Dana 20 to Dana 18 conversion Help |
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Stev
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2391 |
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Posted: 20 Sep. 2021 at 9:03am |
I am working on installing the Low Transfer case Gears. Going with the large hole transfer case and am stuck.
I am disassembling the Dana 20 case. I can't figure out how to get the shift rails and pop its out. The pop its have covers that are like tiny freeze plugs on top of the fasteners. I have considered just using cut off wheel and slicing the shift trails between the case and the casting that contains the pop its (I have it unbolted and there is about 1/2" play now. More detail: This is a complete zero mile Dana 20 NOS transfer case for a mid 1960 International Scout. I pulled the intermediate shaft and gear, both drive yokes, all the external bolts, the shift fork is free for the rear out put, remove the front bearing race on front side of the case. Both shift rails are still in the case and the shift yoke for the front wheel is still locked on to its shift rail and it set screw is un accusable. Any thoughts of what to try next. Thanks!
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Online Points: 4186 |
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1972 Technical Service Manual (TSM) Remove the left fork set screw. Rotate the left fork 1/4 turn clockwise. Hold the shift fork and use a punch through the roll pin hole as a handle to pull the shift rail out through the case. NOTE: When shift fork is free of the rail, use hand to catch poppet ball and spring under shift rail.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Stev
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2391 |
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Great - I will try that tonight! Thanks
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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Stev
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2391 |
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That worked Oldtime! I got one of the shift fork rod out and the shift fork pop it assembly off of the case.
Now what is the most reasonable way to get the the front out put shaft / gears out of the case without cracking it. I see videos of people knocking the assembly with a hammer to remove the assemble through the rear of the case. At least one of the manuals shows a hatchet modified to act as a pickle fork to separate one of the bearings from the case. Any recommendations. Thanks!
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Online Points: 4186 |
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If I recall correct you just need to:
1)Remove the front propellor shaft yoke from the front output shaft. 2)Remove the rear bearing cap cover. 3)Use brass or softer hammer and tap front end of shaft back toward the rear of case. Or you could drive a pointed drift into the front center of the output shaft. Tightness just depends on how tightly the bearing cups fit into the case bores.
Edited by oldtime - 21 Sep. 2021 at 1:23pm |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Stev
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2391 |
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Oldtime - It is out! I used the 20 ton press and just pushed it off instead of using the soft hammer. It came right off. Thanks
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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Greaser007
Member Joined: 16 Jan. 2018 Location: Anderson, Calif Status: Offline Points: 850 |
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I haven't began my Super D-18 build yet, since my Willys is again on a back-burner.
But when I do, I will be sure to contact Ken (Oldtime) for support. Back in 2019 when I was modifying my L134 bellhousing to accept a Ford BW T-18 trans, I was pleased to have Ken give me the support and re-assuring advice on pre-heat, welding amperage and electrode. Thank you Ken !
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