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Dana 25 and Dana 41 Overhaul Kits

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jgodfrey View Drop Down
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Joined: 07 Oct. 2020
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jgodfrey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Dana 25 and Dana 41 Overhaul Kits
    Posted: 22 Nov. 2020 at 6:35pm
My journey continues with my frame-off restoration of my 1946 CJ2A (46877) that has been in our family for over 40 years.

I have the frame back from media blasting and paint and now am turning my attention to the axles.  Like the transmission and transfer case rebuilds, this is a learning experience for me.  When I was 18 I attempted to to a brake job on this Jeep and remember it being a nightmare dealing with the front hubs, etc.

Well, now I am doing all new brakes from lines to shoes.  So I might as well deal with the axles.  In my first assessment none of the hubs have any play in them, except the front right.  And it is significant movement.

So, I am thinking I will tear these down and do a rebuild.  The gears were always good when I drove it years ago, and the person the did the frame pulled it 80 miles round trip at 60+ mph on a front-end only carrier (no I am not happy about that).  I wanted to do the axles before the frame was painted but let myself get talked into frame repairs first.

Not knowing all the specific parts typically replaced in an overhaul I was looking for a rebuild kit for each axle.  Does anyone have recommendations for a brand or vendor?  Kaiser always has such nice "shop by diagram" and rebuild kits, but wow, expensive.  I see similar kits for around $100 less, but don't want to make a mistake.

Any thoughts or guidance is appreciated.
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Oldpappy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov. 2020 at 9:15pm
Lots of Jeeps have been flat towed all over the country over the years as that was pretty much a standard way to haul them to hunting camps. I would not assume the 80 mile tow did any significant damage, but would look into the pumpkin just in case.

I didn't have to "rebuild" my axles. The gears in the rear axle were still good, and the front axle is a NOS military surplus axle. What I did do was replace all the bearings and seals in both.

I don't know of a kit, but at basic level you will at least need new bearings and seals. I always buy new hardware kits for the front (nuts and washers). The front spindle nuts are often in bad shape because people without any sense use a hammer and chisel to remove them instead of buying a $10 socket. I buy new nuts for the back axle if they are boogered up. Hopefully the gears are in good shape.

I bought all my parts from QTM, and was very happy with the quality and price. 

The front axle has inner seals in the axle tubes which require pulling the differential out to get to. The outer seals are in the hubs so are easy to get to.

The rear axle has seals in the end of the tubes which can be replaced once the axles have been pulled.

For "how to" I suggest you look for Youtube videos by "Metalshaper", he knows what he is doing, and has made very helpful videos on every step of this. Study these until you know what you need to know.

There are many ways to mess this job up. Most common mistake made is destroying the rear hubs by improper installation. It is just as simple to do it right as it is to do wrong. Put the hub on first, then tap in the key, add the washer snug up the nut then torque the nut to 150 lbs. If the castle nut doesn't line up with the hole for the cotter pin, tighten it until it does, do not loosen it. This pushes the hub and key onto the taper at the same time. If you put the key in first and slide the hub over it, the key will be pushed ahead of the, it will ride up the ramp and will split the hub.
If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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Rus Curtis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rus Curtis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2020 at 2:41pm
Having a D41 under my CJ3B (it came like that), I just got done rebuilding.  There was significant play with the case gears (spider) so I removed it and disassembled.  It was a good thing.  The inner bearings were brinelled and the gap clearance for the side gears were out of tolerance.  Using SM, see para N-12A and fig 263, I needed to shim.  I couldn't find shims and ended up purchasing sheets from McMasters and getting them cut locally.  

I had to mix and match the bearings/seals and other parts between locally and mail order (I used removed parts for numbers when getting locally).  After all was done, I'm happy.
Rus Curtis
Alabama
1954 CJ3B
Bantam T3-C
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