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Dana 25 Front Disk Conversion for $250

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mickeykelley View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar. 2017 at 11:21am
I know this is a CJ2a site but I follow it as many things apply to my early CJ5. Thoughts on these working for the CJ5's? Uses the same Dana 25. I'm really wanting disc brakes, but want to stick with the factory 16 by 4.5 rims.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar. 2017 at 11:35am
Originally posted by berettajeep berettajeep wrote:

Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

(Anybody out there putting any money into a Citation restoration?)


 Maybe if it is a X-11 LOL




 

As a matter of fact, I am! And yes, it IS an X-11. Big smile   BW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar. 2017 at 7:29pm
Not to change the subject (he said, changing the subject) but what's under the hood of that X-11?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar. 2017 at 7:46pm
Originally posted by mickeykelley mickeykelley wrote:

I know this is a CJ2a site but I follow it as many things apply to my early CJ5. Thoughts on these working for the CJ5's? Uses the same Dana 25. I'm really wanting disc brakes, but want to stick with the factory 16 by 4.5 rims.

It'll work perfectly fine in a CJ5
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar. 2017 at 9:48pm
Originally posted by Ol' Unreliable Ol' Unreliable wrote:

Not to change the subject (he said, changing the subject) but what's under the hood of that X-11?

A "Special High Performance" 2.8L V6. It's got some special frame bracing, special springs, shocks, struts, exhaust, etc. It's like the Citation version of a Z-28. The guys that're really into them don't like to admit that it really is a Citation. LOL   BW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2017 at 12:34pm
Originally posted by clayvt clayvt wrote:

I just ordered/picked up everything to do the chevy swap. Holy crap these calipers are huge!
I was able to get the calipers/hoses/pads and hardware kit all in stock at one of my local auto zones.
Rotors and studs from rock auto and the backing plates from the linked eBay seller

Excited to get everything in the mail and installed!

Question: I got the factory brake lines with the banjo bolt on the caliper. Is there going to be any issues using an adapter into my much smaller brake line? I don't remember the exact size I used but it's pretty much the smallest. The lines for these are massive...


Let us know how it goes as I for one am on the fence. Are you going to use stock rims?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2017 at 12:37pm
Originally posted by Stev Stev wrote:

Stan,

The Tracker is a bolt on solution that uses stock CJ2A rims.  No spacer.  What else have you got that can bolt up with no wheel spacer.  Let me know and we can figure out the backing plate.  The Tracker conversions backing plate is 3/8 piece of flat steel no bends, no special forgings, no stamping.  Just a pattern and bunch of holes.

I am all in on  whatever it takes to make these wonderful old machines actually stop reliably.  

They made 998,590 trackers - just under a million so there might be some parts out there for now.  How many CJ2As do you think are out there still in use?  A few thousand would be my guess.  Seems to be a lot of Trackers that could be scrapped for parts.

All good here just be<span style="font-size: 12px;"> safe out there.</span>

Stev  



So if I understand this, I would need to make a backing plate? This pattern you have could be used by a laser cutter to make this plate?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick G Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar. 2017 at 12:18am
Here's what mine looks like. I put the big GM calipers and brackets, dust shields, etc. on all four corners. It uses late model CJ rotors. Got the kit from The Jeep Guy about 4 yrs ago; pricey but included everything needed and I didn't have to piece mill it together. I did have to buy the studs and press the rotors onto the hubs.

While I was at it, I also replaced all the brake lines. I used 3/16" steel tubing. Also installed a wilwood dual reservoir master cylinder mounted in the original frame location. This setup works extremely well. I HIGHLY recommend disc brakes.

P.S. I'm running 15x8 rims with no clearance issues. Planning to change to 16x7 rims in the near future.



Edited by Rick G - 22 Mar. 2017 at 12:21am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar. 2017 at 10:11am
Rick,

What is the number for the Wilwood dual master cylinder you used?  Did you use a proportioning valve with you set up?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick G Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar. 2017 at 12:49pm
Stev,
I used a wilwood part number 260-7563. http://wilwood.com/Search/PartNoSearch.aspx?q=260-7563

I did not use a proportioning valve. My understanding is, that is used when you have disc on one axle and drums on the other. Because I have four wheel discs, I didn't need it. I did, however, install some residual pressure valves (2 psi, I think) because the MC is located low on the frame (at or below the caliper level). This turned out unnecessary anyway because I mounted my remote reservoirs on the firewall (for ease of filling), or maybe the system just didn't need them. I removed the residual valves and have no problems at all.

I would first try it without any proportioning or residual valves and see if it works for you. Got nothing to lose that way and you can always splice them in if you need to.

Rick
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67charger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar. 2017 at 1:03pm
That looks like a good install, I am still collecting all the parts I need for the tracker conversion.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar. 2017 at 1:05pm
Rick,

Our 1946 has disc only on the front - and I used a proportion valve.  I had the rears lock up first when I tested it so I added the valve.  They work great.

Thanks for the link I will check it out.  There is a project build on a 1949 in my future - just might put disc brakes on all four this time.

Thanks,

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar. 2017 at 1:08pm
Rick,  where you able to mount that master cylinder directly into the OEM factory hole in the frame?
Stev
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bad Karma Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar. 2017 at 1:13pm
Originally posted by Rick G Rick G wrote:

Stev,
I used a wilwood part number 260-7563. http://wilwood.com/Search/PartNoSearch.aspx?q=260-7563
Rick

any pics of this installed?  Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nick_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar. 2017 at 1:26pm
Originally posted by Rick G Rick G wrote:

Here's what mine looks like. I put the big GM calipers and brackets, dust shields, etc. on all four corners. It uses late model CJ rotors. Got the kit from The Jeep Guy about 4 yrs ago; pricey but included everything needed and I didn't have to piece mill it together. I did have to buy the studs and press the rotors onto the hubs.

While I was at it, I also replaced all the brake lines. I used 3/16" steel tubing. Also installed a wilwood dual reservoir master cylinder mounted in the original frame location. This setup works extremely well. I HIGHLY recommend disc brakes.

Very cool, the 4-wheel discs is a great safety upgrade. I haven't decided if I'm going to run the dust shields or not. My theory is, for my off-road Jeep, the mud might get packed inside. How close is the clearance against the rotor?

For those asking about proportioning valves:
My understanding is a proportioning valve is needed with a dual reservoir master cylinder and disc/drums. I'm currently running the same brake setup on my 3A, but kept the standard master cylinder. It works fine. Since I'm upgrading to dual I will use the valve. Disc/disc does not need it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick G Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar. 2017 at 12:18am
Originally posted by Stev Stev wrote:

Rick,  where you able to mount that master cylinder directly into the OEM factory hole in the frame?

I did not use the OEM factory holes in the frame.  I had to build a bracket for the MC and I welded it to the frame.  You could probably fabricate a bracket that would utilize the original MC bolt locations.  I don't remember now why I didn't do that.  Perhaps for installation expediency, perhaps for a stronger more rigid mount; I just dont remember.

Bad Karma, I'll try to get some installation pics tomorrow.

Nick, I wouldn't use the dust shields.  The ones I have only cover the back side of the hub, no coverage of the actual rotor.  I honestly don't know the purpose of the little dust shields/cups that came in the kit.  The hub has a seal and I guess that cup is supposed to keep the big stuff off the seal.  I just put it on to feel like I was getting my money's worth I guess.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 61Healey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar. 2017 at 12:10pm
I did a similar conversion on my '66 Bronco. I used all Ford parts for it. BUT the end result is that big underbarked Bronco stopped. I plan to do this on my '46 CJ2A once I get around to it. Better safe than sorry.
I do not believe the Chevy Caliper bracket and the Ford bracket are the same. Ford uses a dovetail slide type caliper that is held into the bracket with a special wedge clip while Chevy 'floats' on pins.
I like the secondary conversion of the GEO Tracker to the CJ2A also. They made millions of those too over the years and a non-vented disc will do just fine in these applications. I also have a '94 Suzuki Samurai in which I have upgraded to GEO Tracker Brakes in much the same way. The bigger upgrade on the Samurai was the master cylinder. It has servo power brakes so it easily handled the slightly larger brake system. The Samurai was a total rip off of the early CJ- Basically the same in most regards as track and length. Sam
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr. 2017 at 9:55pm
I picked up a set of plates/adapters from Stev and I'm converting my front brakes right now. Since the front gear set has 90 degrees of slop in the pinion I'm installing cherry used innards at the same time. 

The plates are very nicely made:


Yeah, you read that right - a full quarter turn of slop in my front diff- the pinion teeth are worn halfway through.

I picked up the rotors and calipers used from a local parts yard (Spalding in Spokane) and the parts were $13 each. I'll be picking up the bolts on the parts list tomorrow and figuring out the metric/SAE brake line conversion. All told, the front axle disk brake swap will come in under $130. That's $10 cheaper than a set of new shoes and two new drums that don't have the slots to properly adjust the shoes with a feeler gauge.

If all else fails on the SAE/metric brake line conversion, I'll just make a short steel line with an SAE fitting on one end and a metric on the other for each side. This would allow going back to original with minimal work. It would replace the 'S' line at the knuckle.

Of course, I could just lop off the last inch of the brake lines on the axle on each side, slide on a metric fitting and double flare it. cake.


Edited by LesBerg - 01 Apr. 2017 at 10:33pm
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