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Cold Starting |
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Alpine 
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Joined: 04 Oct. 2012 Location: Katy,TX Status: Offline Points: 530 |
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 Topic: Cold StartingPosted: 23 Sep. 2017 at 3:25am |
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If any of you have time could you post a video of you cold starting your jeep. Preferably 6 volt. I just need some type of gauge to determine how hard/easy mine is to start. Thanks.
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eestes1
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Posted: 23 Sep. 2017 at 8:31pm |
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I would be happy to, but I'm still waiting to get my generator back from the shop- "Maybe by the first of the week", he said!
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Rick Estes
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Joe DeYoung
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Posted: 23 Sep. 2017 at 11:17pm |
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I don't have any videos but it should start with only a few cranks cold or hot. Set up properly, cold requires some choke to draw in more fuel and hot should use no choke. Also, shouldn't matter if it's 6 or 12 volt or how fast it turns over. What are you experiencing for starting? |
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Joe DeYoung
to many jeeps, parts, and accessories to list here, but apparently enough to keep me in trouble with my wife. |
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Handler1
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Joined: 28 Dec. 2014 Location: Ancaster ON CAN Status: Offline Points: 77 |
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Posted: 24 Sep. 2017 at 3:03pm |
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I am just gaining experience with cold start on my recently completed restoration of my 1946 2A with a 6-volt battery. It was also hard to start in comparison to my 3B which is 12-volt. I was running down the battery and on a some occasions had to abandon my ride to re-charge the battery.
As it turns out, my problems were related to a number of issues including; gas tank gas cap not vented, old fuel filter, timing not optimum, most importantly, vacuum not at optimum 20.5 inches, etc. With that said, I am finding that 3/4 choke and "one" push of the pedal, remove my foot and turn it over is working well. I still get the occasional misfire, however, have 100% confidence in it starting, without repetitive cranking, on the second or third turn of the key.
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Alpine
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Joined: 04 Oct. 2012 Location: Katy,TX Status: Offline Points: 530 |
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Posted: 24 Sep. 2017 at 4:11pm |
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I can get it to start but it is difficult and I have no confidence it will start. Seems to restart better after it has set. My biggest issue is just no confidence it will start. It's not consistent and just seems to be luck when it starts. Connections are clean, cables are properly sized, timing is as good as I can get it.
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Handler1
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Posted: 24 Sep. 2017 at 4:26pm |
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I understand your frustration.
I had a horrible time getting the 2A to start compared the 3B. The 3B, with the 12-volt system never let me down. I even fried my first 6-volt battery in the process. I blamed the 6-volt system for lack of cranking power and almost gave up on it and was preparing to convert to 12-volt. I stuck with it, with the support of my friends on the Forum and it has paid off so far. I learned that the problem wasn't the 6-volt cranking power. It was lack of proper supply and proportion of fuel, air, and ignition timing. The fellas taught me that I was looking for a solution to the problem in the wrong place. I'm probably the wrong guy to be giving advice because I know just enough to be dangerous but they proved to me that the 6-volt system will work just fine if it is provided with the proper inputs. Anyhow, hope I don't sound like I'm preaching, but thought my recent related experience might be of some help. don
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Alpine
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Posted: 24 Sep. 2017 at 5:06pm |
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does that mean the carb might need adjustment? Also I just drove it for an hour and five minutes after turning it off I couldn't get it to restart. Is that likely a vapor lock issue? I was able to pull start it with ease.
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Adrian
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Posted: 24 Sep. 2017 at 7:01pm |
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Mines 6V. starting sequence:
Stone cold, key on, couple of kicks on the gas pedal, a little bit of hand throttle, plenty of choke and it needs to crank for probably 15 seconds to get fuel through. Then once it starts I reduce choke, keep the idle high for about a minute and can then push the choke right in. If warm, key on, and foot on the starter button and its away. I must check to see of the fuel is running back through the fuel pump. Ideally I would consider putting a WW2 pump on it with the hand prime lever. With my old GMC 6x6 I would pump the lever on it until I could hear the fuel in the carb, then it would fire up ok. Much more interesting than starting something with auto everything 
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1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
1973 Saab 96 |
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Handler1
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Posted: 24 Sep. 2017 at 7:17pm |
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My experience for start-up has been very similar to the previous post.
With regard to it starting, running okay while you were driving, but would not restart, there are a number of possibilities, but I would start with the possibility of overheating. Do you have a properly working Temp Gauge? What temp was it running at while you were driving? Was the running temp stable? Did the temp gauge reading shoot up when you shut it down? Will it restart after cooling down? If it is overheating, when was the last time you changed your thermostat? At what temp is it rated to open? Is your rad coolant full to the top? What is the temp rating of your coolant? How old is the rad? When was it last flushed? Would appreciate hearing how that goes before considering other possibilities. |
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Alpine
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Posted: 24 Sep. 2017 at 7:33pm |
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It runs between 180 and 200. When cold it will get up to 180 and you can see the temp drop when the thermostat opens up. Radiator is new (less than a year old). I drove it for an hour today on city streets and it never went above 200. It will start after sitting for a while which is typically greater than 20 minutes. Today it was 5 to 10 minutes later and would not start but I was able to pull start it. I believe the coolant level is fine and it is whatever Oreillys sells.
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Handler1
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Posted: 24 Sep. 2017 at 8:29pm |
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Plan B Is it getting fuel? Did you try removing the gas cap? Is it there any suction? Is the fuel bowl on the pump fuel of fuel? Have you cleaned it recently? Do you use and inline fuel filter, it may be plugging? You may want to try removing it and see if things change without it. Plan C Is the battery recharging while you are driving? Put a voltmeter across the terminals. You should have over 6 volts and the voltage should continue to rise for about an hour after shutting down from around 6 volts to about 6.4 volts. How old is the battery? Have you checked the fluid level in each cell? Is the acid covering the plates in each of the 4 cells?
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cpt logger
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Posted: 25 Sep. 2017 at 2:12am |
Bolding mine. 4 Cells? That makes it an 8 Volt battery. A 6 Volt battery will have 3 cells. I have an 8 Volt battery in my 1964 VW Baja. It has 4 cells. Other than this minor nit-pick, your questions are right on. Like you, I am awaiting on the answers to these questions. |
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Alpine
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Posted: 25 Sep. 2017 at 2:55am |
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B - Yes its getting fuel. The pump is one of the modern ones you can get at the autoparts store. The fuel system is all relatively new within the last year and half, new tank, lines, pump. Filter is the original style and has a newer ceramic filter in it.
C - The battery is new within the last year but I have not checked to see if it is charging or the fluid levels. This could be an issue and I will look into it. I would guess it is charging since it seems to have plenty of power but will have to put a meter on it.
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Handler1
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Posted: 25 Sep. 2017 at 4:13pm |
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Hi me again,
Had some more thoughts while I was walking the dog this morning. Again, speaking from (frustrating) experience and not as a mechanic, given that you can pull start it, I think we can set aside; mechanical, air, fuel, and secondary electrical for the time being. When it is running, does it run smooth at idle (650 rpm), or is there an intermittent misfire? Any black smoke discharge at the exhaust, or carbon build up at the tailpipe? I'm thinking something in the primary circuit; battery, wires, coil, distributor, plugs. The battery is most suspect. In addition to checking if the voltage isn't recovering to 6.4ish, you may have an issue. Is the battery swollen around the posts in any way? You should also do a load test on the battery. Load testers are cheap and a good investment. It may be recovering to around 6V, but can't sustain the cranking load. That was the case with my battery. It would recharge to around 6V leaving me thinking it was okay, but in reality, I had fried it from a combination of excessive repetitive cranking and repetitive draining. Try hooking up a battery charger to the battery and leave it running while you try to start and note whether there is any improvement. How old are you plugs? I found that I had to be very selective about my plug choice, matching the my plug choice to operating conditions. There's lots of online research to assist you. On the chance that is it not the battery, suggest you spark check each plug and check for condition. You can Google "Images of spark plugs" for comparison to the condition of yours. I really need to apologize if I'm going on a bit or am sounding preachy, but this is the kind of stuff that I had to go through on my two rebuilds and is in reality a reflection on what the folks on the Forum taught me. BTW, thanks for the catch on the battery cells.
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Alpine
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Joined: 04 Oct. 2012 Location: Katy,TX Status: Offline Points: 530 |
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Posted: 25 Sep. 2017 at 10:58pm |
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Without going into a lot of detail I would say plugs, wires and battery are all fine (and relatively new). The jeep runs at a very smooth idle, no smoke. Spark and compression are all good. It drives great. The distributor itself might be an issue but how would you determine that.
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stude-a-willys
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Joined: 02 Sep. 2014 Location: Conifer, CO, US Status: Offline Points: 133 |
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Posted: 25 Sep. 2017 at 11:16pm |
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+20F
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0WubPkIrs4
I think it as +18F here. Not much of a jacket, but I remember getting COLD. -13F Did not quite start. The 6 volt tractor battery is of unknown age. At least 4 years old, probably many more.
Edited by stude-a-willys - 25 Sep. 2017 at 11:28pm |
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Studebaker re-powered CJ2a
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Stev
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Posted: 26 Sep. 2017 at 1:09am |
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Alpine,
I did a cold start after 5 weeks of sitting of my 6 volt Cj2A (stored in a garage about 75 degree). I pulled out the choke all the way. Tuned on the coil, pressed the floor starter and - had to crank it for about 20 seconds and pump the gas twice after about 10 seconds. It finally came to life. I then pushed the choke in about half way. Stev
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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Handler1
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Posted: 26 Sep. 2017 at 2:36pm |
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Hello again Alpine;
The least technical place to start with your Distributor, I would suggest the following; Mark your distributor body at a spot closest to the block. Put a corresponding mark on your block as close as possible to the distributor mark, Start your engine and let it warm up to idle, Back out you idle adjustment screw on your carburetor until the engine sounds like it will stall if you back it off any further, Loosen the nut on the Distributor body and very carefully rotate the Distributor in very small increments while listening to the engine rotation, first in one direction, then the other, A Tach is invaluable here, but you should be able to pick up the increase/decrease in the rpm with your ear, When you find the fastest rpm, fasten the Distributor nut down and put a mark on the Block that corresponds to the original mark on the Distributor body, Is there any difference from the original location of the Distributor? don |
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Handler1 wrote: