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Willys Jeep Disk Conversion for $250

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mickeykelley View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug. 2018 at 4:21am
I've not seen a good comparison pic so you just have to flip back and forth. FWIW, a Geo Tracker weighs about 2,900 pounds vs a jeep 2,500ish depending on the flavor.  The Geo came with 15" rims. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveBonny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep. 2018 at 11:20pm
Stev,
I'm interested in converting my front brakes using your Geo Tracker parts list.  Do you still have any of your 3/8 steel caliper mounts available to beg steel or buy?

Thanks
Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep. 2018 at 2:41am
Steve, 

Not I don't any more plates.  But if you PM me and send me your email address I will send you the drawing and you can have a local hot rod shop cut you some plates.  That is how most people are doing it.  

Stev.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tufcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep. 2018 at 3:09am
All (and Rivers Fulton), a few have asked about the Geo brake upgrade.  All parts and process is listed below.  I just did this and made a world of difference:

Parts needed – All NAPA parts numbers:

Calipers with mounting brackets (L/R)
 - Brake Caliper with Hardware - Front Left - (Eclipse Semi-Loaded)   PART # :CAL SE1764A
Brake Caliper with Hardware - Front Right - (Eclipse Semi-Loaded)  PART # :CAL SE1763A

Rotors – solid non-vented (need qty 2)
 - Brake Rotor (Rotor Only) - Front - Premium  PART # :NB 4886008

Brake pads 
 - Brake Pads - Front – Proformer - OE Semi-Metallic  PART # :PFB PF7305M

Tire bolts/studs/lugs (need qty 10)
(These are longer that the stock studs by 3/8 of an inch to accommodate the thickness of the brake disk)
 - Wheel Bolt - PART # :641-1112

Lug nuts (need 10 – maybe)
If needed – depends on if your current bolts are left-hand or right-hand turn.  (I had 2 wheels LH and 1 wheel RH?)

Metric bolts and washers – CLASS 10.9 or better (need qty 4) 
 - M12 Split Lock Washer
 - M12 1.25 x 30mm

(To mount the caliper mounting brackets to the backing plates – Napa did not have the bolts.  They recommended Home Depot.  I purchased from a local store – VF Sales - http://www.vfsalesnoho.com/ .  They also provided the brake lines in about 5 minutes.  Fastenal also provides them.



Spinal to steering knuckle bolts and washers (need qty 12)
(These bolts are longer than stock because they have to capture the spindle and flat bracket that the caliper mounting brackets attach too.)



Brake lines (need qty 2)
 (These need to be custom made. I was worried this would be difficult.  Found a shop without trying and it took 5 minutes for them to do what I needed.  I did bring the old brake line and new caliper with me to ensure fit.  These guys did it for me - http://www.vfsalesnoho.com/):  

 - 1/8 SST Brake Hose (17”)
   Banjo 10 x 10MM
   Female 3/8 x 24 19MM
   Braided Hose Insert/Silver
   Banjo Bolt 10 x 1.0 x22mm
   H/D Copper washer 10mm

Mounting bracket (need qty 2)
 I got these from Brennan’s garage (https://www.facebook.com/Brennans-Garage-147768505901277/)  Best deal, quick shipping and fit perfectly.  Some folks use 3/8” or 1/2”.  His are 1/4” and plenty strong.  He includes the spacers. Easy.

Bearings (need qty 4)
 (Maybe not needed, but with the hub removed it made sense to replace.  Mine were worn a bit.)

Inner Wheel Bearing Cone  (need qty 4)
- Rear Wheel Inner Wheel Bearing Cone - Rear Wheel PART # :BRG BR18590  (ignore “rear”)
Wheel Bearing Cup 
 - Front Wheel Wheel Bearing Cup - Front Wheel PART # :BRG BR18520

Wheel spacers (need qty 2)
 I didn’t need these as my rims had plenty of clearance.  I have civilian rims with 6 x 16 tires. Combat rims require ½” wheel spacers 5x5.5

Process:
 Remove wheel
 Remove locking hubs/caps
 Remove spindle nuts and washers
 Pull off the hub/brake drum assembly (take care with the bearings)
 Separate drums from hubs
 Use a hydraulic/arbor press to remove studs
 Install the new studs
 Remove the backing plate from the knuckle
 Remove the old flexible brake lines (keep the main hard lines from the MC)
 Bolt the adapter bracket to the knuckle in place of the old drum backing plate (usually 10 or 2 position)
 Test fit the caliper
 Reinstall the hub (and replace bearings if you’re doing that)
 Install the rotor
 Install the pads
 Install the calipers
 Install wheel spacers (if needed)
 Connect the new flex hoses
 Put wheel back on

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Stev View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep. 2018 at 3:15am
tufcj2a - Awesome!
Stev
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveBonny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep. 2018 at 3:56am
Wow, you guys are making this too easy!   Thanks for all the details.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep. 2018 at 5:32am
Welcome to the page, SteveBonny!
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep. 2018 at 5:56am
I too just did this on a CJ5.  I choose to go with the standard Geo hose.  If you do, only get the passenger side as the driver's side is different.  Obviously get 2 of the passenger.  Remember the Geo is metric and the jeep is SAE so you have to convert.  A custom hose does the conversion.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eestes1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep. 2018 at 11:35am
tufcj2a, I'm not doing a brake conversion, but I can appreciate the time and effort your post took. Thats the kind of thing that makes thjs place so great.
Rick Estes
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveBonny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep. 2018 at 2:06pm
Stev,
I think I PM'd you last night with my Email address but I was having some technical difficulties with internet connection.  Please let me know if you didn't get it and I'll resend!
Thanks
Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveBonny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep. 2018 at 5:30pm
All, I have just been surfing the net finding all the Geo tracker disc conversion parts.   One thing that's still not clear to me from reading through this thread is whether I need to change the master cylinder or need to add a proportioning valve to make this all work?   I understand the safety benefits of the dual system, I just want to understand the options as I piece this all together.  I plan to leave the 9" drums on the back.   I have a new stock master cylinder from Kaiser that I fitted a couple of hundred miles ago and I'm wondering if it will work correctly with this set up?  If I stick with the stock master cyl do I need a proportioning valve to get the front/rear balance correct?
Thanks for any clarification!
Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep. 2018 at 8:19pm
I had read way back in this thread where someone said they been using their original master for 4 years with no issues but I don't remember if they did the proportioning or not.  That was my original game plan, at least to try it.  However, my master was just pushing air so instead of throwing money/time at a rebuild, I just stopped mid stream and did the dual conversion. I want to address this issue this one time, then be thru and try enjoying the jeep.

Edited by mickeykelley - 17 Sep. 2018 at 2:38pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2018 at 1:59pm

Steve, 

I installed a dual master cylinder for Herm (the overdrive guy) and I did put a proportioning valve in on my 1946 three years ago.

I am going to do this conversions to may 1948 and my active 1949 project.  I ordered the dual master cylinder kits from Herm about two weeks ago.  I will use a proportioning valve on each of those Jeeps also.

Stev  

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveBonny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2018 at 3:53pm
I'm planning on using the geo flex hoses to connect the geo calipers to the hardline mounted on the front axle.   Does anyone have a part number or accurate description for the adaptor I would need to connect the flex hose to the hard line?

The Geo hose has a female 10x1mm thread with what looks like some kind of inverted flare.   I'm not sure what the Jeep hard line would be male 3/8-24 flare of some kind?
Thanks
Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep. 2018 at 12:03am
http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/my-geo-tracker-disc-conversion-experience.132686/. Post 6.  Also look at pics of the hoses.  I'm going to get my brake/clutch place cut it down and put the SAE end on and shorten the line.  That way avoid the adapter and less connections to leak.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveBonny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep. 2018 at 1:00am
Awesome, thanks mickeykelley!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aalbury Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep. 2018 at 1:13am
I think there is a pair for sale over in the member created parts section, listed as custom sculpted paper weights.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unclemoak Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct. 2018 at 5:22pm
Originally posted by mickeykelley mickeykelley wrote:

http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/my-geo-tracker-disc-conversion-experience.132686/. Post 6.  Also look at pics of the hoses.  I'm going to get my brake/clutch place cut it down and put the SAE end on and shorten the line.  That way avoid the adapter and less connections to leak.

Instead of the Geo tracker hoses, I'd recommend using earler 90s 2wd front S10 houses. They will marry up to factory 2a hardlines without modification.

I did a somewhat thorough write up of my four wheel Geo Tracker Disk swap over on the 3a page.

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