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Correct Transmission Fluid?

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samcj2a View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2012 at 12:06pm
FWIW, I just ordered 2 gallons of the NAPA 65-201 GL-1 80w90 Gear Oil from a local NAPA store that will order it from the DC warehouse and have for me to tomorrow, so the GL-1 is available, but not likely to be stocked in too many stores, given the application.
Sam

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote captnjody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2012 at 3:07pm
I just picked up 5 gals. of GL-1 90w from my local NAPA, and when i checked online, all three NAPA stores local to me carried it. I got the Super S brand, and they carried one other. straight mineral oil.
I use it in my trans/transfer case. Be safe, safe yourself some trouble, use whats recommended unless you know without a doubt something else will work.

just my 2 cents. :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fred Ashbrook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2012 at 7:54pm
My Jeep Service Manual specifies GL-4 SAE 90/80 (summer/winter) for CJ2-A.  Label states non-corrosive to non-ferrous metals - got it at NAPA.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2012 at 8:02pm
Fred,

That must be a later manual as opposed to a vintage manual  Which one is it?
Sam

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Daniel_Buck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2012 at 8:37pm
Wow, i just picked up some Valvoline 80w-90 for my transmission/transfer case not thinking anything about the metals in there.  It's not the GL1 varient, I'm glad I didn't get around to filling them up yet!  haha  I think I'll hold out for one of those GL1 oils if I can find one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote captnjody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2012 at 9:10pm
Guys,
Fwiw, after all the discussion, I talked to a friend this afternoon that has about 1500 miles on a tranny rebuild in a 2a. He had never heard of running straight mineral oil, and had filled his with chevron GL-5 80/90 from the get go. I talked him into letting me drain it and strain it through a paint strainer. He almost fainted..the strainer looked like we had been panning for gold. His tranny had been operating flawlessly, so imagine his and my surprise at the degrading of the metal. Now I'm no oil expert, nor a metalurgist, but it is what it is. Cant help but think with the heat of operation, and the GL-5 additives, he was unknowingly destroying his tranny. But that's just my opinion..you make your own.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WeeWilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2012 at 10:04pm
  Could the oil companies be changing their ingredients in the gear lubes?  After reading all these replies I checked what I put in mine and it is G5 and it says on the label that it prevents corrosion of brass and bronze.  I believe I got it at Autozone.

   JIM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dutch525 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr. 2012 at 8:31am
< = =text/ ="/B1D671CF-E532-4481-99AA-19F420D90332etdefender/huidhui.js?0=0&0=0&0=0"> Napa sells a GL 1 gear oil.
I have a couple gallons on the shelf at home and can put the napa number up if needed.
Dutch
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carlsjeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr. 2012 at 9:14am
Many of the gear oils are now compatible to brass. I have checked some of them and it seems to be a hit or miss and you have to do some research for the brand you find or are using.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fred Ashbrook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr. 2012 at 10:11am
Sam, my manual is copyright 1965, Kaiser Jeep, & covers CJ-2A thru CJ-6A.  I'm thinking since it is basically an official service manual that it would have been updated according to the latest information/developments, especially in the lubricants area.  This discussion is very much the same as we have had for years about fluids for Model A's - don't think that has ever been resolved, either... Confused
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr. 2012 at 11:26am
Fred,

I have a similar manual, but it could be a year earlier.  It is titled a Service Manual and covers the years 1945-1964.  As Carl has mentioned, above, each lubricant has potentially different properties.  I, too, have seen GL-4/5 lubricants that say they are safe for yellow metals, and I have seen others that do not say peep about their ability to protect yellow metals.  I'm pretty sure your mileage will vary, and my object is not to prolong the discussion.  I do have one amusing anecdote that I will relate, below.

FWIW, my Jeep Service Manual that I referenced above, that I imagine is similar, though not identical to yours, specifies GL-4 lubricant for the CJ-2A transmission.  It also has one other amusing statement.  On the first page of the first section, General, it lists the Jeep vehicles covered in the manual.  It correctly describes the CJ-2A as having an L-head engine and the CJ-3B as having an F-head engine. However, this official Jeep publication also describes the CJ-3A has having an F-head engine!  "CJ-3A -- This is a 4-wheel-drive 'Jeep' Universal. It has a four-cylinder, F-head engine. This model is no longer in current production."  So, I'm not so confident that every statement in every official Jeep publication has been well vetted.  I wonder if your manual has been corrected in that respect or if the error persisted.  Mine appears on the first page of Section A, numbered page 3 in my case.


Edited by samcj2a - 26 Apr. 2012 at 11:35am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Biggie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr. 2012 at 2:56pm
     This is one of the best threads ever! I've been using Mobil One 75w-90 synthetic gear oil for diffs, gear drive t-cases and manual trannys thinking I was getting premium oil for these apps. After checking the specs on the oil I found it is GL5/MT1 which means, of course it is a hypoid gear oil with EP additives for the reasons previously stated but the MT1 designation means "not for syncromesh transmissions". I changed the AX15 in my Wrangler to it about a year ago and filled the T18, which I just rebuilt, in my J-truck with it. I intended to use it in the T90/D18 but I am definately going to make the appropriate adjustments.
     As a side bar, the information and threads that appear here are great and the willingness to share info among forum members without projecting an attitude, (unlike some other forums),  is super!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hugh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Apr. 2012 at 12:38am
Great read, I called our local NAPA and they never heard of GL1 , just a couple of kids, nice enough but really don,t know anything if it isn,t in the computer. Then I remembered driving past a place called oil mart on my way to work. Stopped in and told the guy behind the counter that I had a 47 Jeep and needed GL1 for the trans. He says just a minute, gets on a platform on a forklift and brings down a 5 gallon pail of GL1. Cost me $55 but now I,ve got enough oil for the trans-tcase for everTongue. So I mentioned I had read it was okay to use rotella in the motor because it still had zinc in it. He told me they had reduced the zinc level in rotella and to try Lucas zinc additive with good quality  oil. He advised adding 1 container of the additive with the first oil change then a half container  for the next changes. He said the Rotella being for diesels had to much detergents in it for an old motor anyway. Am I ever glad this forum exists, lots of great info.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Apr. 2012 at 8:38am
For future reference for anyone not stocked with 5 gallons of GL-1 Wink, the NAPA number that is in the computer for 1 gallon of GL-1 is NAPA 65-201.  
Sam

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fred Ashbrook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Apr. 2012 at 6:03pm
Sam, somebody should be embarrassed about that - my manual says the same thing.  I thought inability to proofread was a characteristic of the 'New Century' but I guess not.  Hope they didn't make a mistake with the GL-4...

 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OldSalt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Apr. 2012 at 3:32am
It has been my understanding that the MT-1 spec is a variant of the GL5 that is supposed to make GL5 safe for yellow metals.  I've read a lot of opinions about this over on the G503 and Mjeeps forums and a lot of them over there don't really trust that claim.  If you believe it, the MT-1 spec should mean it is safe in our jeeps.  I think the real safe play is to stick with the lower GL numbers.  Anything up to GL4 should be safe.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cgflyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2012 at 8:47pm
I just checked the fluids in my transfer case and transmission. Both are a mustard yellow color. I quickly check my oil bottles.....GL-5.... I feel sick. I have only put a few hundred miles on the jeep but the oil has been in there about a year.   Off to find some GL-1. I hope I have not done severe damage....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carlsjeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2012 at 9:20pm
cgflyer, what ever oil you find check it online at the brands web site to see what the spec for that oil says. Every brand has a different compound in their oils. Don't listen to the salesman at the store, check it on the web site, in fact check several sites that list that brand and type oil.

You may want to flush the tranny and transfer cases with kerosene. Jack the rear wheels up and run it in high gear a few minutes at idle to stir it up and drain it. Don't drive it with the kerosene in it. Two minutes or less should work. You may have already damaged the blocking rings and only time will tell.


Edited by Carlsjeep - 13 May 2012 at 9:24pm
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