to go with the PowerMaster, this however required some light grinding. Took my old PTO apart I originally never ran the jeep with the PTO and OD unit. I first had the PTO and after many years I got an OD unit. So I had to make the drive shaft longer because of the PTO to OD adapter After all of that I was able to start on the engine mount PTO winch mounting plate, I had some 6" C channel. not quite wide enough, so I clearance it a bit for the mounting bolts I ended up slotting the C channel so the angle iron would slide in. This way I can take the whole thing apart if need be Its a tight fit I wanted to go with hanging pedals, however due to the intake manifold I had to get creative Edited by 47cj2a - 17 Feb. 2021 at 12:45pm |
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47 CJ2A 2.5L EFI d30/d44 4.88, lockers
70 CJ5 4cy T98 stock 98 TJ 5.9L nv4500/35 spln 9"/HPd30/4.88/ 68 M416 62 Scout 80 4cyl 3spd stock 66 Coronet Base 426 4spd Post 93 LR Defender 110 2dr 200tdi |
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47cj2a
Member Joined: 04 Nov. 2005 Location: wheelin the great northwest Status: Online Points: 113 |
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In the end, I fixed my worn out pedal shaft (not sure on the
name) and just went the simpler route. I first machined down the worn out part,
then i made a sleave.
The upper left to right is the factory dodge harness the lower
right is the factory jeep harness. It was a challenge a lot of cutting and lot
of was i suppose to cut that
But in the end it fired off. After all of this, I took the engine and transmission out and finished welding everything up and painting. When bleeding the the clutch one of the breaded lines started leaking it turns out I must of burnt it while welding around it so, so the transmission came out again
Master clutch cylinder reservoir
I ended up taking my factory radiator and having a
shop turn down the outlet so a TJ hose will fit
I also started playing around with the exhaust. I had a bunch of
tubbing left over from my TJ build
In the end I ended up taking it in and having a shop do it
correctly. wasnt a big fan of the 2.5" exhaust pipe
While waiting on parts for the throw out bearing, I went ahead
and tackled the fan. I am using the factory Dodge Dakota fan. rough cut the fan
and rolled a sheet of 18g
tig welded and rough install to check clearances and marked to
determine placement. at this point the transmission was not installed, the
engine was supported but not at the right angle
Try one
Once the transmission was installed i found out that the fan
motor hits the thermostat housing. removed the whole thing. I ended up welding
nuts on the back side of the tabs and some spacers to space the fan as close to
the radiator while still giving me the clearance. Its a tight fit so in the end
after its all said and done I might have to go with an aftermarket unit.
the fuel pump is below the filter and isolated
fuel lines ran. using some DIY PFTE fuel lines and AN6 fittings.
its was pretty painless, not a big fan of the big fittings, I am a pretty big
fan of the factory push to lock stuff but this is much easier. Edited by 47cj2a - 17 Feb. 2021 at 11:13am |
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47 CJ2A 2.5L EFI d30/d44 4.88, lockers
70 CJ5 4cy T98 stock 98 TJ 5.9L nv4500/35 spln 9"/HPd30/4.88/ 68 M416 62 Scout 80 4cyl 3spd stock 66 Coronet Base 426 4spd Post 93 LR Defender 110 2dr 200tdi |
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47cj2a
Member Joined: 04 Nov. 2005 Location: wheelin the great northwest Status: Online Points: 113 |
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This is not an original air filter, I dont know what its from.
In fact when I first restored the jeep back in the late 90s I had to drill out
and rotate the mounting bracket and reweld it. to make it work after a bunch of screwing around. I decided to just sand down
the pinch seam. the plan is to make this but out of some 18gauge tig weld it.
then tig weld the hole thing back together. filter I used. Wix actually has a really nice filter look up
thing. its 5" tall and 6-3/8" wide Rolled some 18 gauge, with a smaller diameter then the filter so
I could use some rubber as a seal. after tacking and making sure everything
fits i went around and welded. I thought I would have to add some steel and a spring to the
bottom to keep the filter tight but it seems that the height is just right, so
the only thing needed was another piece of rubber. and as it sits, I need to put the tub back on so I can get the
proper rotation of the outlit to the engine and the bracket to the tub
brackets. In a way i like that the exhaust is up and out of the way but it
makes filling the tcase that much more difficult, plus heat build up. The shop
ended up putting 2" pipe, did a nice job. for shocks I am using some hand me down JK shocks, they offer
4" up and 4" down. they will probably be a little stiff for how light
this thing is but they were free. Driver side rear corner very thin aluminum covering where a hat channel used to be Got side tracked by building a bumper, really I just hate body
work and there's a lot of it. started with 4x4x0.120 square tube, was going to go with 0.188
but the yard didnt have any rems and I didnt want to buy a full stick. The tow hook is JK, buddy was getting rid of JK parts came with the shocks Cut it out to fit layed out the cut Hole cut out for fair lead and raiser block The fair lead is an old one, I dont know where it came from but
I have had it for a while. After I Miged the tow hook I ground the weld down and went over
it with the TiG Well it was inevitable Edited by 47cj2a - 17 Feb. 2021 at 11:53am |
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47 CJ2A 2.5L EFI d30/d44 4.88, lockers
70 CJ5 4cy T98 stock 98 TJ 5.9L nv4500/35 spln 9"/HPd30/4.88/ 68 M416 62 Scout 80 4cyl 3spd stock 66 Coronet Base 426 4spd Post 93 LR Defender 110 2dr 200tdi |
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47cj2a
Member Joined: 04 Nov. 2005 Location: wheelin the great northwest Status: Online Points: 113 |
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I ordered some body panels that are made in the US instead of
from Omix. While waiting for them to arrive I started on the fenders
plenty of cracks and missing tabs
and plenty of rust
after some wet sanding with 220 and a scotch bright pad
the original color is coming out. I think I will just clear coat
it all once all is said and done.
around this time my TiG machine broke down so the dog and I took
it to the local shop. My plan is to TiG most of the work using silicon
bronze filler rod. I kind of want to leave all the patch panels showing, and
clear coating them. will see.... while i was working on the fender, the patch panels came in. so I moved the tub to the rear shed and started cutting out rust. I had to cut a hole in the fire wall to make room for the 2.5L Jeep engine. oringially I was going to make this a bolt on cover to give me access to transmission bolts thats why its a little on the larger side. But in the end decided to just weld it in. The side steps? I decided to re use some of the old floor to patch it in I had bought a new rear pannel but decided to make my own as I was not cutting away the whole thing. The new corners are very well made. Passenger side was a little more work but not bad more old floor recycle the worst of it Used some more of the old floor to make up a small patch panel All the patch panels I bought have been of great quality and all fit with out any major issues considering how old the jeep is. I bought all the patch panels from Classic Enterprises. Great guys to deal with, answered all my questions and the shipping was quick. the plus side is that they are made in the US. A whole lot of wet sanding and using oven cleaner to peal back old paint and grime The outside of the body had been sanded down and primered long before i got it, so no original color on the outside I pretty much have the body sanded all the way down. just waiting for the welder to come back. next up is to tackle the windshield frame rust, and sand down the gril. once the welder is back i can finish welding and primer. I have been going at this project for about 10 years now. I took a long break, and only just started it back up 1.5 years ago. pretty much up to this point from the first day i brought the frame back in has been about 1.5 years. its been a slow going, work, motorcycles, house project just life in general. I have been meaning to post and will make sure to keep it up dated as it progresses |
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47 CJ2A 2.5L EFI d30/d44 4.88, lockers
70 CJ5 4cy T98 stock 98 TJ 5.9L nv4500/35 spln 9"/HPd30/4.88/ 68 M416 62 Scout 80 4cyl 3spd stock 66 Coronet Base 426 4spd Post 93 LR Defender 110 2dr 200tdi |
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drm101
Member Joined: 12 Dec. 2012 Location: Clarkston, MI Status: Offline Points: 1468 |
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Beautiful work. Thanks for sharing. Even the pics in your shop are cool. Looking forward to watching your progress.
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Dean
'47 CJ2A "Mud Hen" The less the Power the More the Force |
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berettajeep
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 03 Feb. 2009 Location: Astoria OR Status: Offline Points: 4304 |
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Thanks for posting your build, enjoyed reading it this morning and looking forward to future posts. The CJ5 in your photos looks like one I've seen in Astoria and also in Ocean Park on my way to pick up my girls daughter.
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rocnroll
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Tuscumbia, AL Status: Online Points: 13562 |
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Interesting project
Nice work and innovative problem solving. Should be a nice driver with a vintage look, something so many strive for and don't accomplish. Congratulations, it's looking good. |
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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47cj2a
Member Joined: 04 Nov. 2005 Location: wheelin the great northwest Status: Online Points: 113 |
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I wanted a modern fuel injection engine thats why i went with OBDII. I know the 2.5L Jeep engine pretty well, its lighter then the old LHead, it has twice the HP but only 30% more torque so all the factory stuff should live behind it just fine. I could of probably gone with a 4.10 gear set but I figured with the OD unit I should still be able to comfort cruise it on the highway at 60 65. I could of probably gone with a TBI 2.5L for the simplicity of the wiring, but once you cut out 90% of the Dodge harness its not terrible.
Theres a history to this CJ5, I bought it from a guy out in the Peninsula in WA. it came from Idaho, from the paper work i got with it it seems like it was owned by a Malcolm Renfrew. He bought it from a jeep dealer out in Enterprise Oregon. It has a parking permit for U of I 1976 the year he retired. I think he just used it to plow snow and drive it to work in the winters. It was optioned with the t-98 4 spd and F Head. Its actually in really good condition. and even though it did have plow on it (it was gone before I got it) the frame isnt bent, cracked or rusted out. I put the Longview AMC dealer frames on it because I couldnt find any Kiaser dealer frames and my budy had these laying around. I figured its close enough from when AMC bought Kaiser. Edited by 47cj2a - 17 Feb. 2021 at 6:46pm |
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47 CJ2A 2.5L EFI d30/d44 4.88, lockers
70 CJ5 4cy T98 stock 98 TJ 5.9L nv4500/35 spln 9"/HPd30/4.88/ 68 M416 62 Scout 80 4cyl 3spd stock 66 Coronet Base 426 4spd Post 93 LR Defender 110 2dr 200tdi |
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berettajeep
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 03 Feb. 2009 Location: Astoria OR Status: Offline Points: 4304 |
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That was an interesting read, thanks for sharing.
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drm101
Member Joined: 12 Dec. 2012 Location: Clarkston, MI Status: Offline Points: 1468 |
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He originally majored in Journalism and then switched to Chemisty. Who does that? He obviously found his calling. Lived to be 103. Interesting guy.
Edited by drm101 - 18 Feb. 2021 at 3:01pm |
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Dean
'47 CJ2A "Mud Hen" The less the Power the More the Force |
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Barry S
Member Joined: 01 Mar. 2020 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 658 |
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Really enjoyed reading your thread! Thanks for going to all the effort to post it. You're really doing a great job on your jeep - looking forward to watching your progress!
-Barry
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1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729 194? CJ2A 04893/194304 1946 CJ2A 46745 1946 CJ2A 36723 1945 MB 413665 1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487 |
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tinman
Member Joined: 14 Apr. 2013 Location: Easton, Ma. Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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i realize this is a CJ2A page, however seeing your putting a Dodge Dakota engine into your Cj. I feel i can mention what a beautiful Dodge Hemi Coronet you have there. Can't see the rear quarters, Badges are on the front of the front quarters makes her a 66 in DD1 paint? Maybe if i asked if she the next donor for a engine swap it's OK??
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47cj2a
Member Joined: 04 Nov. 2005 Location: wheelin the great northwest Status: Online Points: 113 |
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Thanks, its a 2 door post, it actually started life out as a slant 6 three on the tree, i then swapped in a 383 4spd. After some time i swapped in a 426 hemi, hemi spd, d60. its a nice cruiser. I havnt given up on the 2a heres an update. Decided to recess the tail lights and reverse lights After I got done with the body/welding, I brought the tub back to the front garage and placed it on the jeep to see what will have to be clearnced. First thing, the OD unit to PTO adapter. Will have to fab something once the body comes off again for paint Clutch pedal to hat channel engine intake to drivers side fender Its getting to be a tight fit. Realistcly I should of probably gone with a simpler 4cyl and a stand alone fuel injection unit. something something 20 20 The drivers side fender Hat channel does not line up very well to the mounting holes. The passenger side was a no issue. |
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47 CJ2A 2.5L EFI d30/d44 4.88, lockers
70 CJ5 4cy T98 stock 98 TJ 5.9L nv4500/35 spln 9"/HPd30/4.88/ 68 M416 62 Scout 80 4cyl 3spd stock 66 Coronet Base 426 4spd Post 93 LR Defender 110 2dr 200tdi |
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47cj2a
Member Joined: 04 Nov. 2005 Location: wheelin the great northwest Status: Online Points: 113 |
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Battery tray needed some clearance as well, battery will have to be moved around a bit to make it work Also needed to raise it a little bit. also wanted to make it a bolt on part as room is getting scarce. A lot of light sanding but the original color is coming back
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47 CJ2A 2.5L EFI d30/d44 4.88, lockers
70 CJ5 4cy T98 stock 98 TJ 5.9L nv4500/35 spln 9"/HPd30/4.88/ 68 M416 62 Scout 80 4cyl 3spd stock 66 Coronet Base 426 4spd Post 93 LR Defender 110 2dr 200tdi |
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47cj2a
Member Joined: 04 Nov. 2005 Location: wheelin the great northwest Status: Online Points: 113 |
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The converted air box, using an old LR Defender intake hose. actually a pretty good fit. Mounted the computer using riv nuts finished up the acc pedal, using part of the old Dodge Dakota pedal assembly. I also cut about 2.5" from the clutch and brake pedals. I never liked the angle my feet were at. at full stroke these are just above the floor boards. it also puts the brake and acc much closer together. also using riv nuts mounted the clutch reservoir Sorry for the big pics but the site i use to host changed the settings and I have no idea how to re size any more.
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47 CJ2A 2.5L EFI d30/d44 4.88, lockers
70 CJ5 4cy T98 stock 98 TJ 5.9L nv4500/35 spln 9"/HPd30/4.88/ 68 M416 62 Scout 80 4cyl 3spd stock 66 Coronet Base 426 4spd Post 93 LR Defender 110 2dr 200tdi |
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47cj2a
Member Joined: 04 Nov. 2005 Location: wheelin the great northwest Status: Online Points: 113 |
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Since i have a manual steering box I really dont need the power steering pump or oil reservoir. the dakota fan wasnt going to work. it sat way to close to the radiator and too close to the engine. I pulled it out and went on reworking the whole thing with an aftermarket fan. test fit with no trim work on the extra material, 18 gauge steel. new skiny fan fits right at home with the old fan i only had about 1/2" of clearance to the thermostat and about that much to the radiator. everything is held in place with riv nuts. really starting to like those things. lastly was this hole in the fender to clear the intake, I really should of chosen a simpler 4cyl... used riv nuts to attach the cover and covered, it should clear the tire. when the jeep gets taken apart for paint i can clean up the welds and paint with the rest of it.
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47 CJ2A 2.5L EFI d30/d44 4.88, lockers
70 CJ5 4cy T98 stock 98 TJ 5.9L nv4500/35 spln 9"/HPd30/4.88/ 68 M416 62 Scout 80 4cyl 3spd stock 66 Coronet Base 426 4spd Post 93 LR Defender 110 2dr 200tdi |
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47cj2a
Member Joined: 04 Nov. 2005 Location: wheelin the great northwest Status: Online Points: 113 |
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Went to the local pick and pull to see what I could come up for a idler pully in place of the PS pump. Found a AC delete pully from a early 90s ZJ with the 4.0L that was the same diameter as the PS pully for ~$13. new pully next to the PS pump. the aluminum spacer, washer and back up spacer came up with the pully. The back up spacer will not fit over the shaft and it was to wide to fit inside the PS pump. spacer machined and installed. note the two surfaces dont like to weld to each other very well. I also had to machine the weld off so the spacer would fit flush up against the back up spacer. then the whole thing was welded onto the pump. this should prevent the shaft from spinning. The end of the PS shaft was also machined down to give the spring washer the room. I dont know how much it matters but thats how it was on the vehicle I took it off of. Reinstalled.
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47 CJ2A 2.5L EFI d30/d44 4.88, lockers
70 CJ5 4cy T98 stock 98 TJ 5.9L nv4500/35 spln 9"/HPd30/4.88/ 68 M416 62 Scout 80 4cyl 3spd stock 66 Coronet Base 426 4spd Post 93 LR Defender 110 2dr 200tdi |
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