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Dana 18 Shift Rail Seals

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cyates176FA View Drop Down
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    Posted: 12 Mar. 2023 at 9:46pm
Evening all. I’m at the end of my D18 rebuild. I’m following the Novak instructions (which aren’t very in-depth), as well as the Rick Stivers videos. The last step is putting the seals on the shift rails. 

Is there a trick to getting them to fit? I can get them past the cutout for the shifters without any issue; but I can’t get them to seat squarely. I’ve chewed up 2 seals already. Each time they get started square to the hole; but after a few taps, one side pops out and dents or crushes. 

I don’t have a specific tool. I’m using a large washer with an ID that matches the shift rail to sit on top of the seal. I have a piece of 3/4” conduit that’s longer than the rail to hit with a mallet. I’m right here at the end of the build, and these seals are a real PITA.

TIA for any suggestions. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar. 2023 at 10:08pm
I usually replace the seals while the unit is disassembled without the shift rails being in the way. 

I use a deep well socket matching the size of the seals, with a short extension so that I can hold it straight with my hand and still have room to tap on it with a hammer (lightly). 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cyates176FA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar. 2023 at 10:00am
Originally posted by Oldpappy Oldpappy wrote:

I usually replace the seals while the unit is disassembled without the shift rails being in the way. 

I use a deep well socket matching the size of the seals, with a short extension so that I can hold it straight with my hand and still have room to tap on it with a hammer (lightly). 

Is it too late for me to take the front cap off, now that I've reassembled it? I don't mind doing that, if it's going to work better - and as long as I'm not undoing the rest of the work. I've got spare gaskets, so that shouldn't be an issue. 

Also, is there a part number for the seals that I can get at the local parts store - instead of ordering online? The seals that came with Novak's kit are Crown CA2469. I've looked at cross-references, but nothing seems to be in stock. Didn't know if there was a current part number that would work at Auto Zone, O'Reilly, NAPA, or Advance.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar. 2023 at 11:25am

I am not saying you have to disassemble, I am sure others have installed them with the rails in place, but I have only replaced those seals when I had the unit on the bench. I would give it some time to see if anyone can tell you a better way to do it.

I have an extra set of seals I can send you. PM me your address and I'll put them in the mail.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar. 2023 at 11:44am
Removing the front cap to install the shift rod seals is a bit of an over kill. It isn't as easy as it sounds.

Somewhere in my notes over the years that I have a conversion for the seals but I can't find my notebook at the moment. I am looking.

The C/R number is like 62xx but I can't remember the last two numbers.

Edited by SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A - 16 Mar. 2023 at 9:51am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cyates176FA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar. 2023 at 2:58pm
Appreciate the replies! 

I went ahead and bought 2 sets of the seals from Quarter Ton (closest to me, and good pricing) just after posting the original thread. Figured I'd get them on the road since my goal was to have it done this week. Oldpappy, if those fall through, I may take you up on the offer!

I'll keep an eye out for a part number for a seal that my local parts stores might stock. No one could reference the CR2469 part number stamped on the seal itself. I checked cross references online for the part number and couldn't find anything. 

I'm off from work on Friday, so I hope to be able to get them put in and get the transmission and transfer case back into the Jeep this weekend. My wife would appreciate to not have to look at gears and paper cups full of bolts for a change. I will look through the basement to see if I can find something that is closer to the OD of the seal. I believe I have some scrap PEX that might do the trick. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob3b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar. 2023 at 3:53pm
I usually press them in as a last step before the shifters go on. Of course new seals are thin and bend easily
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cyates176FA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar. 2023 at 3:58pm
Originally posted by Bob3b Bob3b wrote:

I usually press them in as a last step before the shifters go on. Of course new seals are thin and bend easily

Yeah. The video that I watched had them go in last. I didn't think to put them in early on; but I now think that would've been better. 

I'm sure I'll get them, it's just frustrating to be at the end of the T90/ D18 rebuilds (assuming all went well) and have 2 quarter-size seals jamming me up. I'll use my Dremel to make sure that the bores are nice and clean, then grease everything up real good and see how it goes. I'll look for a better tool to drive them in and go for it. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar. 2023 at 7:00pm
Okay, I finally found my information.

Shift rod seal= 6229 SKF, 6229 NAPA, 6229 C/R

Any competent counterman at a reputable parts store should be able to convert that number to their brand of seal. (counterperson in today's parlance)

The key is competent. Today's computer driven counter help sometimes can't find their *** let alone the part you want. In an old printed Victor or C/R catalog there was an interchange section from competitors numbers to Victor or C/R. Nowadays if you tell the counter help you need a part for anything over about 20 years ago they kind of get a panicked look on their face. Parts for a small block Chevy being an exception.

Hope this information on the shift rod seal helps someone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cyates176FA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar. 2023 at 7:06pm
Originally posted by SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A wrote:

Okay, I finally found my information.

Shift rod seal= 6229 SKF, 6229 NAPA, 6229 C/R

Any competent counterman at a reputable parts store should be able to convert that number to their brand of seal. (counterperson in today's parlance)

The key is competent. Today's computer driven counter help sometimes can't find their *** let alone the part you want. In an old printed Victor or C/R catalog there was an interchange section from competitors numbers to Victor or C/R. Nowadays if you tell the counter help you need a part for anything over about 20 years ago they kind of get a panicked look on their face. Parts for a small block Chevy being an exception.

Hope this information on the shift rod seal helps someone.

Appreciate it! I called around earlier; but no joy. One of the shops has a couple old heads that work from time to time. I’ll try to catch them behind the counter one day. 

Reminds me of the old Car Talk episode where they ask the age of the caller’s mechanic and say “not old enough.” 

I did go ahead and order a couple from QTM, just to at least have them by this weekend when I planned to finish it up. It’d be nice to at least get them to show exactly what they’ve got so I’ve got a part number for future reference. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cyates176FA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar. 2023 at 8:43pm
Tried again today to get the shift rail seals in. Just can’t seem to get them to seat. I used a piece of PVC that was very close to the same size as the seal (also used a deep well socket with an extension). I started with small taps to get it lined-up and then gradually used more force with the mallet. As soon as I did that, it would shift and pop out. Am I better off just pulling the front cap off and installing them without the rails? I would prefer to not do that, obviously, but I also don’t want to spin my wheels and chew through the seals I bought. They weren’t snagged on the cutouts, and looked to be seating. 

Just a drag to be at this point in the rebuilds and hung up on the last two seals. It’s sitting on the bench, so I’m able to stabilize the trans/TC and hit it square. Just can’t get it to start. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wheelie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar. 2023 at 10:10pm
  Not sure what brand of seal QTM sells. I'd be suspect of anything that is not a name brand and therefore possibly Omix-Ada. I've had bad luck with their seals not fitting worth a hoot.

  As far as installing, I'd suggest something more robust than PVC pipe. I think I'd get a piece of 3/8 or 1/2 black pipe from the hardware store instead. Maybe weld the proper washer on the end. Wipe a schtickle of RTV around the upper edge of the bore, tap it a few times ( using the driver , not tapping on the seal directly) to get it started and then whack it good and accurate to set it on its way. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar. 2023 at 10:40pm
Everything I have bought from QTM has been top quality. I used their seals in the last TC I worked on and they fit fine. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cyates176FA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2023 at 7:01am
The seals in the Novak kit look to be from Crown (same color and markings as the Crown set I had leftover from KW). The QTM seals are arriving today. I did find one from National at Auto Zone, as well. Figured I’d give it a shot, in case there was a slight difference. Same issue. It’ll get started all the way around the seal with a few light taps, and then when you go to drive it in, one side will pop out or it’ll just fold under. 

I’ve got the TC on the bench, and I’m hitting it square,  making sure that I’m lined up on the OD of the seal.

Seals aren’t necessarily expensive… but it seems I’m having to buy these shift rail seals in bulk…


Edited by cyates176FA - 16 Mar. 2023 at 7:02am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote willyt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2023 at 9:04am
Hope things go well today. Have you considered contacting a bearing supply house? Locally we have Applied Industrial Supply. I have found these type companies to be very helpful with various sizing issues and a good selection of brands.
Good luck.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cyates176FA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2023 at 9:18am
Originally posted by willyt willyt wrote:

Hope things go well today. Have you considered contacting a bearing supply house? Locally we have Applied Industrial Supply. I have found these type companies to be very helpful with various sizing issues and a good selection of brands.
Good luck.

I'll do a little Google-ing to see who's out there and what they suggest. When I measure everything, it looks like it should all fit. Just a PITA to be *nearly done* and get jammed up on 2 seals. I'm sure I'll get it, though. 

I may see if I can substitute a clamp or vise for the mallet. Maybe steady pressure would work better than the shock? Seems to be just the normal trial and error - just frustrating. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeff J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2023 at 9:48am
Shift rails in the way make it more difficult. If I don’t have anything in the way, I don’t mess with any of the tactics I noticed above. I take something flat, like a 2x4, lay it across the seal and hit the 2x4 with the hammer. A couple of good whacks and the seals are flush with the part. Working the edge in a circle has never produced good results for me.  

This thread come at absolutely the best time for me.  I am getting ready to install mine but I haven’t looked to see what I need to install the seals yet. I almost bolted that housing to the transfer case the other day but decided to let the hardware soak a bit and clean before installing it. I may actually own a proper seal driver that fits it… as long as I remember to install the seals before bolting the housing to the transfer case. 


Edited by Jeff J - 16 Mar. 2023 at 9:49am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cyates176FA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2023 at 9:56am
Originally posted by Jeff J Jeff J wrote:

Shift rails in the way make it more difficult. If I don’t have anything in the way, I don’t mess with any of the tactics I noticed above. I take something flat, like a 2x4, lay it across the seal and hit the 2x4 with the hammer. A couple of good whacks and the seals are flush with the part. Working the edge in a circle has never produced good results for me.  

This thread come at absolutely the best time for me.  I am getting ready to install mine but I haven’t looked to see what I need to install the seals yet. I almost bolted that housing to the transfer case the other day but decided to let the hardware soak a bit and clean before installing it. I may actually own a proper seal driver that fits it… as long as I remember to install the seals before bolting the housing to the transfer case. 

Yeah, had I watched another video or read a different set of instructions, it may have had me install the seals first. Luck of the draw, I guess. 

Worst case, I can pull the front bearing cap, and pull the short shift rail out. I would prefer to not do that, just because disassembling the TC now that I've got all the shims where I need them on the rear cap doesn't look like the best option. 

I feel like if there was a seal that had a wall that curved in a bit at the bottom would be easier to drive in. The ones that came with the Novak kit are straight, so it may want to bind-up more. I'll keep looking and trying. 

Also, just for the good of the order, the National seal is part# 471466 at auto zone - in case someone looks for a part number one day. 
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