Forum Home Forum Home > CJ-2A Discussion Area > Tech Questions and Answers
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - clutch linkage
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

clutch linkage

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  12>
Author
Message
TexasWillys12 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 01 Sep. 2016
Location: Granbury, Tx
Status: Offline
Points: 54
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TexasWillys12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: clutch linkage
    Posted: 09 Feb. 2017 at 11:50pm
Finally have the engine trans/transfer back on the frame!  Having trouble with the clutch adjustment.  Got new cross tube and cable from kiser willy  but things are not going back togther right.  The new cable is slightlly too long by 1/2 inch but even if a take up the slight the cross bar tab is rotated to forward at the cable rest on top of the trans.  I read in another post the rod maybe too long but it is the same length as my old old.  I did try and and shorten my old rod and it  did help get the tab more verticle but the spring pulling the pedal is then almost too loose and barley stays in the hole on the frame.  It amost seems there needs to be stop to prevent the clutch pedal shaft from rotating backwards any thoughts 









Back to Top
smfulle View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 16 Sep. 2010
Location: Ogden, Utah
Status: Offline
Points: 5260
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb. 2017 at 1:06am
There is a stop. It's called the floor of your tub. Here's a picture of where my pedal is.



Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
Grampa's Jeep Build Thread
Back to Top
rocketeer View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 26 June 2008
Location: Lehighton, PA
Status: Offline
Points: 3464
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocketeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb. 2017 at 8:45am
The solid rod from the pedal to the cross shaft should be 10 1/2 inches center to center. The cable should be 11 1/4 inches. On the cross shaft the short arm goes to the frame side. Without the tub in place to function as a pedal stop it's very difficult to get the adjustment correct. I can tell from the photo that the clutch pedal is too far back. Don't forget the draft pads when finally putting the pedals together, their added spacing affects the adjustment.

A recent thread with the same issue:

http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/clutch-linkage-questionyet-again_topic34816.html




Edited by rocketeer - 10 Feb. 2017 at 8:47am
Back to Top
tamnalan View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 08 Oct. 2013
Location: Port Orford, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 698
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tamnalan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb. 2017 at 12:36pm
You might consider changing to heim joints.  McMaster Carr has 'em for cheap.
 
Alan Johnson
1943 MB - "Lt Bob"
1950 cj3a
M-100 x2
teardrop camper
Back to Top
Bill Norris View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 01 May 2006
Location: MI
Status: Offline
Points: 1643
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Norris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb. 2017 at 1:50pm
Your return spring looks like its mounted upside down/backwards. Look at Stan's spring.
 
Bill
Holy Toledo! Jeep Calendars and the Dispatcher Jeep magazine

http://dispatchermagazine.com
Back to Top
TexasWillys12 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 01 Sep. 2016
Location: Granbury, Tx
Status: Offline
Points: 54
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TexasWillys12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb. 2017 at 11:29pm
Got it all together but the clutch will not disengage.  Tried shorter control rod it seems to max out on pushing the fingers in.  The pilot bushing was extremely tight on the main shaft could it be the cause of the main shaft still and clutch plate still turning?
Back to Top
athawk11 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 17 Jan. 2012
Location: Arvada,Colorado
Status: Offline
Points: 3764
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb. 2017 at 11:56pm
Originally posted by TexasWillys12 TexasWillys12 wrote:

The pilot bushing was extremely tight on the main shaft could it be the cause of the main shaft still and clutch plate still turning?


Yes. My new bushing required a small amount of reaming. Same simptoms you're having.
1- 1946 CJ2A   
2- 1949 CJ3A
Back to Top
Ol' Unreliable View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 25 Sep. 2016
Location: CO Springs CO
Status: Offline
Points: 4025
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb. 2017 at 12:43pm
A note about Heim joints in automotive applications: I once went to a place that sells the joints and they wouldn't sell me non-aircraft-rated Heim joints for my Jeep.  Safety issue, they said. Twice the price for the aircraft-rated joint.
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
Back to Top
tamnalan View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 08 Oct. 2013
Location: Port Orford, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 698
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tamnalan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb. 2017 at 7:55pm
That's a very good point about safety.  Ok, I'm not a paid endorser for McMaster Carr... I do love that store though.  They offer all sorts of grades of things like this.  I don't remember seeing anything that claimed aviation compliance, but they do sell military grade (MIL-SPEC) stuff.  It's spendy.  The joints I got were typical of what a performance outlet like Summit might sell.  They seemed well made and I spent extra for rubber seals for each joint.  In this case, I don't think they would be less reliable over the long term than the factory design.  Those steel-on-steel factory pivot points can wear quickly.  Anyone interested, here's a writeup I did on it.  http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=283292
Alan Johnson
1943 MB - "Lt Bob"
1950 cj3a
M-100 x2
teardrop camper
Back to Top
SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 2

Joined: 22 Jan. 2016
Location: S.E. Kansas
Status: Offline
Points: 1822
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb. 2017 at 8:13pm
Originally posted by tamnalan tamnalan wrote:


That's a very good point about safety.  Ok, I'm not a paid endorser for McMaster Carr... I do love that store though.  They offer all sorts of grades of things like this.  I don't remember seeing anything that claimed aviation compliance, but they do sell military grade (MIL-SPEC) stuff.


Having spent a good deal of my time of my military career dealing with procurement issues I am sometimes a little careful with Mil-spec stuff because I keep thinking that the contracts for supplying things to the military most always went to the lowest bidder. I don't have many problems with McMaster-Carr quality, but I do wish their callouts in the catalogs and online were a little more detailed. Brand names would help on many items. Most of the hardware used on the resto-mod for "Ol Red" was purchcased through the M-C online site and I have not experienced any problems with it.
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red"

U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer (ret.)



Back to Top
TexasWillys12 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 01 Sep. 2016
Location: Granbury, Tx
Status: Offline
Points: 54
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TexasWillys12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2017 at 10:42pm
Stupid clutch!!!  Checked the pilot bushing and shaft rotates freely.  Got to noticing the fork bottoms out on the bell housing when clutch is fully depressed so I got enough travel on the rod.  Also noticed the fingers on the clutch seemed to have bottomed out also. Should the input shaft totally stop turning when the clutch pedal is depressed.  We have no load on the transmisson.  Its in neutral while testing.   What's next?  Adjust the clutch AngryAngryAngry





Edited by TexasWillys12 - 26 Feb. 2017 at 11:05pm
Back to Top
Roger F View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 14 May 2016
Location: Albion, WA
Status: Offline
Points: 46
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Roger F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb. 2017 at 2:06am
I just went through this ordeal. This seems to be a really common problem. After reading several threads regarding the cable and control rod lengths, I ordered the recommended parts from Walks. Long story short, I had discrepancies between the recommended lengths, and what was on my '46 CJ2A

Recommended: Cable, 11.25"      Control rod, 10.5"
My Jeep       Cable, 10.5      Control rod,  9.5"
I wound up using the longer cable and shorter rod to make it work properly.

In the process of installing and removing the cables, I somehow knocked the fork off the pivot ball and it moved ahead of the throw out bearing ears(see picture) I was experiencing the same issues you are. With help from others on this forum, I was able to reach in and re position the fork behind the bearing, and all is well. See my question from about 3 weeks back. Also, check out the diagram, and look at the position of the cross shaft ears, Mine aren't quite that pronounced, but it gives you an idea   
Roger F
Back to Top
Adrian View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 01 Oct. 2011
Location: New Zealand
Status: Offline
Points: 1517
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adrian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb. 2017 at 3:46am
The fork pushes on the ears, not the bearing......that's why the cable end of the fork has hit the inside of the bell housing.
1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
1973 Saab 96
Back to Top
tamnalan View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 08 Oct. 2013
Location: Port Orford, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 698
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tamnalan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb. 2017 at 8:04am
I had problems like this too.  There seems to be a fair amount of variation in some of the replacement parts dimensions.  There's some trial and error jiggling involved to get everything to work together.  My control rod was supposed to be 9 inches center to center, but it ended up at about 8 3/8" to work properly.
 
I suggest avoiding adjusting the clutch itself until all else fails.
Alan Johnson
1943 MB - "Lt Bob"
1950 cj3a
M-100 x2
teardrop camper
Back to Top
TexasWillys12 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 01 Sep. 2016
Location: Granbury, Tx
Status: Offline
Points: 54
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TexasWillys12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb. 2017 at 9:16am
I feel the linkage has no bearing on my issue.  If it is pulling the fork all the way back and the fork cannot move any further since it is stopped by the bellhousing, it cannot be the leakage.  Also my fork is behind the ears so I think my issue is the clutch 
Back to Top
athawk11 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 17 Jan. 2012
Location: Arvada,Colorado
Status: Offline
Points: 3764
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb. 2017 at 10:54am
The input shaft…and clutch disc must completely stop spinning when the clutch pedal is pushed. If the bushing is tight, they won’t stop spinning.  If the pressure plate isn’t pulling far enough away from the clutch disc, it will continue to spin.

A warped clutch disc?  A clutch disc that’s too thick?  A clutch disc installed backwards? (not sure this is even possible)  Again, if that bushing is tight on the input shaft, it has all the above symptoms.  Are you absolutely certain it’s not grabbing the input shaft?

1- 1946 CJ2A   
2- 1949 CJ3A
Back to Top
TexasWillys12 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 01 Sep. 2016
Location: Granbury, Tx
Status: Offline
Points: 54
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TexasWillys12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb. 2017 at 11:48am
I thought about installing the transmisson without the clutch and see if the input shaft doesn't turn?
Back to Top
athawk11 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 17 Jan. 2012
Location: Arvada,Colorado
Status: Offline
Points: 3764
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb. 2017 at 12:20pm
Originally posted by TexasWillys12 TexasWillys12 wrote:

I thought about installing the transmisson without the clutch and see if the input shaft doesn't turn?

That's a lot of work, but not a bad thought.  You could also double check that the clutch disc is 'true'.  I think others have found new clutch discs that are warped.  Maybe Lee(MN)?

I had mine apart so many times, I lost track.  I tried all of it.  Linkage adjustments, replaced the pressure plate, fork, pivot fulcrum, throw out bearing...nothing worked until I reamed the bushing.  

It fit perfectly on the input shaft...until I seated it in the flywheel. This compressed the inside diameter. I didn't know it would do that.  I finally pulled the back off the engine, manually stuck the transmission into the bushing.  It didn't just 'slide' in. I had to wiggle/fight it in.  I reamed it a very small amount, put it all back together, and haven't had a problem since. 
1- 1946 CJ2A   
2- 1949 CJ3A
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  12>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.03
Copyright ©2001-2019 Web Wiz Ltd.