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Dana 25 locker |
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Nobodyjeff5888 
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Joined: 27 Mar. 2016 Location: Pennsylvania Status: Offline Points: 880 |
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 Topic: Dana 25 lockerPosted: 10 Nov. 2017 at 6:33am |
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Ok running into same problem with front locker as I had with rear. Looking to put a powertrax lockright locker in my d25. The step by step for the how to on this site shows a 2115 -or. But when I go to purchase one on ebay the seller says it's not the correct one. Anyone know which one is correct?
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Nobodyjeff5888
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Posted: 10 Nov. 2017 at 6:34am |
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that was 2115-lr
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Rick G
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Posted: 10 Nov. 2017 at 7:23am |
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I put the 2110-LR in my D25. Stan put the 2115-LR in his. I believe they are the same unit with different part numbers. I think the 2115 is for the D27 but I think the D27 and D25 innards are interchangeable (someone correct me if I’m wrong).
Here’s a pic of mine.  Here's a link to Stan’s install on his. If you notice in his thread the pic with his box says it’s for the D27.
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Nobodyjeff5888
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Posted: 10 Nov. 2017 at 7:59am |
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yes I did notice that. Kaiser sells the 2115 and says it's for the 25 & 27
But on ebay when prompted to insert year and make for the 2115 it comes back "this won't fit your vehicle". Just wanna do it right the first time. Thanks for your help and quick response. Do you like the locker in the front? I have warn hubs so it won't bother me on dry pavement.
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Oilleaker1
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Joined: 06 Sep. 2011 Location: Black Hills, SD Status: Offline Points: 4412 |
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Posted: 10 Nov. 2017 at 12:06pm |
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I put one in mine. I too,had to shim the side gears in the carrier to get within spec. I also had to grind the flashing out in the holes the pins and springs shift back and forth inside of. It really works, but when torqued, you have to learn how to steer. if you momentarily bump the throttle while turning going up it will release just enough to turn. Going down is worse and if you bump the clutch pedal in, it releases momentarily. Most all I have talked to end up hating it. I love what it enables the Jeep to do. The absolute fix which I now have done, is to pull the front transfercase extension and remove the interlock pin. You then drive in two wheel drive with lockers in the back, and shift in and out of 2 wheel low to two wheel 4 low. I also put a longer CJ3A shift lever in if you have the short 2A type lever. I love it now.
To further improve your Jeep, the terraflex low gear set in the transfercase will improve your slow crawling ability over rough stuff even more. Last is the hubs. To get both axles to allign the splines on both sides with a warn lock hub, is near impossible with the positive inclined plane hub. I put the spring loaded Selectros on mine. That way, you turn the hub, and when the axle moves the spline to the right position, it snaps in. When locked on both ends, it will do things other Jeeps won't. It also is a learning experience in ice and snow or very slippery surfaces. The front end will plow ahead straight with the wheels turned and if tipped sideways on a hillside, you can slide down sideways. Be careful. Shift out the front. Oilly
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Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!
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Nobodyjeff5888
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Posted: 10 Nov. 2017 at 12:45pm |
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I had a fella tell me that if needed I could unlock on front hub to help with the steering in certain situations. What did you mean grind out the flashing. And the shimming to bring into spec. My rear locker fit right in and works beautifully.
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Oilleaker1
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Posted: 10 Nov. 2017 at 12:52pm |
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LOL, Stan Fuller and I both got the lockright kit from Summit and both had flashing and rough machining in the holes where the pins fit. Stan sent his back and the next set had the same. We used a chainsaw sharpening stone to clean the holes, otherwise the pins would not fit into the holes.
The operating range that the gap between the the two halves needs to be within was off on both of our front lockrights. Too large. Had to shim the side gears out more. If you unlock one hub, the Jeep will pull towards the side that is locked. My rear lockright fit perfect right out of the box also.
Edited by Oilleaker1 - 10 Nov. 2017 at 12:54pm |
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Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!
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smfulle
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Posted: 10 Nov. 2017 at 3:27pm |
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"grind out the flashing" What John means by this is the holes that are machined to receive the sheer pins. On two different front units that I tried, a couple of these holes were not machined correctly and the sheer pins that lock the two sides of the unit together would not fit into the holes properly. I fixed them with a "chain saw sharpening" grinding stone in my Dremel tool.
I met a guy at Easter Jeep Safari that works for Motive Gear, the distributor for the Lock Right. I told him about the problems I had with the sheer pins not fitting into the holes that were machined for them. He asked me for more information. Later he told me that the did a quality check on all the units that were on the shelf at the time and sent them all back to get fixed and that the sticky sheer pin would not be an issue in the future. I can't vouch for all that, but he did send me a T-shirt.  Getting the gap between the two halves set to within the specs in the instructions is vital. If your "carrier" is worn you need to find some shims to put behind the "drive" to bring the two halves closer together to get the gap to within tolerances. If this gap is too large you will get random locking and ratcheting that will cause serious steering and safety issues. I struggled with this and almost gave up on the front locker. I finally found the shims I needed at a Six States shop. The mechanic had some hanging on a peg board and just gave me a stack of various thicknesses. I broke one of my locking hubs and went back to the original drive flanges. Steering in 4wd, especially coming downhill while using the engine as a brake, can be a bit of a workout, but not anything I can't deal with, As John said, the way I deal with this in most situations is to shift into 2wd, low range. This can only be done if you have removed the little pill in the transfer case that blocks you from shifting into 2wd Low. There are some really steep descents when you don't want to use this 2wd low options because only 2 wheels holding you back on some steep slopes is not enough and the rig will slide. In those cases I just have to use my huge Popeye muscled arms
to keep steering control. |
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rocnroll
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Posted: 10 Nov. 2017 at 3:51pm |
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Stan, not trying to refute what you are saying just a comment on driving styles.
Everybody drives differently for sure and have differing ideas on what works for their particular style. Downhills are especially treacherous because Mr. Gravity sometimes has a different opinion. Learned a long time ago in my dirtbiking days you don't need both ends sliding. As long as the front end is free it may be a wild ride to the bottom but you can steering regardless of how much the back end is bouncing around and sliding. Just a thought to add to what you already said....( I couldn't decide whether I was contradicting you or agreeing with you).  |
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'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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smfulle
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Posted: 10 Nov. 2017 at 4:03pm |
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Chad,
When driving my slightly hot rodded 59 Chevy pickup, I kind of like it when I feel the rear end trying to get ahead of the front end, and all I have to do to fix that is lighten up on the skinny pedal. This last weekend on some of the long slick rock descents on the Hell's Revenge Trail in Moab while in 2wd the rear end started to try and get ahead of the front end and I DID NOT like that. I do think you're right that I was still in control with the front steering, but it still gave me a bad feeling. In those situations I would much rather muscle the wheel a bit and not slide. Sliding down a petrified dune, even if I can sort of keep the front end pointed in the right direction, is really more of a thrill than I'm up to. I still mostly come downhill in 2wd, but if I feel the rear wheels slide, that 4wd lever comes back pretty quick and easy.
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smfulle
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Posted: 10 Nov. 2017 at 4:04pm |
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And I'm not sure if I'm contradicting or agreeing with you either.
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oldtime
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Posted: 10 Nov. 2017 at 4:11pm |
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Time for a third opinion !
Any takers ? Careful cause It's a slippery slope ! Ha Ha Ha !
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Nobodyjeff5888
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Posted: 10 Nov. 2017 at 4:40pm |
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the unlocking one front hub was more of a up hill climbing /steering thing. I'm not sure exactly when that would be advantageous or not.
The too wide of a gap/need for shimming would a macho e shop be able to make them? Or would that be too$ expensive? The 3a shifter arm, is that compatible with my 2a d18? Or is that a single stick deal?
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
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Posted: 10 Nov. 2017 at 4:58pm |
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The problem with locking and unlocking a front hub is two-fold. First, obviously you have to get out of the cab to do this. Second, locking and unlocking a hub can cause issues if the gearset in the hub "butts" teeth, or in other words doesn't engage and the power is applied. This causes the teeth to skip over each other and damage the gearset. This would be more prevalent in cold weather because of the temperature of the lubricant in the hub can cause the hub gearset to engage slowly or not at all.
The solution is as Stan says, leave the hubs in and control the 2wd-4wd function with the cab control. If you are going to need 2wd in low then remove the interlock pill in the transfer case. |
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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Nobodyjeff5888
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Posted: 10 Nov. 2017 at 5:06pm |
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Thanks to all of you for the responses. Very helpful info. I'm learning as I go. Both mechanically and off road tactics. Been watching some of those off road fails videos. Would hate to roll or flip my girl. Way too much time and $/effort to make a stupid mistake. Scratches and dents I could live with. A roll over total would be devastating. Thanks again for all your help.
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smfulle
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Posted: 10 Nov. 2017 at 5:08pm |
In my opinion
 unlocking a hub when climbing would be a mistake. You would get a huge steering pull and all the torque going to one side is likely to break an axle on a hard pull or a sudden tire hook up. Other opinions may vary....You should be able to find some shims that would fit without spending a bunch of money. Measure the diameter of the hole and the outside circumference on the thrust washer that comes with the side gears, then look on Amazon for a pack of arbor shims with those dimensions. The shifter is the same, just the handle is a little longer. It's not a required change, just handier. |
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Nobodyjeff5888
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Posted: 10 Nov. 2017 at 5:10pm |
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removing the pill for low range 2 wheel drive. Is that an easy to do , or a remove t.c from vehicle. Haven't messed with that end of t.c yet. Any tricks or hints would be greatly appreciated
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Oilleaker1
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Posted: 10 Nov. 2017 at 5:18pm |
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To answer your question on the shifter, yes totally compatable. Stan, next time out while going downhill with both ends locked, put pressure on your steering wheel and then push in the clutch momentarily. It works!
 Trail tested!
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Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!
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Nobodyjeff5888 wrote: