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Dana 25 Front Disk Conversion for $250

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Ol' Unreliable View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr. 2017 at 11:03pm
Originally posted by clayvt clayvt wrote:

...I'm still siting here fuming over the sheared flywheel dowel pin.


Some days you eat the bear and some days... Ouch
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote clayvt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2017 at 1:15am
Ok, got the new taper dowels and stuffed the motor all back together.
Re-bled the brakes after eliminating the rubber flex hoses.
I intend to get a proper driver side caliper but it's going to take awhile as it's going to be a special order.
But, I took the drivers caliper off and placed it on the front of the rotor to bleed it. Got a lot of air out but clearly not all. It's a 2 pumper right now but holy crap! It really comes to a nice halt after that second pump!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote airforcemajor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2017 at 3:35pm
Stev,

I am considering putting disk brakes on both the front and rear axle of my '52 CJ-3A; do you know if your bracket will work as is on a Dana 44?

Also, what size bore did you use for your master cylinder?

And finally, will you send me a pattern for your bracket?

Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2017 at 4:12pm
airforcemajor,

I don't know.  I have never tried to bolt the bracket up to a stock Dana 44.  I have a full floating Dana 44 (made a Vernco slide locker years ago) using spinals from a Dana 25 and machining axles (don't try this at home).  The plate steel bracket bolts right up to home made Dana 44 full floater.  But will the plate steel bracket act as the bearing retainer is the only question for the stock Dana 44.  I think it will work since the standard 9" drum backing plate is the bearing retainer on a stock Dana 44 and the backing plates are the same on the front and rear.  I will need to check and get back to you.

I got my master cylinder from Herm the Overdrive Guy.  I am running a dual master cylinder that was set up for drum brakes at this point.  When I added that Geo Tracker disc brakes the front I put a proportioning valve on the rear.   In the future I will going with a master cylinder from Herm for a front and rear disk brake set up.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Aug. 2017 at 1:48pm
Originally posted by 67charger 67charger wrote:

Im starting to think the geo tracker conversion is easier from what i have experienced and read.

Did you end up doing the Geo route?  I'm thinking along the same route and going to collect parts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67charger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Aug. 2017 at 2:33pm
Yes I did go the Geo route, and it was pretty easy as long as you have the knuckle plates to mount the caliper to.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Aug. 2017 at 3:48pm
I did get the plates for the front.  I do not plan to do the rear at this point.  Looking over the stuff in this thread and the G503 listing, it seems pretty straight forward.  If you don't mind me asking, which place did you go with for the rotors, calipers and brackets?  Looking at NAPA, ORileys and RockAuto, there are so many different brands that its hard to really tell.  Rock doesn't really have for right and left with the bracket so by the time you add them all up, there really isn't much difference in price, given the project.  The parts that I'm still a little confused is the hydraulic hose part and whether or not a spacer is really needed for the factory CJ wheels from the 50's.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67charger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Aug. 2017 at 7:11pm
I bought most of my stuff from O'Reilly, AutoZone and advance auto.  If you look at my pictures, the metric to sae fittings were from Napa.  The calipers were pricey since I didn't have core exchange.  
The hoses for mine were the stock sae flex hoses to the knuckles.  Then from the knuckles where you would have the s-lines for stock I took the stock geo tracker caliper flex lines to the caliper.  I used two of either driver or passenger side flex lines.  I forgot, which one I used.  
The spacers depends on what rim.  I have standard cj2a 16 inch rims and so far they don't rub.  If you have 15 inch or m38, combat etc rims I don't know if You need spacers or not.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug. 2017 at 12:06am
I've got the stock 58 CJ5 16 inch wheels that have the rivets. I think I'm going to get all the parts except the hoses and get it apart so I can get a better feel for the hose issue.  The post above where the banjo is the same for metric and sae I'm thinking just get the correct bolt. But I think I just need to get started. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug. 2017 at 9:46am
Originally posted by clayvt clayvt wrote:

Ok, got the new taper dowels and stuffed the motor all back together.
Re-bled the brakes after eliminating the rubber flex hoses.
I intend to get a proper driver side caliper but it's going to take awhile as it's going to be a special order.
But, I took the drivers caliper off and placed it on the front of the rotor to bleed it. Got a lot of air out but clearly not all. It's a 2 pumper right now but holy crap! It really comes to a nice halt after that second pump!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug. 2017 at 8:43pm
Originally posted by Nick_ Nick_ wrote:


Wheel Spacers - $11
5x5.5 bolt pattern, 1/4'' thick
You only need these if running the stock MB/CJ2A rim sizes. If using aftermarkets with offset, don't purchase. These are made of cast. I've been running these exact ones for over 1,000 miles on my Jeep and they work flawlessly. If you'd like aluminum you'll have to shop around.

For those interested, today I was able to link up with clayvt and test original KH 16" rims. I carted both the truck 16 by 5 and jeep 16 by 4 1/2 with me on a recent trip across Texas to Durango and Ruidoso.  He was gracious enough to let me swing by Las Cruces to test.  Both were the earlier rivited rims.  We tried the jeep 4 1/2 and there is no way they will clear.  Both of us agreed that it would require atleast a 1/2" spacer and maybe more.  We were at the end of his studs and it maybe barely cleared.  So we didn't even bother trying the truck 5" ones.  

I was wanting confirmation before I made final decision on either the 58 CJ5 or the 55 wagon.  We want to keep the original factory rims, so I'm going to go the Geo route for the CJ.  As for the wagon, I'm not sure I want to try the Geo route on a wagon weighing like 3,300 pounds vs the CJ and Geo in that 2,500 range. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick G Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug. 2017 at 1:30am
Originally posted by mickeykelley mickeykelley wrote:

Originally posted by Nick_ Nick_ wrote:


Wheel Spacers - $11
5x5.5 bolt pattern, 1/4'' thick
You only need these if running the stock MB/CJ2A rim sizes. If using aftermarkets with offset, don't purchase. These are made of cast. I've been running these exact ones for over 1,000 miles on my Jeep and they work flawlessly. If you'd like aluminum you'll have to shop around.

For those interested, today I was able to link up with clayvt and test original KH 16" rims. I carted both the truck 16 by 5 and jeep 16 by 4 1/2 with me on a recent trip across Texas to Durango and Ruidoso.  He was gracious enough to let me swing by Las Cruces to test.  Both were the earlier rivited rims.  We tried the jeep 4 1/2 and there is no way they will clear.  Both of us agreed that it would require atleast a 1/2" spacer and maybe more.  We were at the end of his studs and it maybe barely cleared.

I recently changed wheels and tires.  (Here's a link to that post to see what they look like: https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/i-got-new-shoes-34x9x16_topic40604.html.)

I'm using original KH 16x4.5" wheels.  They would not clear the GM caliper, just as I suspected.  My findings were very similar to yours, Mickey.  I needed 5/8" to just clear the bracket and a more comfortable 3/4" to make me sleep well at night.  Problem is, that much spacing dictates a spacer with studs pressed in and holes for your existing studs, or really long studs and a flat spacer, like the one in the link above.  I ended up buying four 1" spacers (2 sets) that already had the studs pressed in.  I got these from Amazon. 

1.0" 5X5.5 (5x139.7) Wheel Spacers Adapter 1/2"X20 Jeep Ford Dodge WS 5X5.5 1.0 - SmartPartsCo


Cheapest ones on the net.  Quality was very good.   I'm not a fan of running spacers like this but it is the only way I could make these wheels clear the calipers.  I ran this setup across the Rubicon last month without any problems.  I'm pleased with the setup so far.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug. 2017 at 9:46am
Rick, that pretty much is what we came up with when comparing at clayvt house.  So for me, I'm moving forward with the Geo conversion for the CJ.  I already have the 11 bendix for front and rear on the wagon and my approach is going to be putting them on and see how it feels. Since the wagon will primarily be a city driver/enjoyer, I'll see how they feel and then if not totally happy I'll move to a power booster with the drums. Keeping the factory rims is important for us. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan_289 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan. 2018 at 5:26pm
Originally posted by Stev Stev wrote:

Nick,

Disc Brakes are a great safety up grade.

I have done the Geo Tracker conversion on our trail Jeep (Dana 25).  No spacer are required.  I also put a dual master cylinder kit on at the same time (Herm's).  No grinding - stock Cj2A wheels fit.  Stops on a dine!  I love having disk brakes up front!

If people are using their CJ2A and not restoring it, it should be strongly considered.

Be Safe out there.

Stev

Will the Geo kit work with a standard master cylinder and 9" rear brakes?  I am going to do something this year.  no matter how many times I try and adjust mine, I have to stand on them to hold them on a hill.  I hate to lose the original look but I think I can overlook it for safety reasons.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan. 2018 at 6:11pm
Ryan,

I have not tried using the OEM master cylinder with the Geo Tracker Disc brake up grade.  I just figured that having a dual master cylinder is part of the safety up grade.  No matter what you do with the master cylinder add a proportioning valve to keep the rear brakes from locking up before the front brakes.

Just be safe out there!

Stev
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67charger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2018 at 8:13am
I have the stock master cylinder on my geo disc front and cj5 drum rear.  Everything brake wise is new on my jeep so I don't feel really bad about the single master.  Stops almost too good.
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