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Clutch issues

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cal.bar View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cal.bar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb. 2018 at 4:49pm
Originally posted by TERRY TERRY wrote:

The pilot  bush will loosen up in time.
 
Not sure about the pilot bushing as the jeep was over 10 years from a total redo when I got it and I didn't change the pilot bushing, clutch plate or main shaft.  That pilot bushing has to be 10 years old or more.  I have 1100 miles on the jeep so far and all of it on that bushing as well.  I think if it were tight, it would have loosed up by now.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cal.bar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb. 2018 at 4:50pm
Originally posted by Oilleaker1 Oilleaker1 wrote:

As long as you are not grinding into gear it should wear itself in. If it's grinding, stop and fix it, or you will ruin all your new parts. I know all too well about your feelings of not going back in again. Probably the worst thing to fix in a Jeep, other than sanding ribbed floors and doing bodywork-------YUK! John
 
Yeah, I know how to drive it now.  Nice and SLOWLY.  I give the clutch a 3 second count before going into first or rev. from a stop.  No grinding.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cal.bar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb. 2018 at 4:52pm
Originally posted by Lee (MN) Lee (MN) wrote:

You may have bent the hub in the clutch disc on assembly, it's not hard to do (I know!). This makes the disc wobble and has the exact symptoms you describe.

Lee
 
Thanks Lee.  Tell me more about the hub.  Which part is it and how do you bend it during re-install?  Can that be seen through the view hatch?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flatfender47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb. 2018 at 6:31pm
I think he's talking about the center splined hub in the clutch disc.
It can get bent while trying to reinstall the transmission shaft into the splines.
You've reinstalled 4 times lately; depends on how aggressive you were pushing 
on the transmission while trying to get everything lined up and pushed forward.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lee MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb. 2018 at 7:30pm
Originally posted by flatfender47 flatfender47 wrote:

I think he's talking about the center splined hub in the clutch disc.
It can get bent while trying to reinstall the transmission shaft into the splines.
You've reinstalled 4 times lately; depends on how aggressive you were pushing 
on the transmission while trying to get everything lined up and pushed forward.


Exactly!, the center hub is swedged into a piece of sheet metal that's what gets bent, in my case I was installing the engine and had the input shaft stabbed into the clutch disc, about then I had a phone call and the engine hoist drifted down and bent the hub making the disc wobble, the wobble causes the pressure plate to drag not allowing you to get into first gear... Also the same thing can happen if you pull the trans & engine together with longer bolts.

Lee
               LEE
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cal.bar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb. 2018 at 2:16am
Interesting!  Can that be visualized through the viewing hatch? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lee MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb. 2018 at 2:33am
Originally posted by cal.bar cal.bar wrote:


Interesting!  Can that be visualized through the viewing hatch? 


I do not think so, If I can find the bad disk I'll chuck it in my lathe and you can see the wobble.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb. 2018 at 3:07am
Originally posted by cal.bar cal.bar wrote:

okay update post. I got Kaiser Willys clutch controls repair kit and replaced most everything there which tightened up the slop in the clutch dramatically I no longer have to go all the way to the floor to (dis)engage the clutch and keep it from dragging. I still have to hold it for 2 to 3 seconds before shifting but I suppose that is more or less normal
(dis) added by me. BW

I would say you are correct, it is normal. When the clutch is disengaged, all that spinning stuff wants to continue spinning. Inertia. Also, the clutch plate can easily still be touching the flywheel or pressure plate which will try to keep it turning, and even the air between the parts can act as a sort of "fluid coupling". It takes a bit for all this to coast down, and with first and reverse not synchronized, they will clash if you try to shift before they stop. As someone said, shift into second or third then into first or reverse, let the 2-3 synchro act as a brake. Or just slow down, enjoy the day, wait a bit, and shift in.  BW

It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cal.bar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb. 2018 at 5:08pm
Originally posted by Bruce W Bruce W wrote:

Originally posted by cal.bar cal.bar wrote:

okay update post. I got Kaiser Willys clutch controls repair kit and replaced most everything there which tightened up the slop in the clutch dramatically I no longer have to go all the way to the floor to (dis)engage the clutch and keep it from dragging. I still have to hold it for 2 to 3 seconds before shifting but I suppose that is more or less normal
(dis) added by me. BW

I would say you are correct, it is normal. When the clutch is disengaged, all that spinning stuff wants to continue spinning. Inertia. Also, the clutch plate can easily still be touching the flywheel or pressure plate which will try to keep it turning, and even the air between the parts can act as a sort of "fluid coupling". It takes a bit for all this to coast down, and with first and reverse not synchronized, they will clash if you try to shift before they stop. As someone said, shift into second or third then into first or reverse, let the 2-3 synchro act as a brake. Or just slow down, enjoy the day, wait a bit, and shift in.  BW

 
Yep.  Driving my jeep is all about slowing down to a simpler time.  2-3 seconds to shift into first is just part of the experience.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb. 2018 at 8:12pm
Originally posted by cal.bar cal.bar wrote:

Originally posted by Bruce W Bruce W wrote:

Originally posted by cal.bar cal.bar wrote:

okay update post. I got Kaiser Willys clutch controls repair kit and replaced most everything there which tightened up the slop in the clutch dramatically I no longer have to go all the way to the floor to (dis)engage the clutch and keep it from dragging. I still have to hold it for 2 to 3 seconds before shifting but I suppose that is more or less normal
(dis) added by me. BW

I would say you are correct, it is normal. When the clutch is disengaged, all that spinning stuff wants to continue spinning. Inertia. Also, the clutch plate can easily still be touching the flywheel or pressure plate which will try to keep it turning, and even the air between the parts can act as a sort of "fluid coupling". It takes a bit for all this to coast down, and with first and reverse not synchronized, they will clash if you try to shift before they stop. As someone said, shift into second or third then into first or reverse, let the 2-3 synchro act as a brake. Or just slow down, enjoy the day, wait a bit, and shift in.  BW

 
Yep.  Driving my jeep is all about slowing down to a simpler time.  2-3 seconds to shift into first is just part of the experience.

It's easy for some of us. It's the way we learned to drive.  BW
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cal.bar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb. 2018 at 4:45am
Originally posted by Bruce W Bruce W wrote:

Originally posted by cal.bar cal.bar wrote:

Originally posted by Bruce W Bruce W wrote:

Originally posted by cal.bar cal.bar wrote:

okay update post. I got Kaiser Willys clutch controls repair kit and replaced most everything there which tightened up the slop in the clutch dramatically I no longer have to go all the way to the floor to (dis)engage the clutch and keep it from dragging. I still have to hold it for 2 to 3 seconds before shifting but I suppose that is more or less normal
(dis) added by me. BW

I would say you are correct, it is normal. When the clutch is disengaged, all that spinning stuff wants to continue spinning. Inertia. Also, the clutch plate can easily still be touching the flywheel or pressure plate which will try to keep it turning, and even the air between the parts can act as a sort of "fluid coupling". It takes a bit for all this to coast down, and with first and reverse not synchronized, they will clash if you try to shift before they stop. As someone said, shift into second or third then into first or reverse, let the 2-3 synchro act as a brake. Or just slow down, enjoy the day, wait a bit, and shift in.  BW

 
Yep.  Driving my jeep is all about slowing down to a simpler time.  2-3 seconds to shift into first is just part of the experience.

It's easy for some of us. It's the way we learned to drive.  BW
 
LOL!  I'm just a product of the modern age! But I do enjoy driving my CJ and pretending it's 1947.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cal.bar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar. 2018 at 8:31pm
OK - post update update.  Having more issues with the clutch.  When the jeep is parked on a hill or offroad etc.  Have a real issue with dragging.  So much so that SOMETIMES even when I put it into second from a dead stop with the clutch all the way in, it makes a taka taka taka noise that is obviously the clutch plate still spinning.  So even going into second won't stop the inertia of the clutch plate.  This appears to be intermittent, but is a new thing just today.
 
I'm beginning to think I will have to go back in and replace the entire clutch plate and assembly.
They were from the original referb over 10 years ago.  I pulled everything apart a few months ago and everything looked good, but now I'm not sure that I didn't bend the splined hub of the clutch plate.
 
Thoughts?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flatfender47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar. 2018 at 8:35pm
Probably should refresh all of our memories...

If you try to start the Jeep in gear, does it creep ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cal.bar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar. 2018 at 8:38pm
Originally posted by flatfender47 flatfender47 wrote:

Probably should refresh all of our memories...

If you try to start the Jeep in gear, does it creep ?
 
Do you mean does it jump forward?  Yes, sure does.  The clutch is not slipping, just the opposite, it drags going into first.  Most of the time, going into second before going back to first stops the spinning, but today it kept spinning even after going into second with the clutch pedal to the floor.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flatfender47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar. 2018 at 8:48pm
All I can think of is to check and double check all the external  clutch linkage components for wear and/or proper adjustment.
Maybe a buddy underneath watching everything while the pedal is depressed and released (engine off).
Is there anything to be gained while looking thru the bellhousing inspection cover while doing the same thing ? (engine off) Can you get a small mirror positioned for a looksie ?
If nothing appears out of miss externally, then you know the answer..pull it out again.
Trying to recall my 4 banger days.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cal.bar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar. 2018 at 9:24pm
Yep.  sadly, wondering if I might have bent the hub or maybe put the clutch plate in backwards?  Who knows.  I really HATE taking the trans apart in this thing.  This would be the FOURTH time in two years!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar. 2018 at 9:35pm
while you are in there, check the end float on the engine crankshaft. Too much shifting forwards and the clutch won't totally release. None of these ideas are making you feel good, I know. John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cal.bar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar. 2018 at 11:51pm
Originally posted by Oilleaker1 Oilleaker1 wrote:

while you are in there, check the end float on the engine crankshaft. Too much shifting forwards and the clutch won't totally release. None of these ideas are making you feel good, I know. John
 
How do I do that precisely John?
 
 
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