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Dana 25 Front Disk Conversion for $250

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clayvt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote clayvt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr. 2017 at 11:49pm
After some searching and remembering one of the first questions asked in this thread, I got what will work.
That calipers listed in the OP are for the 2WD C10. And these are what I've been struggling with.
What I just picked up are 4WD K10 front calipers. Just a quick fit check in the store, looks like they are good to go. The lines come out the back and look just like yours RickG.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nick_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr. 2017 at 2:01am
Originally posted by clayvt clayvt wrote:

After some searching and remembering one of the first questions asked in this thread, I got what will work.
That calipers listed in the OP are for the 2WD C10. And these are what I've been struggling with.
What I just picked up are 4WD K10 front calipers. Just a quick fit check in the store, looks like they are good to go. The lines come out the back and look just like yours RickG.

Well crapola. Could you tell us the correct part numbers? I'll be exchanging mine as well Ouch
'47 CJ2A/M151 Submarine Jeep
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clayvt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote clayvt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr. 2017 at 2:35am
Fitment confirmed! and it looks like 0 grinding will be needed ever.  The only thing in the way could possibly be the fill plug.  

K10 calipers
Auto zone: C532, C533
Oreillys: 18-4124, 18-4125

any brake pads for these calipers.  I got the cheapest ones Oreilly's had ($12).

The C10 brake lines will NOT work with these calipers.  The banjo bolt is one size smaller than the ones I got for the C10.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr. 2017 at 9:20am
Originally posted by clayvt clayvt wrote:

Fitment confirmed! and it looks like 0 grinding will be needed ever.  The only thing in the way could possibly be the fill plug.


So out of curiosity, do you have a set of factory 16" rims to test to see if they clear?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nick_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr. 2017 at 11:41am
Originally posted by clayvt clayvt wrote:

Fitment confirmed! and it looks like 0 grinding will be needed ever.  The only thing in the way could possibly be the fill plug.  

K10 calipers
Auto zone: C532, C533
Oreillys: 18-4124, 18-4125

any brake pads for these calipers.  I got the cheapest ones Oreilly's had ($12).

The C10 brake lines will NOT work with these calipers.  The banjo bolt is one size smaller than the ones I got for the C10.  
Thanks for the info! I updated the first post. It looks like O'Reillys is the cheapest place for the parts, Autozone's core charge is double. Could you show some pictures of the clearance? What brake lines did you end up using?
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clayvt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote clayvt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr. 2017 at 7:41pm
Got the brakes installed!
The brackets, and calipers went on smoothly.
Rebuilding the axel itself was a pain and time consuming figuring out the pinion tension. Knuckles shimmed properly (muuuuuch better than when they came off).
I picked up the brake hoses that are supposed to go with these calipers with a huge fitting where the lines hook up to the hard lines. I went to the one hydrolic shop that made a few lines before to put a 3/8 fitting on them. Apparently they went out of business a few months ago. Ran all around town trying to find someone who could do it. 4 shops said no. Ended up at a hot rod shop and they started scratching their head with adapters. They were almost ready to say they couldn't do it but decided to try piecing together a custom line. It worked and I ended up with braided lines for only $10 more than I paid for the factory lines.
I still used the 10mm banjo bolt that they came with.
And I found out I got two passenger side calipers. It still fits on the drivers side but the bleeder valve is down. No big deal.
I have aftermarket 15" wheels and they juuuuust barley clear!





Got all that buttoned up and prepped the motor for install. Putting the flywheel on and one of the taper bolts sheared off. Wasn't even at torque specs. So mad right now not only do I have to wait for replacements, but I'm more mad I have to mess with the rear main again to get it out....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MaxSheridan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr. 2017 at 9:02pm
Originally posted by clayvt clayvt wrote:

 
And I found out I got two passenger side calipers. It still fits on the drivers side but the bleeder valve is down. No big deal.

You're going to want to get the correct caliper. You'll never get all the air out otherwise. (Well, you can. But it will be a huge pain in the a**!)  Much easier to get the right part.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr. 2017 at 9:47pm
Just a personal opinion but I don't think I'd want that much length on that braided hose....looks like a snag just waiting to happen.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr. 2017 at 2:22am
Yeah, why have that rubber flex hose if you have the braided line?  Other than getting the fittings to work, I mean...  Embarrassed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67charger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr. 2017 at 8:59am
Im starting to think the geo tracker conversion is easier from what i have experienced and read.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr. 2017 at 10:08am
How are you going to deal with all that braided hose. Looks like it woul rub tire. Problem just waiting to happen?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nick_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr. 2017 at 10:12am
Originally posted by 67charger 67charger wrote:

Im starting to think the geo tracker conversion is easier from what i have experienced and read.

Why is that? Aside from a parts number mishap on building this kit, it bolts right together (and no grinding on the knuckle).

The Geo is nice but the need for a custom machined bracket might be difficult for those without a machine shop. Next time we're together it would be neat to compare braking distances to see if there's a difference.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67charger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr. 2017 at 4:39pm
Yes the bracket is an obstacle, but the geo rotor fits on the outside of the hub too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote clayvt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr. 2017 at 5:55pm
Originally posted by Ol' Unreliable Ol' Unreliable wrote:

Yeah, why have that rubber flex hose if you have the braided line?  Other than getting the fittings to work, I mean...  Embarrassed


Because whoever put the brake lines in (my father and i 20 years ago) put a male end on the end of the hard line. The shop didn't have a female double inverted flare female for the braided line.
I'm not going to leave it dangling like that at all. I know it's going to rub. I'm waiting till the fenders are on and will secure it to either the fenders or frame once I figure out full travel sweep.
The lines were "custom" in that they were pieced together from off the shelf fittings and hose that go together. This was the shortest line they had.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr. 2017 at 8:15pm
I agree, that doesn't look too safe. When I did the longer lines on mine I sort of clocked them so there was a sort of a partial coil in them to keep them out of the way.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr. 2017 at 9:33pm
Originally posted by clayvt clayvt wrote:

Originally posted by Ol' Unreliable Ol' Unreliable wrote:

Yeah, why have that rubber flex hose if you have the braided line?  Other than getting the fittings to work, I mean...  Embarrassed


Because whoever put the brake lines in (my father and i 20 years ago) put a male end on the end of the hard line. The shop didn't have a female double inverted flare female for the braided line.
I'm not going to leave it dangling like that at all. I know it's going to rub. I'm waiting till the fenders are on and will secure it to either the fenders or frame once I figure out full travel sweep.
The lines were "custom" in that they were pieced together from off the shelf fittings and hose that go together. This was the shortest line they had.


Getting the fittings to work out can sometimes be less than ideal.  If it works, though...
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WeeWilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr. 2017 at 10:33pm
Originally posted by clayvt clayvt wrote:

Originally posted by Ol' Unreliable Ol' Unreliable wrote:

Yeah, why have that rubber flex hose if you have the braided line?  Other than getting the fittings to work, I mean...  Embarrassed


Because whoever put the brake lines in (my father and i 20 years ago) put a male end on the end of the hard line. The shop didn't have a female double inverted flare female for the braided line.
I'm not going to leave it dangling like that at all. I know it's going to rub. I'm waiting till the fenders are on and will secure it to either the fenders or frame once I figure out full travel sweep.
The lines were "custom" in that they were pieced together from off the shelf fittings and hose that go together. This was the shortest line they had.


One way to tidy it up a little would be to use a brake line 'T' block mounted to the frame and plug off the extra hole and do away with that rubber line. You could even shorten the hard line and re-flare it and mount the 'T' on the inside of the frame to take up more of the slack.

    Jim

    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote clayvt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2017 at 9:41am
Brilliant!
Why didn't I think of that?!
Oh because I'm still siting here fuming over the sheared flywheel dowel pin.
2 NOS ones on the way from dabella.
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