Forum Home Forum Home > CJ-2A Discussion Area > Tech Questions and Answers
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - D18 transfer case project
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

D18 transfer case project

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1234 8>
Author
Message
ndnchf View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 2

Joined: 22 Sep. 2017
Location: Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 1397
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec. 2018 at 4:15pm
Brazing it is an option, but I'll try to find a good one first. There is no hurry. This and the T90 I just finished are going on the shelf as ready spares when needed. A guy who lives an hour away has a spare TC. He's going to check out the bearing cap and let me know.

The day wasn't a loss. I spent the last 3 hours completely tearing down the second D18. I'll be able to use a number of parts from this one. Unfortunately the rear bearing cap is broken at the parking brake lever pivot point. Ouch

I have to give kudos to Joe's bearing tool. I've used it twice now and it worked great. Well worth the money in my book.
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
Back to Top
nofender View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 10 May 2016
Location: Western MA
Status: Offline
Points: 978
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec. 2018 at 6:41pm
I'll take a look. I may have one. I'll PM you if I come up with one. 
46 CJ2A rockcrawler
46 CJ2A resto-mod
51 Bantam-ish trailer
50-ish Sterling trailer
15 Grand (Mrs Nofender)
19 Hemi Ram (parts hauler)
Back to Top
ndnchf View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 2

Joined: 22 Sep. 2017
Location: Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 1397
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec. 2018 at 6:58pm
Originally posted by nofender nofender wrote:

I'll take a look. I may have one. I'll PM you if I come up with one. 

Thanks nofender, I appreciate it. I've been doing some looking online. I didn't realize there are at least 3 or 4 different rear bearing caps. So just to be clear which one I need, here is a photo of mine.


1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
Back to Top
oldtime View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep. 2009
Location: Missouri
Status: Offline
Points: 1385
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec. 2018 at 8:16pm
Matt Fox of QTM is selling a complete gasket and seal kit with the double lip seals.
You could easily weld that bearing cap with some  55% nickle rod.
You don't even need to be a good welder just a good grinder !  Ha Ha  !


Edited by oldtime - 27 Dec. 2018 at 8:18pm
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

Back to Top
Unkamonkey View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 23 Mar. 2016
Location: Greeley CO
Status: Offline
Points: 2052
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec. 2018 at 8:40pm
I don't know how true this is but a motorcycle mechanic said that he repaired several bike or water craft parts my mixing a slurry of AL or what ever metal you are dealing with and slow setting super glue. Set up a mold to contain what you pour in and shoot it with an accelerator that causes it to set up almost immediately. He claimed that you could drill, machine or whatever after it set up. I never have tried it and I know that the guy is a bit of a BS artist. YMMV.
uncamonkey
Back to Top
nofender View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 10 May 2016
Location: Western MA
Status: Offline
Points: 978
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec. 2018 at 6:17am
I knew i had one on the shelf! Unfortunately, it too is broken where the e-brake stud used to be. Sorry....no luck here. 
46 CJ2A rockcrawler
46 CJ2A resto-mod
51 Bantam-ish trailer
50-ish Sterling trailer
15 Grand (Mrs Nofender)
19 Hemi Ram (parts hauler)
Back to Top
ndnchf View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 2

Joined: 22 Sep. 2017
Location: Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 1397
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec. 2018 at 7:20am
Originally posted by nofender nofender wrote:

I knew i had one on the shelf! Unfortunately, it too is broken where the e-brake stud used to be. Sorry....no luck here. 

Ok, thanks for checking.
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
Back to Top
ndnchf View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 2

Joined: 22 Sep. 2017
Location: Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 1397
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec. 2018 at 4:18pm
I decided to braze my cracked rear output cap. I had nothing to lose by trying. I ground a V into the cracks, then brazed them. I think it came out pretty good. 



Upon close inspection I found a couple small cracks around the parking brake pivot stud, so we V'd and then brazed them too.



Then I set the cap in the mill and milled the excess braze off within about .005" of the surface.



Then the last step was to sand and lap it completely flat.



It's not perfect, but it's repaired as well as I can do with my limited skills. What do you guys think, will it hold?


1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
Back to Top
Gil View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 29 July 2016
Location: N.B.Canada.
Status: Offline
Points: 760
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec. 2018 at 4:53pm
Looking good from here Steve.Thumbs Up
1946 cj2a 59108
1998 Jeep Cherokee 2 doors
2016 Jeep Cherokee TrailHawk
Back to Top
cottonwood View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 31 July 2018
Location: kansas
Status: Offline
Points: 8
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cottonwood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec. 2018 at 7:03pm
It looks like that will last another 100 thousand
Back to Top
Lee (MN) View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 12 Aug. 2008
Location: Harris, MN
Status: Offline
Points: 3420
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lee (MN) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec. 2018 at 7:06pm
Nice work 👍👍🏽👍

Lee
               LEE
44 GPW-The Perfected Willys
49 2A
67 M715
American Made Rolling History
Back to Top
Bruce W View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 29 July 2005
Location: Northeast Colorado
Status: Online
Points: 5649
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec. 2018 at 9:52pm
  It looks just like mine, and like I said, mine has been running that way for 20+ years. Put it on and run it.  BW
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
Back to Top
ndnchf View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 2

Joined: 22 Sep. 2017
Location: Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 1397
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2018 at 6:35am
Thanks guys. I'd still prefer an undamaged part. But for the time being I'll plan to use it.

Different subject - the pilot bushing inside the mainshaft. According to Novak, these should have an I.D. of .628" when new. Anything over .630" should be replaced. My two shaft's bushings measure .632" and .634". Both shafts are good otherwise. I expect that a new bushing would be undersized and need to be reamed to .628" after installation, a reamer I don't have and really don't want to purchase. Novak's web site says they can install and ream the bushing for a minimal charge. Has anyone used their service? The alternative is to use a local machine shop, but that may be more expensive. How have you guys dealt with this issue?

1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
Back to Top
oldtime View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep. 2009
Location: Missouri
Status: Offline
Points: 1385
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2018 at 2:49pm
You mean the bushing for the front output clutch shaft ?
I have a new one available if you need one.
It should not require any additional reaming.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

Back to Top
ndnchf View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 2

Joined: 22 Sep. 2017
Location: Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 1397
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2018 at 3:11pm
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

You mean the bushing for the front output clutch shaft ?
I have a new one available if you need one.
It should not require any additional reaming.

Yes, that's it. What is the ID of the bushing you have? I assume it has an interference fit of something like .001" - .0015", so the current ID will reduce a little after its pressed in. My output clutch shaft measures .624". Thanks
Steve
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
Back to Top
oldtime View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep. 2009
Location: Missouri
Status: Offline
Points: 1385
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2018 at 3:18pm
It's an OEM  NOS bushing.
I'll need to measure the I.D. and the O.D. when I get back home.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

Back to Top
ndnchf View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 2

Joined: 22 Sep. 2017
Location: Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 1397
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2018 at 3:34pm
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

It's an OEM  NOS bushing.
I'll need to measure the I.D. and the O.D. when I get back home.

Ok - thanks.
BTW - do you have any tips for removing the old bushing? I thought I'd try the fill it with grease and a close fitting dowel technique....
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
Back to Top
ndnchf View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 2

Joined: 22 Sep. 2017
Location: Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 1397
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2018 at 6:05pm
It fought me, but I got the old bushing outSmile
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1234 8>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.01
Copyright ©2001-2018 Web Wiz Ltd.