Clutch Cable Connection |
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pplaut
Member Joined: 26 Apr. 2020 Location: Colfax, NC Status: Offline Points: 68 |
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Posted: 02 July 2020 at 11:01pm |
The drama continues. I paid a guy to put the transmission together and get the CJ driveable.
The transmission is now correct and shifting. The clutch cable was very loose when I started working on the above problem. My focus was on getting the transmission and transfer case working correctly. I was hooking up the clutch cable and when I tugged on it to test, the thing came completely out out of the bell housing? It does not ever seem to be connected. I'm currently reviewing the CJ Service Manual for any ideas. Any tips and trick will be much appreciated. Thanks! ~P.
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Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1500 |
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Is it a new cable? There have been issues with the replacement being longer than the original. I had it happen to me.
Micah
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1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
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pplaut
Member Joined: 26 Apr. 2020 Location: Colfax, NC Status: Offline Points: 68 |
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It is a new cable. Near as I can tell, the guy I paid to put it all together for me, among other things forgot to put the cable in when he put the transmission back on, among other things. He was fired, and nobody else at the shop wanted to work on it. I brought tit home and decided to do it myself. Anyway, is it possible to put the cable in, without removing everything?
I'm not optimistic. I was able to eventually find a video, that looked like the transmission would have to come off to hook the cable back on. Its more of the same here. At least I am making progress on my own. I just hate I spend so much money and so much time with people who should have just said, they didn't know what they were doing and not try and take this on. :/ ~P.
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19Cargo42
Member Joined: 23 Apr. 2018 Location: Western Mass. Status: Offline Points: 570 |
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Check out this video. I think you can get it without removing the transmission.
Let us know how you make out. John
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Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1500 |
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I hate it when you pay people to screw things up and then have them walk away.
Entirely possible to do. I did not find out my cable was too long until I had it all in. Just took a bit of time to gut my hands in there and get the fork back on the throw-out bearing. Don't get discouraged. In this thread is a photo of the two cables. Maybe someone can get you a measurement of an original before you go through the trouble of getting yours in. Micah
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1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
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pplaut
Member Joined: 26 Apr. 2020 Location: Colfax, NC Status: Offline Points: 68 |
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Getting back on this - life gets in the way.
Well, it looks like the control level is off and now in the bottom of the bell housing. I have tried getting it out with magnets and such, and even then it doesn't seem possible to get it back in without dropping the unit. Since the transmission and transfer case are together and working (finally), my plan is disconnect the drive shafts at the differentials drop the entire thing as a unit I have a transmission jack I am hoping I can just slide it back far enough to get into the bell housing. Any thoughts on this plan? Thanks! ~P.
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3191 |
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If you didn't have bad luck, you wouldn't have any luck at all...
I have had that happen to me and I removed the transmission and transfer case as a unit to get to the clutch bearing fork. I really tried to get it out but it was jammed in such a place that the magnet I had wouldn't pick it up. When you move the trans-transfer case unit back you will have to move it back far enough that the input shaft on the transmission will probably disengage from the pilot bushing in the flywheel. You will need some way to realign the input shaft into the pilot bushing without causing damage to the bushing. I have had a couple of people tell me over the years that it is possible to separate the transmission just far enough that the shaft doesn't disengage the pilot bushing and allow the clutch fork to dislodge from wherever it is caught so that a magnet will be able to retrieve it. If you can get the fork out that way it may be able to be put back in its proper place and the transmission bolted to the bellhousing without wrestling the input shaft back into the pilot bushing. My personal experience is that I couldn't make that happen, but you mileage may vary... A couple of things to remember... Make sure the clutch fork where the clutch cable attaches isn't bent in so that the clutch cable ball can be installed after the whole thing is put together. You might be able to get the whole unit installed with the clutch cable already installed and hanging out of the bellhousing, but I have never done that successfully. If the end of the clutch fork happens to be bent, the chances of getting straighten out while installed without dislodging it aren't good. ASK ME How I KNOW THIS! The other thing to remember is to install the clutch pivot shaft with the spring end towards the transfer case pivot ball. (The load spring goes in that end, and it is the longer arm on the pivot tube on that end). To do otherwise (with the short arm towards the transfer case) will cause the clutch fork to be pulled too far and the cable will disengage from the clutch cable and damage the clutch fork end where the clutch cable ball installs. Don't give up! We are all here to help you succeed. Perhaps others reading this thread have different suggestions on how to dislodge the lost fork from the bottom of the bellhousing. I never had that kind of luck. |
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1500 |
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Peer,
Don't give up yet. Find someone with small hands who likes getting greasy. I had the same thing happen and I got ahold of it and put it all back together without pulling it all apart again. I had just pulled the engine and trans and the last thing I was going to do was pull it out again. Once you get it out, wrap some string or wire around the fork so you don't lose it again. Just cut it off when you button it up. Keep at it, you will get is. Micah
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1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
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pplaut
Member Joined: 26 Apr. 2020 Location: Colfax, NC Status: Offline Points: 68 |
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Steely - LOL thanks for the encouragment. I think I have it! I did what you said. Prior to reading your post. I'm like there is NO WAY, I'm pulling this entire thing apart again.. I used page 155 of the manual as a guide. I don't have small hands, but using a long thick tie strap and some yellow tape on the ball to keep the cable on the fork I'm good.
I have some more questions, but I think they are going to be around adjustment. I can now move the fork and it springs back, but seems like at some point it should put pressure on the clutch. An adjustment somewhere I assume? Thanks for your encouragement. Maybe I can get this done by our 10th wedding anniversary. I've missed a lot of deadlines on this project. Unhappy wife, unhappy life.. LOL |
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