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D18 transfer case project

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WeeWilly View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WeeWilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2018 at 10:04am
How did you get it out?

   Jim
47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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ndnchf View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2018 at 10:28am
Originally posted by WeeWilly WeeWilly wrote:

How did you get it out?

   Jim

It was in tight! 
Well first I was going to try the hydraulic grease/punch method. But the oil hole in the side made that a non-starter. Then I tried a slide hammer blind bushing puller, but it wouldn't budge. So finally I used a hacksaw blade and made cuts through the bushing at 3 and 6 O'clock. Then with a very small screwdriver ground like a chisel I tapped it in, then was able to break out the small cut section. Then collapsed the remainder and pulled it out.
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2018 at 10:36am
One of the four bolts that go through the drum and yoke spun at some point in the past, making a small divot in the ridge inside the drum that is suppose to keep the bolt from spinning. So what's the best way to fix this? What I'm thinking it to use the MIG to add a spot of weld to the bolt head on the two flats adjacent to the flat that faces the ridge. This would essentially lengthen the flat against the ridge and prevent it from turning. What do you guys think?




1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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TERRY View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TERRY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2018 at 11:04am
Why not MIG the drum?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2018 at 11:25am
Originally posted by TERRY TERRY wrote:

Why not MIG the drum?

Its cast iron, a much great chance of cracking. It could be done with the right welding rod and pre-heating the drum, then machining then ridge. But beefing up the bolt head seems safer and easier.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WeeWilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2018 at 12:53pm
  Thanks ndnchf,  I was just curious. I am always looking for different ways to get a jobs done without buying special tools.  I read about the hydraulic way before and had to try it on  pilot bushings and found it works great but messy.  On bushings in blind holes I try first to see if it is a size that I can use a tap to thread it and use a bolt to pull it out. In your case with the transverse hole  you probably did it the easiest way.  Thanks for sharing,

   Jim
47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2018 at 1:04pm
I thought about that too, but didn't have a 5/8" tap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2018 at 2:20pm
I had some extra companion flange bolts, so I took one and welded the sides of the head to make it wider so it won't turn. It took a little fitting, and it's not pretty, but it won't turn nowBig smile


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2018 at 3:06pm
The shift rods had some corrosion at the outer ends. I put them in the lathe and cleaned them up as well as possible. Would you use them or buy new ones. I'll buy new ones if necessary, but trying not to spend more than needed. I have no illusions about this TC being 100% leak free. But I'd like to keep it to a minimum. 

So what do you say about these rods: Yay or Nay?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WeeWilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2018 at 3:55pm
  Nice repair on the bolt.  Can those pits be polished out?  I would prevent as many leaks as possible even if I had to replace them. Since you got a lathe you could make a sleeve for them. I have made speedi-sleeves for other applications with success and sleeves for those would be a lot easier since you could turn it down and polished them after they were pressed on the shafts. I appreciate your work.

   Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2018 at 3:57pm
Shift rod oil leakage is pretty minimal so I think those rods are acceptable.
Double lip seals may help some.
You can get a complete double seal and gasket set from Matt Fox at QTM.

The new output clutch shaft bushing (A-987) that I have measures about about .628 I.D. and about .755 O.D.

Yeah removing the old bushing is nearly always a chore.

I agree that parking drum was better left alone "as is".

Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2018 at 4:01pm
  They're not going to leak constantly, only when the shafts are moved. They don't move all the time, only once in a while, when you shift them. If I had better ones, I'd use the better ones. If not, I think I'd put 'em in.    BW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2018 at 5:16pm
I think I'll use the shafts. I have the double lip seal # for the output yokes, do they make a double lip seal for the shift rods?

Oldtime - your bushing is too large at the OD to work for me. After removing the old bushing, I measured the bore at .7485" - .749".  I think a .006" interference fit would be too much and distort the bushing. The .628" ID is perfect, but that would surely close up after the bushing is pressed in. It would then require a .628" reamer (that I din't have) to get back to the needed ID. But thanks for checking, I appreciate it. I may have to send it to Novak and have them install and ream a bushing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2018 at 5:29pm
Yeah, that's what I'm saying Matt provides the double lip shift seals in his kit but I don't think they have a part # on them. 
I'll check to see If I have any with numbers on them ......

FYI the bushing I have is a split bushing with steel backing.

Diameter of your used output clutch shaft probably lost about .002 of an inch from standard .......


Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
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Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2018 at 5:46pm
I was just looking at the QTM ebay store and saw his gasket and seal kit, plus other things I need. I've not dealt with him before, but I'll probably order a set. Thanks for the tip

 My output clutch shaft is in excellent shape and measures .624".  A 628" bushing ID would give .002" clearance. I think that would be about right.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kinnett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2018 at 11:30pm
I had a local machine shop (Yorktown,  Va) press in my new bushing and then ream it to. 628.  They charged me $20. I took the old one out using a hacksaw blade. I cut a 1/4 section of it out and then the rest of the bushing just slid right out.  It took some patience and persistence but it worked.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jan. 2019 at 7:49pm
Does anyone know, or point me to the TC roller bearing and cup numbers? I'd like to order them from Rock Auto. I found the Timken numbers on the NAPA parts list, but they don't show up on a search of the Rock Auto site. Thanks.

Update: belay my last - I found the numbers and placed my order.


Edited by ndnchf - 01 Jan. 2019 at 9:45pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan. 2019 at 10:44am
GROUP 18-04

A-1007----------------D18 front output-----------------------------------------Fafnir 206 K
51575-----------------D18 main output cone (qty 2)-------------------------14131
52883-----------------D18/D20 main output cup (qty 2)---------------------14276

FAFNIR.......MRC.........SKF............TIMKEN..........FM...........BCA
206K..........xxx...........6206............206WB...........206..........206X3


Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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