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cal.bar View Drop Down
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    Posted: 11 Feb. 2018 at 9:09pm
Hey Gang.  Clutch question for you.  Recently rebuilt the trans etc.  Pulled the clutch and everything looked ok as far as the clutch disc etc.  But... reinstalled etc. and here's what I have.
I am getting clutch drag going into first and rev.  Looking into the inspection door, my throwout bearing is already in constant contact with the clutch fingers. (already have the cable tightened all the way)  I have to push the clutch all the way to the floor and hold for 4 sec before the spinning stops.  The clutch pedal cable is obviously over tight as the TO bearing is always spinning, but like I said, I have to go to the floor to get the spinning to stop.
 
I do have 1.25 inches of free motion in the pedal before the clutch peddle begins to engage and move the T/O bearing.  Not sure if I need to actually replace the clutch disc  etc. or is there a way to take up the 1.25 freeplay in the pedal without tightening the cable?
 
Thanks,
 
David
 
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Pilot bushing too tight?
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OK, not sure, but one post before mentioned test for T/O bearing being too tight was to shift into 2nd and see if the input shaft stops.  Yes, it does.  But not sure if a fair test in mine as the T/O bearing is up against the clutch fingers to start with.
 


Edited by cal.bar - 11 Feb. 2018 at 9:51pm
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Maybe the tube/lever that goes from transfer case to frame is backwards

     Jim
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Great thought.  I don't think you can put that in backwards?  Can you?  I wouldn't think the actuator bars would line up with the holes on the tube parts if it were backwards
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Originally posted by WeeWilly WeeWilly wrote:

Maybe the tube/lever that goes from transfer case to frame is backwards

     Jim
I agree with Jim. The symptoms you describe fit the situation of a reversed control lever and tube.

The longest lever on the tube should be connected to the clutch cable.
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Yes, sad to say they can, and one lever is longer than the other.

    Jim
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Originally posted by WeeWilly WeeWilly wrote:

Yes, sad to say they can, and one lever is longer than the other.

    Jim
 
Nope.  Longer lever (not much longer) but longer, on is up against the Trans/TC and connected to the clutch cable
 
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Originally posted by otto otto wrote:

Pilot bushing too tight?
 
Never replaced the Pilot.  Just pulled clutch plate, inspected and replaced.
 
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Where is the 1.25 of play coming from. If the throw out bearing in against the pressure plate fingers there shouldn't be any play.

   Jim
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Could the clutch have been put in backwards?

    Jim
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Originally posted by WeeWilly WeeWilly wrote:

Where is the 1.25 of play coming from. If the throw out bearing in against the pressure plate fingers there shouldn't be any play.

   Jim
 
EXACTLY!  Seems like the play comes from the movement of the rods from the pedal to the clutch wire.  My pedal moves 1.25 inches down before it even moves the wire.
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Originally posted by WeeWilly WeeWilly wrote:

Could the clutch have been put in backwards?

    Jim
 
Which part of the clutch?  Do you mean the entire clutch plate assembly?  Not sure even I could get that to work when backwards.
 
 
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I was thinking of the clutch disc that goes between the pressure plate and the flywheel. They can be put in backwards. The protruding center part of the disc goes toward the transmission. Some companies use to stamp them which way to install it.

    Jim
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OK:  update.  a big part of the 1.25 inches of play in the clutch appears to be in the rod that connects the front pedal lever to the rear lever.  It looks like the rod is well worn and is sliding back and forth in the holes of the lever.  The holes are larger than the rod, so when the pedal is depressed, there is the travel until the levers are engaged.  Seems a bit like steering slop when the tie rods and bell crank move without turning the wheels.  Perhaps just getting new rods will help take up the slack?  In the mean time, should I loosen the clutch cable since it is now so tight that the T/O bearing is always spinning?
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Hey...just my 2 cts. But if the clutch disc is in backwards,  it would hang up on the flywheel bolt heads all of the time, not just for a short time at idle. I suspect the pilot bearing is dragging on the input shaft. You are correct that the throw out bearing should not touch the clutch plate fingers when released. Even if it did though, it wouldn't cause the Trans to turn, as it rides on the guide tube, not the impute shaft. 
MG
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Ok..so if the slip in the linkage is such that the clutch is not depressed enough to completely release the disc, then there lies the problem. Yes, adjust the cable so that the throw out bearing does not touch when released. Correct the linkage pin slop issue, and that will be a step in the right direction.
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I just checked out the Kaiser Willy's video on the clutch release bellcrank master repair kit.  Now I KNOW bubba didn't install the springs and things.  My tube just sits in between the TC ball and the outer clutch release pivot studs.  How important are the springs and things?  Do you all use them - felt pads and all?
 
My clutch bellcrank is just sitting there - no spring tension.
 
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