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Daddy's Jeep |
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TeddieG ![]() Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 Aug. 2019 Location: Sequim, WA Status: Offline Points: 49 |
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![]() ![]() So far, my husband and I have put a good battery in it, and it cranked! Good sign! It rolls and steers, but it has no brakes. I drained the oil and put a new filter in it and added a bit of water to the radiator. We did a compression test, and the first three cylinders had good compression, but the fourth was 50% lower. We removed the spark plugs (one was broken off at the top) and put new plugs in. The gas tank was home made and rusty inside, so we hooked a new gas line to the fuel pump and ran it to a gatorade bottle with some gasoline. He poured bits of gas into the carburetor, and it wanted to start--it just needed a prime. After about 10 cranks, it fired up and purred like a kitten. We shut it down after a minute or so. It maintained an oil pressure of 32. At least one gauge works. Headlights work, too. I was told that this was a '53, but it's not. Willy serial #tags have been removed. I did finally discover the ACM number on the toe board gusset two days ago: 114270, so that pretty much tells me that this is a 1947 according to the helpful ID pages on the CJ2A forum. Here are a couple of pictures. ![]() |
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Teddie
CJ2A '47 |
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ndnchf ![]() Member ![]() ![]() Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 1682 |
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Welcome aboard and congratulations on getting the old jeep going again. A lot of great people and knowledge here. Dig in!
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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Spinnas ![]() Member ![]() Joined: 24 Apr. 2018 Location: AZ Status: Offline Points: 274 |
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Welcome, looks and sounds like a good rig to start with.
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TeddieG ![]() Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 Aug. 2019 Location: Sequim, WA Status: Offline Points: 49 |
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I certainly hope this does not turn out to be Teddie's folly. When it actually cranked, I was thrilled beyond belief. When it ran for that minute or two, I was more thrilled. I am messing around with it and stalling, as I think the next thing on the agenda might be the brakes. I have watched videos of pulling off old rusty brake drums, and they are discouraging. Hubby is not excited either, as I know that he has been there and done that in the past. He worked as a mechanic for about three years when we first married. The pay was low, and the shop was dangerous. He was almost killed or maimed there on a couple of occasions. We will get back to that soon enough. In the meantime, I have pulled apart the driver's seat to peruse the damage. I posted that on the "What I did on my Jeep today August" post. It can be fixed. The horrors of rotted out hat channels awaits me, too.
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Teddie
CJ2A '47 |
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mbullism ![]() Member ![]() ![]() Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 3214 |
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First and foremost, Welcome aboard Teddie... Dads jeep sure looks like a solid starting point. I must say I cannot recall another project intro that was quite so... hesitant
![]() Be forewarned: that little jeep is going to sneak up on you. They are so simple and generally forgiving, ask for very little, and will put a smile on almost everyone near it. Looking forward to watching another one saved!
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1946 CJ2A #69750 - "Plowshare"
Bantam T3-C #15849 2016 JK unlimited (Hers) 1969 Kaiser CJ5 (sold) Analog spoken here.... |
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ggordon49 ![]() Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 June 2017 Location: Connecticut Status: Offline Points: 893 |
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Great story!
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Ship of Theseus - As years go by wooden parts begin to rot and are replaced by new. After a century, all of the parts have been replaced. Is the "restored" ship still the same object as the original?
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berettajeep ![]() Member ![]() ![]() Sponsor Member Joined: 03 Feb. 2009 Location: Astoria OR Status: Offline Points: 3859 |
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Welcome from North West Oregon! I think there is a member of this forum that is close by to you, maybe he will see this. ( Of course I can't recall his screen name at the moment
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TeddieG ![]() Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 Aug. 2019 Location: Sequim, WA Status: Offline Points: 49 |
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Thanks, berettajeep, it would be helpful to have another brain to pick. There is a classic car club in the area, but I don't know if any members drive or show old jeeps. Their vehicles all seem to be concourse level restorations.
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Teddie
CJ2A '47 |
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Ol' Unreliable ![]() Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 3541 |
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Welcome to the page, TeddieG!
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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TeddieG ![]() Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 Aug. 2019 Location: Sequim, WA Status: Offline Points: 49 |
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I try to get down to do something with the jeep almost every day. We power washed it, too, which helped a bit. Before that I had gathered up as much debris as possible from the inside and the tool box. Some sort of rodent had been up in there making a nest at some point. Since then, we have removed the hood and the windshield. Yesterday, I spent about an hour just loosening nuts, so the fenders can come off. Some areas have larger nuts than others. It will be confusing while bagging and tagging for future ID. If they don't look easily cleanable, I will purchase new ones. I have also been putting some paint remover over that area on the tailgate that is supposed to have an ACM number. So, it looks like the plan is to get the tub off and get a good look at the gritty side of the tub and everything that lives on the frame.
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Teddie
CJ2A '47 |
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TeddieG ![]() Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 Aug. 2019 Location: Sequim, WA Status: Offline Points: 49 |
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Some samples of previous paint and removal of windshield
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Teddie
CJ2A '47 |
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Ol' Unreliable ![]() Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 3541 |
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A recommendation: if you're going to replace hardware, use stainless nuts and bolts where you can. A dab of anti-seize on threads to keep from galling (or seizing from rust if you don't use stainless) will be a help too.
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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TeddieG ![]() Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 Aug. 2019 Location: Sequim, WA Status: Offline Points: 49 |
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Thanks for that advice. I am saving all the nuts, bolts, and screws in baggies, so I will at least have an idea what I need to purchase. I'm sure that steel is steel, but is there any potential of electrolysis between the two metals? I have seen what stainless screws did to aluminum window frames in salty air. It was fast and ugly. The jeep is going commando very quickly, as I got the right fender and grill off, today. I hope to post pictures tomorrow. Onward to releasing the tub from the frame! I do have to admit that hubby is providing some muscle for me. There seem to be a couple of bolts that are immovable for me, and he comes along to help out. I have my own set of wrenches and sockets in a set from costco, but he has tons more, and he is happy to let me use them. I am a guest in his garage.
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Teddie
CJ2A '47 |
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Ol' Unreliable ![]() Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 3541 |
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There won't be a galvanic corrosion problem (definition: "two dissimilar metals in electrical contact in an electrolyte solution") with stainless hardware but if you use a bolt and a nut made of the same alloy, you may have a galling problem such that you can't get the fasteners tightened or disassembled. I've had both issues. One bolt/nut would only go on halfway before they galled and I had to shear the bolt to get the combo apart (that took some doing, as the bolt was 1/2"...). Anti-seize would have kept that from happening. You've seen non-stainless hardware rust together on your Jeep. At least you won't have that problem if you use stainless hardware. The only thing to watch for with the stainless is that you won't want to use hardware-store stainless if there is a requirement for grade 5 or grade 8.
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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TeddieG ![]() Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 Aug. 2019 Location: Sequim, WA Status: Offline Points: 49 |
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So, I plan to replace all removable nuts and bolts with stainless. Further research or info is required to determine what grade of stainless, and I assume that I would need to order this online. The common size that I am finding is 1/2" and 9/16" with some 7/16" here and there. Flukes, I reckon and maybe just in the stuff attached to the fenders. I have been lax in recording exactly where I removed stuff other than left fender, grill, hood, windshield, etc. I have also encountered what is called "lock nut" or a term like that. The nut remains in place when the bolt is removed. 98% of those are still in place, but at least one was a nut and bolt hanging in the breeze. The nut was from a blind area without wrench access, and should have been a "lock nut" . It's a challenge, but I am sure that with some help that we will figure it out. I have a ton of questions about the things that I have encountered on this very short trip.
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Teddie
CJ2A '47 |
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Rus Curtis ![]() Member ![]() Joined: 25 Mar. 2010 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 947 |
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Teddie,
You would really benefit from having a couple of books in your library. A Service Manual (SM) and a Parts Manual (PM). I didn't know about these at first (pre-internet). The SM was easy to find from vendors but it took a while to find out where I could get a PM. Y'all have an excellent source here on the Forum. The Parts List Database: It will list your hardware and cut down on the guessing. Had I owned a PM way back when, I could have avoided a costly fix using the wrong fasteners. At least for my model, I've found some lengths don't exist in certain sizes, i.e. 7/8" length vs. available 1" bolts. At least you'll know where to cut and which you can leave alone. The in-place nuts you describe (at the fenders, radiator guard, etc?) may be the "captured nuts" used to help with assembly/disassembly - and can be purchased from some vendors but would need to be welded in place where the originals are. I personally haven't used stainless but I do see the benefits. These jeeps were originally produced with either plated or painted hardware and I've been comfortable with how they've lasted. Anti-seize is very helpful in some applications. The only thing I don't like is how different the hardware looks nowadays vs. the originals.
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Rus Curtis
Alabama 1954 CJ3B Bantam T3-C |
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Mark W. ![]() Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 4977 |
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A nut held in a cage or welded to a piece of the Jeep is called a Captive Nut A nut that has either a nylon insert in one end or a disrupted shape on one end is a Lock Nut For anything that does not have a Torque specification in this list (note the spec's for the King pin (& Steering arm) to knuckle should read 30-35ft lbs for a CJ-2A DO NOT USE THE SPECS LISTED ON THE CHART FROM THE LATER MODELS) Can be replaced with Hardware Store grade Stainless.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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64CJ5 ![]() Member ![]() ![]() Sponsor Member Joined: 15 Nov. 2013 Location: NE Wyoming Status: Offline Points: 605 |
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Welcome! Lots of info here. Keep us informed on your progress and post pictures. Ask and you will receive answers. As to nuts and bolts I have had good luck with Fastenal.com..
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64CJ5 "Eeyore"
01TJ "Tigger" 52 M38 Severely demilitarized, Now running with Pinto power. "Popeye" The Coast Guard Jeep. To Trust Government Defys Both History and Reason. |
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